Handstitched

G'Day , Well I finally got the machine home after a long drive.I did try knocking the price down, but he wouldn't budge....bugger ....it was worth a try. Anyway, looks can be deceiving, despite its appearance, it runs a lot smoother than I expected. I looked closely at how many stitches it can achieve. Still using the old needle that is still in it, it can do stitches 4mm long and I used a piece of 2.5mm veg tan off cut. I also tried two layers of 2.5mm veg (5mm) , still the same...4mm long, even with the old needle, it went thru easier than I expected. So, if it can do that, well, it is certainly going to do what I bought it for. I'll have to take some pics of the stitching. Also, after cleaning the little copper and brass plates, I discovered thats it's not a 55, but a 53, not a great deal of difference really. Apart from cleaning the surface rust on the arm etc, ,and giving it some TLC, theres not a great deal that I'll be doing to it. I won't touch the logo's etc that are remaining, I'd like to keep those. I am happy with it. There is also one more 53 (or 55) that I know about, that I'll be getting, but not sure if it is complete. I have also got a lead on a stand for the 53. All the best, HS

G'Day, I did manage to get a closer look at the machine a short time ago, its is a single needle machine, but can take a twin needle if need be. The tensioners are all in tact but I couldn't find a stitch (length) adjustment, the owner said the stich was 'set' (?) thats a bit unusual. It all turns so smoothly too. But now I can't wait to get it home have a 'play' with it. But I did also say, "You are NOT giving me this machine for nothing....I'll definitely give you something for it" , thats what mates do . all the best HS

G'Day again, I mentioned earlier in another thread that my "sewing machine bucket list is almost complete", and one of the machines that I was going to get was a Singer 132K6, however, since then I found out that a neighbour just so happens to have an industrial machine that she is willing to let me have. ( I will give her something for it , as 'theres no such thing as a free lunch' in my book) but anyway , Its not a 132K6, but , it is a Seiko STW 28B walking foot, which she had intended to use it to repair horse rugs. I spotted it on her back verandah after rendering her some assistance during a violent destructive storm at the weekend ( of all things). I have been searching the net, but I don't have a lot of info on the machine, so any feedback on this machine would be helpful, or even some pics/ links. I have sent an email to Seiko in Japan for some info, ie , 'What type of machine it is , what type of materials it can sew , and how thick ? manuals ? etc. What I have learned , that it maybe a twin needle (?) I am hoping that it can be used with a single needle as well? She is willing to let me have it, so I can't really complain too much about the brand or the quality of the machine. And yes, its all in good working order too, and although she hasn't used it , she has looked after it and kept it under cover. So many thanks yet again, all the best, HS

G'Day again, Thanks heaps for the feed back. I think I will be spending some time (.....and some cash) to bring it up to scratch. I have no intention of putting heavy leathers through it perhaps, 2-2.5mm .... 3mm thick at the most.. But I will certainly put it through it paces to see what it can do and paying close attention to what parts are worn, how many stitches it does, but I won't be setting my expectations to high. If it does need some mechanical TLC, then the search of parts will begin. I also have a friend here in my own town that also has a patcher for sale , so I might be purchasing that as well. My machine 'bucket list' is almost complete. I have a Pfaff 60 , (my Mothers old machine ) which is ideal for thin/light stuff, can sew up to 2.5 mm. I have my Colt, ( as you saw in the picture) which is ideal for the thick heavy stuff ( great investment too) I now have all the adjustments just perfect now, and never misses a beat. I just need a patcher, for the 360 deg foot for doing odd stitches, and perhaps a Singer 132k60 (or simliar) for 'inbetween' stuff and for doing horse rugs etc. ( I have been asked to do those now) I will be buying that old patcher, but I will certainly pay attention to the feed back here when I finally get it home. But I'll give it a good oil up first. I'll keep you informed how it goes. Thanks heaps once again. HS

Bugger!! Take 3 The file was too big....thats why. sorry about that:( OK....try this instead. http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/5392883550/ hope that helps. (chech out the other pics if you like) Thanks HS

G'Day again, I don't know why , but the pic didn't attach. I'll try again HS

G'Day, I have just got off the phone a few moments ago, and after much deliberation, I have decided to purchase a Singer 29K55 patcher machine after seeing it advertised in the classifieds, in fact, its been in there for approx 3 weeks.It was in the 'sewing machine ' section, but was moved to the 'antiques and collectables ' section, as the age was advertised as '1912' .(?) I received a photo of it via email a short time ago. I just need some feed back on what you think.(?) The seller is a former leather worker himself and still has some of his tools (and after seeing my leather work , may inspire him to get back into it....we need more leather workers:thumbsup: ) And , despite its rusty appearance, I have been given assurance that it is all in working order...including the most important bit (for me), the 360 degree rotating foot. I haven't used these machines before , and I don't know very much about them. It hasn't got a stand , but I'll look for one later. The only downside is that it over 3 1/2 hrs drive away further south of me in regional Western Australia. (I'm quite used to driving long distances in one arvo ) After reading quite a few posts on here regarding the restoration of these old machines, I think the best course of action would be, go over the arm with some steel wool ( and remove any other surface rust) and to just to give it a good oil up, and not bother painting it, as I don't want to lose the remaining decals.(?) I think someone on here mentioned that they look good with their 'patina'. Any other advice would be appreciated. The amount I'm paying is, $250 Australian. Thanks in advance. HS

G'Day , my response is 'better late than never', but nonetheless , I had a post pertaining to a similar problem 'To Back stitch or not to back stitch' ( or somethng like that). I got some good helpful responses from that. Since then I always back stitch 3-4 stitches. However , I have never tried burning the ends. I might experiment with that. all the best , HS

G'Day again, Thanks for the responses and the great ideas. I have taken some pics of the belts I've made using the off cuts, as well as the brass 'dees' that I used. My leather working skills may not be up to the standard of a more experienced leather worker, but you'll get the idea. I do sometimes make key rings, fridge magnets etc from the off cuts, but making these 3 piece belts, I can get a much higher return from them, and being 3 piece, the style, pattern and colour combinations are endless. Enjoy:thumbsup:

G'Day from a very hot Western Australia, and a belated Happy New Year to all. Its been quite a while since I have been on here, but quite some time ago I was wondering what to do with the belt blank off cuts besides turning them into book marks , wrist bands etc. I did experiment joining two off cuts together by skiving the ends and glueing them together to make one long piece,( I also tried rivets) I wasn't happy with the way those experiments looked...needless to say....that failed !! But then I came across some 'belting dee's', made of solid brass ( no doubt you may already have heard of them?, just keep in mind I am still learning), however, I can't find any in nickle plate or stainless steel....yet. They came in 3 sizes 25mm, 38mm & 32 mm and approx 2.5mm thick, and slip nicely through a standard size belt loop on a pair of jeans, as they are just the right size and shape and thickness, and being brass, look quite nice too. I have just made 3 different styles of belts to experiment with, and so far so good, they do look quite good. They are a 3 piece belt, the billet end , centre piece, and the buckle end. When I am finished, I'll take some pics and post them on here. Anyway, all the very best to all, and I'll post those pics hopefully in the near future. HS

G'day again, Wasn't long since I last posted. My brain went a million miles an hour just now, but I think I've got it. Instead of just joining the two cut ends together, try this: Skive one the end of one blank off cut to half its thinkness on the flesh side, for example, approx 2" to 3" in. Then, do the same on the other off cut , but on the grain side so that the two pieces overlap. The shaped patch can still be applied, and perhaps the lining as well, but at least if you're using the machine, the needle will have something to 'grab', rather than dissappear between a join. There's no doubt a name for that type of join in woodwork...but I don't know what its called. Some will say "I already knew that!!" ha ha !! O'h well , can't wait to try that out now all the best HS

Thanks for your response. I'm guessing that I would need to put a lining on the inside of the belt which would have to go the full length of the belt , or put the same size shaped patch ( of a lighter grade leather) on the inside. I do agree with making the shaped patch the feature of the belt though , I think thats a great idea. I think I might experiment with scraps first , and then decide what work best. No doubt the strength will be there, but whether a customer would buy a belt with a join in it may be another matter. I can only try. If I get a chance to do so, I'll take some pics either of the finished belt, or of the 'experiments'. Thanks again

G'day from upsidedown land. I wasn't sure what title to use , but anyway. I do feel a bit of a goose asking this, but when we all make belts , obviously theres the off cuts. Depending on the length of the belt , I'll have off cuts in various lengths left over ,some of which I turn into book marks , key rings or dog collars, straps etc. or perhaps ranger belts suitable for a childs waist or a small adult waist. But if I wanted to use those off cuts to make a full length adult size belt , for example , we'll say a 42" , what would be the neatest and/or tidiest way of joing two pieces together?? Rivet , stitch, or both?? Do you try to hide the join, or intentionally make the join obvious ?? I appreciate that 'O' rings 'D' rings etc. can also be used as part of the belt design. Any ideas ?? Thanks in advance All the best, HS

After reading some of the posts, I think I'm under charging, however I can't put the price up too much as I simply wouldn't sell a thing. http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/4626429309/ I sold this rose carved belt for $60.00 Aust. ( some people baulk at that price...or try to knock me down) Just bear in mind , that I am still a learner , but this belt to fit 38" (97cm) waist was made using 3.8-4.0mm veg tan ( everything is in millimetres down here...not ounces) , with nic hardware. If that was to be handstitched, it would be sold for approx $80.00 Perhaps I should start charging more,( our tax time is coming up (June 30) , so I might be 'reviewing' ALL my prices, but I may run the risk of not selling any belts at all. All the best, HS

Cane Toads are serious problem in Australia, needless to say we have an endless supply of toad skins. There are numerous uses for the skins.This is one of mine. I just need to brush up on my photographic skills as the pic is a bit out of focus....sorry HS

Thanks for your reply. I had a feeling that I was simply running out of room for another full braid, and didn't 'complete'. Perhaps if I tighten up the other braids in the belt , I might be able to fit one more braid in. Thanks once again

I appreciate that this topic would no doubt have been visited numerous times before. I've been doing simple 3 braid secret plaits, practiced on lots of scraps first , made quite a few wrist bands etc. they look great , then started to make belts, all goes really well ( without looking at the book by Bruce Grant) until the last six to eight inches of the belt. O'K., from here on , I'll refer to the wonderful book on braiding by Bruce Grant, following the exact instructions on 3 braid secret plait.But for some reason in the last six inches or so , just before I get to the very end of the 3 braids, its like the twists have doubled (?)..and just looks a complete twisted mess and simply won't flatten out like it has done throughout the rest of the belt. My apologies if I am not making any sense at all.Perhaps some pics may help later. But has anyone else got 'stuck ' towards the end? I also appreciate that it may be difficult to describe a remedy on the forum. Thanks

G'Day Again, Thanks for that.Hopefully now that I have the adjustment just right, I won't need to touch it again for the sewing that I do, but just needed to know ....just in case . Thanks HS

G'Day from upsidedown land. Its been a while since I was here last. I've got all of the adjustments just about perfect on my Colt, ( similar to Torro), and its running very sweetly indeed. Although I have the presser foot adjustment just right , as before I was leaving foot marks in the leather, I've often wondered how far does it go before it goes *pop*. Does it come out with such force that I end up with a hole in my shed roof, or is it not that dramatic? And is it easy to put back, in the event that it comes right out?? All the best Thanks heaps HS

I have recently been given the job of making some new leather straps/thongs for 2 sets of 'horse brasses'.The old ones were made of some kind of compounded cardboard made to look like 'feux leather' I enjoy making these as they look quite spectacular when they are finished. However, when it comes to cleaning the brasses before assembly, I do find that some of them have been covered in a laquer, ( GRRR) making it quite difficult to polish up.Some of the laquered brasses looked quite discoloured and untidy as a result. At first , to remove the laquer, I did try just using a bit of 'elbow grease' with some chrome polish first, ( as used on cars) as it is a mild abrasive, this stuff is a paste out of a tube , not an acidic liquid. 'Brasso' on its own wouldn't touch it.Using a machine buffer was not an option as that may be too harsh on intricate designs ,wording etc. But then , I'm thinking , the laquer is presumably polyeurethane based, so therefore ,actetone should disolve it. (I was in the fibreglass industry for 10 yrs.....that WAS helpful). And I was right, I placed the offending brasses in just a little bit of acetone in a china dish for a few minutes each. After taking them out, I used a little bit of chrome cleaner, just enough to remove the laquer, which has now softened up,.(I also used an old toothbrush for the fiddly bits) and I finished them with 'brasso'. They came up a treat. I hope this helps someone with a similar problem. I am open to other ideas All the best, HS

One of the machines that I have is a Pfaff 60 sewing machine for sewing upholstery leather, garment leather.Its not a leather machine, but a very strong domestic machine.(all metal) My Mother used to make all of our clothes on it when we were kids. ( now I have it ) I can sew up to 3 layers of upholstery leather, without the machine suffering, or labouring too much, and without affecting the stitch. I do use upholstery thread, much stronger than domestic thread, and a leather needle. And I give all the TLC that it needs. Happy sewing. HS

I now have 'hard' parts of my fingers where I've been hand stitching. I do on occasions have bandaids on my fingers......but thats mainly from using solvents and spirit dyes drying my hands out.(yeh yeh yeh...I should use moisturiser on my hands) Once upon a time when I first started handstitching, I used to hit the roof if I pricked myself with an awl or a needle. Now, when I prick myself , it's now a case of " yeh , whatever"....and carry on. I think over time our hands just toughen up with use....and perhaps ...abuse. all the best HS

G'Day from Western Australia, I've had numerous customers saying that I should put my wares on ebay, I 've seriously considered it a few times , but after reading some of the things that has happened here, well ...?... I'm not so sure now. I know I shouldn't be put off altogether by some bad experiences , however , in UK Rays case, Ray's done absolutely nothing wrong. I do hope everything works out really well for you mate .Good Luck!!!. Perhaps ebay is slowly losing its 'shine'? ...and maybe the guy in Nottingham might just get his comeuppence? All the best HS

No doubt you'll all get a great deal of love and satisfaction from these old mags, but the thought of selling them ???...........mmmmmmnup, I just couldn't....share the joy of working with leather perhaps, but never sell them.The fact that someone has created something very special from the very mags that I now have....and they have now been passed down to me .....theres something special in that The one with Ann & Al Stohlman on the cover I keep in a plastic sleeve. Enjoy All the best, HS

Thank you for your replies. Theres some wonderful history in these old mags, and not just the leathercraft, or the patterns, and lovely pics, but also the people in the mags that have the passion to create , something with their own hands. Before I received these mags, I got a bit of a 'leathercrafters block' ( perhaps a bit like writers block?). with all the books, patterns and leather in my workshop, I just could'nt for the life of me decide what make next. ....it happens I'm sure( Perhaps its just me) Now ...after I received this beautiful gift??? I can't wait to make 'this ,this or this'