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equiss

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Everything posted by equiss

  1. I have tried resist and antique dye a few times, always with the same disappointing results.....why is this happening? I realize the pics aren't that great - but the best I can do. I put the resist on, let it dry, then applied the antique dye on a cloth, then rubbed it on the leather. The result is an uneven application - you can tell where I first dabbed the dye, and it didn't spread evenly...what can I do different? It is really disappointing to try so hard to tool something, then ruin it with dye. ARGH!
  2. Thanks Randy - actually I am looking for something that resembles a bar seat or chair seat or something like that maybe more - no numbers. I wanted it more "art" looking - mostly tooling.....then the center hole for the clock motor and hands. So I was thinking about a 1/2" of untoooled leather border, then a double line border 1/8" apart, then a circle of sheridan flowers around (fairly large - not too compact because my tooling still needs work) but maybe 5 -7 flowers however they would fit around the circle - then just do the center basket weave or background texture or something like that. I like your clock though - that is nice! Will post a picture this afternoon if I can figure out how to upload it... Charlene
  3. Hi John, not in too large of a hurry. I am thinking about 10" in diameter, my husband can make the wood piece it will be glued on. then about 1/2 " in, a double line (two lines 1/8" apart), then maybe a circle of flowers then basket for the middle.....I can draw out the circles, but that is about it unfortunately. Thank you for offering to help, every time I need a pattern, I have to plead for someone to draw one, granted this one is for something special...but I don't want to put any numbers on it (clock numbers), but an art piece - he can tell the time by looking at it :0) Thanks John, will draw something up tomorrow, you do beautiful work. I have all the books, including the drawing for the artistically impaired...I just can't get it all togethter- I am making some progress, but the rate I am going, I will be able to draw patterns when I am 90 (I am 40!)... Charlene
  4. VERY nice, they are beautiful!!
  5. thanks Natalie, will check it out - Celtic...that would be interesting....have never done that before.
  6. hello all - I can't draw sheridan to save my life - have been practicing, but am a long ways off being able to actually use anything I draw, but I am wanting to make a clock as well as a seat topper so could use the pattern for the same two items, but does anyone have a sheridan or other tooling pattern that they would be willing to share with me? My requirements are only that it is for a round clock. I was looking for something approximately 10" in diameter, but I can probably enlarge or shrink to make it approximately that size on my own. If anyone has anything they could share, I would sure appreciate it. My dad wants a clock for his birthday, and it is going to take several tooling tries to get it to look decent, but first I have to find a pattern! Charlene Stovin
  7. Well, I checked and the thread is still between the two disks; I have tightened the top thread adjuster down all the way as well, that makes no difference either. i can tighten it down all the way and it doesn't change anything. I checked to see if there was any thread caught in the bobbin shuttle or casing, nothing to be found....the instruction book isn't much help unfortunately - doesn't have much detail for when this would happen. The only thing I am wondering, there is a knee pedal under my table top that you can use to lift the presser foot, and for some reason a few times ago when I changed bobbins, it didn't get hooked back into the right place when I set the machine down, so it barely lifts the foot up, I have to use the lever on the back of the presser foot to lift it up rather than the knee lever under the table....can that have anything to do with this?
  8. I have a Consew 206RB-5 walking foot stitching machine I bought almost brand new, never had an issue with it until recently. Lately the stitching indicates that the bobbin tension is too tight, pulling the stitching down to the underside of the leather. I have tried to adjust the bobbin tenions with little or no change in stitching. I have adjusted it as loose as it will go and there is little change. The bobbin is threaded correctly, the machine is threaded correctly....I have checked those several time. anyone else have any other ideas on what to check? It has to be something simple, but this is getting irritating as #!@#@. I have work to get done and need my machine, but can't get the stitching figured out. Charlene
  9. Thank you to you both, you both do beautiful work....my tooling still needs work, but getting there - I think I better start with the can, then maybe the bag! Thanks for the offers to help, you'll be hearing from me
  10. I have never been able to inspect either of these items up close, but want to learn to make a rope bag (for headers and healers) and rope cans. I know that rope cans typically use the plastic rope cans you can buy, but then how much of them end up covered with tooled leather? Just the sides? any of the insides? Then the larger challenge, a rope bag with two sides, one for heading ropes and one for healing ropes. There are no patterns I can find for these, and I have only been able to inspect a few, not enough to go home and make one. Can anyone share a pattern and instructions on how to make one? Any information would be so grateful. I haven't been able to find much information about these items in books, and haven't seen many in my neck of the woods (Western Oregon), so I don't get much of a chance to study them up close and personal, but REALLY want to make them one of my next projects. thank you all Charlene
  11. NO way!! Osborne leather? Will check it out and order 10!! thank you, those that are right handed just really don't understand what a huge inconveniene it is to use a tool backwards! It just doesn't work - thanks again Charlene
  12. This question has been asked before, but for small detail work those of us that are left handed can't really use the right handed skivers effectively (or at least I can't). I have searched high and low asking all the large companies for anyone that can make a left handed skiver (talking the smaller hand held not the larger flat head) and can't find any. Does anyone have any leads to where a person could find one? There has to be one somewhere......
  13. Thank you that is kind of what I was wondering, I tried to keep it a reasonable distance, used a bisonnette (sp.) edger, but it runs almost over the stitching.... thanks again, will try 1/8 or so Charlene
  14. Maybe this goes in the saddlery area, not sure - but if I am making a headstall that is 5/8" wide strap to start with. How far in on each side do I measure for the stitching line, and then once I have measured where the stitching line is going to go, how far over from that do I measure to mark a line for the boundary for my tooling? Does that make sense? So, once stitched, I would have my edges beveled and cleaned up, then my stitching line, then a small space between my stitching line and my swivel knife cut for the boundary line where my tooling begins. Does anyone have recommended measurements for where these lines would start on a headstall that is 5/8" wide? thank you! charlene
  15. Hi Ken, I appreciate the post and will check that out, I have a lot of cow hide, but it is too thick for the application I need it for - I need hair on calf skin - it is a lot thinner than cow hide, but will see if they carry it- thanks
  16. i need a few pieces of approximately 5X7 hair on calf skin and can't afford right now to buy a whole hide, I don't care if it is brindle (dual brown exotic), brown and white, or blakc and white, or some of each....if anyone has some they wish to part with at a reasonable price, please PM me - Charlene
  17. I would like to learn to make my own, unfortunately....I am not creative (I am....but not at the start, I have to have something to work off of). I tried blowing up the Stohlman patterns, the D. Johnson patterns are not the style I like or want....I just need a basic set to work off of, once I have that and get the first one down and underway so I can learn what I don't like about it, then it all comes easier. I am not a visual person when it comes to doing things from scratch, I have to see it and handle it first, then be able to change it to fit my needs. It is the same for me with regular sewing. I am a good seamstress, but i can't do anything without a pattern, I have tried and tried to make my own to start with (clothing) but i can't do it...once I make a garment from a pattern, then I can modify it the way I like and make changes to it to make something similair but different, but I don't have the ability to do that from scratch - just not the way I am built. I wish it was. I have a saddle with a ground seat in it in my shop that has been sitting there for a year. I have tried and tried to make my patterns, they are not proportional, don't come out looking right, etc - so there it sits. I am so frustrated with trying to make just a starting pattern. I want to finish this saddle, but am really stuck. Charlene
  18. Hi there, I have been asking the same thing. Most people don't have the time to trace a set. I have offered to pay for a tracing just to get me started. I am not good for example of taking the stohlman books and blowing those patterns up to size partially because they are not the style I want. If I have the basic style, then I can modify it to what I need, but I am not good at redesign and "blowing" things up - just hasn't worked for me. If you find someone willing to help you, I would be willing to pay for a copy of your pattern tracings thank you Charlene
  19. equiss

    P1000087.JPG

    what is this made out of? It looks really interesting!
  20. Hello to Ponygirl - Hello - I was wondering if you ever got your saddle from Louis? We had him make one for me close to three years ago now, the saddle was not well made so he promised to make me another if I returned it. as per my first specifications. It has been over 2 years now since that time, we are out a saddle and the money that we paid him to make it.....he has contacted me, but keeps telling me he will do it, but I don't think we will see money or a saddle from him again, and it was a lot of money to not get back! So, just curious if you got your saddle?
  21. I would take a chance and take the whole tub if we can find an economical way to ship it in a flat rate USPS box (not the tub, but the entire contents) let me know if that is still an option if you don't want to take the time to inventory it all out. I will just take the chance and take it all. I know we should be able to flat rate ship it fairly inexpensively Charlene Stovin
  22. Thanks Steve, that is more what I am after...I have a Consew that will work fine, the 6 st. per inch helps. My toro is under construction and should be back soon, but the consew should be sufficient and is a walking foot with a good lift. The paper makes sense.....thanks, much appreciated. I put a lot of work into the leathers, hate to screw it up now!
  23. Hi there, not really Navajo pads....more like 100% new zealand wool - like www.mayatex.com are good examples. The warf/weft is fairly tight, but not as tight as navajo pads......some of mine that I have used only a few times have worn so you can see the cording through them, so I just have this feeling that stitch length is critical as well as maybe there needs to be some backing or ?? to help the stitching not to pull through - or maybe I am making a larger issue out of it than it needs to be? thanks again!
  24. Hi All, I have a question, I have been spending quite a bit of time on some custom wear leathers with some added bling, but had a question about sewing them to the wool woven show pads. Why don't they eventually pull through the wool pad? Why doesn't the stitching eventually pull through the wool pad, or is there precautions I can take to ensure that the wear leather and stitching do not pull through the wool? I could add bias tape to the back of the woven wool pad, but this would look pretty ugly (granted, most people don't care what the back side looks like, but I know this is not how other companies do it)....or do I even need to worry about this? I just want to make sure these are not going to come off by way of the wool show saddle pad not holding the stitching thanks all Charlene Stovin
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