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alexitbe

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Everything posted by alexitbe

  1. I would like to take part, but as a complete beginner think your idea for 2 patterns a month would suit both beginners and experts alike. I think going from easy to hard risks boring the experts at the beginner and losing the beginners towards the end. I am going to give it ago regardles, but your sugesstion above woul be great, if implemented. Happy New Year Everyone. Alex Ps All the best with the forthcoming birth of your child.
  2. Thank everyone and sorry for neglecting this thread... I have, however, not been neglecting the Singer. I have been working hard on it to try and finish it for Friday... I, basically, used the other shuttle I have and filled up the spool and tightened the tension spring as much as possible. It seemed to do the trick. I shall post picks of what it did shortly. Strangely, the length of the stitches increased with the thicker material. The reality of the whole saga was, I fiddled and adjusted things. Cleaned and sprayed with oil and it still didn't work. I came the following mornig and it was stiching fine. Must have good pixies in the cellar.. However, I don't reallyu know what did the trick. So after getting ti to stitch ok, I decided to take it apart.... Bugger! I am stuck at removing the pivot pins of the take up lever and one or two others. I have not been aboe to shift them for almost two days so have order a bike chain tool, which should do the job. So I can relax until it arrives on Monday. All other bits and pieces are clean. I shall order one or two things from college sewing in the UK. Pictures shortly
  3. Well lots of people have asked for patterns, which begs the question, has anyone made it? It wiould be good to see your work. cheers Alex
  4. A quick upate: Well I have it roughly cleaned an lubricated. I have tightened a few things here and there. I am currently testing it on cloth, but am using the leather needles that came with it. Will this be a problem? Initially, the lower thread was being pulled through the material very convincingly. After testing the thension of the thread and the bobbin, with the foot down( That took a while ), I realised the bobbin tenstion was too low. I sorted the bobbin tension out an it is quite strong now and is as strong than the top. However, It does not sew as expected. For the first 4-6 stitches the tension is fine, but then slowly the lower thread begins to be pulled through. This has happened on every single attempt. The stitch length is set to its longest setting and is about 3.5-4 mm I wanted to have everything near the middle of its settings, as it is very old an has probably been messed around with peopl who don't know anything. ie by people like me So, I have adjusted the take-up lever. There is one whole thread showing before the locking nut. It seems to be where other people on youtube have it. I have currently set it to 0 or 1 for light work. The thread remains taut until the needle enters the fabric and then it is slack again. I notice that the tension between the take-up lever an the tension regulator can become very stiff after a few stitches. I guess this is why it pulls the bottom thread through? I do not know why this would happen. I don't really want to disassemble it just yet, until it is working satisfactorily. Do you think I should do it in anycase? Thaks for any advice. Alex
  5. Just a quick update: I bought it. I have just brought it home tonight via the train. Hae given it a quick spray with Wd40, before doing a real clean in the next few days. I also have something much better, which I have just recieved from our good friend Constab. I don't know why Wizcraft suggested that particular model but I think he is correct. It is the large bobbin and from my Singer 29k71,72,73 service manual the bobbin and shuttle is the same as the 72 and not the other two. The bobbin is threaded differently to the other two also.. Very good guess. Another thing, thanks to Constab, I checked the stitch length and was a little surprised. In contrast to his it decreases as you go up and it starts at 4.5 and finishes at 2. The stitches follow this too, mybe not in absolute size but in icnreasing and decreasing. So I think this machine is a quite light weight patcher, mainly from the maximum short stitch length. I will place pictures up over the next few days. I will slowly clean it properly, but in a peace-meal fashion. It came with really old looking needles by lammertz. The 88L system size 3 and 6. I don't know what any of that means yet. I will post a picture of the paper packet they came in as it is terribly old fashioned. Almost Edwardian... Cheers Alex
  6. Hi Zulu, Maybe you can post a picture of what you mean? You might get more responses that way. I have just bought Stohlmanns hand sewing book and I noticed that the handle on his awl was not circular in cross-section, but oblong. I copied this, because I was being cheap ad just to see what it was like. It seems to fit nicely in the hand, but I have not sewn with it yet. It literally took an afternoon to make a few. They are currently drying from being varnished. I will post later. Alex
  7. Sorry this will be a quick one as have just checked in before I go to bed. Wizcraft: Thanks for the really detailed information about that model. I guess I can only hope that this 29D60 is something similar. Constabulary: Thanks for the picture, I am now able to follow what you said. Glenn: I will go and view the machine on Friay, so I won't bother with asking for more pics. If I see it sewing, then I will take it. If not, then I shall leave it. Cheers alex
  8. Thanks for the replies... I don't know if there are any books with it, but if so it will be in Old Deutsche and the new one is hard enough. I am not really interested in buying it just, because it is rare. It is more important that it works and it works reasonably well. I do not understand the comment about checking the stitch length at 5 spi. Surely it will be 1/5" ? Or am I missing something? Also, I am not sure that there will be a stitch length controller with 5 SPI on it, so how will I know? May I ask about the 29k172? What are the important or standout features? Is it a development of the 29k60? I will go and see it. Apart from trying to sew a piece of leather with it, is there anything else I should check? Thanks Alex
  9. Thanks Guys, Its a hundred Euro. ..I am not sure whether to go for it yet. Thankfully its close buy, unlike the last one. Cheers Alex
  10. Does anyone know anything about this patcher? I have just found one in working order, very cheap and wondere'd why the "D"? I am in Germany (Deutschland), if that is relevent. Here's a picture...
  11. Very nice.. Whats sort of angle should be put on the blade? Is it particular o the type of cutting tool or pretty standard. I need a leather knife and was thinkig of also being bored at work Cheers Alex
  12. Thanks for posting your efforts... They look very nice. The wavy design is particularly eye catching Did you sew by hand or machine? Did you make up the design yourself? I am yet to dip my toe in... hard to know what to start with... So its nice to see what other people have tried and their experiences Thanks for posting. Alex
  13. Whilst sulking about buying a sewing machine that did not work, I decided to give hand sewing a go. So last week I ordered the diamond awls, harness needles and thread... and a book. Quite soon I realise I neede a clamp for the leather. So yesterday and today I followed the instructions in the link below and made one. Saved myself about 80 euros and had some fun at work. It is currently on its second varnish, with the last one due tommorrow. http://youtu.be/Dxp4YjY85dM?list=UUUydSC4GgiVQbcpjQTR_zQw The wood I use was simply wood(pine, I guess) I had bought to mount a curtain rail to, but never got around to it. It was too thick at 1". I had to reduce this on the saw after everything was made and noting that it didn't flex. Not really a problem, just took a little extra time. I would suggest the arms should be no more than 3/4 of an inch. I have mine at 1/2" and I find that just about right. Only time an use will tell. Apart from that nothing else to tell. A bit of gluing was involved to make a block for the base.. It's quite obvious from the video. If you don't have one and need one, gon't buy one... make your own. It really only took a day, with the gluing and one big mistake... Cheers Alex
  14. Thank you everyone for your help! After some thought, I think I have a good solution. I can get all the correct parts except the long connection rack/rod. ...So what do you think about this idea? Most important is to have the correct teeth on the long connection rack so shuttle moves the correct amount at the correct time. I will look for a long connection rod (from the 29k range), which has the correct teeth to fit the driving and follow pinion of the 29k33. This will take time to research. Then I will mill a recess about 4-6" long along the connection rod, near (to minimize the effect of any build errors) the teeth. I will fit a rod of metal in this recess, slide the end of the original connection rod to the correct length (I will need some pics of a machine for this). Then drill two holes and fix the 3 pieces solidly together. That way, I have a genuine Singer part in my machine, but one that fits. Its just an idea at the moment. Alex
  15. Constabulary, That's a good read and nice end result. It provides hope . I think you are right about the k7X series being the one to get... As an aside, why bother with a patcher if you have an ordinary sewing machine that will sew leather? Unless you are really using it for boots,or confined spaces. What am I missing?
  16. Hello Shoe Patcher, I would appreciate that line sketch of the long rack with measurements, if you cannot scan it 1:1. The k33 is funny, in many cases it follows the k30, but in others not. The short rack, long rack, shuttle, shuttle carrier, shuttle carrier gear, driving pinion and following pinion of the k33 are not the same as the k30. However the short rack(8599) is the same for k33,k1 and k4 long connection rack(81963) is different(longer) to both the k4 and k1 and seems to only be shared by k32 driving and following pinions (33513 & 8508) of the k33 are the same for k1 and k4 shuttle hook/body (8654), shuttle carrier(8605) bobbin(8604),of the k33 is same as k1 and k4 shuttle driving cam(81871) and gear(81872) of k33 is same as k4, but not k1 I wonder if it is not possible to buy a short rack an attach it to a replacement home made long connection rack.... Cheers Alex
  17. Hi Wizcraft, I emailed Bob Kovar, thanks to one of your previous posts, and he said he didn't have those parts for the 29k33. Its quite expensive to gamble and hope an alternative fits. I think I will wait and hope on ebay... Cheers Alex
  18. Hi Jimi, Thanks for your response and offer of help. I might take you up on it shortly. I guess 1:1 photocopies of the parts(except the long connection rack) would be easiest. Then send the scans to my email. However, hold fire for a bit. I willl scour ebay for a bit. I am missing the following: The longrack connection rod The short rack The following pinion I think that's it... Cheers Alex
  19. Yes, I was stupid and impatient... To be honest, I didn't think I would win it...I put a really low bid in. Thank you all for your information! It seems like it might be an ok machine to have, IF it works... I am going to ban myself from ebay for a while... Until I have some idea on what I am doing... Cheers Alex
  20. Last night, I was down in the dumps about my Singer 29K not being economical to refurb.... So I bid on something on ebay. It said it was something to do with saddle making so I thought I would roll the dice... Any ideas on what it may be?
  21. On second thoughts, this is a hobby to stop me from sitting infront of the TV and wasting my time... I do not need to produce anything quickly or cheaply. So I will give hand- stictching a go... I believe we have a group for that? A hole punch, a needl and some thread...What could be simpler? However, I will be back with a fixed machine or a different one in the not too distant future... Thank you all very kindly for giving your knowledge so freely. ALex
  22. You are correct. There is a supposedly fully working 29k51 near here... How are these for parts and replacements? What was the most popular 29k. It would make most sense to buy a complete one fo these. I can make a few things for the machine that I have. However, I do not know any of the correct measurements of the bits or indeed how they are fully assembled.. I have learnt an important lesson... "Buyer Beware" and "go fully informed". Cheers Alex
  23. Yes, I think you are right, but waiting for old parts may take a long time and I had rather hoped to be ready for Christmas. Its seems that I was unfortunate to buy a k33 as it has smaller/different parts to the std k30. In partitulcar things like rack and gears. I cannot make these... I have the opportunity on a 29k51. However, that is very expensive. What is quite irritating is that I am told that the guy didn't now why it didn't work. However, it is quite clear that the rack conection rod had only recently been removed. The grease looked fresh... I guess that there is nothing that can be done quickly. I think there are modern 29k's being built today. Would it be worth buying the parts from these Chinese copies? How about Adler 30-1k parts? There are lots of Adlers here in Germany... Alex
  24. Thank you everyone for your help, but it seems as thought it was invane. I knew I hade to buy a shuttle hook, however, I didn't look under the machine.... Its a bit of a disaster, as there is nothing there. It looks like I have to buy a whole shuttle drive mechanism.... I am not sure if I could machine any of the missing parts, because the drawings have no mechanism... hmmmm.... I am at a loss what to do.... The arm to the shuttle...empty Can see the end of the shuttle drive lever here (I think)
  25. Thanks again... I have downloaded and printed all of those links so I have lots to study now. I have taken a picture or the issue, but its so dark and I am using someone elses camera... I hope you can see the "hole" or more like a channel for the needle to go down into the bobbin housing. It is this channel which shows sign of the needle catching and sometimes I can see it happening. I think the sideways shift you mention will be enough. I need less than a mm shift away from the channel. I am sure I can find that. In conclusion, I only need the lower screw for the head and the shuttle hook and I will be able to do something. The reast of the stuff I will keep an eye out in the future for. The next thing would be to sort out some bobbin winder, but I hope I can pick one up from some old Singer. I hope they will be compatable. Thanks very much for you help. Alex
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