TinkerTailor

I think tri flow is the best lube out there for use when bringing machines back to life. It will wick into anywhere and free up alot of stuck stuff. It is too thin however to stay inside things. It also may be thin enough that it cant be pumped by pumps with loose tolerances or wear. Plus its got nasty chemicals in it that you probably shouldn't get on your skin. I believe its designed with solvents to increase the wicking of the product, leaving thicker oil behind after the solvent evaporates. On the msds, it says it has parrafinic oils, i'm not a chemist but this sounds like parrafin oil. This stuff probably breaks down into wax again, or worse and could lead to gumming up over the long term. Just a thought. I wonder what 20 years of teflon buildup in a machine looks like?

You don't upload it to LW. You upload the full size file to a free account at dropbox. That file will now have a url address. You then copy that address and post just the address on LW. When someone goes to the address, the video plays. Dropbox has metric boatloads of hard drive space for all of your videos. LW does not. That is why file sizes are limited on the site. You could also create a youtube account, upload the video and post a link to it here instead of dropbox.

TaintedElephant: most condiment bottles, milk jugs and cosmetic containers are hdpe as well. Twinoaks: we are talking 300-350 degrees in a toaster oven. If there is smoke, you are doing it wrong. If your toaster oven is on fire, its a whole other problem.....To keep the housemates happy, get a 10 dollar toaster oven from the thrift store and do it outside. If you don't overheat it there shouldnt even be much smell.

If that is a bottom feed sump, if there is water in it it would be sucked up to the pump first as oil floats on water. I wonder if the previous seller topped it up with oil on top of the water and ran it with water lube for a while. Because there was at least water up there, at slow speeds the machine has been able to work for a while.

Ive used line 20 and 24 with canvas both with and without leather washers. I use little taps in a circle checking often that the post is flaring out properly, then once the post it basically even and flaring out on all sides, i hit it harder to finish the crimp. I have also mix and matched backs between the snap sizes and even used rivets instead of backs. Play around, its fun. You get to bash stuff and call it research. I have used several setters, some are better than the others, I wish i could tell you which one to get but i modify all my tools (make the handles bigger etc) and i cant see markings or remember where i got the random tools i have and like....

I get that the oil is not formulated with water, that would be bad. At least there was none in the sealed bottle that came from the factory. The bottle used to fill this machine previously would be a different story. When i read the msds, i thought conditions of flamability meant factors which could increase flamability, like foaming from water in the mix. Water in engine oil makes it frothy. I may be wrong but i think the frothing in diesel when you fill a tank makes it more flamable due to available oxygen. I assumed that section was telling me what conditions to avoid to prevent fire. Right after is the section on recommended fire fighting methods. Its a moot point really, I just chuckled to myself when i read that line, after your diagnosis of the machine. May have only been funny to me. It happens.

I used to do this, then i noticed i had imprinted the texture of the cotton fabric onto still slightly damp leather. I fixed it by re-casing the leather, and pressing it again using the smooth plastic from a pastry box lid from the bakery, instead of the fabric. I got some dedicated leather chunks for this now. I cut them out of an old leather jacket from the thrift store, cleaned and resolened them, to eliminate any potential dye transfer.

Interesting that you saw rust and evidence of foaming in the 476 and your lily white oils msds sheet says water in the oil could cause frothing.........just an observation...There shouldn't be water in there anyways....

tri-flow is much more affordable in gallon jugs. The bike shop can order them for you if you use it regularly. Don't get me wrong, its not wd40 on sale cheap. In canada its $9.50 for a 2 oz bottle and $190/gallon. That's $1.40/oz...still expensive but much better.

You can fuse the discs together with heat. Look for the videos on milk jug mallets. Stack the discs in piece of pipe and heat it up in the toaster oven. They will fuse with a little pressure. You can get short lengths of various diameter steel tubing for a mold in the scap bin at a local muffler shop. Bring beer.

If the neighbour was negligent in sprinkling the house, it is not the same as a flood. This would be the neighbours fault which is why insurance policies have liability insurance. The cost would likely eventually be born by the neighbours insurance, as the neighbour is liable for his actions, and he shot a hose through his neighbours window.....not maliciously of course... The liablility insurance is there to cover just these types of incidents. In British Columbia, Canada, in order to get a mortgage, you need insurance which includes a certain amount of liability. I would think the best way to start is go over to the neighbours with your dad and try to work out some compensation privately and neighbourlike. I have to say, however, that it would be nice to hear that you got a cheque from the insurance man. They make waaaayyyy to much money and someone should get some back..

I thought wrong oil might be part of it. Sturmey-archer bicycle hubs are oil bath and over half the probs I see are due to wrong oil gumming up the works. Ironically the problem is someone put in sewing machine oil....I use ATF because it has detergents and antifoam agents and oes not varnish up. I have often wondered if ATF would also work in sewing machines. It's close to the same viscosity and rpm ranges in an auto trans. It's also designed to not change properties with heat.

What you perceive as the income of ANY member of this site is irrelevant. To comment on it is judgemental. Take your judgements elsewhere. This is not your thread to vent........ A user has a loss due to water damage and posts it here, and you guys choose to derail it with an totally off topic disagreement over nationality, race and affluence.......Grow up kids.

True, however there will be the fuel to get the new one, as well as the 50 bux in impulse buys that get me every time i set foot in those doors... (btw, for us it is princess auto.)

Tent/awning and boat top supply, they have alot of useful stuff. http://www.outdoorfabricscanada.com/

As a leather worker on a budget i suggest looking at what Tandy has and then finding/making as many tools and supplies elsewhere as possible. Hardware stores have scratch awls for woodwork for cheap. Flea markets and used tool stores also sometimes have awls. If you are on the way by, stop in and check. I got a pound of organic beeswax for 11 dollars at a dollar/craft store. Tandy sells an ounce block for $6.30 CAD. That is $100 dollars a pound. Candle supply places are $10-20/lb. They also sell blue nitrile gloves, 6pack is $7.50. Drug store, 100 pack is $8.99. Tandy has the wax marked up 1000 percent profit and the gloves 1500 percent profit over standard retail for these products.....eat that with your toast.....

Once with a smaller diameter metal punch about the size of a leather punch, I hit it so hard that the punch went through the face of the cheap dead blow and into the cavity inside and stuck there. Had to cut up the hammer to get the punch back. You may find the face mars pretty easily as well. It is a great light duty and cheap option however and you can go through 2-3 for the price of a crappy tandy mallet.

If you happen to be on the west coast, Lonsdale leather in vancouver has had lots of quality hardware for years, but a very basic 20 year old web page... It has just been sold and has a new owner, so it may get better or worse, we will see. It is right near olympic village. Also in Vancouver is Dressew. It is a fabric sewing store with millions of buttons, zippers, and all that other stuff, just a little lacking in the heavier duty end..No rivets and heavy d rings. Again, no website to speak of.

I have an diamond awl point I put in my treadle machine to mark stitches. I can set a guide on my machine to do perfect Parrallel stitch lines. I can also punch the back and front separately and then put them together after and they line up. I find I get better backside stitching this way as the holes are the same both sides. My white rotary will do 7or 8 spi and up

I've hot glued them to the bench and then peeled it off after..

Do you think the gunk and oil issues caused the mistime? Also, could the wrong oil in the past clog the oil passages?

Lip or no lip, when the main part of the bit hits the leather it will grab and either twist up the leather or tear it. Leather does not chip like wood, bits dont work the same. You may get it to work going real slow on really stiff leather. any rigid metal pipe will do. Carbon steel will stay sharp longer You can make a hone basically out of a dowel sharpened like a pencil with 600 or so emery glued onto the cone.Go to the thrift store and look at lamps and light fixtures, the tubing you want might be there.Ikea desks had struts made out of 5mm or so tubing, you get the idea. I have also made punches out of brass plumbing fittings. Of course you could pay lee valley for good stuff that costs like excellent.

"A Gentleman, Scholar, and a fine judge of horse flesh" as my father likes to say....

When it comes back fixed, i would go back to the tech and demand my money back, as his diagnosis would have been proven worthless. Yes, you absolutely should pay for expertise. The root of that word is expert....The guy in edmonton may be an expert, but perhaps not on your machine. He should not charge for anything he does not know. If he is a professional, he should be able to give you a basic diagnosis and estimate for REPAIR before you pay him anything. I would phone Leightons.ca outside red-deer, they have been selling and refurbishing industrial machines specifically leather ones since 1983. They have been recommended to me before. They may have better advice on a good tech to go to. Not fixable?? Its an adler. Its not a cheap knock-off. Parts are out there, used and new ones. Not fixable means he does not know how. Broken in half is not even unfixable..... I actually have seen a metal lathe that was broken in half and then brazed back together, and worked just fine. It was not an economical repair, but it was repaired. NOTHING is unfixable with the right expertise. Here are some pics of a vise my grandfather brass brazed back together 60 some years ago. One jaw broke right off. The vise has been in use by him, my father and me ever since. He could have thrown it out, but why when it is fixable. Too many things get thrown out these days, and we have forgotten how to fix things. On second thought, I don't think Justin Beiber is fixable, but that's an argument for a different forum.....

I am pretty sure those bits will grab and chew up the leather no matter how you strop them. The leevalley Carbide-Tipped Dowel, Plug & Tenon Cutters would be a better shape and only go down to a 1/4 inside dimension. Incidently, they probably work best run in reverse on leather. Brad points can be had in offshore cheap variety at any hardwarestores/harbor freight. I would try the sharpened tubing trick above. You don't need a drill press, you can hammer it through. Use your old mallet, the end of the pipe will chew up the head.