okie44

I agree with Lobo on the alcohol. I haven't tried thinning my dye with alcohol yet, but I do all the molding and boning using alcohol instead of water. It won't rust a blued gun, dries much faster, and leaves the leather firmer. I'm not doing as many holsters as you all are, but I'm impatient. Ha!

Well I was going to stay out of this, seeing as it is already getting contentious, but since you asked, here it is. I'll try to stay out of the spring controversy. A while back, on of the members here (can't remember who) suggested using the tough, flexible plastic used for packaging things. Well, I tried it, and I have been impressed. I have made several holsters using this as additional reinforcement, and so far, I am very pleased with the results. Thanks for the tip. If you get into a situation where you need to stitch across the material, it is much less a problem than trying to pierce metal. Thin spring might work, but ihas been hard for me to find anything suitable. Unless you use very stiff metal, there is a chance of it getting mashed closed, and bent. So far , the plastic works great, and resists taking a permanent bend, even when the holster lips are forced closed. I don't have any construction photos, but here are pics of a completed holster, and the material I am using. This holster has been in constant use as my daily carry, and has the nicks and wear to show for it.

Mine is the "Half Circle J". It was my grandfather's brand in Oklahoma Territory, before state hood. Same name too, I am the IIIrd. Thought it would be cool. I don't have the stamp with the name made yet, but for now, I just stamp the brand on holsters using a J letter stamp, and a half circle made from a ground down roll pin.

Rawhide, thanks for the information. I don't hear a lot of others chiming in, , but you told me what I needed to know. I don't mind waxing my own, as I have had trouble with some pre-waxed thread being greatly over waxed. I do have one other question. I went to the Campbell Bosworth link you sent, and I noticed that along with the Barbours linen thread, they also offer Hungarian linen thread for $25.00. I know you get what you pay for, but am wondering if you have tried any of that? Thanks again for the information, John

Instead of scanning the gun, I have found that pictures of most guns can be found on the internet, usually on the manufacturers page. I check for the guns overall length, then download a copy of the photo, and then scale the photo in Photoshop, or other photo editing program, so it prints actual size. I usually just take the photo and crop it even with the front of the barrel, and the back of the gun, then re-size the photo to match the overall length dimension. I print this out, then use that as a basis to lay out my holster. I only have Photoshop Elements 2, so I don't have the ability to draw inside the program, so I still do the rest by hand. It does give me a good profile of the gun without having to have the gun in my hands and using my scanner. I have tried it both ways, and I think I get a better photo to work with this way. Hope this helps. John

I have a question about thread sizes. I hand stitch all my holsters with 000 saddle stitch needles. I have been using the pre-waxed stuff that Tandy sells, and I like it very well. However, I don't like paying $4.00 or so for 25 yards, which is the only way they sell it. The thread for their sewing awl is a bit too small, and their waxed nylon thread is too large for my tastes. I guess I'm like Goldilocks, and want it just right! Can any of you tell me what the equivalent thread size is, so I can buy it somewhere else, in larger quantities? I can wax it myself if necessary. Thanks

Here is a link to a Kydex knife sheath tutorial. I haven't tried this yet, but he used a foam camp mat from walmart. Should be lots cheaper. I have got the kydex, now all I have to do get around to trying it. John http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast...ydexsheath2.htm

Back to the original request for information, you can get kydex sheet from KnifeKits.com, and several other suppliers. It is heat formed, and can be cut to shape and then heated with a heat gun or other heat source, and formed pretty much shape you would like. John

Many times you can get profile photos and thickness dimensions from ads on the internet. This should allow you to calculate how much to allow for thickness. On pistols, I usually allow the thickness of the gun at the spine of the holster, then allow a little for stitching. This makes a very tight fitting holster, that will need to be wet and the gun inserted for the final fit. Hope this helps. John

I have seen several things mentioned, from thin sheet metal, to various kinds of plastic. I have seen commercial speed draw holsters that used what appears to be 1/8" or so piano wire. This spring wire is available at most hardware stores in various sizes. I haven't tried it yet, but have been thinking about it. I think the piano wire might be better than the welding rod. John

I have made several pancake style, and one piece holsters. I guess the method I use is a little risky, but so far I have gotten away with it. I allow half the thickness of the gun along the spine on each piece, if it is a two piece, and full thickness, if it is a one piece, and only allow about the thickness of the leather, or about 1/8" or so on the trigger guard side. I usually use 7/8 oz leather. I glue to these lines, and let it dry, before stitching. After stitching, I get the leather very wet. some times I use water, but usually use rubbing alcohol, as it drys faster, and I don't have to worry about rusting the gun. While the leather is still wet, I insert the gun into the holster. It usually takes a little work to get the gun into the holster. I sometime use a popsicle stick, or bone folder to help get the gun around tight spots. I always worry when I look at the holster and gun, just before I start, that this time I have pushed my luck too far, but so far, so good. This results in using about all the stretch available in the leather. One of these days I am going to push my luck too far, and end up with one too small, but so far I have been lucky. By doing it this way, I get stitch lines very close to the outline of the gun, and since all the stretch has been taken out of the leather, it doesn't loosen up much as it wears. Hope this helps, John

If you are talking about a 1911 style .45, here is a photo of one style holster with strap under hammer. Most of these will also fit over the hammer if it is down. Hope this helps. John

Very nice looking holsters. Your process is similar to the way I make belt holsters. I usually make the holster a little small for the gun, the stretch it during the wet molding process. I like to take as much stretch out of the leather as possible, so that it is less likely to get loose after it has been worn for awhile. I use rubbing alcohol to wet mine, then I don't have to worry about rusting the gun while drying. Thanks for the photos, and the description of your process.

Good looking holster, and I'm not worried about you stealing my thread. Thanks for the picture, as it answers my question about the rough out leather looks with Tan Kote on it. Thanks, John

Thanks for the advice. I haven't tried Tan Kote yet, but I will on my next rough out holster. I just wet and burnished one of them, and the other one I used bee's wax and rubbed the other one with the back of a piece of cloth backed sand paper. It's probably similar to the denim. both came out reasonably well, but I probably won't bother with the bees wax in the future. One question I have tho is, I use the rough out to help locate the holster in the pocket, but will it work as well if I have Tan Kote on it? John

Hi all, here are photos of my first two pocket carry holsters, and I am going to put these at my friends gun shop, and see if they will sell. One is for a Kel-Tec P3AT with a C.T.C. Laser, and the other one is for the gun alone. They are just simple rough out sleeve style holsters with "horns" top and at trigger guard to help keep the holster in the pocket during the draw. I still have good days and bad days when it comes to stitching, but I am working on it. Sorry about the photo quality, but I am working on that too. It's not that I don't know better, just sometimes I don't do better. Maybe 1 out of three ain't too bad? Here are the photos, let me know what you think. John

Looks like a good start, and you have put a lot of thought into it. One thing to think about, is how big you are and how you are built make a big difference in the size of gun and method of carry. I am of considerable girth, with lots of padding, and I can stick about anything in my belt, as long as it's not too long. Drawing that big cylinder past a belt is a consideration, but if you do carry it that low, you won't have much problem with retention. I have carried .38 and .357 revolvers that way without much problem, but that .44 is a good bit bigger. One of the things I did on my holsters, was bring the leather up above the cylinder, so that just the grip shows. That allows the inside of the holster to act as a kind of ramp, if that's the right word, that helps pull the cylinder passed the belt. Also letting the the gun ride with the cylinder below the belt will make less of a bulge right at your belt. You said that you had tried it in your jeans, for fit, and that is a good start in telling how it will carry. If you can, try carrying it around the house for a while and get an idea just how big a pain it will be. I also agree that putting leather between you and the gun is a good idea. One last thing, I like to leave the bottom of the holster a little longer than the barrel, so that it will bend and soften the line at the end. It will be less apt to rub on your leg and make a sore spot (experience). I carry some kind of gun concealed daily, and while I don't know all there is to know about holsters, I am rapidly learning what works for me, and that is what counts. Concealed carry holsters are a VERY personal item.

Good start on the holster. As far as the loop position, A J Concealco uses a very similar position on theirs, for pretty much the same reasons you stated. Good work, keep at it.

Hey, great looking holster, too bad it won't fit the intended gun. I know how annoying that is. I have been using my PC lately to capture photos from the internet, from catalogs, or other sources. The info, usually includes the overall length, or some other dimension that I can identify. I then use Photoshop Elements or other photo program to enlarge the photo and use the rulers on screen until I get that dimension right. Then, I print out a full sized print, and I at least have everything but the width dimensions. It's not perfect, but it helps keep me out of trouble, at least some times. John

Nah, I've sold my first holster, I must know it all now! Seriously, I worked in electronics and computer maint., and the one thing I learned is, If you ever stop asking questions, and stop learning, you will get left behind in the dust. I enjoy reading the post of other people who ask questions. I learn more from them than I do from some of my own questions. Some time we don't know what we need to ask, and reading someone else questions, turns on the light! I have noticed that several of you who are doing this for a business, still have questions for others. Thanks Srigs, and all. John

Well, I have delivered the holster to it's new owner, and after using it a while, he is happy with it. At least, his gun hasn't fallen out of it. I guess I'll go ahead and make a few and try to sell them through a friend's shop. I'll keep my fingers crossed and see how that goes. I'll try to get more pictures as things progress. John

I'm not sure, but I think what the other posters are concerned about the boning around the trigger, is during re-holstering, it might try to pull the trigger under just the right circumstances. Worries me a little too. Other wise it is a very good first holster. John

You can buy paddles from Eagle industries, for their G-Code holsters, and they can be adapted to your holster design. They bolt on with two screws, and are made from Kydex. Here is a link:Eagle G-code holsters For the type holster you have in mind, I would use 8-9 oz leather. Good luck in building your first holster. It can be a lot of fun, and the best way to learn is by doing it. You should get a lot more comments and helpful info here. John

I like the holster and clip pouch both. I really like the faux gator trim a lot. As for the clip on the holster, I have a problem with that type clip on holsters I've tried. May be the way I'm built, wide, but they tend to flop around on me with anything but a very small gun. I found some clips on Knife Kits.com, I haven't had a chance to try them out yet, but they look like they are wider, and may work better. Here is a link to the page: Knifekits.com I intend to get some soon. John

I always use ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL, straight from the bottle, which is about 60% alcohol, to do all my molding, as it seems to make the leather a tad harder, and since I don't have any blue guns, I don't have to worry that I will rust my gun. Also it drys much faster than water, like Shorts said. Maybe, that is why I have not had much trouble wit the dye spotting. Thats is a great looking holster, by the way. John