MG513
-
Content Count
206 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by MG513
-
-
Ok. I didn’t thin down the inner pockets really so I’ll try that and see how it’s goes.
-
Having this same problem with a shell wallet I just made...
did any of the things suggested actually work? Obviously this wallet is already completed but definitely want to avoid this in the future! (Photo looks exactly like the one posted above, too much trouble to resize my pic)
-
Does anyone have a solution for this on roller feed driven machine?? The roller isn’t exactly accessible on machines like this unlike flat beds... will parchment paper work without deflecting stitches?? Id rather not ruin shell Cordovan with these marks!! (And no I don’t want to hand stitch. Not my thing!) thx
-
On 10/13/2020 at 3:11 PM, gj001 said:I found this video on YouTube and I was wondering if I can make that kind of look with other leathers. Can I melt a black wax and dump a leather in it to get that kind of look?
Doubt it. This type of look can be achieved with dye however. Search for Orion calf. As far as the wax goes I’d honestly suggest buying it from someone who already has the formula down pat
-
On 2/14/2021 at 11:47 PM, Danne said:I haven't done turned edges, except just tried the technique. I would do the pockets like this. And the bottom pocket fully folded all the way. And what I did was basically to skive the folded part at the transition. You can have a look at eatsleeplay on Instagram, he have some photos of fully lined folded pockets, which also seems like a nice solution. Even though i see this as a good solution, because it keeps the bulk of the pockets down. (I used leather around 0.5mm here. No problem to go thinner, especially not with a leather like goat that have very good tear strength.
Very nice, thx for posting! Also thanks for that link, I had never seen pockets folded that way before! Ps, when you made your orange wallet what spi were you using??
-
On 6/12/2018 at 6:13 PM, RockyAussie said:Hey jimi, yes that is correct. One side has the gussets and the other not.
Thanks @garypl turning inside out is not that hard but I should have pointed out that doing that with glazed crocodile would be very difficult with out getting wrinkles in the glaze.
I should also point out that if doing this in most leathers the leather lining would not be necessary. Thickness wise between 1 to 1.4mm (about 3oz) would work fine.
Thank you all for the kind comments..... It helps to know if it is of any help to anyone
I wouldn’t mind a vid on how you turn something like inside out frankly. I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around how you did it without ripping a stitch! Great work!
-
On 9/14/2020 at 6:31 PM, Danne said:Thank you for the clip. That way don't really work for me, since I overlap my pockets. I have done some tests and it's hard to make two close to identical pieces and it also have to match up close to perfect for the stitch lengths to match up. When it's just two edges it's no problem, then I can trim the rest against the exterior edge after glued in place. Like this one.
The "top piece" under the card pockets are skived under the card pocket edges outer corners to reduce bulk. (See the red arrow)
Would love to see your method on how to do a turned edge like this when it isn’t a straight across pocket!
edit: now I see that this particular pocket was not rolled, but none the less will still love to see your process for a roller edge! Nice work
-
On 1/31/2021 at 5:42 PM, stangman645 said:where did you get the skiver table? I'm looking for one for the same thing, limited on space
You may be able to get a space saver table from Hoffman brothers
-
On 1/8/2020 at 2:34 AM, RockyAussie said:Is that with the logo in it?
I generally get away with 250m on the main colour and have gotten away with 100metres on other colours if in the same order. We have been dealing with them for a long time I suppose. If it makes any difference I have never had any frayed edges on any product that came back for a revamp. Having done repairs for years I can't say how many wallets I've seen the fabric pull away from the edges except to say that it is nearly all of them if they are more than a year or 2 old. I would hate EVER getting anything back that I might feel ashamed I made. If you want to buy a metre or so to try out PM me your details and we will sort something out if you want.The colours I have in stock at present are black, dark brown, tan, red, pink & orange.
Thanks a lot for posting this, I’m on the hunt for a quality lining fabric that comes in lots of colors as well.
would you not suggest purchasing jacquard from somewhere else? I got sure can’t meet the minimums that where mentioned here!
-
22 hours ago, Hardrada said:One observation on the shell cordovan thing: I think the favoured practice is not to line these in order for the 'Genuine Shell Cordovan' stamp from the tannery can be displayed on the insides of the items crafted with such leather.
See an example:
For sure, definitely seen a lot like that. I’ve also come across finer work like this though, where it’s clearly been thinned down. Just can’t pinpoint a weight!
-
23 hours ago, CheronC said:The link below shows more pictures with the rollers, the light on and the size of the table (48" long).
https://storage.net-fs.com/hosting/6766248/13/
I did research on freight services and it is $355 (not drop off inside of residence/business)- please find quote attached. Even more, the crate I would have to ship it in is $165 (uline). That is the least amount I found for freight quotes. If you are still interested in this item, I am happy to jump on a zoom call to show you more of the item and run tests of it while you are on zoom.
Thanks for getting back with this!
I am still awaiting a quote from a company closer to home that I reached out to before I got on the site. I will think about this one and see what would be the best option between the two. Thank you
-
8 hours ago, Danne said:Yes, just like Hardrada said, it's lined with chevre. I'm certainly no leather expert, but the strongest part of the leather is the grain. And there is no problem to make a leather in 1mm goat leather (no lining) but if I instead line the pocket and use two layers of 0.5mm leather it will be stronger, and of course stretch less, so the wallet interior will keep it's shape better, and just like Hardrada also said it look better.
Thanks a lot for your reply your work is very nice! If you made a wallet out of shell Cordovan, would you you also do the same by thinning it down? Id think it could be either lined or unlined but I’m not sure. Curious as too how others would go about it
-
6 hours ago, CheronC said:I will get a quote from a freight company and respond accordingly with it.
Cool beans. If you could also post a photo of all the extras it comes with, rollers feet etc. thx
-
3 hours ago, Hardrada said:I'm sure @Danne will elaborate, but you can see in the third picture that it is indeed lined with leather—with the chevre.
One reason for splitting so thin is so that you can glue two pieces of the same leather back to back and have grain on both sides—instead of grain on front, flesh on back, kinda like what they do with lined belts. Having grain on both sides makes the item more durable and way more aesthetically appealing.
Thanks a lot for your reply! I was able to go through some other post and someone else had asked a similar question, so now that I think of it that totally makes sense! This way your not stuck with the flesh side of the leather on the inside panels which over time are bound to catch lint and debri. I’m going to have to get a skiver to pull this type of construction off though...
thanks!
-
On 11/27/2020 at 3:34 AM, Danne said:Thank you
Thank you
Thank you,
It's 0.5mm and 0.9mm (Everything is lined except card pockets)
This looks great! When you say it’s lined, what is it lined with?? I’d imagine it’s not another piece of leather otherwise that would defeat the purpose of splitting so thin to begin with
-
On 11/22/2020 at 5:43 AM, Danne said:So, I have decided it's time to buy a skiving machine. Since I have limited space I can't buy a larger machine with exhaust. I included a drawing of my plan for my new work area. I will mount the skiving machine directly onto my table to the left of the cabinet (Dimensions not exact here it will be a little bit more table space to the left of the cabinet) And I will do a diy-solution for the exhaust. Probably 3d-print a connector for a vacuum cleaner.
I have a couple of questions.
1. I plan to buy a Fortuna SM50 or a FAV2 (Depends of what I find) I know I can add a second motor to the FAV2 machine, but can I do the same to SM50? (I can't find a manual for that machine, or photos so I can see if it's possible) A second motor will of course be so I can run the bell knife at full speed all the time.
2. A general question. If you just like me work with both softer leather (like chevre sully) and stiffer veg tan, and you want to increase the gap slightly between the presser feet and the bell knife when skiving/splitting veg tan. How do you do this the best way practically. Because when you sharpen the knife at one position, let's say you have a small gap for softer leather, and increase the gap for stiffer leather, you want to move the bell knife back to it's "original position" before you sharpen the next time again, or you will have to reshape a new bevel on the knife everytime. My thoughts. two different thickness of paper? (Now I don't know the perfect distance for different types of leather, but let's say 0.2mm is suitable for softer chrome tan, and 0.5mm for veg tan. Then I have two pieces of paper so I can adjust for veg tan, and adjust it back to thin leather and not having to do a lot of reshaping of the knife when sharpening the next time.
3. Which feed roll would be most suitable for me when using softer chrome/combination tanned and stiffer veg tan (Will rarely skive/split thicker leather than 1.5mm) and split down to around 0.5mm for lined card pockets keeper lining on watch straps and such (Yes I know it requires some practice for a good result) Emery fina grain? Emery medium grain? or Vulkollan? Or do I need different feed wheels for different leather?
I'm sorry if I explained this bad, if you don't understand how I mean just ask, and I try to explain better.
If you have any other advice in the choice of machines or accessories like sharpening stones, feed wheels and such please share.
This is a great question. My leather needs are the same as yours. Did you ever get any answers??
-
On 1/9/2020 at 9:01 PM, Lockeland Leather Works said:Interested in the skiver as well. I’m assuming this is a bottom feed because of price but could you confirm this? Also is there a separate motor for feeding or not?
-
17 hours ago, CheronC said:I, also, have a Highlead GC0618-1SC-1sc (with table). I would offer that for $500 (reg. $1500). For transparency, I bought it to sew light weight leather and often times had a problem with it skipping; Thus, every couple of months, I was calling someone to help me calibrate it. But, for someone who can either calibrate readily, or has a mechanic in house or on call, it will be more of a value to them/you. I will happily jump on a zoom call to show both machines to you.
Your prices are very fair! I’m interested in the skiver but I’m in Ohio. How would you go about getting a shipping quote? I’d imagine it’d be no less than $250. Cincinnati 45214 shipping to a dock
-
On 1/22/2020 at 2:16 AM, axmay said:Does anyone have any experience with or heard anything about the Nippy NPS7 mini-skiver?
I personally haven’t from anyone in the states. I’ve asked about the machine and the response so far has been that they aren’t entering our market just yet. Nippy had a great reputation for skivers though. I’d imagine if you’re going mini you have a very specific type of work you do and don’t plan on branching out, as that machine has more limitation than the traditional size of I’m not mistaken
-
On 5/16/2018 at 12:03 PM, scrapyarddog said:It's too expensive for me too. Took a deep breath before marking. Beautiful leather, and you can see how dense it is after you split it.
I did not split the pieces for the main body of the wallet.
So you went full thickness for the outer body but 3oz on the pockets? How’s it turn out? That’s still pretty thick.
I see many makers overseas get their shell thinned quite a bit and it just makes for a much sleeker look. I’m looking to do my first wallet too but have no way of splitting without send it out
-
On 4/5/2020 at 10:32 AM, teejaysee said:Has anyone used either leather from Shinki (NOT the Cordovan range but their other regular horse hides), or Tochigi?
Tried to google about them but most results i got only shows the end product, and it seems that information is scarce about working with them or how they compare to each other or to the more common leathers like Buttero, Pueblo, etc.
Thanks in advance!
Rocky Mountain sells shinki horse butts. Tanned the same as cordovan but more affordable. I’ve used tochigi, it is a gorgeous leather. It gives you a shine like cordovan even though it isn’t, it’s the only “regular” veg I’ve come across like it. A close second is russet harness from wicket. I made a wallet 2 years ago out of it along with the tochigi to see how they’d age and I can barely tell the 2 apart, not to mention my wallet is holding up great and still smells like leather!!
The person I got my tochigi from years ago in the states doesn’t carry it anymore, you’d have to order it direct from Japan.
-
39 minutes ago, mike02130 said:How thick are the slots ? Are you planning on skiving them down by hand? I would use .8 mm goat skin.
True. The thing with goat is the ability to burnish. I love the look of goat but I like the natural edge finish of the cordovan
-
On 10/26/2019 at 10:25 AM, BridleButt said:I just bought some Hinki Shikaku shell cordovan and I'm not impressed at all. The Hinki looks and feels like plastic and the flesh side showed wrinkles immediately and wasn't smooth and poreless. The grain side showed stress when folding it for a wallet, almost like it was flaking. To be fair, this is a first impression and time will tell how the Hinki wallets age. I've used both Horweens and https://www.cordovan.co/ in the past and I'd rate them #1 (by a large margin) and #2 respectively in quality and longevity. I'll try to post pics of wallets made from each type after a couple of years use and the Hinki I got yesterday.
Still feeling the same about this?? I love the shine Shinki is able to produce but I wouldn’t want it to feel like plastic though!
-
On 11/3/2020 at 4:19 PM, Aaaron said:Hey there! I’m thinking of making a wallet fully made out of shell cordovan. Was wondering if it’s a good idea to thin shell cordovan for the inner card slots? And if so, what is the maximum I should thin it too? Thank you
(People have been saying it’s a waste to thin shell cordovan but the wallet I’m making have many card slots, so the overall wallet will become super thick. Just wondering how do you guys do it??)
What did you decide?? I too am looking to make my first wallet out of shell for my brother but he is a card hoarder a d there’s no way this can be used at its usual thickness for the amount of pockets needed!
Best Skiving Machine For Soft Temper Leathers (And Firm Too)
in Leather Tools
Posted · Report reply
I don’t know what you’re skiving but there are 2 skiving machines widely available, 1 Is for thicker veg tan leathers, 8oz and above, and the other is for both chrome and veg 8oz an under. Fav, Fortuna and Nippy are still the Trail Blazers, everything else is a copy. I use mine for footwear and got one with a dual motor to have better control. Buy one from a company that will help you when you have questions because you will have them! However if you do any work that requires thinning the time saved is exponential, especially once u get the technique down.