All double needle machines need 2-bobbins(hooks) so you can't make a double needle out of it.if you did since it only has one bobbin, the stitch will look like a zig-zag on the bottom side,causing the thread to wear through quickly.
Yes,your going in the right direction,birdnesting underneath is always the top thread.Either it's too loose or not threaded correctly,try tightening the top tension 1/2 turn @ a time until it goes away.
Nice video,the 207 thread sews good on the Pfaff 30.The shuttle in the 15 class allows for larger thread,I've never tried heavy thread on the 201 since it's a rotary hook & usually won't take as big of thread & the 15's are alot more common in this area.
Since the needlebar & foot bar ride in the same casting there's no adjustment,my guess is the foot is bent ,you can either try to bend it backwards alittle or grind it out w/a Dremel of get a new one.
@TZHunter It is a shirring or ruffling attachment for draperies.There's an arm w/a blade on it w/teeth that grip the material & push it into the foot.It fastens on the shaft in the front.
If it doesn't have the stop on it it's for the 111w only. The 211 tension needs the take up spring stop & the correct part# for the complete 211 tension unit is 244727,if you can't find it we stock them.
The needlebar has on none threaded hole in it so you can see that the end of the needle is all the way up,the one screw holds the needle in & the other one holds the needlebar thread guide on.There are not to many Ind machines that have a needle stop screw,BUT you will see them in alot of household type of machines.
The problem with the 211 is it doesn't use many of the standard screws for previous models (look @ the tap chart I attached) AFAIK the tap kit is NLA either just like most of the screws & many parts for a 211.
page0096.pdf
@Jama 211's are good machines BUT it is a re-designed 111W (which you can still buy all the parts for) they changed alot of parts & screws SO many small items like certain screws & other small parts will be hard to find since they've been discontinued yrs ago.
@Leather144, The inner basket of the hook slid out of the position finger when it jammed up(very common problem) so take the black screw out of the position finger (chrome piece) turn the inner basket so the v-shape part is @ the top & line it up so the piece of metal sticking out @ the end of the finger is in the cut-out like in the pic.And oil the inner part of the hook every hour or so,Just one drop.
The longer needle breaks easier & are harder to find(we stock them though) so they adjusted it for the more common 135x17 needle.This needlebar is hard chrome steel & very hard to tap,BUT I do have it in stock for $24.00 + shpg,call to order.
This machine has some pretty aggressive feed dogs & since it doesn't have a walking foot to help feed it will probably leave alot of teeth marks on the bottomside.Take some of your samples over there & try it b4 you buy it & see if you can live with the marks.
It depends on the material some leathers are sticky & the stitch length will shorten & the flat foot will also have problems going over a seam where this will allow it to feed better.
This is a Chinese copy of a Singer 81-10 serger,3-spool auto-lube.Around 1995 here in the states YMC used to bring these in & they were not a quality machine this one might of been $95.00 cost for the head.
@rac1812 Slightly loosen the 2 screws on the small hook gear & see if you can get the hook to lower,if it won't move down you could grind out the slot on the bottom of the needle plateTry to increase the size of the slot from front to back(grind on the front side) & try not to take any metal off of the top of the slot.