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Thanks Constab.... So if it is screw 25 it must means changing the stop position?

Wizcraft, is that screw P or Q on the figure shown above? Is it finely adjusting the position of the spring stop? Thanks Alex

It seem as our own dear Uwe has done a video...Whilst there is no mention of what constitutes too much torque/tension he does clarify the stop position... and that is as it enters the fabric Thanks Uwe! Alex

So as the needle enters the leather there should be no tension on the thread from the check spring or can it remain until the needle starts its upward cycle? Mine is doing the latter. I am having difficulties with a glove sewing machine... I wasn't until I removed the check-spring assembly to clean... My problem is that the check-spring or something is pulling the leather away from the sewing surface right at the top of the needle cycle as it sets the stitch.. And thus pulling the bottom thread through... I have reduced the check spring torsion to quite low.... Cheers Alex

Hi Bert, How about sharing that information on here?...So others can profit from it and presumably the tannery too. I have a tannery in Germany I can recommend, but the information is at home.. I will post it shortly Cheers Alex

Maybe, I should correct myself.. .Its 85 euros.... Its in Berlin if anyone wants it.. Alex

Thank you very much Constabulary... I guess I will be passing on that then... Its being sold for 90 Euro...Which would have been a bargain if it was a saddler machine.. I appreciate your help... Alex

Maybe someone can help me ID this machine. It is advertised as a saddler machine, but who knows. Front It looks to me that it might be a zig zag machine... Back Top Any ideas or guesses..? Thanks alex

Good Work! Constab.... Its funny, some people's idea of good packaging. I had one person tell me they were going to pack the sewing machine well only for it to turn up in a box a quarter full with sawdust...? And yes, it was broken as a consequence. its seems some people are not willing to listen. Still, it looks like you are progressing well. I have had good results putting on Hammerite with a small sponge roller. It was much better that using the 10 Euro special brush I bought for it. Keep up the good work. Alex

Thanks.. .a good find... Alex

Well it looks very self contained... I think you have nothing to worry about.... You have plenty of power for leather... i could not see a repetition rate... If there is and its adjustable, you can vary this to find the best for cutting the leather.. I could not determine if its CW or pulsed... But its late here and I am a little tired.. Its a good price too... When you think what other leather equipment costs its not a bad investment. Cheers Alex

If its a diode laser, then in terms of operation it is completely self contained. I think 40 watts will be plenty for leather, especially if its being operated in pulsed mode. Pulse mode is generally better for cutting, as the surroundings material does not get heated up so much.. .if at all and so the cut is cleaner. If you want more intensity, simply change the last mirror to focus the spot smaller... However, I do not believe that will be neccessary.. 40 watts is a lot, if one considers that a laser pen is 5 mWatts, at most. I don't know what the wavelength is, but if its near IR, then be careful as it will appear weak to the eye so your reflex blink action will not occur and the relaxed eye will focus the laser on the the back of the eye... However, i don't think you will be tinkering in that way Am interested to see your tests... Alex

Gosh, it looks like a real professional laser unit.. I am impressed from this first impresion. Alex

Thanks again for both of your replies... Constab: I am really envious of the binding attachment you had... This is something i will look out for. Unfortunately, I have already ordered a 335 binder attachment, before I posted this thread. I have a few feet already, but I think I might look for some that are specific to binding. Uwe: I have several Claes machines, the 214 sattler machine, the 200-3 patcher and now this. If there is anything you would like to know about them just ask and I will do my best to measure or post pics. Cheers Alex

Dear Uwe, Thank you for the information and clarifying both of my mistakes. I bought the machine, because I wanted to make wallets and bags and I was a little sad thinking I could only sew a thickness of about 3mm. I am very pleased that you have corrected my assumption. I can now use it for what I intended it for, although it does seem a little light (came with very short 100 nm needles). We shall see.. Stitch length is adjustable from 0 to 4.5 mm. I will measure and photograph the bobbin, but I am not sure I understand you question about the feed-dogs. I thought all feed-dogs do both vertical and horizontal movement. It would be best if I did a video, but I have never done that before and it might take a while for me to get right. Since you are German, below is an interesting website describing Claes machines, including this one. https://www.naehmaschinenverzeichnis.de/verzeichnis-der-naehmaschinen/claes/ If I could change the title I would, so i didn't spread mis-information...We have enough of that in this world without me adding to it Again, thanks for the information.... I am off to find more about the Singer... Alex

Really just posting this out of interest. Textima seems to have been the umbrella company of a lot of others during the DDR time and one of these is the Claes company, which produces even now th eking of patchers that can easily sew 12 mm thick leather. I love mine and am a bit of a fan. From the Claes website it says that the 230 is a walking foot machine, which can sew 7mm. This does not seem the case for mine as the outer walking presser foot only lifts about 3.5 mm and the innder 5.5 mm. I have tried and failed to have adjusted it any better than that. If I make the outer presser foot lift higher, then the inner presser foot lifts lower... They are directly coupled... However, I can lift both 7 mm using the presser foot lever. Front Hook Internal workings of the walking foot. Max height of outer presser foot. and adjuster for outer presser foot height . the little screw on the right. The stitch length feature is quite nice. You adjust it with big knurled knob in the middle of the drive wheel. I haven't got it stitching yet, as have only spent time cleaning it. i will post some when I finally get to it. Cheers Alex (sorry for the under lining... its my new computer)

Hi Jim, I have not checked the size of the feed-dog and I guess I should do this next , since you think it is not a standard part. I will then compare it to your measurements. I will order a knife part next week, as I am a little pressed for time at the moment and I would like an original part. Also, I will use it for making shoes so, I need the knife so as to be the stitches well into the sole. I am pleased that the feed-dogs are almost fixed and the shuttle tension issue has taken care of itself with thicker thread. Cheers Alex

So I finally did this and I will try and explain. As the feed dog height is rotated, the accentric also rotates. The accentric forces a horizontal bar left and right. This bar is angled so that the vertical feed-dog moves up and down as the horizontl bar moves left and right. The problem seems to be that the accentric was not in the right position, so that the minimim feed-dog height was on the middle setting and not at the lowest. The turning or saddle point of the accentric ie minimum, was at the middle setting and either side of that the feet rose higher. After adjustments I now have a feed dog height of 2.5 mm on lowest and 5 mm at highest setting. I would like to be able to drop the whole thing down 1mm, but I have not had time to work that out. Anyone have any idea B moves up and down adn what would happen if I moved the nuts? Sorry if I have not explained it very well. i simply do not know the proper terms for the parts. Cheers Alex

So following SandyT's advice I ordered some thicker thread. I ordered some polyamide thread (Amanda Ares) size 6 (564tex) and now the shuttle tension is working and is adjustable. However, the upper thread is not pulling up through the leather. The website recommends it for needle size 180-220, but I don't think is correct. From the website: thread Thread structure Breaking force no less than Recommended nedles Applications Beams Number of pcs in a pack Ares 20 470 dtex x 3 141 tex 8600 cN 140-160 For sewing shoes, structural seams 1000m 10 Ares 10 940 dtex x 3 282 tex 19000 cN 180-200 For ornamental seams 1000m 4 Ares 8 940 dtex x 4 376 tex 25000 cN 180-200 For ornamental seams 600m 4 Ares 6 940 dtex x 6 564 tex 34000 cN 180-200 For sewing heavy technical fabrics, leather and ornamental seams. 400m 4 So now I have ordered polyamide size 8 (940 dtex x 4 376 tex) and I hope this will be more suitable for my size 220 nm needle. We shall see.. Thanks for the help so far... We are getting there. For anyone interested in this thread, the website is here. I got the ares 6 for about 15 euros for 400 m. http://www.amandathreads.com/industrial-threads-ares.html

hmmm, i think I almost bought this... It was from someone in Zwickau, I think and was advertised for a while at 60 Euros... I am glad I didn't take a punt as I know I couldn't have restored it to this standard...Well done guys! Cheers Alex

This mirror is simply the guiding mirror or is it the exit mirror of the laser? I hope , for you that it is the former.

Yes, it was 100 Euro including postage. The guy responds very quickly and it should arrive by Saturday or Sunday. I am impressed with the speed of service and the price is not bad either... I will post pics if people wish, but the ebay URL has quite a few pics already... Cheers Alex

Well, he responded quickly and has offered it for 100 Euros posted. I am happy with that and will order from him. Cheers Alex Edit:UPDATE: I am just checking that does actually include postage...

Hi Constab, I have done as you suggested, let us see what happens... I will keep you updated. Cheers Alex

Well, I have asked them to quote me a better price... Let's see what happens.. I would prefer to buy in Germany to be honest. I try to support the local economy if the price difference is not too much.