EfrainBG

Thanks a lot, @eransh! You should come back to the dark side of the force... much like leather work, I find film developing and printing very relaxing and cathartic. I guess just being physically busy is what does the trick!

These are from Weaver, although I got an early batch of 1" #9s from Tandy. I found no difference between them, so I mixed them up in one box and haven't had a problem of incompatibility between brands... they're quite probably from the same manufacturer.

Maybe it was a different gauge, Rob. The ones shown in the beginning post are #9. IN the picture attached in this comment, I show you the #9 and its burr to the left and the #12 and burr to the right... As you can see, #9 is about 1 mm thick and #12 about 0.5 mm

Hi, everyone! Just wanted to share some advances I've made on setting cooper rivets. I've seen some amazing work on these rivets everywhere and I hadn't been able to replicate such results. I went and bought a couple of fancy hammers... well, not so fancy, actually... more on the cheap side. But, anyway, I just wanted to try different head shapes and weights. I also made a setter out of a punch marker (shown to the left of the photo). I cut the marker flat to about a 3/8" diameter flat head, drove a drill on the flat head and formed the dome with a Dremel. I used this tool first to round off the post after cutting it. Once rounded, I started flatenning and expanding the post with the first hammer in the photo from left to right. To finish the setting I used the hammer in the middle (which I rounded a bit) to start forming the dome right before using the setting tool again to get a more refined finish. I edited the next photo to exagerate a little bit the texture on the rivet's dome. The one to the right is just hammered down. The one on the left was smoothed down with a light pass of the setter. Have a nice day, everyone! Efrain

I remember reading somewhere in the forum several complains about customer service or product quality for this or that supplier. I think it's only fair to praise the ones who go beyond the call of duty to make up for mistakes on the customer side. This was the case today with Buckle Guy. I started putting things in the cart... as always, I select whatever comes my way that even remotely ressembles what I'm looking for and make up my mind in the end by updating the shopping cart right before the check out process. This time, though, I messed up. I deleted several of the items marked before but I made a mistake on the quantity in one item... of which I realised until I got my confirmation mail. Long story short, I contacted customer service asking whether the order could be corrected and even offered to take some merchandise to avoid the hassle of a refund for the difference. Not only did they make it possible, but they modified the order themselves and here I am, with a corrected order and happily waiting for my merchandise to come home. So, kudos to Buckle Guy for an excellent service!! Efrain. P.S: TO THE ADMINS: If this post doesn't belong here or violates in anyway the policies of the forum, please let me know and I'll take it down immediately.

thanks for the tip... do they go in any particular order?

Thanks a lot, Biker... resisting makes a lot more sense now. Now, about the balm: is it also diluted in water?

Hi, everyone! I recently purchased a couple of 4 Oz bottles of Resolene and Leather Balm with Atom Wax to add to my extensive portfolio of finishing options... that only include Tan Kote, besides the message mentioned earlier. My question is: can these products be used together, in different stages on the finishing of one piece of leather? or are they incompatible with each other? I will be dyeing my leather with Fiebing's Pro Oil Dye Dark brown, in case that makes a difference. I remember reading somewhere here that Resolene can be used as a resist before dyeing. if that's the case, what are the benefits of resisting vs not resisting? With just common sense as my ally, the term "resist" tells me that it's intended to affect the degree to which the rest of the products applied afterwards are absorbed into the leather. I know that mileage may vary depending on the type of leather used, the conditions under which the products are applied, etc., but it would be nice to know some of the experiences of other members since the combinations for trial and error are just a step away from endless. Thanks, Everyone!! Efraín.

Well, what'cha know??? there is a restriction to buy in PacCana: I can only have the items sent to an US address if I have a SSN or a Tax Id... neither of which is the case. I'll have to buy in Amazon or Ohio Travel Bag... not that big a deal, but man, those items sent from China do make a dent in the waiting times!!!

I'll look some more into it. Maybe there's a way around if I mail them.

Thanks again, Brian... I really appreciate the offer, but there's no point in asking for a sample. I already made some tests and I will eventually buy these... they do have them in Ohio Travel Bag and the other suggestions made here by other members. thanks for the tip! TinkerTailor... I researched and did call those companies, but they're mainly wholesale stores... Canvill looked the nicest of the two, and they have a Mexico sales rep, but they ask for a minimum of 4000 pieces or so... out of the question!! Pac Cana asked for several mandatory fields in their registration form that make me think they sell only to US citizens... hehe I might be better off buying the standard ones from Amazon or Ohio Travel Bag and call it a day. Durability was actually one of my concerns when I thought of this, but I figured if one of these can withstand several years of constant pressure on am undersized pair of jeans, they might do the job quite well. I actually made a test with one I took from an old Airzona jeans (plus a copper rivet I used to fix it in place since I screwed up the tack) and it behaves as expected... here's a shot of how I would use it. The strap with the button on it comes from below the bag, goes into the D-Ring attached to the strap coming from the flap of the bag and buttons in on itself.

That helps a lot, Brian!! I actually had in mind making the buttonhole just as a side please cut in the leather... pretty much the way these buttons are used on a pair of jeans. Would you care to share where did you get those buttons and whether there's the need for special tools to install them? Thanks a lot!!

Just as a reference, this is a link to show more precisely what I'm talking about: https://www.amazon.com/20mm-Grey-Silver-No-sew-Buttons/dp/B00EIOLPV2/ref=pd_sim_201_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00EIOLPV2&pd_rd_r=R4148HRBB4PKPN3D8HCS&pd_rd_w=k25pl&pd_rd_wg=QNvVN&psc=1&refRID=R4148HRBB4PKPN3D8HCS

Hi, everyone! I just woke up in the middle of the night with the idea of using a tack button as a closing or locking device on a bag I'm planning to do... with tack buttons (I don't know if the name is the same everywhere) I mean the kind of buttons you see in jeans and Levi's trucker jackets. Has anyone used these before? I've only been able to find some copies for popular jeans brands on Amazon, but all of them have plastic in the middle as a locking mechanism for the tack that hold them in place... besides, all I've been able to find has some sort of inscription or design engraved on the button face and I would like to use the plainest I can find to keep the bag as simple as posible... or maybe have them engraved with something more personal, like initials, personal logo, whatnot. Thanks in advance!!

I was thinking the same today... with whiskey, bourbon, cognac, oporto, champagne as color names someone could get misleaded and ask for a refund

Spirit dye... If I understand "spirit" correctly, that would be any alcohol based dye, right?

Well, Sir... again, thanks so very much! I guess it's only a matter of testing the stuff now.

Really beautiful work in there, TinkerTailor! I do have noticed a more even spread when using diluted dyes... not Fiebing's though. Maybe that's why I've noticed that film I talked about... who knows if these are really dyes or pigment or paint or whatever other stuff they're trying to pass as dye. When you buff off the residual dyhe, what do you do it with? just a clean rag or sheep skin or do you use some product? Thanks a lot for the prompt answer!

Hi, everyone! I'm planning on purchasing a 4 oz bottle of Fiebing's Professional Oil Dye (walnut). I have two questions: - First, what's the average coverage I can get from one of these bottles?... I understand it depends on how many coats I apply, but, for the sake of discussion, let's say I can get my target tone/color in two passes. - And, second, Do I HAVE TO dilute it if I'm going to apply it with a sponge or dauber? The description says "Use with Fiebing's Dye Reducer to thin for spray dyeing or dilute colors." - And an extra one that just came to mind: does this product leave the grain exposed or covered? (I've seen acrylic dyes leave a very thin kind of plastick-y film on top of the leather)

Amazing design and even more amazing execution!!

Boy, am I in trouble... I can't even draw the darn line!!!

Nice work there!! You seem to be on the right track. And yes, I have to agree with Bill on the sore hands thing... a pair of gardening gloves (the ones with sticky rubber fingers) help in reducing the strength required to pull the needles through the holes and also help to avoid your fingers get cut by the thread when putting some tension in the stitches.

Thanks a lot, Bigfoote and Richard! I really appreciate it!

Yes, they do sell only to large operations. They ask for a minimum of 100 sides of one color... they do have a couple of retailers in Mexico, but it seems they don't sell their premium products there... I'd guess they do have some sort of exclusive deals with several brands. If that's the real meaning of seconds, I know I don't want to buy one of those online... if ever, I'd need to see it in a brick and mortar store to decide first-hand. I'm navigating through the Hide House site now and starting to get the hang of it. Again, thanks a lot!

I found several sides of Horween Chromexcel at Maverick. They're marked as "Horween seconds"... what does this mean? Is it that they were mistreated in the store and come with scratches, scars, bites, etc? They're around the 3.50-5.50 dlls per square foot mark and the sides are about 18-22 sqft in area. I looked in The Hides House but I haven't figured out the site completely. I have yet to check the Hermann Oak in there, although for 200 dlls a side and the exchange rate I doubt that I can justify that cost for a personal project (i.e. the Mrs. would kick my ass all the way from here to the fifth floor in the Horween building in Chicago)