kjcreamer

Hi Colt. So you think the spray adhesive and handstitching is adequate for the strap tabs on the pack? I estimate I would carry no more than 20lb and would have 12lb weight goal most of the time.

Thanks Sonydaze...gonna give that idea a go on a test swatch tomorrow.

Hello. I'm making a bushcraft type backpack that will have a mix of leather and canvas parts. I made prototype that turned out really well except for the parts that I used barge to attach the leather to the canvas. For example the leather bottom to the canvas bottom and the leather buckle attachment to the canvas front. You can tell the cement "bled" through. My canvas is light/medium weight - sort of like a carhart jacket exterior fabric.I suppose I could just rely on the handstitching of leather to canvas but since this is a pack, I want it as strong as possible. Another option is a different adhesive but won't those others bleed too? (I only have Barge and plain Elmers but I'd be willing to buy something else if there's a suggestion). If it's a water based adhesive, how is it affected if the pack gets wet? I do plan to waterproof the canvas with a hot beeswax, parrafin, and boiled linseed oil mix that I saw online. I'd love any input.

Making a messenger bag from WC English bridle. What should the shoulder strap be like? Does it get lined with pig skin? Is it more common to leave single layer and make a small padded part to prevent sliding on shoulder? Thoughts?

Beautiful work!

I have the HSB Quick Change in two sizes. My problem is there is a line that the toe leaves on the leather. If you watch Nigel's review closely, he gets the same thing. I emailed Ranch2arena about this problem a couple weeks ago but no response.

I think your edge turned out fantastic.

Looking at Black Friday doorbuster special at my Tandy with the Deluxe Splitter model on sale for $200. Is this a good deal or is the blade just not worth even that? I've heard (and experienced) some disappointment with Tandy tools but I've not purchased any of their higher priced items. Any thoughts about pros or cons I should think about before going for it? Thanks for the input. BTW reg prices listed at $550, gold $440, elite $385

Well I bought the Campbell Randall after all but haven't received it yet. I'll post what I think after I've used it some.

Are hand setters for hardware universal? I have this Tandy set https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-deluxe-snap-all-rivet-setter-set If I am now upgrading to using snaps and rivets from say The Buckle Guy (or Ohio Travel Bag) will I be able to use the same setters? I'd like to move away from Tandy hardware to the brass hardware that the Buckle Guy sells.

What's the best way to cleanly remove a snap or rivet that I installed wrong? (I hit it too hard rather than the "tap, tap, tap" and it tipped.

1. I have two styles of hand creasers that I heat up using a burner. I've never been happy with the results. Why don't they make a hand tool that you can heat (I've see the wooden ones but obvs no heat) with one side longer to ensure the line stays even? This would help going around a curve because you could keep pressure on edge to to stay consistent. I understand that practice helps but I've been "practicing" this A LOT for 1 1/2 yr and still go off course/wobble. Also since you have to sort of angle the tool yourself to accommodate this the line isn't as sharp on one side because it's not perpendicular. Am I expecting too much? 2. I've only used veg tan and just ordered my first couple sides of English Bridle from Wickett and Craig to make messenger bags (had to save up the $ and improve my skills enough to warrant the jump to better quality leather over Tandy stuff). Recommendation for best creaser to work on leather that has been hot stuffed? Just heat and go like I do with veg? 3. I just started to explore electric creasers online. Never used one but since the bridle isn't struck through, I will need to edge paint which I've done by hand with some decent results on thicker veg. I also plan to move into making bags with thinner chrome tanned leathers (floppier leather will be difficult to sand multiple times to apply edge paint well). It appears this product from fineleatherworking.com will do edges AND creases: http://www.fineleatherworking.com/leather-electric-creaser But...the price...oh my...can't do it. ($600 for unit and $140 or more for EACH tip). So I found this https://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=74_110&product_id=14436 at Campbell Randall for $225 and roughly $42 for each tip. Now I still can't afford this yet but has anyone used it? 4. Then I checked out eBay and found these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Brass-Soldering-Iron-Tip-Press-Edge-Sector-Marking-Creaser-Decorate-Tool/371747551454?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D39107%26meid%3D8c42ff24045d491eb9f1efcbfa20635c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D172153479805 Could I buy a generic soldering iron and use these? If so how would these attach? I know many of you also have wood shops and metal shops to make and shape tools. Unfortunately this isn't something I know how to do but if I had enough directions and didn't have to buy a ton of expensive tools I'd be willing to try/learn. Basically I own a drill, Dremel tool, and some hand tools and that's it. I know...not a lot to work with.

I'm a little slow to respond here but your drawing looks REALLY similar to this one: for sale at Rocky Mountain Leather Supply https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/tools/products/trvr-work-apron but as you can see it's a mix of waxed canvas and leather to keep costs down. I think this is what others were recommending for incorporating some fabric.

What is synthetic gauze? Is it like a gauze bandage? If so, how do you prevent the gauze from absorbing so much liquid? What's the most efficient way to filter? I've never filtered but wondering now if this would fix some of the issues I have.