Chief31794

Glen, This post was so old, I forgot that I had done it. However, I forget lots of things these days. This was made with 4-5 oz and I usually ask SLC to keep it closer to 4 than 5. I measured it out with space for stitching, dampened it, stamped the design, let it dry, dyed it, finished it, then sewed with a Tippman Boss, then redampened it just enough to allow it to mold, inserted the burnisher, let it dry and put it on the bench. Either side of the cover will come off, I normally hold one, squeeze the sides of the other slightly and it slips off. I leave one side on as a handle. Chief

Yes, those holes are large enough, you want the holes a little tight. I tried the multiple hole punches and didn't like them because the tubes weren't very tight and had a tendancy to wobble and not stay straight. I would experiment on some scrap to get the feeling of how the tool works and to determine if you like the results. Additionally, I prefer the slits made with a thonging chisel if I'm doing the double loop lacing technique, I try not to use holes unless I'm doing Round Braid or Mexican Basetweave (another name for Round Braid), although the slits can be used for that technique as well. Chief Chief

Really nice job. Chief

Thanks Sherlockian Thanks a lot David Thanks Ran, I appreciate the nice comments. Thanks LNLeather. I appreciate all the nice comments from everyone. Chief

Got an order for this Friday Night at a local craft fair. Just got it done. Hadn't posted anything in a while, so here tis'.

I use both, I don't see any difference in the cuts. I use a very good quality knife and buy blades (serrated) in the 50 packs. One trick I learned over the years, when I turn the blade around I use a sharpie and mark an X on the used end, that way (with my memory) I don't have to try to remember whether I've already turned it or not. One other thing I do when I cut regardless of which knife I use is I dampen the leather with a sponge and let dry slightly (not wet, just damp). That makes the cuts seem to go smoother and yields a cleaner edge. Last trick is if you use a razor knife and you have curves to cut, I normally cut the curved lines with a swivel knife to provide a nice flowing "groove" to follow with the razor knife. Just me, but that's the way I do it. Round knife works well however, it does require maintenance. Chief

On OA I use 1 tablespoon to 1 Pint of water. Not sure if that's right, but it's what I use. Chief

That looks to have been done traditionally. Dye a base color let dry 8 hours or more, Buff lightly, coat with Clear Lac (replaced Neat Lac) let dry for at least 8 hours, over night on both the dye and the neat lac if you have the time, then apply the fiebings paste (preferred) or the gel (if that's what you want or have to use) and work it in, wipe off any excess and let dry. Then buff well, apply the finish of your choice, i usually use clear lac, very light coats and buffing in between. I could be wrong, about how this was done, that's happened before. The dying could have been dipped or airbrushed, I suspect dip dyed. Again, I've been wrong before. Chief

One note, I did that at the request of Bluesman1951 who was trying very hard to help this guy out. Chief

Rylo, Grumps advise is excellent, one thing you asked in your list (Scratch Awl, I can punch stitching holes?) the answer is maybe but I wouldn't recommend it. You will want an Awl, a scratch awl is round and used primarily for marking on leather, an Awl is diamond shaped, very sharp and used for making stitching holes when hand sewing. It's not the only way to make the holes, but it is the one preferred by hand stitching purists. Chief

I use the Gel a lot, I have the paste as well but I use that more for real antiquing (when you use a resist like Clear Lac and then apply the paste), that works with the Gel as well but not as well as the paste. I use the gel to achieve coloring and antiquing (highlighting), for that it does a great job. I let it dry at least 3-4 hours, better if over night, you want to make sure all the gel has dried down in all the depressions. One note, you want to wipe it vigorously with a soft cloth immediately to remove most of the antiquing agent from the smooth surfaces of the leather, depending on the look I'm after, I will wipe it with a damp cloth being careful not to get it so wet that it removes the antique from the depressions. If the depressions get "cleaned" you can always resist the whole piece with clear lac and then apply the paste to darken the depressions or reuse the same gel after the resist and it will only darken the depressions after you wipe it. Chief

I always buy Grade B from SLC and it is beautiful, The only blemishes I've ever noticed is the clip marks around the edges where it was tanned. I would estimate that at worst you might lose 5-7% due to waste and if you plan your cuts well, you would have lost that anyway or more. I think you'll be very happy with Grade B. Chief

I just spoke to Barry, he was out last week. He remembers the gentleman from Germany and said that he returned the email about a week ago and perhaps it got lost in hyperspace. Anyway, he said that shipping to German is normally about $35.00, and that if he pays via paypal, the site automatically calculates the shipping. You could always enter the order, check the shipping and just not confirm the order if you aren't okay with the shipping cost. He answers the phone at 307-672-5657 and is there now. Chief

Springfield Leather Company, they have some tooling pigskin which is natural color and you would be able to dye it to the color you're looking for. Call them and tell them what you want, what you're doing and they are very helpful with suggestions. Chief

Brundelfly, Without seeing it live it's hard to tell. It looks to me like Pigskin Lining dyed that color. Pigskin is about 2oz leather (1/32" Thick) and has that texture. Perhaps someone will know more about it than I. Chief

I've heard the same thing about isopropyl alcohol, just make sure it is actually isopropyl alcohol and not rubbing alcohol. Rubbing Alcohol sometimes has Isopropyl Alcohol on the label, however, it is anywhere from 70% (Most Often) to 92% Isopropyl Alcohol and the remainder is water. Chief

Good job, I really like it. One note, I would take a 00 punch and end the slits on the attachment holes, that prevents them from splitting farther as the strap is used and put on and off several time. Have the slit end in the two holes, large one which you have at the bottom and a very small one at the top to act as a stop. Chief

I'm not much on sun tanning, I've seen it done and have done it on occasion, but I would use Fiebings Dye in Tan and cut it with Denatured Alchohol, till I got the tint I wanted. I cut some of them as much as 10 Alchohol to 1 Part Dye. I would start with a 2:1 ratio in a small quantity and try it on some scrap. I would finish these boots with Aussie Conditioner, it is a water repellent finish made from a base of beeswax, I put it on with a cloth and you can see it on the leather then I heat the finish with a blow dryer that I keep in the shop for various reasons (none to do with my hair since I don't have any). You will see the finish liquify, I then rub and buff it lightly to insure it doesn't "cake up", then when is is cool and dry, I buff it normally to achieve a sheen. This is a very good finish for outdoor use equipment. I'm sure other folks have different ways of doing things, this is how I would tackle it. Cheif

Sharpening is more of an art than a science, you must maintain the same angle every stroke or you're just working against yourself. I would take it to a machine shop or someone who sharpens blades if you're having that much trouble and have them put a good edge on it, then use a strop often, always pulling the blade away from the edge when using a strop. Additionally, I would invest in a Dead Blow mallet at about 2-3 pounds, I always use dead blow to hit punches as the nature of a dead blow is to put all the force on the work piece due to being loaded with small shot. With a sharp strike from a 2lb mallet and a relatively sharp blade, it should cut through 5/6 oz leather pretty easily. Chief

The stuff I get is about 15 or 20 sheets for $1.00 at the Dollar Tree, it is very thin but protects the leather from the plastic, works well for me and isn't that expensive. Chief

I wrap the item in tissue paper that I get from the dollar tree that is used for wrapping presents, then I wrap it in bubble wrap and away it goes. Chief

I checked with our local manager and he said that they had discontinued the "free tool per month" some time ago. The deals and bargains you get are what comes in the flyers. What is little know is that each Tandy Manager has the ability to discount an item as a "Manager's Special", my guy works with me and usually gives me at least one each trip. You can't get them with Web Orders but you can in the store, depending on the store manager. Chief

I always find deals like that, right after somebody else has bought it. I'm with you Mike, if it took good luck to get around the world, I couldn't get out of sight. Chief

I go to Tandy in DFW, Jacksonville, and Atlanta on a fairly frequent basis, I used them for years, but I will not buy any leather from them until they start using a quality tannery. I'm a little astounded that the quality of the leather I see at Tandy could even be compared to Hermann Oak, and I buy HO for about what Tandy wants for the stuff they have. Additionally, I run a small shop and don't always need a complete side or shoulder, I can buy HO from SLC in 2 Sq Ft increments. I buy 4/5 oz and 5/6 oz as complete sides but when I need a different weight leather I buy just what I need of a very high quality leather. I also have a busniess license and a tax ID, so I pay wholesale at both places and no taxes. I am a big fan of Tandy, because a lot of people wouldn't be in leather working without them, but I just can't or won't use their leather. Just my opinion, Chief

Skwerl, sorry you're having trouble, I think you will find that your order is being processed and you'll get it. You didn't indicate where you are, if you're over seas it could take some time to get them to you. I've bought tools from Barry King for years and he doesn't communicate well, I'll agree but he does deliver and it is very high quality merchandise. I placed an order around the same time, not sure of the date, as I said above and the tools were delivered within 5 days, I think it was more like 3. I would call on Monday, they probably won't be in today or this weekend because of Thanksgiving, but they should be back to work on Monday and they are in the Mountain Time Zone as noted above. Chief