Hedge

The one above the Spanish ring knot. It's just that the 'V's are tending to wrap around the knot. Too late to adjust it. Best done when the knot is being tightened. No worries, though. The whole thing looks really fine.

Really nice job! I like your design, as well. The only critique I have is your end knot. 'tis a bit uneven. But, hey, first cut at 12 plait and you did admirably.

Stohlman's books on making leather cases will show you how to make the case in your picture. Basically, it's just soaking the leather in water until it is pliable enough to shape. Then, you form it around a wood block. As for hardening leather, I've used a hair dryer on cased leather. Works well for knife sheaths. But, you have to take care not to over heat it. If it's too hot for your hand, it's too hot for the leather. Leather armor is a specialty of the SCA. Check out some of their sites. There are dozens of "recipes" for making shaped armor. Hedge

Have you tried this site? Excellent tutorial on a 6 bight Turk's head. Might give you a different way of looking at the construction. http://hought.com/art.6bth.1.html Hedge.

LOL!!! Ok, reckon we can wait. They're lucky that they can roll in the mud. We still have more snow than we know what to do with. Heck, our north and west fences are 3 feet under! Myriam's going to get plenty of practice mending fences this spring. Hedge

You're welcome. (Hey, when do we get to see pics of your herd?) Hedge

Like Butch said, you're no longer wet behind the ears. The only refinement I can see is putting in a stitching groove on your next one. Hedge

Crystal, Why not try using some baking soda in water and scrubbing the green off with a toothbrush? That should work without having the concern with the acid in the vinegar. Hedge.

Don't go too liberal with the oil. And give it time, at least over night, to soak in before you do the top coat. I've not noticed any curl after dying, but it makes sense if you really pile on the dye. There is another member who mixes his dyes with Neatsfoot oil before applying it to the leather. Can't remember the thread. Hedge

Hi John. Welcome to the group! Like Katie said, start out with what you're most passionate about. That will give you the drive to work past the inevitable boo-boo's. Search the forum for hints and techniques and just ask. Lots of people here that want to help. There is a series of Al Stohlman books "The Art of Making Cases" that will help, as well. Tandy carries them. Hope your furlough is a short one. Hedge

Yours look tight enough, Karen. It's not a matter of getting them tighter. Just a using consistent tension. You can keep an eye on the effect by watching the "V's" on the previous lays and keeping them lined up. As to beveling, check out Hilly's post here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...amp;hl=beveling Hedge

I use a leather core and then mouse it up with waxed thread to give it the shape I want. Then I braid over that. Hedge

Hi Karen, You're coming along well. I particularly like the first one. I see a some things you might want to work on to "polish" your braiding. In the second pic, it looks like the strings haven't been beveled. If you bevel them and then roll the finished braid, you will get a smoother, finished look. If you're not familiar with rolling, you do the same as you would to create clay ropes. Use a piece of smooth hardwood and roll the braid between it and a smooth hard surface. Other thing I noticed is on the 2-colored braid. The pattern rotates around the braid. This is caused (if not intentional) by variations in the way the strings are layed and tightened when braiding. Keep it up! You have some nice designs. Hedge

Dr. Jackson's Hide Rejuvinator works well. Myriam used it on some old, stiff harness leather and got it pliable. Give it time to work, though. Several applications over a few days and don't put too much on. Hedge

Luke, You could also try Ubraidit.com. They carry a variety of colored 'roo. Hedge

I wouldn't have rounded down, entiendo. Your strings are going to stretch a tad as you braid. Horsehairbraider had good advice...don't pull too hard. You just need to set your lays firmly. Just had a thought...when I first started braiding, I had a tendency to pull towards me when I tightend my strings. That left gaps. Could that be what's happening on your quirt? Hedge

Ah, I see. Then I'd suggest tying piece of latigo to the quirt and then to something secure. That way, you can twist the quirt to see how the braiding is coming along.

It's all practice, practice, practice. You'll get the feel for it, eventually. If, by taking off the clamp, you mean you don't have the starting end secured, I think you're going to run into more of a problem. You need a way to get a consistent pull and that clamp will help. Hedge

Never been able to use any other blade on it, either. I'm tempted to use it as a pattern and make a more versatile one out of brass.

Clay, You forgot to mention the balmy -55 deg F. (without windchill) we had a bit ago. My glass thermometer bottomed out and the electronic one went out-of-range. Hedge

You're welcome, Tony. I hope you can follow the illustration. Grant's drawings leave something to be desired. But, with some perseverance, you should figure it out.

I've been going through my references on the croc ridge braid. It sure looks like a variation of the crocodile ridge of 2 outer half-rounds (pg 237 of Grant). And if you look at pg 228 bottom left, taking into account the loose braiding and lack of beveling, I think you'll see the braid pattern you're looking for. Hedge I don't know if I'll get the time, soon, but I want to see what I can work up.

Tony, Without seeing the picture, I suspect you're talking about the crocodile ridge braid. You can find the instructions in Grant's encyclopedia starting on page 230. Hedge

Yup, and to be more specific, it's the last remaining member of a species over 20 million years old. Unique to North America and the fastest animal in the western hemisphere. I've clocked them at 60 mph out in Wyoming.

Love the design and colors . Nice work, Max!