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Hi Uwe, Thank you fo taking the time to make your video. The clarity of presentation is exceptional, the time you spent editing and making the video really shows. As a beginning tinkerer, I appreciate these type of videos.. Have a good Christmas. Alex

Hi Ralf, Thank you for the comprehensive response...And also with taking the time to contact Josef. It seems like I joined Hobbysschneiderin24.net sometime ago, but I never used it, because my German is so Schlekt. I will write a thread in the Pfaff group and hope Josef can find a solution. I was working on the machine last night, oiling it ,etc and it is running so smoothly now... I am very happy with the machine it would be a shame to have to replace it. I also love using the treadle... Its wonderfully hypnotic..It makes one forget about one's troubles. I need to take some more picture, because the ones I took last night are very dark. so i hope to put a thread up there on Friday... Thank you very much. Alex

Thanks for checking, Dale.... I will keep an eye out on ebay.... Cheers Alex

Hope you don't mind me asking, but what is the make of your pricking iron? Are they still being made? I quite fancy having a go,... Cheers Alex

There are lot out there...With tutorials too... Off-hand I cannot remember the links, however, try a google search and look for trapper's fur hat. These are essentially the same as the aviator hat... Sorry to be so vague... Alex

As everyone above said... Cut the end at 90 degrees and adjust thread tension until they butt-up well.... Why 90 degrees? Well, both ends of the piece have an angle of 180 degrees at where they join to form a cylinder... ie think of tangent of a circle at this point. To fit perfectly they simply need to be cut at 90 degrees to each other.... Alex

Hi Constab, Ofcourse, I will keep my eye out for a pfaff 38 with adjuster.... Because I cannot help myself simply looking...However, somehow it ends up in my Cellar... I don't know how... I was hoping to buy a pfaff 130 and simply fit in the needle adjuster... Since my 38k is only the 4.5mm zig zag version like the 130... Is it possible to do button holes without a needle adjuster? I must research that too... Cheers Alex

Hi Constab, Thanks for asking...All is well here... I have been mostly learning to sew by hand and not using the machines or only the pelznähmaschine for gloves... I have not managed to master either yet... I reallly think a vintage mangle would work and I have seen them for much less than 100 euros. If you can, send me a picture or description of the type of mangle you are looking for. If i see one, i will contact you.. I was think of getting an antik mangle to change in to a skiver... But have not had time to really look in to it..Adjustment of the roller would have to be very exact, as the blade would be permanently mounted to the mangle... It would be interesting to see you make one of these presses... Cheers Alex

So post us a link to some of your tanneries so we can enjoy them too... Cheers Alex

Good Morning Gents, Thank you for the responses... Yes, I live in Pfaff country... In the old DDR... In all honesty, I do not know if it has the mechanics behind the dial or not, I just got it last week and finally found space to assemble it. All I do know is that the needle positioner was an added option, so I guess it can be installed as a module to one without... Maybe? Ralf: would it be possible to contact your friend Josef for me and ask if atleast the parts will fit? I don't like to contact him without an introduction, he might find that a bit cheeky. Or if he has the parts, I will buy from him. That would make my life much easier.. Lastly, the straight stitch seems to have a little zig-zag in it.... Is this normal or do I have to do a bit of tinkering? Cheers Alex

I just picked up a Pfaff 38-6 and it does not have a needle position adjuster on it. Reading the manual, it says that one could order it with or without this feature at the time. My machine looks similar to the smaller pfaff 130. Do you think its needle position adjuster would fit? Has anyone tried this or knows of where I can buy the spare parts? I don't mind buying from the US. I need this adjuster to make button holes... Thanks for your time. Alex

It looks basically like a mangle.....Guess this could easily be "made" at home.. However, I think making the pressing form would be a real pain and not worth the time unless its a simple pattern. I would like to be able to cut out glove patterns, with speed, but more importantly with accuracy... I think the pattern would be too difficult to make... Interesting idea though... Alex

Hi 25b, I guess I am not the only one to have tried pm'ing you today... Your PM box is full. I have pasted my messages below. "I am a beginner and havig a similar problem on stitching looking different from both sides, as in the Saddle Stich thread. You aluded to sending him a PM about a solution. If possible, could you forward me this solution also? Secondly, my main interest is in wanting to make boxes. Do you have any experience with that? I am usually glad when I pierce the apposing hole on the or near to the guideline... Thanks for your input on the stitching thread. Cheers Alex"

Beautiful work and thank you for thaking the time to upload all that information... I then enjoyed looking at your blog and thought the closig method on your Sister's bag was wonderfully diffferent... Thanks Alex

I had no luck finding any in Europe...Can you believe that? In the end I gave up and just went with Tiger thread... Its a polyester braid (I think thats the correct term) and come highly recommended... Sometimes we have to admit that some modern material is simply better than what Stohlman used...

Welcome back! Is it snowing yet? Alex

Hi Jimi and Wizcraft, Wizcraft: On second reading I now understand what you are saying...It makes sense assuming that the bit from the hole to the point is roughly the same as the old needle. I have been sewing a patch today and see that the "needle clamp or holder" touches the body of the machine when needle is furthest away and is a couple of mm away from the feed disk edge when the needle is nearest the user. I think this means I cannot adjust the needle bar. I think the only solution then is to go for a needle that is the same length or shorter. If shorter I can just move it a few mm forward from the back stop in the needle clamp. I would really like to know if the needle I have is actually the 215x5 needle or not. However I don't know how to find this out. If not I would not be so anal and would just go for a period 292 needle. Jimi: The needle clamp is much different on mine. I would like to post some pics to show you, and of the patch I have just done. However , I cannot find my USB camera attachment. Maybe tmrw. Is the screw you point to the adjust for the stroke of the needle bar? Cheers Alex

Hi Jimi Lucky you! 215x15 are used much more in the 46k series. I got mine from College sewing in the uk. I beleive they are still on sale. They wanted to get rid of this old stock so I would buy them now if I were you. If you have no luck I will ask around... I hope that helps. Alex

In response to Wizcraft... If I move the needle bar forward won't I have to adjust the timing of the looper?... This grips me with fear... Cheers Alex

Thank you very much, Everyone... I wait in hope... However, I cannot even find another sewing machine that uses that particular system. Its extraordinary that they would produce another needle for just one machine. It might be important to mention that the official parts list describes the machine as "for home manufacturing." However, to me, it does not seem like a domestic machine. It is infact the largest of my overseaming machines including the Strobel fine fur sewing machine (0.5-2.7 spi). It is further described as "for seaming hoisery with selvedge edge." Apart from the hand rotated wheel it looks exactly like 46k24 mentioned above and this is for medium weight fur. But the recommended needle for that is 3.5 mm too long. To give you some idea of what it can do and thus its robustness I have measured the spi. I can go from 14.5 spi (1.5 mm stitch length) This seems very robust for sewing underwear (Hoisery?) to 7.5 spi( 4mm stitch length). Thank you for your time and help. Enjoy what is left of the weekend. Alex

Messing with sewing machines has not been very successful for me so it will be the last thing that I do. I like the idea grinding the needle down. The problem is finding a long version of a needle with 1 mm diameter. Is there a website where I can search needle systems on diameter? Thanks Alex

Hi Tinker Taylor Thank you for taking the time to look at my problem and the links(last one I have not seen before). It looks remarkably like the 46k24 in your link. Maybe its a later replacement for it? The recommended 459r needles are 3.5 mm longer to the hole att 33.5mm and have a slighlty larger shank diamter of 1.40 mm. Will this not be too much? My sewing machine is a 46k45. It is a double thread machine. I just looked at the partslist very carefully and don't know how I missed it before as I ahve looked at it a 100 times. The official needle system is: 215x5 in sizes 18,19&21. I think the needle that came with the machine is correct because it has Simanco 18 written on it. I measured the needle diameter and its 0.8 mm. However, this does not match the singer conversion table which says size 18 should be 110 nm. Anyway I do have a packet of 215x15 needles and the shank diameter is correct at 1.0 mm, the distance to the hole is 27.9mm. Interestingly this is the same distance as the Bonis 292 for the older machines (canu 01:30ma), aka ns292. This is also the same length as for 46x5 singer system, which is for some 46k fur machines and I bought hoping it would fit. Does anyone know an alternative to 215x5 system? A table of Singer 46k overseamers and their recommended needle size. The numbers I give of those that I have measured. There will be some error in these. machine needle system length to hole shank diameter total length K15 46x3 K30 46x5 K37 215x9 or 88x1 K38 215x13 K39 46x5 27.9 mm 0.96 mm 34mm K45 215x5 30.0 mm 1.08 mm K46 215x15 27.9 mm 0.98 mm 32.4 K48 215x17 K50, K51 16x21 K52 215x21 K54 46x5 Cheers ALex

Hello All, I have tried everywhere and made a few expensive mistakes so now I must get help from people who know... I need a needle to fit my Singer 46k "fur" cup feed overseamer. Fortunately it came with a needle already installed. It is very precious as its my only one. The shank diameter is 1,08 mm Length to hole 30.0 mm Total length is about 36.6 mm I have looked at what other overseamers use and... None of the Bonis 292 needles fit this length. The nearest is the conu 01:30MA with a length to the hole of 27.9 mm Tried a needle of the same period as the sewing machine (100 yrs ago) I have bought a 12x1 needle and that does fit either. I have looked at light industrial sewing machines and have found the following: Canu 04:45 or 88x1 Diameter is 1.62 mm (is this going to be a problem to fit?) Length to hole is 29.6 mm (I think this is close enough) Should I try this one? Do you think this is close enough or can you suggest another? Thanks for making it to the end. Alex

This is the same for all sewing machines. You have to do a test run first to get the tension correct if you change the material you are sewing... I never knew that until I started and even now, I forget to do it a ruin what I was working on...

HI, i am back and finally have my fur sewing machine working. First project is sheepskin gloves for my Father. I have already done 4 mock-up with felt and am now ready to go. However, I need some advice on preparing the shearling and I cannot find any forums, let alone people to ask. Does anyone know of any forums specialising in fur? Thanks Alex