
shoepatcher
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Everything posted by shoepatcher
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pics??
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Brother LT2-838 not turning lower gears
shoepatcher replied to Winks's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Maybe Not hooked to a servo motor correct.? glenn -
Put the shuttle carrier shaft in the bushing and see if it wiggles. Is so bushing is worn and needs replacing. bushing are pressed in. My late father came up with a way to remove the bushing a with a nut, bolt and big washer. can remove old one and replace with new one with those 3 items. The shuttle carrier should just turn in the new bushing with out any wobble. To take the long drive rack out, there is a connecting screw in an access hole in the back. Screw #89. That release the long wrack. I normally have to pull the replaceable horn to replace the drive rack, The teeth on your drive rack look go. Chances are wear is in the drive pinion and the following pinion. I will also tell you the bell crank is probably worn as well. To replace that you have to take the end of the head off. 4 screws hold it on. You also have to drive the piston pin that connects to the needlebar out. It is a tapered pin that drives out from back to front. glenn
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Dremel the corners very light with a sanding disc. Dremel the corners very lightly with a sanding drum.; glenn
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yes the gap on the spring to the bobbin case. spring should fit tighter. glenn
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Brother LT2-838 not turning lower gears
shoepatcher replied to Winks's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
If still sewing backwards, the feed eccentric has to be 180 degrees out of adjustment. safety clutch out? glenn -
Loosen the lock screw on the spring and see if you can tighten the regular screw on the spring to increase the tension. Spring is up and seems to be catching on the thread. glenn
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Looking for info Pearson & Bennion A2 Leicester
shoepatcher replied to JLA1913's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Derust, clean, oil and see what you got.. she is an old girl. Missing cover plates. Alasdair got any threading info? glenn -
clean the machine up first and oil it good to see how it turns,\. Glenn
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Toyota Ls2 Ad3310 Or Adler 167-373?
shoepatcher replied to IslandMoose's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Push the lever down for reverse. glenn -
I have new levers C. glenn
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The 29K31 is a big bobbin long arm shoepatcher. Your part number is wrong. Singer did not make a 82202. They made a 82020 needle plate for the big bobbin. I have 82020 plates. Original Simanco plates unused or New old stock. Price is $55.00 plus shipping. I do not have that many. It is compatible with the 29K30 and 31 machines as well as later big bobbin Singers. Let me know if you want it. glenn
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SERVICE Manual for Adler 30-70 Patcher ?
shoepatcher replied to wintertree's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Send me pics of your bobbin winder please Amy. Lets see if you are missing anything. glenn -
Gears and rack are worn. Too much play in those areas from your video of the shuttle carrier. With no wear, the shuttle carrier should hardly move when you turn it by hand. You look at the drive pinion, following pinion, short rack and long rack for wear. Also check the bushing that the shuttle carrier shaft goes thru. You might have to replace all of those as well as the bellcrank. I have rebuilt shoepatchers for over 45 years so I know what areas to look at. glenn
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You can sew #138 on a Pfaff 335 but you must enlarge the hole in the feed dog and inner foot to accommodate the #138 thread. I also just touch the the corners of the space bar on the the machine. That is where the gap on the bobbin case is that the thread passes by the each stitch. 335 Pfaff do not have a bobbin case opener since they are a horizontal hook machine. glenn
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Any information on this PFAF 545 h4 6/01
shoepatcher replied to maxwell91's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
P means 4 motion drop feed. H4 is high lift. Probably using needle system #190 Nice machine glenn -
Timing A Singer 29K70 - Can Anyone Help?
shoepatcher replied to erbunker's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I have a manual written by Singer for the complete 29K70 shoepatcher. Will try to find it. glenn -
ok Your thread controller disc is off. It is just below the tension. Loosen the black screw and make sure it is in the center of the slot. Unwind the tension nut and take the beehive spring out Stretch the spring out grabbing each end of the spring. That will increase the tension in the spring when you put it back on and tighten it. By hand, turn the balance wheel and let us watch the hook pick up the top thread from the needle and let it come out the feed dog. Video needed of this. This will tell us if the bobbin case opener is set correctly. We can then tell you what we noticed is wrong. glenn
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Stitch length lever set at zero? pics please of machine glenn
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Constabulary stated earlier it was screw #544383 which is supposed to be the same as #237. Specs 9/64" x 40tpi. I would have bet it was metric since Singer changed a lot of parts and screws on the 29U series which was made in Japan not Kilbowie where all of the 29 machines were made after 1923. glenn
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Pics of the needle bar and the throat plate alignment. glenn
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Pfaff 545 Needle jamming on foot going forward
shoepatcher replied to john27's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
For Pfaff 335. First set stitch length to 0. Remove the little cover plate to the left of the reverse lever. There is a big straight slot screw behind it. Loosen screw and it will allow you to move the rock frame with needle bar inside it. You turn the balance wheel until towards you and bring needle just above the feed dog hole. Now center needle in feed dog hole. Tighten big screw so that it holds. Turn balance wheel and see if it is centered in feed dog hole. If good, tighten screw good and tight. If not, re loosen screw and re center the needle in the feed dog hole. Tighten everything up if centered. Replace cover plate and set stitch length to max. Turn wheel by hand to see if everything aligns. Now good to go. glenn -
Help with fixing an old Adler 30-1
shoepatcher replied to AsItTurnsOut's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
A lot of 30-1 parts no longer made. I have a lot of early 30-1 parts but in Michigan and they are not cheap. I would try to find a machinist to try and make you the end of the drive rack so with all the teeth plus some length. It then can be welded or pinned. I know for a fact the long rack no longer made for early 30 class. I even tried to have Adler make them. They would not. You can find used rings in Germany. The bell crank can still be ordered I believe. The lobes on the end are worn and could be welded up and re profiled. Nothing will be cheap. Great machines glenn miller