Yetibelle

Well since that machine does not have reverse, I'm not sure how you got it to go backwards? I have seen them sew "in-place" standing still but not backwards. When you start your first few stiches - make sure you hold the needle thread and bobbin thread tight in one hand, other wise they might not grab and then it wont sew. How did you thread the machine? That also may be the issue.

That Singer base is highly sought-after. They clean up very nice and look great with the old machines.

The front part is fused to the rocker bar and has no play in it so I left it for now. The back part had a bent set-pin. I managed to get the bent one out of the back and re-pin it so now it is tight again. I also found one that was slightly longer so It does not get lost in there. Once they are set they are not easy to remove. I will eventually replace that setup once I find a new rocker-bar.

Well that Adler doesn't have a class plate one it. It is the same size as the 7-31 so I narrowed it down to a 20-200. But with Singer head parts. I will take another look at the rocker shaft but it looks like when they drilled the peg hole it's at a slight angle facing out when you line up the pin. If you have a picture of yours restored that may help. Then I can see the correct angle. Thanks for the link.

That looks to be in good shape. I wonder how it lost its label? http://www.camsew.com.au/BudgetMachines/walking_foot2.html

Here is my Adler 20 - I have not started on this machine yet. It looks like the head was rebuilt with Singer parts.

So looking at the parts for this back assembly (I think I forgot one screw set) but I am close, I am trying to figure out the correct angle they need to be at. So does it go back together with them up and down, or to they have a little angle to them . See my rough diagram below. So the red circle would be the center. Also when you put this all back on - what position should the cam be at when you set it? I notice when I tighten that cam ring 11486 that connects to the top arm 58578, it all stops working so I must be doing something wrong. So what are the steps to "zero this in"?

I am taking it apart. I do have the screw and bolt for that lower section. I just pulled it so I could see how much play was in the upper part. I'm not sure what's up with that roller scew, I have a replacement. I'm still looking for that internal shaft part. I have one that is broken and one that looks like it has been welded to one end. Now that I am aware of this linkage, I'm surprised it just pins at each end? Why didn't they just use a set screws?

I just looked at mine this morning before I left the house. Sure enough its flopping around, I thought it was suppose to do that why else would it be a link? - HAHA. - So I will see how to get that apart tonight and re-pin it. What else am I taking for granted? Once you have yours back up and working take another video so I can see how much play its suppose to move.

Now I'm going to have to look at mine to see if that is loose. I would have never noticed that.

That's great. Is that just a large "dummy" machine that they are using for demonstration? That is like a 31-15 on steroids!

That machine looks like it is in great shape. Really nice find. Do you have a picture of the pin you replaced?

I like the skateboard wheel

Here are the handy needle charts I "borrowed" from the Internet.

Thanks I will check on that tonight. The parts didn't look that worn when I had it apart to clean them so maybe I didn't get them back in the slot correctly.

WOW - great shots!

I re-built a Singer 29k51 back in December\January but just got it back on the treadle and was testing it. I can't get the stitch length adjustment right, its either short, or really-short and sews-in-place. I was hoping to get it out to the maximum stich-per-inch. I have moved that stitch regulator on the foot all over - up - down - middle - and its not making a difference. It makes some difference when I move the presser foot thumb screw in the back to the very forward position, at any other position it will just sew standing still (but the foot still moves). The 51 is setup slightly different than a 29-4 - thanks Singer! At least it sews, so I got that going for me. I may have to much pressure on the foot spring, is there a trick to that balance setting I missed? Here you can see my micro-stiches - I did swap to a smaller needle, but that is Max SPI I get. -or- maybe this is the best the 29k51 can do and I am overthinking it? Thanks I don't really get much play in that bottom red circle, it flops around not sure what it is suppose to be doing?

Is the machine hard to turn with the motor belt off by hand? Could be a set screw on the bottom - or the safety clutch could be popped? Anyway this is a good video about the clutch. Here is the guide for the 111 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8SsIFb6Bqz7bjBSb2Y2cjlMNGs/view

Just to clear this up for me. You have the 45K treadle now, just like in the picture but it is missing that support? Is that all your missing from it? You should make your own until you can find one. However I suspect it may take a while to locate. Treadle are great, setup you should be able to get through some veg tan with that. Depending on how hard you are on the machine you may not even need that bar.

File is a little big I guess. Its a nice color scan. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8SsIFb6Bqz7bjBSb2Y2cjlMNGs/view?usp=sharing see if that link works Edited: Downloaded file and attached it in case the google drive dries up. SINGER-111W152-111W153-111W154-111W155.pdf

If you have a motor take the belt off and just turn it by hand. You should be able to get it to sew a few inches by hand before going back to the motor. First try and get it to sew without thread and make sure the needle is not hitting the needle plate, feed dogs or hook. If it pass's this test you should be able to change the stitch length (smallest to longest) and get the same results. You may need a second set of hands to turn the wheel while you watch. Then I use a piece of white paper and try and get it to sew that again no thread, just check the stich length and feeding mechanism. Then if that is good and not grinding anything, thread it up and see if you can sew the paper a few inches by hand. I attached the guide so you can walk through the settings again. Its also a Singer so you need to firmly hold both threads with your left hand while you turn the wheel on the first few stiches or it won't set the first stiches correctly. I attached the guide. SINGER-111W152-111W153-111W154-111W155.pdf.lnk

That is a lot of money. I don't think they even sell for that new?

WOW - that is fancy - I have not seen one of these treadles in the wild. Do you have the treadle and are just looking for parts?

I found this from place on the internet...but it sums it up perfectly.

Cowboy - CB4500 fully-loaded. Raaaaaar - I'm saving up for mine. Honestly the best machine for the job could really be 3-5 separate machines. Once you have the workflow sorted out, you get the machine setup for one step of the project and then you discover you need X more machines setup to complete the project, or you will have to keep tweaking your single machine for each part. That is why we have so many machine, they are each good for one part of a project and once we get it working its painful to change it up. I still am getting a 4500 however.