Randy Cornelius

Barry King and several other custom tool makers make the undershot bevelers. You can also use a lifter to do the same job, of course Tandy quit making them a couple years ago. The only other sourse that I am aware of is Jeff Mosby, Gray Ghost Grapics.

A lot of question there. Part one, the flesh side of the leather can be finished or slicked. Light sanding will make the fibers stand up, which is what is needed. Then wet the leather, apply some yellow paste saddle soap to the flesh side and rub briskly with a rough cloth like canvas. This will make the fibers lay down. Let it dry and apply any type of leather finish to protect it from comming back up. Stitching, I suggest that you buy the Stolhman book, " Hand Sewing Leather" he gives you a lot more infomation than I could type here. By using the overstitch wheel to mark your holes and an awl to make the holes you can get a nice stitch you cannot get by using the chisels. Randy

I have never had any negitive results using it. Think of it as a cleaner, not a bleach, I don't think you can bleach out a piece of leather with it. It will clean and bring out the natural color.

Not knowing how thick they are, guessing about the thickness of a credit card I would say to allow for 1/8 inch all the way around so it's not too tight and another 1/8 inch for a stitch line = 1/4 inch each side.

The epoxy may be the best as most cement don't adhear to metel very well. Be sure to scuff up the metal with 80 grit sandpaper or use a grinding wheel esp. if it has a crome or galvized coating.

For just general cleaning I use about a 1/2 tsp in quart of water. I will apply with a sponge to the intire piece of leather. After it is cleaned to my satisfaction I go back over it with clean water with a sponge. Let it stand for several minutes to see if it is cleaned to your satisfaction, if not repeat process. Don't leave your sponge setting in the solution very long. will break down sponge. For spot cleaning apply to the area and then go over the intire piece with clean water. Make sure it don't change the color or lighten the leather in the area that used the oxy acid to. Randy

Tandy sells a package of small desposable brushes that should work for what you are doing. I don't buy in small tubes as I buy it by the gallon and have a bottle with a brush. For large areas I have a water bottle with a pull up type top that I squeeze it out on a piece of sheeps wool for. But cement will get everywhere you don't want it to, it's just part of Murphys Laws you cannot change..LOL

I build wooden molds to form cell phone holders, mag pouches, plyers holders and snuff can holders. That way I can clamp the wet leather in the mold for a couple hours so the leather has a time to form to the mold. If you don't use a wooden mold you can form your leather around the object by tacking it around the object on a wood board with blued tacks. It is not the best way but for one time use it works fine. Use small tacks as so to not make too big holes to cover up. Most the time I try to use the holes from the tacks to sew with.

I would reccomend the stolhman book on leather tools, There he has several good tips on how to use the knife and how to sharpen it as well as a lot of the other leather tools you will use. I can give you a few tips here. 1- DON'T PUT ANYTHING IN FRONT OF THE KNIFE YOU DON'T ENTEND ON CUTTING OFF! most importaint is fingers. 2- If you drop the knife, let it fall and do not try to catch it. Just step back and pick it up after it gets through bouncing around. 3- Push the knife with your upper body, with your elbow tucked in next to your body, Because when the knife slipps it will not go far with your arm tucked in next to your body. 4- Sharpen it, learn to keep it sharp, strop it like you would your swivel knife, every time you pick it up. 5- Always push the knife away from you, never pull it toward you. 6- make a sheath for your round knife and keep it there unless in use. I am sure I have left something out. Everyone should chime in on this one with your tips and things you do with your round knife to keep things in the shop safe. Randy

The prices you charge has a lot to do with what you like to do and what the market will bear in your area. I like repar work as you are able to learn so much from other saddle makers living and dead from the saddles they made. I have some basic prices for repair work in my area, I am higher than some, cheeper than others but I am satisfied with it so that is the most importaint factor. Replace new sheepskin, includes clean and oil with new saddle strings. 250.00, new stirrup leather includes new blevins at 125.00 for both. If I did not like saddle repair maybe my prices would be more to discourage that type of work. What I don't like is zippers, I can do zippers, just don't like to! LOL Randy

My suggestion is that you get what you pay for, I have seen some really good craft tools and then again some that are very poor. You have to really know what you are looking for when you buy one. Sometimes when they are stamping out tools the die they use gets worn out and they keep making them and the product gets very bad and there seems to be no quality control, they just sell them to some unsuspection sole who don't know the difference. My suggestion is to look at Bary King's tools, they are not cheep but I feel you get the best value for you dollar without breaking the bank. Just my .02 cents worth. Randhy

This machine will not work very well for holster work, not saying you cannot sew light weight hoslsters but a cyclender arm maching will work better like the cobra class 4. The flatbed maching would be better for chaps, belts and such work.

The first two are pictures of my old shop that was in my basement, the last two are of my new shop with lot's more room and better layout.

Got to my web site, www.cornelius-saddlery.com there are some pictures of my shop there that may give you some ideas.

I use Polycoat wood finsh (water base) as an edge dressing.

I know weaver leather has the plain ones like the HS brand. But you need a tax number to buy from them.

Gum Tac is one way but I don't like the stuff because it ususally gets somewhere you don't want it. Try this way to see if you like it. Wet the flesh side, run a little yellow paste saddle soap into the fibers, rub briskly with a piece of heavy canvas or blue jeans material always going in the same direction. This will make the fibers lay down. Let it dry and come back over it with a good finish of your choise. Randy

Welcome, ask us anything you will get several answers and one of them might be right! lol

If you have the Stohlman Saddlemaking books this is covered in them. I don't have them in front of me right now or I could quote out of the book. Will look when I get home if no one has the answer.

I just got through working on a set of Harley saddle bags very simular that dated 1958 +/-. The welt is made of early plastic that is very brittle to work with and even harder to sew and make it lay straight. What I found is that parts of the welt had came loose and stretched so a small section had to be cut out to make it lay even and re sewn. As far as a sutable replacement, your guess is as good as mine. Don't know where to start looking. Sorry I cannot be more help. Randy

Been there done that!

Welcome, you are off to a very good start by looking at your work. By the way I life just south of KC.

The benefit is that it is used where you cannot get a needle in underneather the bottom side of the Cheyene roll.

I think he is refering to what most, or some of use call a jerk needle. It is more or less like a needle off an old landis sole stitcher. You push the jerk needle down through the hole. wrap the thread around the needle and the small slice ( whatever you call it) catches the thread and you pull up a loop, pass the thread through the loop and pull the threads tight. Kinda like a speedy stiticher.