MADMAX22

Very nice looking, I like the mottled effect with the dye. I dont know if thats what you were shooting for but it looks good.

Thats why I was happy they redid it. Now when you click on something you actually get the page right away and you dont lose pages, its very nice compared too how it was last year.

Well if its similer to olive oil which is used frequently in the leather craft then I dont see why it wouldnt work. I know there are a few here that use olive oil on a regular basis.

Well I didnt have the extra money for a slicker right now (the glass piece for slicking down your leather before you carve it) so when I was at lowes I saw some of the counter top edge tiles, the ones that look like a L shape but long about 6" long. Well these things work pretty darn good just gotta pick thru and find a good one. Picked it up for $.25

Outstanding, thanks esantoro.

Thanks Jbird and ATX that does help alot. I couldnt remember who posted that help from before.

Very cool thanks for posting this

Thank you so much for finally getting it so that you can search around and compile list for ordering without it taking hours of my time. The site is much better looking as well.

OK so I just cant seem to keepfrom getting little ridges between my tri weave stamping. I have a heck of a time keeping them lined up and after about two rows or so I start losing my tightness and uniformity. I know there was a semi guide in one of the threads but I cant seem to find it anywhere. Something about using a toothpick and lines and stuff. I know tandy stuff isnt the best and thats what I am using right now but I checked my tools and they are ok as far as spacing,

LOL before I read your post I though you beat up han solo and took his stuff. Great job and it does look like good work.

I know there are several that use lasers on leather. With good results I may add. The biggest burning thing is wood burning, they have mutlitudes of burning tools in all shapes and sizes. Look thru the wood working forums and such and Im sure youll find what you need or it would be a good start.

Dont forget to add for the thickness of the leather and the bend. If you allready made some and end up happy with the fit then measure all your stuff and keep notes of that for future work.

Agree with Justwakinup, joanns has a huge selection of fabrics. My first wallet I made about 8 months or so ago I used the upholstery fabric and its still doing pretty good considering its a daily use wallet for a big guy.

Looking great so far Tiny.

Ill ship overseas as well. And guys when they ask if its a gift say YES, more often then not this will decrease the price if not for you for your recipient.

I posted some info in your other thread but wanted to add there is one holster I did a while back that also shows some pics of some weird results of vinegaroon. I ended up having to dye the holster black which with the vinegeroon made a odd dark blue color. It was really rather cool but not what I expected at the time. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...ic=4756&hl=

In my experience You may need to increase the batch intensity or let it sit longer. I know that I used about 4 or 5 of the steel wool for a gallon of vineger and after about two to three weeks it worked great. The first week or so it didnt do to hot. Some leathers will react differently. Test first. My method for using it is do my assembly first and tooling or whatnot then dunk it in and make sure it stays down for a good couple of minutes, then I give it the baking soda rinse. This is it, then I let it dry or do my wet forming and such. After this it will be a greyish bluish black kind of like what you have. Now I oil it pretty good. Far more then I would just plain leather as you have stripped alot of the oils out. It will probably take more then your thinking it should. Experiment first though. In my experiences glue, rubber cement, wax ( like bee's wax that has been melted into the leather) will act like a resist for the vinegaroon and it wont change the color of the leather. Redipping usually didnt work for me because most of this stuff has gotten into the leather itself so it wont let the vinegaroon in to do its job.

Thanks Tom. Now that I look at the pictures I realized that the one stitch that I pushed the awl too far thru really shows up. You can really see it in the top right of this latest photo. Ahh well. Heres another picture, I went ahead and finished it with some leather balm w/ atom wax. About the only finish I seem to be able to get a good result with. Gave it a nice shine.

Well tried another rifle sling this time using the proper thickness leather (8/9oz), I dyed it with british tan and chocolate, neats foot, lexal, then aussie wax. I sealed the back with tan kote and will probably try and seal the front I just didnt want too as I didnt want to screw it up like I usually do when I seal stuff, ecspecially stuff that flexes. The back has the 1/4" neoprene covered in suade. The design was a dover design. Also I apologize for the pics, I really need a proper booth (gotta build one one of these days).

Outstanding, thats a good start. Cool idea with the clip. On the first one I would recommend placing the strap off to the side as it will reduce thickness but thats just a suggestion. By the way nice gun, thats roughly my carry gun except mines black

I use to use box cutter style blades and the regular craft exacto's but since I got a head (round) knife and it is by far the best way Ive tried so far. It may not be for the tight corners and such but for just about everything else it totally rocks (IMHO).

Cool thanks, will be nice to see what it can do.

Thanks Kate, I fully understand and am glad for the different opinions. My issue is that with tankote/ resolyne/ and super sheen is that when I use them they tend to crack even if ever so slightly when the leather flexes. Maybe I am using it in the wrong applications. I like using waxes and have found that aussie wax and snow seal are my two favorites and give very nice mellow finish. I just wanted more opinions I guess on whether they can be used as the sealer. Totally agree with you on the lexol for the alcohol based stuff, it dries out the leather something feirce.

Hey guys I was wondering when using feibings dye is it permissible to use some lexol to condition and then say a few passes of aussie wax to get a good seal. Is it really necessary to use tan kote or similer. I just havnt had much luck with most of the sealers getting the results I want but if I just use lexol and aussie wax I get a great looking finish that is what I want to get but not sure how the longevity. Thanks for your inputs.

LOL we just elected one responsible for part of it. The economic mess has been more a result of more then just the government end of it. Many of the ceo's that ran there companies like the good times would never come to an end. Any company that was grossing as much as many have been for that many years should have some kind of buffer for economic roller coasters. So the bubble burst like it does every decade for the last hundred years (some worse then others) a company shouldnt all of a sudden be struggling after a couple of months, atleast not one as big as many of them that are. Sont get me wrong the government isnt helping and the current bailouts and such are just making it worse (imo) but alot of this were poeple that ran things on a non government level being stupid. Well I guess not totally stupid, I mean I wouldnt mind a 500k salary with million dollar bonuses or more lol.