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DrmCa

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Everything posted by DrmCa

  1. Are they hand stitched or machine? If machine, did you use a binder for the one in the bottom 3 pictures?
  2. Would not unscrewing the presser foot spring bolt change the way machine stitches? I'd be careful with the spring screw. My experience with several machines was that improper spring tension may cause skipping especially when material thickness changes like when going over folds and seams.
  3. Of course, but that meant driving around or waiting for a mail order, and just uzing a jigsaw for 30 seconds sounded like a shorter route to starting to stitch right away! This is the same servo motor 0-3450 RPM I am using. Made by "Family". The clutch motor also looks exactly the same. Mine is 1740 or 1750 RPM and is 1/2 HP. I forgot to mention that the servo motor uses a different set of holes. The holes for the clutch motor were through the wood, while the holes for the servo were blind with the threaded bushings. I had a threaded rod in the same diameter and thread pattern which I cut to the length of about 3" and re-used the nuts from the bolts that came with the table/clutch motor. The distance between the clutch holes and servo holes was about 3/4" if I remember correctly and the clutch holes were closer to the right.
  4. Your motor is 550 watt or 3/4 HP. That is what the my machine dealer installs on all such machines and I am using it with Pfaff 335. I also swapped its large pulley for a small pulley from a 3500 RPM clutch motor and now I can go very slowly: cluck......cluck.....cluck. As to the length of belt, I kept the old belt which came with the machine and its 1750 RPM clutch motor, but made a plate from 3/16" fiberboard to compensate. You can see I am at the end of the adjusting screw on the motor.
  5. Adler's handwheel has a rim of much larger diameter which could be helpful in turning it manually in the difficult areas.
  6. Does anybody know what is the largest size of needle 335-17 should work with? I tried size 24 but the needle alone could not pass through the slit in the hook. Looks like that it would not pass through the hole in the feed dog if I used saddlery thread. It is not alignment - trying from the bottom the needle's tip gets stuck in the slit. Does it mean I am limited to size 22?
  7. 1. Your own site. You can start from blogspot and grow from there. 2. Gunbroker. This is a good way to reach wide audience IMO.
  8. Absolutely beautiful. Love the width of the belt!
  9. What's on the other side? Are these riveted or threaded for a nut? I could make small quantities of these on a lathe.
  10. Got it. The machine stitches fine without the guide, so I'll take a wait and see approach.
  11. Does not look broken, maybe grinded off cleanly. Or may be there are different styles of the needle bars out there?
  12. There is a tapered grove on the left side of the needle bar as in the attached picture. Should there be also a thread guide as for example in Juki 553 to guide the thread onto that grove? I did some googling but could not find any hi res pictures of the needle bar with any guides. Thank you!
  13. Does that mean both 134 and 135 are good? Pardon my ignorance, but what is the difference?
  14. DrmCa

    IMG 0135

    Very good taste and excellent worksmanship. Thanks for a morning charge of positive emotions!
  15. DrmCa

    Chest rig

    Superb worksmanship! Impressive. How does the rig feel in hot weather?
  16. Hi all, Tried googling but could not get a definitive answer regarding needle system of Pfaff 335-17. The dealer who sold it to me told me it was 135-16. But the dealer whom I usually buy supplies from sells 190LR needles for this machine. Looking primarily for the size 18-24 leather point needles, but going to need some smaller textile needles too. Could leather and textile needles be of a different system for this machine? Appreciate your input!
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