Handstitched

G'day Mate, I left a message in your in box. The big day is Friday 20th Sept. around 1.30- 2pm . It'll be a long 2 1/2 - 3 hour drive from here to get there. Not looking forward to the city. My whip cracking is doing quite well. the cracks are loud!! I'll let everyone know how it all went, maybe over the weekend. Best Regards, HS

G'day, well done, I like it ....and the dye covered fingers. I don't bother with gloves either. Handstitched

G'day again, I forgot to mention ( in case anyone spots it), this machine was originally a twin needle, but I changed it to a single needle. I can change it back if I want to, but I have no need for a twin needle. HS

G'day, If its any help, I have a Seiko STW 28-B ( 226 equivalent, see pic.) with only minor variations to the Consews. It gets used for horse rug repairs mainly . Horse rugs often present a variety of thicknesses, like thick seams, folds on ripstop fabrics, and variety of materials etc. But I can also sew 2.5 - 2.8mm leathers quite easily. Its quite a strong machine, but being mostly used for horse rugs, I keep it clean and well oiled. Hope this helps a liitle bit. All the best Handstitched

G'day Red Cent & Ian1783, I have a Q Stitch Colt, which is vertually identical to the Techsew 5100 in the vid. with only a slight difference on the thread guides. On my machine, I loop the thread though the eyelet through the (top) discs , give it a slight tug to make sure it 'sits in' ( sometimes hearing a slight 'snap' of the discs ) , and back through the eyelet , and continue threading. Before I did that, on some very rare occasions, the thread 'snapped out' of the (top) discs whilst sewing. This threading method rectified that little problem. Also, as we all know, oiling your machine/s at regular intervals is important . As well as oiling all the regular oiling points on my machine, I take the shuttle hook assembly right out and put a little bit of oil on the rounded part of the assembly. ( and anything else on the machine while its out), but not too much . Just a little thing that I've learnt from my own experience. It now runs whisper quiet. All the best, Handstitched

Yes, I do a lot of handstitching as well Probably one of the most relaxing , and perhaps theraputic part of leatherworking. A machine is wonderful timesaver when doing large volumes. I don't feel quite so silly now giving my machine a name Without going off topic too much, I once called my old Landy 'Enterprise' ...but thats another story. Handstitched

G'day, I would have to say that my fave tool to begin my leatherworking day with, is my Kingchrome Folding utility knife: https://bnnn72.ssl-cdn.s.mel.secureinf.net/Product-298x298/1c0ff2db-33ae-4f17-9c61-c2132bbedaf9.JPG I have small hands and can't quite accomodate a large round knife, so this is ideal for me and the work I do . Because it folds, it's safe, blades are changed quickly ,easily and safely.The Kingchrome brand blades seem to last longer than other brands from experience. I can also sharpen the old blades up on a stone or strop to extend their life. My second choice ,when tooling, is my fave beveler ( the exact number escapes me right now , but maybe a B801).I have many bevelers, but the texture on this particular beveler is all but gone, its so well worn, but its the one I reach for on just about every single job/project, giving me just right effect that I want. Last but certainly not least, is 'Brutus' , my sewing machine: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/4111321665/in/photostream/ Best investment I ever made. ( I' m probably the only one that give his beloved sewing maching a name!.....needless to say, I am single...still ! ) Good luck in your leatherworking endeavours. All the best Handstitched

G'Day, A bit more 'whip' news. These last few weeks I've been so busy, but I have managed to get some whip practice in. Youtube vids have been very helpful. Adam Winwich was one of them. My first attempts were pretty dismal , with only limited and poor sounding 'cracks', more like 'flops' than cracks. My next attempts were a slight improvement, but still no definite "crack". And in case anyones asks, yes, I have hit myself, quite a few times. But, no pain, no gain eh? Anyway,just now, I went outside to practice some more .I have now developed my 'swing' after practicing the cattlemans crack, but only this time theres a definite loud "crack", loud enough for it to echo across the paddocks.......its even got my sheeps attention. (hope people don't mistaken it for gunshot!!) That happened several times...YEY!! I want to do some more now !!! Quite pleased with myself actually. But now my right arm is tired.( like I've just arm wrestled with Arnold Schwarzenegger) No doubt in time my arm will strengthen and get used to doing stuff.....like...... cracking whips. Might do some more this arvo. All the best Handstitched

G'day again, When I go to my supplier , I have noticed that nearly all of the hard leathers veg tanned or otherwise, are stored flat . When they receive leathers, they are rolled up, but are unrolled soon after. I have also noticed that theres hardly any sunlight getting into the warehouse, only flouro's I am now having a think as to how to store my hard leathers flat. I have absolutely no idea how and where......as space is at a prime. My first thought is to modify the wooden shelf under my bench....somehow. all the best, Handstitched

G'day, I was just having a read through this thread , and there seems to be no set rule as to how to properly store leather. However, just to add my 2 cents worth. If I had the space ( which I don't) ,ideally I would love to store all my hard leathers (mainly veg tanned, harness etc. ) flat in a safe place, away from sunlight, ( as veg tanned is photosensitive), covered up to protect them from dust , and anything else that a dusty messy workshop presents. But thats the ideal scenario. So instead, I roll mine up, stored on a purpose built wooden shelf under my work bench. I use 4mm veg tanned double shoulders ( some up to 60" ) for my belts. I have learnt not to roll them up too tightly, because I have noticed that if I do, they do have small creases in the finished product. If/When my shelves are full, then I have D/shoulders standing up all over my workshop looking like totem poles, or leaning against benches etc....makes the workshop look untidy too. It makes me wonder if rolling them up (OR rolling them up for too long?), can have an effect on the grain/ grain side, in the long term. Interesting subject eh? It would be good to hear more on this Best Regards, Handstitched.

G'Day , I got my new whip today to practice cracking whips for Judging at a show coming up mid Sept. Its a 7' 6 plait stock whip, cane handle , red hide, and VERY well made. Peter T, you may well know the maker. Nemeth Whips ( Brain Nemeth...and family ) of Queensland. pretty much identicle to this one: http://www.everythingaustralian.com.au/products/whip-wood.jpg I can't help but keep sniffing it!! Smells wonderful !! All I have to do now........is practice All the best Handstitched

G'day Cookiemonster, Just be warned that leather work is very addictive, once you start, theres no turning back If ever you get stuck, you'll have plenty of help on here, and theres no such thing as a silly question on here. I wish you the best Handstitched

G'day again, Thank you all very much for your great advice, its all been very helpful, especially Peter T. I have just over month to go before I go to the show to Judge. I could always buy myself a good affordable whip from a reputable supplier to practice my whip cracking, as I don't want to look a complete goose on my big day. I know there is a knack to it. Grampa Joel, I will keep the bevelling in mind, in fact , that could be a difficult one to judge on. I would have to think very carefully, did they leave it un-bevelled on purpose, or was it an oversight? but I would think bevelling would look nicer. I think colours would look quite nice too. Thanks once again, Handstitched

G'Day, I have been granted the very honourable position of Judging leatherwork at a large popular show this year....and its my first time. It was my understanding there was some difficulty in finding a Judge this year for the leatherwork section, and if I didn't accept the position, it would have been granted to a 'General Judge' ( that judges everything if a Judge can't be found) , that , ( with great respect) may not know too much about leatherwork, so with my experience behind me , I took the position. I've been doing leatherwork for almost 10 years now ( thats gone quick ) , and I know from experience what to look out for when it comes to bags , belts, etc the quality of the tooling, carving , attention to detail , craftmanship, functionality and so on. However, when it comes to whips and braiding, I know a quailty made whip or a quality braid but is there anything that I should be looking out for? I have done some plaiting, but not whip making. Am I excited? you betchya!! Am I nervous.........just a little bit Thanks for any advice. Handstitched

G'Day again, just a quick 'P.S' on that. I noticed that Thread Exchange have 207 in a variety of colours ( more than 277 ) .Looking at the write up, the 207 can go through my #24 needle, which is what in wanted ...COLOURS than can go through my machine ...yey http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TTE&Category_Code=polyester-thread-size-207 all the best HS

G'Day I was going to ask where can I get 277 threads.... cheaper than what I'm paying here in Australia, as I'm getting a little peeved at paying around $87 (Australian) + postage ( totaling around $ 100+) for a 2000mtr spool of 277/M10 , and that price is supposed to be "wholesale". Its also hard to find colours other than natural, black white etc. in 277. Needless to say, there are very few industrial sewing machine specialists and thread wholesalers in Western Australia , mostly in the east. Then after a search on here, I found The Thread Exchange.And surely, even with freight, getting my threads from the States much be cheaper than what I'm paying here in Oz . I also discovered Weaver's they have a selection of threads too, and now have a customer number and hope to do business with them soon. When in business, a little saving is better than none. All the best HS

G'day leatherworkers This is just a simple upholstery job on a basket ( and the little strap on the tool box) for an old motorcycle but I'm more impressed with the bike it went on . Just thought I'd share it with you. My Father was an upholsterer by trade in his early days, and I picked up a few simple tips . The bike is approx . 1920-1924. I wasn't expecting such beautiful photos, but the owners son is a professional photographer. Enjoy. http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/8995413008

G'Day ,and G'day to mcjerjer, from Western Australia You'll have to be careful about starting your new leather hobby, it can be very addictive, and once you've been bitten by the leather craft bug, there is no antidote and no cure. My leatherwork started out as a hobby, and now, 9 years later, its a full time 7 day per week business. If you ever get stuck on anything, there are many people on here that are more than happy to help, and there is no such thing as a 'silly question' . Good luck with your new hobby . HS

G'Day again, just to quickly answer your question "Where do people find customers like these?" I do craft markets every weekend in various locations, and I often get an assortement of enquiries regarding repairs, some of which are quite challenging, but very educational . This particular client found me at a market 3 years ago...she's only just got around to having the bellows repaired.....thank God for flyers & business cards HS

G'Day , Thank you very much. Looking closely at the old leather, its looks like it got a bit to close to direct heat causing it to dry out and split. I used a 1 -1.5mm veg tan leather, and using the old pieces ( what was left of them) as a template. After oiling, dying, I put a few liberal coats of sealer on the inside, and a coat of super shene on the outside which finished it off nicely. All the copper and the brass tacks were polished up using a piece of steel wool, Autosol ( metal polish) and some brasso. I'll be advising the customer to keep them away from direct heat. I have since put a piece of brass chain on them to hang them up...away from heat. I'll also be keeping an eye out for bellows at S/H shops, markets etc. I never knew how nice they looked with a bit of love. Imagine how they'd look with a nice carved leather design on top? All the best, HS

G'Day, I had a small set of hand held bellows sent to me from a customer, and they were in pretty bad shape. I think they're around 30years old. There must be something special about them for the customer to go to great lengths to have them repaired, sentimental perhaps. My first time doing bellows, and now, after seeing the end result, I wouldn't mind doing some more. I took notes etc. , took pics , wrote down all sorts of info so I knew how they looked and how they go back together. Although I smelt like a piece of smoked bacon by the time I finished, its not exactly a huge job, but I quite enjoyed doing these. Hope you like the pics. HS

G'Day I was asked to do a logo for a motorcyle club member, so it can be attached to one of his saddle bags on his bike. I first practiced on a piece of scrap. The logo itself was pretty easy to do, but there were some words that I couldn't quite fit into the space using the smallest letters I had. I used a silhouette style carving, as it is B/W with no colours. However, I had a light bulb moment . Practicing on scrap, I used a pointy modeling tool to write the letters in, and to leave a nice impression, and....wait for it.....I also used an old felt tip pen that had dried out, dip it in the dye ( like a quill) and write with the dye. The 'handwritten' style , suited the logo perfectly. I've attached a few pics. This can be used in all sorts of applications, and with different size felt tips. I'm really hoping that this is MY contributing idea to the leather crafting world,....but knowing my luck, someone else has already done it. I just hope it helps someone else. All the Best, Handstitched

G'Day again, Thank you for your comments. Just to answer a few questions, no I didn't put any lining on the inside, I have dyed it , but it is now quite neat clean and tidy. But I have lined them in the past. I use a material called 'chamois' ( no doubt a different name where you are) , a bit like a velvet, only much cheaper ( here in Oz at least) Before I use any adhesives on the material, I put a good covering of matt sealer on the inside , the same sealer artists use after doing pencil drawings. The sealer prevents any of the adhesive 'seaping' through to the 'good' side when applied. I use a contact type adhesive. The one I use is a gel type, so I don't get the 'stringy' bits that you sometimes get from glues. I do normally take a copy from the pieces for a pattern , but on this occasion I didn't because am pretty sure I have the same or a similar pattern in amongst my 100's of patterns & many books etc in my filing cabinet. I have many old pattern books dating back to the 60's & 70's , many of which are Al Stohlman. There is very slight " sihouette" style carved pattern right down the bottom of the front of the bag, ( out of view). Perhaps with a bit more thought......and of course , time, I could have used some white leather paint to complete the B&W theme, it would have been a 'reverse silhouette' carve I guess (?) . but I left it as it was . Anyway, thanks once again, All the best from a VERY hot Western Australia HS

G'Day, I'm in the Central wheatbelt WA. I didn't realise Cowboy machines were available in Oz? I have a Colt, by Q Stitch from Cabalaba QLD. http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/4111321665/ Hope its not the same comany selling the Cowboy, I will be dissapointed, as I've had no trouble whatsoever with my machine, or the company, (touchwood). HS

G'Day, I do sometimes have old handbags given to me , or I've found them in second hand or charity shops. They are usually in pretty poor condition when I get them , but by the time I have finished with them, they're pretty good. In the first pic, you can see how bad it is. It's even got some mould on it. The original buckle was put on upside down The second, I pulled it apart ready for a good clean with some solvent to remove any sealers , dirt etc. The third, after cleaning, I gave it a coat of oil, followed by 2-3 coats of black dye,( enough to hide the brown underneath) some sealer, and leather dressing and a polish up. The fourth, after using white machine stitching, I used some 4.7mm white lace for assembly, and instead of using a replacement buckle , I have used a chrome magnetic clasp, and used rivets to cover up the holes. Some additional leather trim , 'D' rings and chrome chain ....and some creativity , was used to complete the picture. All ready for its new owner I quite enjoy doing those, and the end result All the best HS