dickf

I'd also add that since you have zero firearms experience, you are definitely not qualified to build a product that is meant to carry loaded guns, which are inherently dangerous. This is not an insult, but please know that you're dealing with things that when improperly constructed, could take the life of the user and people in or around their general vicinity. Again, this is not a bash on your ability in leather or your ability to learn. Take a firearms safety course, hit the range with a friend, get somewhat familiar with guns in general. Then think about holsters.

I'll also do lining on request, but will use cow, not suede. There are no cons to a cowhide lining, and in my experience, only benefits.

You bet! Beveling the mouth is advisable, as well.

Really nice looking holster. If you beveled the inside of the muzzle, you wouldn't get that sharp inner edge when you burnished it. Nice job!

Blueguns fit in a flat rate box for $5, FYI.

I mean the acrylic has penetrated the leather, and any attempt to strip it will be removing it from the surface only. You can get it off, but re-dying likely wont be even, and re-sealing will be isolated mostly to the surface. At least, this is my experience in this realm, your mileage may vary.

Acetone will strip it off, but the holster will never be the same.

I'd also be down.

No problem, and this is working properly now.

I think I have this sorted (we'll see when someone posts in a followed forum or topic...) When the new software was installed, it either wiped out my old settings, or added new ways to accomplish things and thus my old settings were no longer applicable. In My Settings > Notification Options, all of the boxes were unchecked except for the last (Notify on post quoted). I checked the ones at the top for notify via email for subscribed posts/topics and saved. Hopefully this fixes things.

I'm using all dye at full strength via dipping. As soon as the panel is wet, it's out of the dye. This is W&C brown

I'm on a phone, so I'll cut to the chase - understand I'm not being short. Your dye - try dipping in Angelus. Ive used both, there's honestly no comparison. Dip dye equals even color every time. Same with Lincoln brand, it's excellent. I think you're in Ohio, PM me - I'm in cincy, I'll give you some local contacts. Your process - one cannot judge the final product after dipping in dye. You must take it through the entire process, as splotches will often go away after molding and topcoat. Your leather - could be the HO, but I think it has more to do wityh product vs leather. I've dipped HO plenty if times with consistent results. But, since you asked.... This is W&C skirting in chestnut. The lighting plays a huge role as both of the holsters were exactly the same color off camera. (Don't poke fun at them, they're old!) Drum dyed is awesome. I can't afford to stock all the weights I use in all the colors I offer, or else that's the route I'd take. Saves loads of time (which = $$), too. Hope this helps!

PM sent on 2/28. I'll post back with any info.

I agree that if you want the fastest, most consistent black, drum dyed is the clear winner. If you want to dye yourself, a quick dip in Angelus black will yield these results. **edit - my bad, this one was Lincoln black, but Angelus is just as nice.

Wednesday bump. Anybody out there in adminland?

Monday bump.

Since the last upgrade of this software, I no longer receive notifications on subscribed threads or subscribed sub forums. I do, however, get notifications on PM and when someone quotes one of my posts. My settings look to be correct. Ideas? Thanks.

You're absolutely right. And as pointed out, that is the beauty of the craft. I'm still not sure of the reason behind your defensive attitude. Nobody was slamming you or your work. Every comment given to you was intended to be helpful in nature. You will, without debate, have an easier time cutting, molding, and stitching your leather if you lighten its' weight. You will not sacrifice quality or its current retention abilities. 'Ask me how I know' was meant to imply that I had my own tensioning demons and fought many nights against my machine to get the tension and timing right. Lots of wasted time and materials in the shop. Because you were turning out finished holsters, I didn't think you knew it was off. Good luck to you. PS I'm not a 30-40 year veteran. I wouldn't even consider myself a veteran. But, something was said to me on this forum by a veteran holstermaker, though, and it's always stuck with me. I carry the idea around with me on this board when I look at stuff people build, and I think it's good philosophy for any holstermaker, new or old. I've never forgotten this (or deleted it from my PM's), and I try to remember it with every finished build and every piece of advice I give. Just my (last) 2¢. Chris

It's called experience. You're welcome. I'm not attacking you or anyone else here. I personally feel that if you lighten up on the weight, you would have: 1. An easier time cutting, molding, stitching, etc. 2. A tighter fitting holster which in turn would be a safer, more effective holster. 3. A more enjoyable experience because of the added flexibility/workability of the material. You're right - you're not building my patterns. The ONLY reason I even said anything was because when I first started making holsters, I bought all of my leather from a local Tandy store. I was told the first piece I bought was 6/7oz. It was. I was told another piece I bought was the same weight - it was 9/10oz. Subsequent purchases yielded the exact same experiences with differing weights. I know this now. I didn't know this then because I didn't have anything to fall back on to judge them. I still have scrap pieces that I made IWB holsters from that I now know to be 10oz leather! Far too heavy and thick for that type of holster. Measure it with a caliber. If it's 0.125" (+/- 0.007 depending on the split) or around there, I'll retract everything I said about the thickness. I know they're not lined; that's clear from your photos. Remember, 8oz == 0.125" My estimate from the image looks to be about 0.1875", which is 12oz. Good luck I'm in the shop anyway, so here's a photo for reference. Most of my IWB's are built from 7/8oz leather. P.S. The tension is off on your machine. Ask me how I know...

Surely you're not suggesting that making several items at once dictates proper construction? Those holsters aren't tightly molded to the gun (nor were they designed to fit a specific weapon). The leather is too heavy. If they were western or period holsters, I'd say it would matter less. Other than quantity, what else in those photos makes you think it's the appropriate weight?

I agree with the lizard - that's not 8 oz leather, more like 12. Way too heavy for your application.

Looks great - the low detail on the mold makes it look classic and the color is really pretty. You've come a far way in a short amount of time. Good for you!

Very smooth work and the stitch line is spot-on. Well done!

Really pretty holster! I love the depth that dip-dying yields and your holster is a perfect example of it. Those P2000's have a jacked up trigger guard, don't they?

Ding ding ding!!! We have a winner!