Chief31794

Skwerl, sorry you're having trouble, I think you will find that your order is being processed and you'll get it. You didn't indicate where you are, if you're over seas it could take some time to get them to you. I've bought tools from Barry King for years and he doesn't communicate well, I'll agree but he does deliver and it is very high quality merchandise. I placed an order around the same time, not sure of the date, as I said above and the tools were delivered within 5 days, I think it was more like 3. I would call on Monday, they probably won't be in today or this weekend because of Thanksgiving, but they should be back to work on Monday and they are in the Mountain Time Zone as noted above. Chief

I agree with Bluesman, this slipped by way too long, sorry. As I understand it, you want to make belts and are looking for a short list of tools for that purpose. I'll post one and if I miss anything maybe someone will chime in with the remainder. If you are going to buy leather and cut your own belts, then you'll need a strap cutter, alternatively you can buy straps already split to 1-1/2" or whatever and eliminate the necessity for a strap cutter. Here's the short list: Safety Beveler (used to skive the buckle end of the belt) Razor Knife (good quality) hole punch set (mini set would suffice at first with the replaceable punches, they're sold at Tandy and SLC, etc) Edge Beveler (good quality, and learn how to strop it and sharpen it when it needs it), If I only had 1 it would be a No. 3 Edge Slicker (I wouldn't get the plastic one but for an inexpensive way to go, the wooden ones that Tandy sells with multiple grooves are pretty good) Sand Paper (I would get 120 grit for the back and edges) Ruler (Best to get steel with a cork back) Tape Measurer Additional Items, not necessary but useful: Oblong Punch (Good Quality don't skimp here, I like the CS Osborne ones) - 1-1/4" is pretty standard Edge Creaser Strap End Punch (I would buy the larger pointed one or Round one your choice, but get it oversized and learn to center it and make it even to cut all sizes adequately) You will need either Line 24 snaps or chicago screws to install on the buckle end unless you want to sew them permanent, then you will need harness needles and waxed thread. If you use snaps, you will need a snap setter and anvil set and some patience to learn how to use them. Then decide if you are going to carve designs on the belts or tool them with decorative stamps, if you are going to carve then you need: Swivel Knife Bevelers, smooth and checkered in tiny, small and medium at least Camoflage Tools, small (belt designs aren't very big and they are tough to carve well because of their size) Veiners, small fluted and what we call a wiggler. Pear Shader, small and medium Background tool of your choice Probably a mules foot and some stops depending on your carving style (these are mostly used in western floral or sheridan) If you want to tool designs then: Border Stamps Basket Weave Stamp Veiner (they make good borders) As for books there is a book on belt stamping: Tandy and SLC carry a couple of books, "Belts Galore", "Lucky 8", etc the Lucky Eight is misleading in that it contains over 50 designs used on belts. Hope this helps and welcome to the site. Chief

Sorry, They use a lifter, there are a couple of different types, there is a deerfoot lifter which comes as on a stylus handle in two sizes like a modeling tool, but the better way is with a petal lifter, I have two different sizes from Barry King, the are also called "undercut" bevelers at times. The tool is worked under the edge of the petal or leaf and then tilted to raise the edge of the carving. Chief

These come in different sizes, a small one was probably used to fit under the leaf lifts and then he remainder was pebbled using the bigger one. At least that's the way I would do it. Chief

Mike, Water damage is a tough one, I've never been totally successful, maybe someone else will chime in. What I normally do (and it reduces the visual effect of the water damage as well as helps the leather) is clean the entire piece with saddle soap, actually scrubbing with a sponge, then condition the piece by applying a light coat of neetsfoot oil, letting dry (that replaces some of the natural oil lost over time), then condition with a good leather conditioner, like leather balm. It doesn't correct it but it does help the looks and the leather. Maybe someone else will have some better ideas. Good Luck, Chief

I assume the dark brown was Fiebings, if so, then yes, I would dye, let dry completely, lightly oil (very lightly) to restore natural oils to the leather, let dry completely, then finish with your finish of choice, I normally use Clear Lac in 1 or 2 light coats but resolene works as well. The strap you have can be softened by gently rolling it end to end to relax the leather, but neetsfoot oil or some equivalent, is normally used to replace natural oils that are removed when dying with Spirit Dyes. Not as bad with oil based dyes or water based dyes. Just my opinion, perhaps others will chime in with other ideas. Chief

Agree, you will probably eventually use all the tools if you stay with it. However, it may be years before you use them all. If you priced it individually it would be higher, but you probably don't need it all at once. On Slabs, Springfield has it in their bargains this month for $15.00, that's a pretty good buy. However, if you have a funeral stone shop near you, you can probably pick up a nice peice or marble or granite for nothing or very little. I agree with Sylvia that the deluxe kit is a better deal and it's on sale at Tandy now, you might think about getting a gold or elite membership as well, that will save you quite a bit, the kit is on sale right now for $129.00 and if you are elite it is $79.00, not sure how much Gold price is because my web site only shows me retail and the elite price since I have a business membership. Gold should be somewhere in the $109.00 range I would think but not sure. If I were starting out today, I would take some classes, find what I like to do, get guidance from the instructors on what to get and go with only what I need. If you feel compelled to get a starter kit the deluxe on sale now is my recommendation. Chief

Weaver is an excellent supplier of hardware, another alternative is Ohio Bag and Travel. Both provide quality hardware although I think Weaver may have some of the higher quality stuff (particularly buckles which you said you weren't too interested in). Chief

Excellent work, very nice job on the double loop lacing. Chief

I bought two checkered bevelers and a basket weave a couple of weeks ago, there were no problems then. Like they said above, he may be closed for the holdiays. Also make sure you're calculating the time zones right, he is in Wyoming which I think is on Pacific time or at least Mountain time. Chief

No Problem, hope it was clear, it's harder to explain than it is to do. Chief

To go around the corner on round braid, follow the directions below. This isn't the only way to do it but it is the standard. hole next to the corner - go in normally and come out normally. (1 time in) corner hole - go in normally and come out to the normal hole. (1st time in) corner hole - go in the corner again and come out to the hole before the corner (2nd time in corner, 2nd time in hole next to corner) hole after corner - go in the hole after the corner and come out to the hole before the corner (normal*, 1st time in hole after, 3rd time in hole befor) hole after corner - go back in the hole after the corner and come out to corner hole (2nd time in hole after, 3rd time in corner hole) move to the next hole (2 holes from corner), go in 2nd hole from corner and come out to corner hole. (Beginning normal stitching again, 4th time in corner) move to the next hole (3 holes from corner), go in 3rd hole from corner and come out to hole after corner. (3rd time in hole after corner) continue stitching normally. This gives you 3 laces in the holes before and after the corner and 4 laces in the corner. That walks the lace around. I have a video on Round Braid/Mexican Basket Weave on Youtube, going around the corner is discussed in volume 2 of that series. Here is a link to the video, maybe it will help. It isn't difficult and will become 2nd nature once you've done it a time or two. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0P4pt_8ntM&feature=plcp Chief

The ones I use for dying or applying finish if I use them for that - No. Buffing dry dye and finishes, yes but not for an extraordinarily long time, once they look a little "soiled", I toss em, I buy a garbage bag full for $19.00 and that makes them pretty inexpensive. Chief

I think it's beautiful. Excellent job. Chief

Aurelie, There are no stupid questions. Sometimes there can be stupid answers, but that's the way it is. There are no absolutes, but here is what I use. Guitar Straps typically come in one of two widths (there are exceptions), 2-1/2" the most popular and 3". Guitar Straps typically are adjustable from about 44" to 52", If I have a very large or very small customer I will adjust a little. Most Guitars have two pins one on the rear and one over or under the neck depending on the type of guitar (A few Accoustics don't have a front pin, and the strap can be attached with leather cord or braided cord, just above the nut under the strings, still same length on average). Some guitarists use Strap Locks and if that's what they are going to use, then you can custom make the holes to accomodate although Strap Locks will work with a normal 1/4" hole. One other difference is that some pickups on accoustics have a rear pin that the cord plugs into and that requires a larger button, so the hole will have to be more like 3/8" to fit well. the holes for pins are "Keyhole" type holes with, normally, a 1/4" hole and then a 3/4-1" slit ending in a size 00 hole to prevent splitting. Hope this helps, Chief

I use sheepskin scraps, called Stoney Short Wool. I buy them from a Jacket Manufacturing Company. They come average a little larger than your hand and I cut them into sheepskin pads for dying and for buffing after finishing. Chief

Welcome aboard Jon. I'm in Tifton not too far away. Chief

I cover it with a small patch of very light leather lining. On some cases I line the main case by making the case from 2/3oz Hermann Oak and lining it with the same material. I glue the lining to the case after installing the snap on the case (not the one that has the dome, the bottom one), and after sewing the belt loop so that the back of the snap and the stitches are hidden between the leathers. These two didn't have liners so they have a small patch glued over the snap base only. Chief

I make unlined rifle slings and lately lots of folks are asking for padded rifle slings. I could put some padding beneath a liner and sew it in or I could sew padding material to the sling (like shearling?), does anyone do this and if so, what have you found to be the best type of material and do you glue and sew it into a lining or glue and sew a padding material to the underside of the strap? Thanks in advance, Chief

I don't do a lot of stitching, I punch lacing slits in both the outer and the inner and then lace them together. They are complete and assembled really nice so I would think that for a purse you would just sew it to the shell and finish the edges. Maybe someone else will chime in. This is one of the wallets I made with Chaylor-Fenelli interiors. Chief

I make wallets using their interiors, they are an excellent product. I use Hermann Oak for the exterior. I haven't done one of the purses, but I make a saddle bag type purse and that would definitely be Veg Tan. I also make some clutch purses and those would be HO Veg Tan, for a purse you have a choice, you could use Veg Tan or you could use some of the garment leathers depending on the look you want. Chief

Sorry to hear that, hope you heal up well and soon. Good time to go back and review some books, find new patterns, etc. Get Well Soon!!! Chief

Thanks, I try to stay busy, I'm retired and if I ain't fishin', I'm in the shop, even if it's just setting there cleaning tools and watching TV. Chief

I've always used smiths honing oil, but as stated, probably any oil will do. I use this on Arkansas stones, on my diamond stones I use soapy water. Chief

Looks good. Chief