celticleather

Ray My copy is similar to the one you posted, but there's more of it, and it has a much better selection of spelling and typographical errors! It looks more like a translation that has been produced in Germany and shipped with the machine. Terry For anyone who needs it, here it is (in 3 parts, cos the files are too big!): Junker3-9.pdf Junker10-17.pdf Junker18-27.pdf Junker3-9.pdf Junker10-17.pdf Junker18-27.pdf

You'll need to get all the old glue off the sole and the upper, and roughen the surfaces (with heavy-grade sandpaper) before you stick the sole back. Use a rubber or polyurethane cement (depending on whether the sole is rubber or plastic). Whatever you do, DON'T use any form of superglue. It will soak into the leather and turn it to concrete, and it will snap off like a dry biscuit! Believe me . . . I've been fixing these problems for 35 years!

Vangy Here are some pictures of the head of the 29K, showing the path of the thread. Around the vertical post A, between the tension discs B, through the wire loop C, up through the take-up lever D, and down the tunnel in the needle-bar. At the bottom of the needle-bar, the thread passes through the needle from left to right. . . . and away you go . . ! Terry

Ray It may be the same, although the copy I have is for the SD28 . . . I'll check. This is certainly a lot cleaner and more legible than mine is likely to be! Terry

I'll try to take some pictures when I'm at the shop tomorrow. Terry

In the process of clearing out my old workshop, I have found an instruction manual for a Junker & Ruh SD28 stitching machine. It's very old/dirty/tatty, but if anyone has need of it, I'll be happy to scan it and either put it on the Forum or send it by PM (or both!). Let me know.

Hi Vangy Welcome to the Forum! Take a look at this thread: http://leatherworker...=1entry134725, where I've posted a pdf file of the Singer 29K instruction manual. It may not be for your particular model, but they are all pretty much the same. The thread needs to pass down the vertical tunnel in the needle bar - just below the take-up lever at the top of the machine. You'll need a threading wire, about 1mm thick and 300mm long, with a v-shaped nick in the end. I think the manual should make it all fairly clear! Terry

As Jon says, it's necessary to use the right size of English point punch for the width of strap. My illustration shows the result of using a 2" punch on a 2" belt, and below it, the same size punch used on a 1½" belt. It creates a very uncomfortable angle where the punch intersects the strap, which no amount of recutting will correct. I make templates from old lithographic printing plates, about .008" thick, which can be cut to shape with sharp scissors. It's then easy to scribe a line on the strap with a scratch awl, and cut the curve with a head knife or round knife. The second illustration shows the construction of a true English point. The diameter of the circles is the same as the width of the strap. This can be carried out on the litho plate before cutting, using sharp dividers, or on heavy card using compasses.

Good tutorial! I'll just jump in and confirm that these are Le Prevo buckles (0508-20 3/4" brass full roller buckle - £4.73 per 10). They're the same ones that I use on my pouches! Terry

Welcome to the Forum . . . a bottomless pit of (mostly) useful information! It's worth checking that you have the needle facing the right way in the needle-bar . . . with the long groove to the left. Having it in the wrong orientation can sometimes cause the problems you are experiencing. If you don't have a manual for the machine, I posted a pdf at http://leatherworker...=1entry134713 a while ago. It's for the 29K71 and 29K73, but the information is pretty much the same for most models. Hope it helps! Terry

When I started out in leatherwork, computers were the size of a barn, and the Internet didn't even exist in science fiction! There were precious few books on the subject, and not many people to ask. Those who knew the answers were often reluctant to share their knowledge. I spent a lot of time in the company of an old saddler who had served in the army in WW1, and as a maker of tack for the war department in WW2. His tuition was invaluable to me, and I would make bridles and mend tack under his eye. When I moved into making 'bespoke' articles, my only method of learning was trial and error . . . quite a lot of trial and many errors! Over the years I have gathered much valuable experience, and I was pleased to share my knowledge when I tutored college courses during the early 1980s. Today, when I see the amount of information and advice that is available on the web, particularly on Leatherworker.net, I often think how much easier the learning process would have been if the Internet had existed forty years ago! I guess I would have still made mistakes, but at least there would have been someone who would have helped me out! How lucky we are - newbees and oldees, to have this fantastic resource!

I came across an interesting article in Cutting Edge magazine about George Barnsley & Sons, which explains everything that we've speculated about here on the Forum. My thanks to Colin Barnsley for granting permission to reproduce the article here, and to Tony Driver, Editor of Cutting Edge, for his assistance in providing the attached pdf. WR_Article_(web).pdf WR_Article_(web).pdf

Or perhaps try this thread again, post no 13 . . . http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7006&st=0

Perhaps it was this thread http://leatherworker...topic=7006&st=0

Ray Did you know that Abbey Saddlery have a treadle machine for £160.00 (plus tools)? http://www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk/product_detail.cfm?id=FS063. It's a little unclear exactly what it's capable of, but I'm sure they'd let you know. Terry

I find that methylated spirit (denatured alcohol in the US) works fine. Smells better than the Fiebings reducer, and much cheaper!

It's the period that we've just gone back to here in jolly old England!

Neat is the Anglo-saxon word for 'animal, beast, ox or cattle'. Neatsfoot oil is the product of rendering-down cattle feet (as well as a bad smell!).

Hi DaCoda Welcome to the Forum! There's about a fortnight's reading to be found at http://www.kingsmerecrafts.com/. Scroll down to the bottom of the page, and click on the 'Contents' link. There are several glossaries here, of leather types, tools, methods, etc, but you'll need some patience to read it all! There are also some useful tutorials at http://www.bowstock..../tutorials.html, which are quite useful for folk who are starting out in leathercraft. Happy reading! Terry

Have you tried Fiebings Professional Oil Dye? It certainly works well for me, with no rub-off. It seems to dye almost anything . . . leather, fingers, clothes, carpets . . .

Mike I don't have any spares, but they're available from http://www.college-sewing.co.uk, for £10.71 + VAT. I've used these people several times, and they're very efficient. Just enter 82007 in their search box. Terry

Why not cut out the back and flap as one piece, adding in the width of the gusset? Could save you some stitching! Something like this (roughly):

Ray Perhaps you should pay a visit to the Blists Hill Victorian Town . . . not very far from you. I was amazed to see this picture posted here. A few years ago I spent an hour chatting to this gentleman in his little workshop at the Blists Hill Victorian Town museum. I was so envious of his job . . . a few hours a day, chatting to interested visitors, and at the same time making belts and leathergoods to sell as souvenirs. He was a very knowledgeable chap, and he had original copies of catalogues and books that I've only ever seen as reproductions! I wonder if he's still there . . ? Terry

I have a piece of antler that I use for burnishing, and it's the best material I have ever used! The surface has to be completely smooth and polished, and does not require much pressure to achieve a good result.

I've attached a pdf of the user manual for the 29K71 and 29K73, but the procedure for the 29K72 is exactly the same. You will need (or may already have) a threading wire, about 1mm thick and 12" long, with a v-shaped slit in the end, to get the thread through the vertical tunnel in the needle bar. Hope this helps! Terry Whoops . . . the file was too big! Here's the second part! Terry Pages 1-7 29KPatcher.pdf Pages 8-14 29KPatcher.pdf Pages 1-7 29KPatcher.pdf Pages 8-14 29KPatcher.pdf