MADMAX22

So true.

Thanks guys, sounds good

Hey Dave, on the strap at the bottom portion you said it gets chicago screwed to the main body, Is that done too the other layer of leather, so the main body is essentially dual layered and you run the strap thru the slits then it gets screwed to the back side of the main body.

Hey guys I have scene sceral guitar strap adjustment types looking thru the web. I am a little confused how the adjusting portion works. Ive scene some that look like they are sewn in and are adjusted by going thru the slots punched in the strap more less times to change the length. Other ones dont seem to be sewn but look like they are just threaded thru the slits at which ever position gives the correct length. I have found a few guides to making them but none that talk about the construction portion. Thanks for any help.

Looks good Harvey, nice celan lines.

Hey was checking out sales at joanns today and saw all there gingher shears were 40% off, they have a big selection but dont know if they are the ones that you can use on leather or not. They had some pretty heavy duty ones so I imagine so. Worth checking it out, not sure how long the sale lasts

Hey guys now that Ive been getting some exotics on ebay and such I havnt really worried about any type of tags or permits or anything, but saw a few advertising talking about papers and such for the US. Now Im wondering if I should worry about this, do I need to worry about this for resale as well. Never scene a permit paper on anything Ive ever bought that had variouse hides used in it.

Forgot too add the pics. Sounds like a great gift though. If you do a full edit of the first post you can see the browse and add toward the bottom.

There are others that are very experienced Im just a beginner really so here it goes. First I would get some pics of the bike seat, grips, even the bags really quick so people have an idea of what they are going on and can give better direction on how to do some of the stuff. As far as using antique or anything water based I dont think I would if your gonna be in some rain and such. What color are you looking for? There are other methods of getting certain colors that are permanent. Ive very rarely scene grommets used with lacing, use small holes or slits and you should be good to go. I think for the bags I would use some kind of 3M like 77 or similer. These spray on glues usually do wonders if used correctly.

Thanks for the info. I noticed after I posted that your right they use chicago screws for both sides. I wasnt thinking properly. And you just punch holes to allow it to be adjusted correct.

I read about that. I was wondering is it just the dry flaky portion of the onion skin? I wouldnt want my project smelling like onion lol.

OK so I would like to make a rifle sling. I understand that the top portion that attaches to the rifle is usually a 1" strap that is folded over and riveted in place. No adjustment necessary. Now the bottom attachment point which is usually adjustable from what I have scene is also usually 1" wide but here is where I run into issues. I would think you dont want a buckle since that could chip or scratch your rifle so what type but then you could make a leather flap of sort to cover thebuckle also. So what other methods are there to make a adjustable portion. I know the tandy kit uses chicago screws. I have scene online others that use a sort of leather concho looking thing with slits in it but Im not sure how those are made and or how they work. Thanks for any info.

Very nice, Im sure hell like it, bummer about the shoddy leather worker people though.

Hey guys I was wondering if anyone thats into natural dyes tried coffee. I have played with a few pieces and sorry I dont have any pictures to post but have gotten a very very nice either really mild coffee color kind of like the baskins robbins icrcream (coffee flavored) to a much darker british tan/ saddle tan color once oiled. So far I have just boiled some coffee then strained it and let a couple of pieces sit over night to see what colors Id get. I dont have any projects that I can use it on right now though. Maybe in a week or so. Anyways I know holster makers are allways trying to find a streak free dye and usually in a natural color, if you are this is a cheap possibility for ya.

Hey thanks RDB, this will come in very useful

Ahh I guess Ill do it also, lol just kidding, sign me up, Ill give it a shot.

For me the best three books Ive gotten are Al stohlmans series on case making. THey are on sale right now I think but they give examples for just about every style of case making from small to large.

Im sure they will love them, they are made well, will last for many years and were made by you so what else could they ask for. G/J

Hey I was wondering I understand that you use just one dye color if you want, can we still oil and seal our work as long as its not another color like antique or something. So can I dye it, oil it, then apply some tan kote or similer to seal it up. Just wanna make sure I dont disqualify myself (I would rather get knocked out by all the other leather working pro's from around here).

WOW Bobocat is there anything you DONT do well. That is very very nice and to top it off on a seat that isnt the easiest to cover. Good job.

Not bad for a little guy like that. Figure carving is a whole other ball park (IMHO), kind of like it is in drawing/painting/ or what not. Very difficult to master. Good job, I like how your style carries over to whatever kind of work you try, work on it a little and it will be very good.

Thanks for the info, and once again great work, cant wait too see some more of your quivers.

That looks really good, ecspecially for your first one. Two things that my humble butt can recommend to you, Pick up atleast volume two but try and get all three volumes of al stohlmans case making series, think they are on sale at tandy right now. They go into much detail about the best straps, blet loops, ataching, and such to get the most strength out of your stuff. Really some beneficial reading. And on the gussets on the side leave them a little longer so that you can fold them in so you basically have flaps that fold over inside of the top cover, this will help keep things in and other things out for the sides. But over all great job and merry christmas

I live in the NW WA area and have to travel about an hour to get to the local tandy either on the seattle side or in tacohma. Both are decent shops with good selection. The managers at both seem to know what they are talking about and are very friendly. I havnt had any issues. I go only about once a month or so so I can pick out the leather I want. My only gripe is there seems to be alot of old leather that sits there for a long time, both with the working leather and with the leather lacing and such. However if you can get there toward the beginning of a shipment when they stock up for a sale you can find some pretty good leather. Plus nothing beats being able to look thru and find what you want instead of waiting for the serprise from the web lol. Ill keep shopping at tandy, maybe not for everything in the future but Ill keep going back.

Thanks for the info, pretty sure I understand it. Depending on what you used to glue it it should hold up just fine even for the rough stuff. I know that when I use the white leather weld stuff or contact cement if I do it right I need to allmost destroy the leather to get the two parts seperated.