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Squared away - thanks, Sixer!

Guys, I need about 10 complete pull the dots (all 4 pieces) in hard-action Government black finish (with the longer post). If anyone wouldn't mind selling me 10 of these, I'd appreciate it. Please PM if you can help - I'm waiting on an order from DOT that is going to be delayed. Thanks! Chris

My suggestion would be to really look at the pattern for each one and make sure it fits the gun it's intended for. It seems like the same pattern was used for each model and there are a few issues with them that can be easily rectified with some tailoring to the pattern. As pointed out by Katsass, the M&P is the best of the bunch. It has the best stitch line and it has the best spaced slots. I completely agree that the stitch line is where your attention needs to be. You'll probably have to make multiple prototypes to get it just right, but it will be worth it in the end. The forward slot on the other two are way too far back toward the slide stitch line. When the holster is worn, the wings are going to want to bend back and conform to the curve of the user. With the slot put under the stitch line of the slide, the forward wing will not have the opportunity to bend back and will create a pinch point. The Glock holster shows this more than the Shield, which makes me think the same pattern was used for all 3 with the Glock being crafted last. I'm not sure why you would rely on Glock's website measurements when you have the gun/mold in your hands, but, perhaps you didn't have the mold when you were drawing up that pattern to measure yourself (which still wouldn't make much sense). Be sure to use a straightedge when drawing straight lines on your patterns and when possible, on the leather itself. Also like Katsass, I make prototype holsters for new patterns (I think this is very necessary), but I don't use belly leather. My experience is that the belly stretches too much and doesn't compare to using quality back or shoulder leather. What fits perfectly right in a holster made of belly will not fit in a holster made of proper materials. My advice would be to use parts of the hide that are blemished or have a nappy/fleshy back but are otherwise of the same density and thickness and you'll have something comparable in the end. It looks like the leather was really wet when you started molding. For me, molding is one of the best parts of the build. It's easy to get carried away and usually, what's done is done with it. If you ease off the water a bit and let the leather case, you'll get a really nice mold on the inside and the outside will be buttery under your tools. This will also eliminate any drag you might experience with your tools when molding. (You didn't mention this, but I thought I'd throw it out there.) Your pattern reminds me of Horseshoe's ML holster, minus the tunnel loops (http://www.holsters....ide-holster.htm). That's a wonderful little holster and I have used mine quite a bit. I think it's underrated because it seems so simple, but when done well, is very comfortable and fast. Mine was made for a Govt 1911, and even with the muzzle exposed, doesn't hang up. It hugs really tight and is very effective. Chris

I actually just scored a Press-n-snap off ebay for about $50 less than I would have bought new. I've set some Line 24 snaps and some sample Pull The Dots, and you're right - perfect snaps each and every time. I wish I would have bought this thing years ago! I called the folks who make the Press-n-snap and the DOT people. The dimples are a result of using dies from DOT and are not available for the Press-n-snap tool. Hoover, the maker of the tool, suggested aligning the word 'Dot' on the snap cap with the direction to pull. That is, to use the word to indicate where to pull. The most inexpensive setter option to create the dimple and using Scovill's dies is like $200-something. I think using the word is a viable option at this point and is what I'll do. Anyway, thanks for the info!

I'd start with this edit to your pattern. Yes, you should do it again...and again...until it's right. No, you should not sell or attempt to sell things you know are sub-par and could be potentially dangerous to the end-user. If your standards are high, so will be the quality of your work. Good luck!

I have the standard chiefs special bluegun. I'd sell it to you if you're interested. I don't do revolver leather like I do autos. PM if you want it.

To be perfectly honest, I totally disagree. The customer seeking custom gunleather may not know a whole lot of difference between mediocre from good, but they know good vs. great. If they dont, their buddy will and he won't hesitate to inform his friend.. Properly dressed edges are not only visually appealing, but are a sign of quality. They indicate the maker put in time to make sure they're rounded, waxed, and smooth so the holster lasts and performs. Your customer/end user is not the only one who will evaluate the holster simply based on aesthetics. Any successful and knowledgable holster maker will have a proper edge on their gear. I'm not saying that you don't share this philosophy, I'm just saying my experience reflects that the customer notices more than you might think. Crossbreed was never interested in the leather. They came on the market for $50 with a 7 day turnaround time. You knew what you were buying was plastic fastened to a non molded piece of leather backing, and folks were okay with that. They filled the niche for cheap and fast (successfully, too I might add).

Hey Paul! Sure dont! It doesn't bleed, period. Maybe it's time for a dip dye video...

I think you have to get the big-boy setter and dies from DOT. How do you like the the pres-n-snap?

It's full strength. I fully submerge the leather of my holsters/carriers in the dye and pull them right out. I don't let them sit in it. They're out of the bath as soon as they're wet. As you said, the airbrush is very even (that's why I bought one in 2009 to use solely for dye), but is merely painting dye on the very surface. There's not a whole lot of penetration, so scuffs and scratches will show through easier than on leather dip-dyed. Side note: I'm currently experimenting with yet another brand of dye along the same line as Angelus. Oddly, I don't think I've ever seen it mentioned in this forum. I'll post results after I've collected them.

I use the Jet Black. It penetrates well, is evenly toned, and there's very little buffing required. I've never had any of the Angelus dye bleed off on thread or clothing. Their cordovan dye is really pretty, too. A single dip and you have the perfect even tone. Doesn't get much easier than that!

Update: I called the manufacturer and several other places and nobody seems to know of a die to fit the pres n snap that will dimple the cap. Oh well!

I should refine my question, I think. Is there a PTD die that puts the dimple in the cap for the Press-N-Snap tool? I think this is the route I'm going to take. Thanks!

I'd like to know what the options are for setting these quickly and reliably AND making the dimple in the cap. Prices and places to buy would earn an extra gold star. Thank you!

Your 1911 holster looks great! The tooling is classy and the 2-tone look is very nice. If I had to nitpick, I'd say bring that dustcover stitch down by 1. Great as usual, though. The revolver holster is kind of oddly shaped, and I agree with what's been said; it doesn't look like your normal designs. It looks like it rides awfully high and I would abbreviate the mouthband. I think it's a tad large. I think it would look better if it came past the edge of the cylinder on the trigger side and stop. The bright white thread looks great, though. White thread is my favorite to use and always sets off the piece. When are you gonna quit using the Fiebings dye and use Angelus? You won't have any discolored thread once you do...

Not sure if you know this, but the style loops you're using were developed by Matt Del Fatti and have 2 attachment points, actually. The offset screw uses a blind post that goes through both layers of leather, and the stud portion of the snap has a screw that threads into a tee nut that's sandwiched between the leather. The 2 points eliminate the strap's ability to rotate. Neat, huh?

A lot of people disagree with me, but my advice is to use the proper mold for each holster you make. My first choice if you absolutely don't want to buy the dummy would be your friend with the G26. Still, the mold for the gun will run you around $45 or so and is popular enough to warrant the purchase, but you already know that. Make your holsters fit precisely the gun they were intended for. There's no place for shortcuts in quality gunleather, especially when talking about the weapon itself. My $.02, though. Edited to add that if you got a mold for each holster, you didn't break even.

THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! Works great.

Just like Josh, I use 1" on top and bottom with a 12 ton. I know exactly what you're talking about and it's a result of too much pressure combined with too much moisture in the leather. Ease off both a bit and it will go away.

Thanks for the suggestions, Jimbob. The stitches are set at 5 spi, which I believe to be about the industry standard. I'm pretty happy with their spacing. I think the slots have more meat than it appears from the photo above. Here's a photo of the same holster before I let it's sides bend back to normal. It's 9oz leather, so it's built pretty heavy. Either way, red thread sounds pretty neat! Thanks for looking! Chris

Two opposite ends of the spectrum, but fun holsters to make, each with their own little challenges. This is a set of 3 Glock 22 IWB holsters in cordovan with black thread. This is probably my most popular color combo, and I grow more fond of it each time I make it. The G22 is a big gun to carry concealed, but these holsters make it happen pretty easily. Next up is a pancake holster for a Browning Hi Power. Black leather with white thread is classic, in my opinion, and really looks sharp. This is the first holster I've ever made for a Hi Power, and they're just as fun (if not more) than the 1911 holsters. The fit and function of this holster is excellent. Thanks for looking! As always, C&C is welcomed. Chris

Thanks guys. @TwinOaks - I'm dipping my gear in Angelus 600. I like the gloss finish. It looks nice and is very durable. @lizard - Yes, the shark came from Springfield. You should call and talk to Kevin - they often have things that aren't on the website.

It's dye. I don't use edge coat unless it's called for on very rare occasions. Even then, it's always the brown.

I used it full strength straight from the bottle, just like I do with all dyes and finishes.