Shorts

Thanks Mike You're right about the tension and concentrating and taking breaks. Many mistakes are avoidable! Edit added - Here's that process in the sample here. I used the single needle saddle stitch so its got that goofy tread pattern in the stitch holes from the angle of the thread instead of that normal consistent thread overlap.

The belt, my dremel and I spent some intimate time together last night. Let's just say, it was a messy affair ...lesson learned I got the belt down lighter than 7/8oz and I'll be stitching the single layer next. (I thought that the lighter weight of a singled layer stitched belt would be less stiff and easier to wear casually. Or am I wrong and be better to stick with a straight 7/8oz singled layer stitched belt?) Ok, moving to my next question about the dye and finish. I normally dye after stitching. And when I use white thread, the thread takes the dye. This time, I would like to keep the thread white. Would there be any harm in dyeing (and sealing?) the belt BEFORE stitching? I'm thinking that this will allow the thread to stay white for a nice contrast effect (I'm asking the customer tonight which she'd actually prefer for stitching color but I'm asking these questions now so that I'm ready to go to work asap). Note: I'm doing a quick test sample of the above method to take tonight for inspection Sorry for all the questions on the build. This is just really my first local order with friends for customers and I'm just trying to get everything just right. I hope I'm not overthinking things!

Excellent! Keep us posted! I've never used W&C. I guess one of these days I'll have to get a little and see how she goes. Happy New Year!

Alright, totally tangent question here. What/when/why do you seal the flesh side of leather? As in what projects or items is this done? Is this particular method done for a particular reason? Or is it just an option available? I make holsters and the inside gets sealed with Resolene. Is that the same idea as what's here?

Yes, inside and out. All the leather is sealed .

When making my gun belts I slice two straps off the side, then line them up reverse so to offset any imperfections/differences in the leather (grain and such). Without a splitter, you're going to have a real tough time evening any piece of leather out to uniform weight. I want to cut my own straps from my own side, its just my preference for belts. I know what the leather looks like and I can see first hand just what piece I'm getting. I use Herman Oak and I've found it consistent, more so than others. I build a lot of holsters and HO molds very well.

A quick dip yields nice results. I airbrush a lot right now though. I can't get Resolene to brush on in a nice even coat to save my life.

Interesting ideas Paul. I know a few shoe repair shops. Thank you. The belt is a birthday gift for a friend from a friend. I'll make the deadline, it'll just make the time between now and then a little exciting

Thanks Phil - I'm going to take that advice from Timbo What will work out wonderfully is that the stitching will stay white and remain contrast for the belt color (a brown to match her boots). It is much quicker to stitch a single layer than it is to stitch double. And I'm also going to take this quick order as a lesson to be better prepared for the future! How this order came up was I was wearing my belt to a party. You know, a great way to advertise is to use your stuff. Well, a friend asked about it. Then asked if I'd make one for a mutual friend of ours. She even wants a few for her sons and husband (after our move though) lol

Hey folks....I'm in Japan. Belt is to be presented on the 9th of Jan and came about at the Christmas shindig. It's a bit of a last minute request. So I'm on a deadline with this one. Ideally I have several weights of leather on hand in a nice roomy shop. But unfortunately not possibly right now I can get the belt finished up quick. It's the stitching that takes me several days as I do all my stitching by hand. I appreciate all the suggestions. They will definitely come in handy. I'm moving back to the States at the end of the month and I will finally have my workroom and supplies closer at hand and better setup Thanks yall!

The two are beautiful! Nicework!

Ohh yes - excellent! They do have hand planes there, I've him-hawed about buying one before as a backup tool for something but never did since "I didn't need it". Well, now I can need it!

Thanks Bree. I don't have a drum sander or HF (I'm in Japan right now). But the idea is sound and I can get my hands on some hand held sanders (they might work). I totally hear you on the dust. I keep masks on hand Sanding dry leather is crazy! Instead of 'the black lung' (from 'Zoolander' movie) I'm going to get 'the brown lung'

Yup, trying to split. Sorry for the incorrect terminology there. Stitching a single layer feels like a waste to me. I mean, I can do it, it just feels odd not stitching one piece to another Barra, thanks for the idea. The hardware store across the street stocks lots of tools for woodworking (we're in Japan). I may be able to find a tool that works. I know they've got plenty of blades and such, I've gone through there often for various projects.

I'm putting together a belt for a friend (birthday gift due on the 9th!). I am using 7/8oz veg tan Herman Oak as it is what I have available. I would like to glue two pieces together for a smooth inside and outside, and have a good reason to stitch it. It is for a fashion belt rather than a gun belt. So I need to half my leather but I have no skiver or splitter. What can I use (tool wise) in order to thin down the straps? I have those thin bladed exactos but they wear very quick and keeping the blade straight in order to split a strap is kind of tedious. Is that just what I'm going to have to work with in order to get this done? Suggestions? Or should I just go for a single layer belt without stitches? I'm afraid if I go no stitches that the belt will get all stretched and floppy much sooner than if it were stitched. Am I being irrational here?

I also tape a dowel on the gun for the sight channel.

Ok. I have used Satin Sheen. Thanks for the info!

I currently use Resolene to finish my items and I'm pleased with the results. I'm considering trying Angelus Acrylic finisher in order to 'see what else is out there'. I'll also be switching to Angelus dyes and changing a little of my production process. Anyonew have any experience with Angelus finish, either the semi/gloss or the satin formula? I'll be using this on modern holsters and belts.

I use the Coal Black now. I found some leather kept the blue tint, the oher leather displays the a green tint. In order to get a nice black, I have to coat the black very heavy. The Resolene will darken it up but depending on the lighting, the lighter spots of dye are exposed revealing the green tint. I'm really itching to get to using "real" dyes instead of the Eco-Flo. The Eco-Flo is not without its charms, but I'd like to try others for the process and ease of dyeing

I groove the top side, punch the holes, then groove the backside in a connect-the-dots sort of way. Yes, oddly enough, they all remain straight What counts most is keeping the awl straight whether you groove backside before punching or after. As mentioned, grooving the back allows the stitches to set a little further in the leather. Especially belts and holsters, protecting the stitches that are constantly laying against clothing and seams so they stand a chance of lasting as long as they can.

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year Take care

I see that on Bison Brown as well. I usually spray through that until it no longer has that metallic color and ends nice and dark. The coal black does get that blued/red metallic look as well. I've found the following coat of Resolene darkens everything to its proper color.

Ya done good What weight leather did you use?

Well, I'm going to be a nerd here and say that drawings only go so far Build it and wear it - the true test of function I will say though I echo the comments about cutting the sweat shield too far to the grip. You will have trouble on the draw stroke. I know you said you want it for comfort, that's fine. That's why they are there. I wear mine with the normal sweat shields to cover the thumb safety and slide and the thing is comfy all day long. Now wearing ANY holster and gun, if you lean over to that side real far, it'll be uncomfortable The rear loop, that will be hit or miss on whether or not it will interfere with the grip. Much will matter how the leather is contouring on your belt line. If it contours back, the grip will be unobstructed. Build it and he will come...

Good stuff!