okie44

You can go on the manufacturers page, and get the dimensions. If they have a good profile photo of the gun, you can print it off full size, to match the dimensions of the gun. If the mfg page doesn't have a good photo, just go to google to find a photo. This is especially helpful on guns that are hard to find in gun shops. I have used this many times, and you get a more accurate drawing, and it's easier than chasing guns.

One of the first things I noticed, about plastic holsters, is that they tend to eat gun finishes mush faster than than any leather holster I ever used. I had one for a Glock 23, and in no time, I could see marks in the finish. Glock has one of the hardest black finishes I have seen, so if it wears that fast, it would destroy a blue finish in no time. I know that some of them are cheaper, but they will never equal the retention, and life, of a well made leather holster. I know some of the "tactical" folks don't seem to worry much about how beat up their equipment looks. The more beat-up, I guess the more "authentic" they look.

That didn't work so well, so try this

Mernickle Holsters makes an extremely high ride belt holster that does not tip out, at least not if the belt is reasonably tight. I made a copy, for my personal use, and I carry a full size .45 acp Springfield XD in it with no problems. The secret to this holster is a flap that goes over the belt behind the holster, and has a built-up shim, for the lack of a better word, near the bottom. This forces the bottom of the holster out a little, and prevents tipping. I have posted a link to an article on Gun Blast, that has a photo about half way down the page, that shows the flap I am talking about. Mernickle-PS61.htm

I don't have a pattern, but you can go on line and google the model judge you need. You will be able to find good profile views, and the manufactures will list the dimensions. Just adjust the picture to print the correct size, and print all the patterns you want. After making several holsters, I can usually tell how much to allow around it for stitch lines. Hope this helps.

Just a thought, and best for another board, but do you remember the cop that had a bull pup 12ga built several years ago, that was strapped to the shoulder and able to fire with with one hand. Was made for a one armed cop, and I think it is NFA now, but would be a good way to go in the situation you mentioned.

I have made a few holsters that are flat on the back, and molded on the outside. I usually allow more leather on the front side. I make the back stitch line the size of the gun outline. I allow about the thickness of the gun, added to the front, then wet mold only the front side. This allows the front to stretch, and and leaves the back flat. That may not be the only way to do it, but it works for me. Hope this helps.

The way I use to get the stitch line close to the gun, is as follows: along the spine of the holster, I allow the full thickness of the gun. Along the trigger guard side, I only allow the thickness of the leather for the stitch line. This makes for a very tight fitting holster, that needs to be stretched to fit the gun. Just wet the holster, and insert the gun. You will have to work the gun into it, and then do the final form fitting, and boning. This works well for me, and as yet, I have not had to throw away holsters because I couldn't get the gun in. This takes most of the stretch out of the leather, so it doesn't loosen up as much with wear. Hope this helps, and keep up the good work. The holster looks nice.

i really like the look of those grips. I may just try a set myself.

I usually make my holsters very tight. When you start putting the gun in, it doesn't look like it will fit at all. I sometime use the handle of a tool, to stretch enough to get started, then just work the gun into the wet holster. By doing this, you use up most of the stretch in the leather, which makes it less likely to loosen with age. Sometimes it is a bit scary when you look at the gun, and the new holster, but so far, I have not had to throw one away because it's too small.

i have one of the Rock Island full size 1911's, with the smooth grips. These grips are a little smaller than standard, and if yours are the same, you might just cover them with leather. I think that is what has been done with the stingray grips I posted earlier. If you want to make them using all leather, you will need kydex, or metal, or some other material for a stiffener, as they are thin, and a long way between mounting holes. If you decide to try it, I'd like to see how they come out.

I found this photo on a forum. i don't see there would be any problem doing the same thing with leather. I would seal ti real well to help with oils from your hand.

I like the tape on the wing nut, been cussin mine for a while, and just too lazy to try something. Oh, and the holster looks like a good idea too.

The lace would probably keep the gun from falling out, but most people who carry cocked and locked prefer to have the strap between hammer and firing pin as an extra safety feature.

I am a little like gregintenn, in that I am a guesser. The method I use is perhaps a little risky, but it has worked well for me. I like start by downloading a good profile of the gun, then adjusting it to full size, then printing ir out, and then cutting it out, to use as a pattern. I mark the first stitch line, as the top of the slide. I measure the thickness of the slide, then use 1/2 that distance, plus the thickness of the leather, and move the pattern that far from the initial line, and draw my stitch line. This will result in a holster that seems too small for the gun. I then soak the holster in water, or rubbing alcohol, and put the gun in the holster. It will have to stretch the leather a good bit, and will require working the leather around the gun with fingers, or tools. When the gun is finally fit to the holster, it will be a nice close fit, and with all the stretch taken out of the leather, it won't work loose after a while. Some times I am a bit worried when I start, but have never had to throw one away because it is too small. The reason I like to use alcohol, is it leaves the leather a bit firmer, dries faster, and is not as likely to rust a metal gun. The photo I have included, is an old one, and the boning is not too good, but it is the only pic I have right now. You can see the fit tho. Hope the long winded post is of some help.

Another way, is to go on the internet, and find a good picture of the gun you need, then scale the image to full size, and print it out. Then you have all the details, and dimensions right there. Easier than finding a gun and measuring it. I use it a lot for making the basic layout for a holster also, when I don't have the gun handy. It is more accurate than drawing around the gun also.

I have had good luck using isopropyl alcohol. Just wet the inside of the holster, and put the gun in. You may want to move the gun around a little, to get the fit you want. With the alcohol, the gun won't rust, and I have yet to see a leather holster that wouldn't absorb the alcohol. As was mentioned, above, don't soak the holster so much that the outside is wet. I am somewhat familiar with the guns you are talking about, and there is not a lot of difference in the frames, if I am remembering correctly, so it should work fine.

I have seen holsters made by Garrett Industries (My link) that have 3-4 oz leather bonded to the inside of Kydex. I am wondering if any of you know, or have an idea what they use as a bonding agent. There are many things I like about Kydex, but it is noisy, and very hard on the finish of a gun. Thanks, John

I found this link some time ago, when I first started making my own holsters. I was interested in making some of my holsters as hard as practical, and also water proof. Their is a bunch of information in this post, and a lot of it does not apply directly to making holsters, but I found it interesting. I have used the heat method to harden holsters, with good success, if you are careful about how hot, and how long you leave it in the heat. I have also used the wax process on some rear pocket holsters, as they are subject to a lot of sweat when I wear them. I tried 2 boxes of paraffin, add about 1/2 bottle of neatsfoot oil, maybe 4oz or so. Heat this to about 180 - 200 deg., in a crock pot. Dip the holster in until it stops bubbling, then pull it out and let it cool. It will be hard, and very water resistant. It will not feel waxey, as it will all absorb into the leather. I have done this a number of times, and have not had trouble with cracking of the leather. I don't use heat so much anymore, as i have found that using rubbing alcohol to work and form the leather holster usually leaves it stiff enough for my purposes, and it dries fast and won't rust the gun. Hope this helps, and doesn't just add more confusion. John Hardening leather

Well, I know that if you ask 10 different folk, you may get 12 different answers.Ha! I know it is what ever works for the individual. I have been making a few holsters, mostly for my own use, for a while now, and what seems to work best for me is this. I usually use 6-7oz leather, and I have gotten in the habit of downloading a profile photo of the gun off the internet, then make a full size print. I cut this out and use it to trace around on the leather. You can use the actual gun, but this way is more accurate, and easier to handle. Then, On an envelope style, I layout the profile, then allow the thickness of the slide, then add the other side of the profile. On the trigger guard side, I allow about the thickness of the leather. I glue the sides together, then stitch it up. This will produce a holster that is too small to slip the gun into. I soak the leather in water, or isopropyl alcohol (I prefer the alcohol), then stretch the holster to fit the gun. This results in a good fit, while removing all excess stretch from the leather, so it is less apt to stretch and loosen its fit with wear. This will pull the stitch line up very close to the trigger guard. On a pancake holster, just lay out both sides, and allow 1/2 the slide thickness along the spine, and allow The leather thickness on the trigger guard side. When doing this, the beginning fit will be very tight, and at times I have wondered when starting to stretch, if this time, I have gone too far. However, at least so far, I have yet to have one that would not work properly and fit well, after forming. Hope this helps John

I have not tried to build any belt loops my self, but I remember reading years ago, that a good way to keep the loops from stretching too much over time, is to cut a strip of leather and wet it, then stretch it as far as it will go. Then use it to make the loops. I don't know if this would help or not.

I have made this style holster. It's not too hard, once you know what the back looks like. I finally found a link to a test site that shows what the back flap looks like. here is the link. Hope this helps. Post some pictures when you get one made. My link

I don't have a pattern, but I am attaching a modified photo I down loaded off the web. You can find photos of just about any gun out there. Just download one, and use any photo soft ware to scale the image to the actual length of the gun. I use photoshop elements filter called "find edges" to give me a line drawing. Just print it out, and you have what you need to start a pattern. You can usually find both length and thickness diminsions on the web also. You will still need the real thing to do your wet forming, but this can get you started.

When I don't have a particular gun for a pattern, instead of trying to trace around one, I just go to the internet. You can almost always find a profile photo of the model you need. Just save the photo, and in a photo editing program, (I use photoshop elements) just size the picture to the actual size of the gun. Then I usually usa a function called "edge finder" to get me an outline drawing. Then just print it out on paper. You can find the dimensions online also. It is more accurate, and a lot faster than going to the gun shop. This gun is 6.625" long. Hope this helps, John.

I know, from reading many posts,that if you ask ten of these experienced holster makers, you will likely get ten different answers. Everyone has their on favorite way of doing it. I think the most of the ones that form before stitching, are using a press with rubber pads to form the leather to the real or blue gun. I personally go along with the idea of making the holster a little tight, then stretching the leather after sewing. This way, you get a good fit, and don't have to worry about the holster getting loose later. That way, you maintain retention over a long period of time. The way I stay out of too much trouble is in the layout process. Along the spine or top of the gun, I allow the thickness of the gun, then on the trigger guard side, I only allow about the thickness of the leather for the stitch line. Some time on a revolver, you need to allow a little more across the cylinder. After you have done one or two, you get a pretty good idea of how much the leather will stretch. So far, I have made a number of holsters, and I haven't made any too small to use this way. I've screwed a few up in other ways! Sometimes I do get a little nervous when I start the stretching process, that this may be the time. I wet the leather thoroughly with water, or rubbing alcohol. Both work, but alcohol won't rust your gun, and tends to make the leather harder. Works for me, but like I said, many very experienced makers use different methods, because the like the way their process works. Hope this helps, and not just add confusion. John