CowboyBob

The best way is counter-clockwise.

Here's one we welded years ago & he's still using it.But every repair is different. welded Adler.pdf

Singer 29K71 72 73 Manual hi res.pdf

Here's one in metric. TABLE TOP MEASUREMENT 241 SINGER STYLE.pdf

Great work!

One thing to check before you do any timing,turn the stitch length to "0" & make sure the feed dog in centered in the slot.

Here's an engineers manual on the theCB341 that should work on this model too. Juki_LS-341N_Engineers_Manual.pdf

@SkullzandHides I have some dark brown (Chesnut) in 415

Give me a call,we stock them,both 1 & 2 take the same part.They are a real buggar to install.

If you push on the pin lightly with the foot down & lift it & the pin doesn't move the tension release bracket is broken.

Yes,take all those screws out,take the cover off & there might be a fuse on the circuit board.

Do the # light up like they used to?Is there any error codes showing?There should be a panel you take off some screws to look inside for a fuse.

I haven't heard of that one before maybe send a pic or 2 of it?

It might help to let us know the brand of motor you have,because some have a fuse in them that can blow when overloaded.Some are internal & others are on theswitch.

I can get them & will let you know later today.

Tim,I know you called & I misplaced your ph# but I did price one out from Seiko & it's $350.00 (ouch)

Sounds like the safety clutch kicked out,there's 2 buttons on the bed,push on the one on the right ,turn your handwheel backwards until the button pushes down alittle more into a notch,then turn the handwheel backwards until you hear a click from underneath indicating it's reset.The machine should sew now.

69=44 yd,92=34 yd,138=23 yd,we don;t stock 207's so IDK how many yards they have.

What do you need for it?We stock alot of parts for this model.But your right there are a few parts that are NLA.

Matt You do what you want BUT it's going to be a job getting the old shaft out.You can adjust the stitch length by turning the screw with the point on the end. A lot of times people don't need to change the length much once they get it set up.

I really doubt you'll find anything.The best thing to do is turn the machine by hand so the needlebar is all the way down,then turn the handwheel towards you until the needlebar rises approx 3/32" then turn the cam so the point of the shuttle is at the needle,tighten the screws on the cam, thread the machine & see if it sews & if the foot walks like it should if it does your very lucky (LOL) Then you can drill the hole for the taper pin.

@AlainaZHave you checked to make sure your safety clutch isn't kicked out?Always check it b4 re-timing your hook.Be sure the A & B marks line up.

Take the end cap off & remove the 2) screws one @ 3:00 & one @ 9:00 & it should just slide out.

My guess is there's a spring missing in the stitch length,open the top oval plate,then push the needlebar front to back & see if you see movement there.There's a screw(#200607) w/a larger head on it maybe 1/4" & it is supposed to have a spring(#202295) under it. Singer 153W101-1 stitch length.pdf

If you need a spring we have them in stock.