alexitbe

Got to agree, the pockets are really thoughtfully done... And hand skiving the whole piece of leather. That's real dedication and I never thought it could be done. This has solved for me something on my first project, which i had been struggling on how to achieve ie to pare down a folding gusset, which is almost a A4 in size. Great work! Alex

Thanks Ray, I don't min paying a few dollars for an article, but 80 dollars... I think not... I will keep looking and get back to you if I come up with anything. Cheers Alex

"Hand Making Leather Gloves" By Jan Faulkner-Wagoner Maybe I should put this in the sewing section, I don't know? Its from an old magazine in the 80's and it is supposed to be good for the beginner... Maybe you can suggest somethin better or alternatives? Thanks Alex

Ha ha...That's just what I want to hear... I am beginneg to get impatient now... but things are coming together.. .I am waiting for my skiving knife and round knife from the UK to arrive... I have the glue... Just need the thread... I will go and get the leather needles today... or atleast order them. When I find my bloody camera I will send you pics of the mounting system I have made for the machine...I am very proud of it.. It will do for now... Cheers Alex

Thanks Cobra Steve, I will order some thread today. I guess your advice is for machines, but can I use the same thread for hand sewing. I am completely new to sewing and leather. I thought that the needle system that I must use is fixed by the machine itself (Durkopp 241). You are saying that I can change the system I use withi reason? Cheers ALex

I promised myself I would not ask this and find it out with a search, but I just end up confused. I will mostly be sewing 2- pieces of 5-6 oz leather. The maximum will be 2 pieces of 10 oz veg tan. I would like to use linen. What thread size should I use for: Hand sewing? Machine sewing? Can I cover all the above options with a single thread size? Is there any difference in requirments for hand sewing and machine sewing? Can I use linen for both? The machine is a durkopp, a walking foot and is very robust. It uses the following system 135 x 17. I have the following size 140/22 and another smaller size, but cannot find theat just now. I am really sorry to ask, but am desperatez to start sewing... It has taken me a long time to get all the equipment ready and this is the last thing holding me up... I just want to start... Cheers Alex

Ok, I took everyone advice and used no grease... It is now working and 'I made my first repair last night, on my son's shoes which were about to be thrown out. In retrospect, I could simply have replaced the spring in the shuttle which had a groove in from the thread. This made a huge difference and I can really get tension on the thread... Without any real refinement I have 3mm stitches with balanced upp and lower tension. I replaced the spring on the needle bar, which also had a groove in it. I imagine this also helped. I got to learn how to maximise the lift of the foot. So now its a little below maximum, on the high setting. I have not checked the low setting yet. I have only cleaned the head. I will attempt the rest at another date.I I only managed to remove one hinge, that I mentioned above and I still cannot remove the screws to look at the gearing. I hope eventual, after much oil, they will move. C heersAle x

Keep up the good work Constabulary! Your threads on restoration have really helped me sort out my Singer 29D60, which made its first repair last night on my Son's wrecked shoes... Saved me some money... I think it might pay for itself very soon....Especially with my Son...The Wrecker

Maybe, I shoul mention that I am new to leatherwork and have infact not made anything yet. I have, however, made a load of stuff which will allow me to do some leather work.... Getting the knife is the last act and then I am ready. I actually fear using the round knife or more accurately sharpening it without ruining it. I would prefer to get a simple English style skiving knife (Have seen a new Adams one at a very good price) and a stanley knife, but have read Stohlman's books an he says that head knives are the way to go. Since I know nothing personally I thought I would follow what he says. However, there is a huge difference in prce bewteen the cheapest 4" and cheapes 5", although both are British made.

here they are... There is a video for it... I will look for it later..

Hi Tannin, Thanks for your response... I have contacted them and they only do a 5" knife. I wonder why Stohlmann was so against 5" knives... Like you said though, the price is so good, in comparison to the only 4" available knives that I think i will end up buying... Cheers Alex

Mr stohlman said they were no good and that 4" is ideal. Is this still the general consensus of opinion or can I get a 5" knife and not worry too much? I have found a 5" one for a very good price. Thanks Alex

There are some home made splitter, if you look on youtube. There is a Russian one who even gives you the drawings. It seeems to work. That will be my next project after I get my machines to work. I don't have 400 dollars to spare on buying one and they seem fairly simple devices. Alex

Sorry for bring up a old thread, but I am going to try making some sheepskin gloves for my Father, since I stole and lost his many moons ago. He will smile when I tell him a have found the missing glove and give him the new pair that I made. I have a Durkopp 241, which I think has triple feed? I believe it shares many parts with the Singer 111w. I can find domestic blanket feet but nothing for industrial or for singer 111w. Will feet for welting be ok? i the people above follow the advice and how was the experience? Does it look professional? I daren't hand over anything that looks amateur to my Dad. Cheers Alex

Hi Tannin, How is the Barnsley knife? Are you still happy with it? Is it possible to get a four inch one? Cheers ALex

I have a problem with builing a table for my Durkopp 241. The cut out for the belt should actually remove the corner support (shown in the manual). Infact it seems that it is only supported at the two front corners by two corner brackets. The rest of the weight must be taken by the two hinges at the back. That is my guess. Anyway, I don't like having such limitted support ad would rather spread the weight out. What do you think about me making a 1/4" lip aroun the edges and gluing a rubber gasket on to reduce vibration and to hide any issue with not cutting flat. Maybe I should upload a drawing

It so easy to do, there is no point spending 100 dollars on a shop bought one... It is the first thing I have made for my new leather hobby.. Hopefully should start making lomething out of leather sooon.. ALex

If it skipping stitches you could be turning the material whilst the foot is down or not supporting the weight of material and this is doing the pulling. If it is the timing then this is quite simple. there is a small hole underneath the hand wheel. There is a screw, which connects to the long rack arm, which dirives the shuttle mechanism. This may need to be turned slightly. I suggest that you download a manual for any of the Singer 29K and they will show you how to adjust timing with pictures. the pictures are obviosly more helpful than me trying to describe it. cheers Alex

I don't want to spend too much money on my first attempt and have seen loads of the sheepskins for baby puschairs for sale at a cheap price. Will this so called "medical sheepskin" be rugged enough to make some mittens or gloves out of? Has anyone used the stuff at all and if so how have you found it? Thanks for any info. Alex

Well, I orderd it this morning, along with some bits for the Singer and it should arrive for the weekend... Happy Days are almost here....tra la la.. Alex

Thanks for that information Glenn. I will confirm it with a photo, if I can get the bloody screws off. However, I have been trying to do that since I got it before Christmas and its completely outsmarted me... so far. Does anyone use grease on these things? All I see mentioed is oil, but to me, the parts like cogs, foot lift bar, revolving bush and hinge pins should have a dab of grease.... cheers Alex

Hi Constabulary, How are you finding the motor? Are you using the standard 75mm or is the 40 mm? How many seconds does it take to go through one stitching cycle on the lowest speed? I wish to go as slow as poss. I spoke to college sewing and he suggested I buy from somewhere in Germany. Even gave me the name of the people who supply Durkopp. However, he said they would be expensive. I think I will ignore hima nd order from him. Cheers Alex

Hi Constablulary, Thanks for the reply. I went and checked on my other machine and one pins just eased out with light pressure and the other did not shift at all... I guess its just clogged with 100 years of gunk. My bike tool arrieved and it needs some moification in order to work. I could not wait until Monday, so I tried heating with a soldering iron in the hope that some expansion will loosen things abit when it cools... It worke on the pin for the take up lever, but not for the needle bar pin... So I must remain patient.. For those that are interested there is a resotration blog on the 29k with lots of pics here : http://northants-restoration.blogspot.de/2011/09/setting-timing-on-assembly.html Scroll down to the bottom to see all the ifferent posts. Alex

Congratulations and what a way to start the year... Alex

Ok, just saw the project and will order the interior leather toay or tmrw. Some questions: Can I use a sewing machine or must it be handstitched? What size needle and linen thread should I buy for the particular thickness of the leather? I am quite excited. Cheers Alex