CowboyBob

If you moved the hook to the left you "might" have too little clearance between the tab on the hook base & the cutout underneath the needle plate,you can either open up the cutout on the needle plate or move it slightly to the right.

I think the clutch is kicked out,take the bobbin out,try pushing on the stitch length button ,turn the handwheel backwards until it goes into the slot,while holding the button down push the handwheel backwards until you hear a click or until it just won't turn anymore.This "should" get the clutch re-engaged.

Put the screw for the eccentric, marked S on the eccentric into the slot (or V on the shaft)once you get it pushed to the left where it belongs & tighten the screw should get it feeding again.

@gordonl We stock these from size #19-#27

@AlZilla That guy in Toledo has them!

$75.00 w/shpg.the shaft can be hard to get out you need to sand it lightly as it gets rust & dirt on it.Then oil it so it slides out easier.

Turn it all the way one way,run it ,then turn it all the way the other,it should eventually go more & more each time.

@friquant The new stitch length cam I have in stock uses allen screws to the shaft.the others are still slotted.

I'll agree with @kgg the brush motor is the one to go with we might have 2 out of 1,000 go bad where we had 3 out of 10 of the brushless type go bad & gave up on them.

There's 2 ways to fix it,replace it OR try sewing & using it w/o locking it up should make the part rock in the grooves to get it to free up,you need to tighten the smaller screw since that is what connects the stitch cam to the shaft.

There's a wingnut adjustment on the back side you need to move to the "H" side.This will make the foot lift higher when it walks.

The easiest way to check the hook timing on this type of machine is if you drew an imaginary line from the center of the bobbncase to the center of the front needleplate screw the point of the hook should be directly under it when the needlebar is all the way down.

Grab theneedlebar & push it front to back to check for play,make sure the hook tip is good & that the bobbincase isn't too loose.Then some samples of what you want to sew along with some thread ( in case they don't have any) & see if it will sew your material ok.These are great machines just keep it oiled good & all the parts are still available.

So is the long groove of the needle facing the front?Do you have a manual for it?

I hate to ask,but are you sure your turning it the right way?

Yes,when it kicks out it will hit there until it gets re-engaged.It's not going in the groove because your not pushing the handwheel backwards with enough force WHILE holding the button down.Since you don't want to do what I'm telling you you can get a wide screwdriver put on the lower part of the left pin & top of the right pin give it a twist (clockwise)& it'll pop back in the groove.

Like I said b4,push the button & while holding it down push the handwheel backwards & it'll snap back in.

It's not rusted,don't take it apart! Just re-engage the safety clutch & you'll be sewing again.

Very simple,the safety clutch kicked out maybe because you forgot to hold the thread when you first started sewing.So there's 2-buttons on the bed,push the one on the right down while turning the hand wheel backwards & keep turning it until you hear a loud click.This means it's back in gear.PS if your repair person didn't know this I would look for someone else!

Yes,some long bobbins are hard to find BUT we have these bobbins in stock.

Vais Sewing machine in Brooklyn should be able to get it going.

That's what the factory recommends BUT if you do it the rings might get gunked up with carbon & start using alot of oil. Then you'll have to look for a video on Youtube on how to repair it.

Measure it(the needle) & let us know how long it is.135x16,16 is approx 1& 3/4" long 190 is almost 2"

"G" machines were made in Germany,W -USA,U-Japan