Justis Cases

I agree with everything you said except I cut mine a BCH smaller than the buckle....The RCH makes it too loose.....

Try using the correct tool for the job..... I recommed this one.

BEWARE OF DOING BUSINESS WITH RICHARD SWAN http://AztecanLeather.brinkster.net AFTER PLACING AN ORDER ON OCT 30, AND WIRING PAYMENT IN FULL TO RICHARD SWAN, THE ORDER IS UNFILLED. HIS ALIBI IS THAT HE HAS CANCER AND IS DYING. HE KNEW THIS WHEN HE TOOK THE ORDER SO IN MY BOOK THAT MAKES HIM A SCAM ARTIST. I HAVE WESTERN UNION RECEIPTS AND EMAILS TO BACK UP MY STATEMENTS.

Roger is not only talented on motorcycle seats but did an excellent job for me on one of my cue cases. He was in constant contact during the process and it could not have gone smoother. I look forward to working with Roger on future projects. Great job, Roger, my customer is 100% satisfied! Jack Justis Justis Cases

Hi Roger, Are you sure you were not using the water based Weldwood in the green can? I can assure you the original formula, not the gel, is as water proof as Barge. As far as thickening, I found the Barge to be considerable thicker than Weldwood. Thickening occures every time you take the lid off so I usually end up throwing out the last few ounces of a 1 quart can. I don't recommend thinning.

This is just my opinion but after using contact cement on a daily basis for the past 18 years Barge is no better in any fashion than Weldwood from Home Depot at about 1/3 of the cost. Try it and if you tell me its not as good as Barge, I will send you a check for for the cost. This is how confident I am of the WeldWood product.

That is wild.....

Use the Fiebings Pro-Oil Dye and you will like it much better than the spirit dye. Or better yet the antique dye, not the antique finish, and your problem will be eleminated altogether.

Hi Johanna, Thanks for posting your comments.....if I were you, I wouldn't worry to much about "the experts" since they rarely agree on anything. Some prefer puddin, some perfer ice cream and you'll never change their opinions. Experts usually do not buy my cases....my customers are the ones that see what they like an makes the decision to buy on the spot. Its interesting to see so many different opinions though and I will say it will have no affect whatsoever on who I choose to do the Sheridan style carving on my cases. There are a lot of excellent carvers and like someone said earlier....its boils down to whether I can afford them or not. Keep the comments coming....I am sitting up and taking notes!

Hey guys and gals, Doesn't anyone out there have any opinions on the photos that were submitted? You certainly don't have to be an expert to voice your personal opinion. I only received a couple comments via private message but in my opinion should have been posted for everyone to see.

Mr. Johnson, I agree 100% with your thoughts about how the Sheridan style of carving has evolved and will continue to get better and better as times goes on. Competition gets the juices flowing and pushes oneself to experiment with and improve on timeless designs to come up with their own style of carving. I built custom fishing rods for 18 years and many of my decorative wraps and techniques are listed in "CUSTOM ROD THREAD ART" by Dale Clemens. When I see these same wraps being copied by other craftsman, it it the highest form of flattery to think they like my work enough to copy it. The same thing applies to just about any craft. Without sharing information and learning from others, your work can become stagnet in a hurry. Below is an example of several wraps done only with size A silk, one thread at a time.

The photos below shows 2 well known artist work. Do you have a preference and if so can you explain what you like and don't like.

I use both depending on the case.

Hi Ed, Yes, I use only the solid brass Jiffy rivets from OTB. No one in the industry makes a better one that I have found. I ues over 20.000 per year and the quality is consistent. I think they are made in Belgium. The steel brass plated even tho much cheaper, will eventually lose the plating and become nickle in color. I have never used the double capped rivets as the post side does not show. Thanks for the kind words.

Hi Ed, I modified just about all the hammers I have by grinding a small radius on the head so that most of stricking surface is in the center of the head rather than around the edges. If you ever look at a cobblers hammer you will see the head has been radiused. This prevents leaving a marks on the leather. I like to see the post extend about 1/32" above the leather surface for a good fit. It probably can be a little plus or minus without any problem. The main thing is not to have the post too long. Once the rivet has been set, you certainly should not be able to turn the cap. If you're able to do this, your not stricking hard enough. Below are a couple hammers I use to set rivets if maintaining radius on the head is not important.

Hi Ed, Any old hammer will do the job if you just want to set the rivet, but to keep the radius on the cap you need to use the hand setting tool part #T1317 on page 2 of the latest OTB catalogue with a nice maul. I have used this method for 15 years on my cases.

Hi Clay, Well, I guess you do have to be a bit careful, but it can be done. Below pic is E.Sheridan tooled on 3 oz Wickett & Craig by a good friend of mine. Good quality packaging tape works much better than the cerial box.....try it sometime.

I've always maintained sewing my hand ............ Ouch! That would hurt.......no way to edit the spelling.... Yes there is! Posting is covered in "Help". I fixed it for you.~ Johanna

Most complaints that I hear about sewing machines are usually from individuals that are not one bit mechanically inclined or cannot read and understand the manual that accompanies the machine. Unless you have a fairly good eye, a slightly bent or burred needle point can drive you crazy with skipped stitches, funny noises, etc. Another thing is getting your upper and lower tension correct. You have to be able to look at the stitches closely to make sure the lock is as close to the center of the material as possible. Unless you have the eye for this, it can be frustrating. One small burr on the pick up hook can disable the best machine every made. You also need a good ear to detect changes in sound that will usually tell you in advance that something is about ready to blow. I would say without hesitation that 90% of complaints on sewing machines (manual or electric) are caused by operator error. If you plan on buying a sewing machine, make sure its from a reputable dealer with excellent service backup. When you buy from an individual, your usually on your own. I've always maintained sewing by hand is great only if you don't own a sewing machine. Mine is an old walking foot Juki LU-562.

I had a gentleman come up to my booth at one of the billiard shows and had a few samples of work he had done for several major league ball players. He said it was done with a woodburning tool and all he would need is a photo. Actually, he wanted to trade his services for one of my cases. I agreed and the case below is the one he did his work on. His name is Jim Williams and if I remember correctly he was from the mid west....Kansas I believe. I sent him a blank case finished with Resolene. I remember him calling me and complaining that the finish seemed to melt and hindered the detail. It looked OK to me but you know how these artist are. LOL

I just checked and my knife is hollow ground on the primary and flat ground on the edge.(see pic. below) Thanks for the lesson.

Very interesting.....I have a couple custom made automatic Dills and try not to use them for fear of nicking or dulling the blades. From your description, I think they would be hollow ground.

The stamped areas and the lines are the natural color of the leather as received from the tannery. I do not let the dye get on the stamped or lined areas.

Antique dye is applied with a spong covered with the synthetic chamois to provide a smooth surface. A minimal amount of dye is used and care must be taken to prevent the dye from getting onto the stamped area. Its very easy to do once you get the hang of it. Below is my post copied from the other thread. I use an entirely different method to accomplish the same thing, except in reverse without using any resist. I use Fiebings antique dye ( not antique finish which I hate because it is so hard to handle on large pieces) availabe from S & T in St.Louis. I apply the dye with a sponge covered with synthetic chamois in a light circular motion as many coats as needed to get the color I want. I spray finish with Fiebings Leather Sheen which I have found to be much better than Resolene in that it dries waxy smooth without being high gloss or tacky, water resistant too!

I just finished these case that will ship out today and thought maybe someone might want to see some close-up detail. The inlays are ringtail lizard. The body of the brown case is suede with medium brown/stamping natural pockets, lid and back panel (Fiebings Antique dye and sprayed Leather Sheen. The black case is Fiebings Pro Oil with sprayed Leather Sheen. Comments or questions welcomed.