TinkerTailor

I buy spice racks at the thrift store with the little clear glass bottles and have them hung on the wall of my studio. I have space for 40-50 bottles of brass and nickle spices. I like them cause i can just grab the bottle i need, throw a few pieces of hardware into the lid and put the bottle back on the shelf before i dump it. The shelves on the standard size spice racks also fit the smaller fiebings and ecoflo bottles as well. All those plastic tray/drawer/divider things always break, get dumped, or you cant see whats in the drawer (unless you spring for the really nice ones). Plus you need a shelf or table to put them on. My spice racks hang on the wall.

Get a small steel logo stamp made and stamp it in yourself after the rivet is set. Then you can use any rivet from anywhere. Whoever you get to make the rivets is going to charge a setup fee to make the stamp to stamp the rivets for you anyways, so you may as well do it yourself. Plus the logo on a pre-embossed rivet is likely to be marred when you set it.

I do alot of work which involves combinations of leather and fabric(waxed heavy canvas mostly). On the fabric i use alot of gutermann polyester topstitch thread, which is heavy and has some great contrasting colors and shine. I can use it to hand stitch fabric and also load it in my machine top and bottom. Love this thread fo fabric thick and thin....The problem is need to be able to match the color of the the thread i use on the leather...There are also times where I machine sew the leather and canvas interface and i saddle stitch the leather bag bottom corners. Has anyone had experience with twisting 3 or 4 strand hand stitching thread from this topstitch thread? I am willing and able to build a thread/rope twister like they use on rope walks, but would like to avoid it if my idea is not sound. I have alot of this thread and the gold thread is gorgeous on english bridle and black canvas...... Then you get to the "accent" saddle stitches on the straps and corners and its just white/brown/or/black ........ Also, on an aside, I have heard you can dye the waxed tiger thread because the wax is so lightly applied. Any input? It would be cool to buy a big old spool of white and dye thread on a per project basis. My partner has alot of schooling in dying fabric but has no idea about the thread. Can get white spools for a good price but 1000m is a lifetime supply of a color i wont use if the dye doesn't work.

If you have leather that is too thick, i have swapped the standard ln24 snap post for a long rivet post . All you have to do is file/cut/drill the end of the rivet post open and flare it a bit, and you can set it with the snap tool. This comes in handy as well when you need to set a line20 on thick leather. Like a small keeper strap on a thick holster. The other reason i do this is when i need a more finished backside, the double cap back is nicer and you can match it to the other rivets in the piece. (edit. the rivet is usually smaller diameter so is not quite as resistant to pulling through the leather as the snap back. Haven't had one come out yet. I like to jam the post into a really tight hole that i stretch a little with a round awl just before i insert).

This piece could easily be cut from rectangular tubing. Its just 4 hacksaw cuts and 4 holes. Here is a link to buy it by the foot in stainless: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-hollow-tubing/=w7z63g may have to get it plated after for brass or silver. Btw, this site is a goldmine for hardware and tool makers...... look around.