Randy Cornelius

The Boss is a good starter machine, it was one of the first machines that I bought. But like most who have a Boss you have to become a "TINKER" as the Boss is inconsistant. You will sew a long with it for seveal minutes, leave and come back and it will start missing stitches. It has to be constantly adjusted for some reason that I was never able to fully figure out. Something as sinple as changing a bobbin would make it mess up. I never really understood the machine. Parts break and are costly to buy and make repairs. I know there are some used ones out there that you can save money on but I am afraid you will not be satisfied with one, don't get me wrong I used one for 2-3 years with sucess but I also got very frustrated at times. I would suggest that if you have the money to upgrade right now to an Artisen or simular machine. At the time my Boss cost 1250.00 and I could have bought an Artisen for 1695.00 not that much difference from hand crank to electric. But the Boss is 100% American Made, unlike the china knockoffs but they are good machines. I would not trade my Artisen for anything, but these days I am looking at American Made anything to try to spend my money at home, (opps got off topic, sorry) Randy

I have made patterens from older carved stuff before. When the piece is small enough to put in a copier just make a copy of it then lay the tracing film over the copy and transfer the image. It looks like this fender will fit under most copiers. Good luck Randy

Welcome aboard!

The saddle tree is sitting on top of a Landis K. Son Riley bought it off ebay for 150.00 and we drove to St. Louis to pick it up. We actually set the K inside with a bobcat (weighs 900 lbs) and then built the walls up around it. So whatever happens in the future the K will stay. We have not had the time to get it up and running. We bought it thinking we were going to get into the bootmaking business. Not sure what else it's good for, I have my Artisen to everything else. I am looking at a flat bed machine at some point, not sure where to put it. Randy

When I seen the photos of Bruce Johnson's shop it reminded me that I have not posted any pictures of my new shop that I just completed this spring. I built the new building 2 years ago and have been working on finishing the inside a little at a time. The building is a pole barn 30x40 that I finshed off 1/2 of it making a 20x30 shop. Wood Laminate over concrete floors, 10' ceilings with white painted metal for the ceiling. The cutting table is 64" x 120". My tooling bench is an old wooden desk with a 3" slab of granite on top of the full length, 60" x 36". Lots of natural light which I really like. It sure beats working in the basement. Just thougth I would show off a bit. Randy

Been asked to make some repairs to fire fighter bunker gear but need flame retardent Nomax thread. I really have not started looking but thought some of you might know a good sourse. Need it in 207 or 277 size. Thanks in advance Randy

Way too neat and clean! LOL looks great. I just got my shop finished this year. I will have to post some pictures too. Randy

Try RV Net and they have a work camper forum. Also if you belong to Good Sam club they also have a forum with information on work campers and other full timer issues. RC

Weaver leather has some nice ones. I have both sets, round and oblong. rc

Wonderful as always! Can you do a close up of the little rope around the letters? I would like to see the detail. I would like to use that on a project if you don't mind? Randy

After you draw your pattern on Velum you can also stick it to clear shelf paper. Works great and you can use them over and over. Get clear shelf paper from Walmart. Randy

Pilgram Shoe and Sewing Machine Co. 800-343-2202

Check out Amazon that's were I found mine.

I done an experiment with Lexol products a couple years ago. I bought a new pair of Justin lace up work boots for wearing around the ranch. Deal with horse and cow poo, mud rain, hydrolic and motor oil so it was a good test. I usually cleaned them once every week or two as needed with lexol cleaner and conditioner, then let dry and treated them with lexol conditioner. That was 2 years ago and the boots are still going strong, soft, supple and no cracks or dry rot. I am not saying it would be the same for the next person but it worked for me. I know there are a lot of leather care products out there that are good, another product could have the same results. I really think that washing and scrubing them after they get soiled is the key. If you negelect them it will show. But for my money I use the lexol products on all my leather stuff. Randy

I make all mine, I use a rein rounder to make them look good. You can also buy decent looking ones from Ohio Travel Bag but I have never bought any so I don't know how good they are, just seen them in the cataloge

I have done several of these jobs as I belong to the Blue Knights motorcycle club. I always stick them down before I sew as I don't want them moving while I sew them. That way I don't get any pucker. It is better to use a table top so you can get them as flat as possible. I glue the patches down with a glue I get at Wally word call Fabric Tac" it is a clear glue that bonds in seconds. I always let it set for 15 minutes or so before I start. This seems to work for me. As far as where to start, I always sew on the center or biggest patch first. As long as you glue them down I don't see why you cannot start anywhere. Randy

I haven't checked the prices, I know Berry took a price increase the first of the year.

That's becaue Barry King makes them for weaver, he also makes the nicer mauls that weaver offers.

He was set up at Sheridan a couple years ago, I played around with his splitter and was impressed, cannot remember the cost 1600.00 comes to mind. Artisen came out with a motorized verison very simular and seemed to work well also. As I remember both were quite expensive, in the 2000.00 neighborhood.

I have one also, I have the one with 110 volt wired. I also have 2 different magnify lenses. I cannot do without it, the best money I have spent for a long time. It is really great for the detailed work. The light has no dot or shadow to it. One solid light Randy

I use Duall 88 all the time. I find it's better than Barge when working with wet leather. Sometimes I let it dry and then heat it with a hot air gun before I stick the pieces together.

I am bumping this back up as I am not sure why only one person commented on the idea. Randy

Very nice as usual, I like the smaller flowers with the Sheridan style but I have a lot of trouble when I try the smaller flowers, does not seem to come out right. So I tend to stay with the larger patterns. RC

Badger, Vector started this thread and he asked about a better way to cut leather, I am sorry you took offense to our comments about the round knife. If you feel this strongly against a round knife, don't use one, use whatever is comfortable to you. I understand some of us get set in our ways. But I simply was telling Vector another way to cut leather. Seems I stepped on a nerve, I am sorry. Randy

posted a tutorial on a new thread.