Lobo

There are dozens of leather finishing products available, and just about everyone I know in this business has aq different preference. Some use acrylic sealant as a final finish. Some prefer wax-based finishes. Some prefer lacquer finishes. Some use commercial products. Some use their own formulations. One of these days I still intend to finish out a complete rig in the old-time method: neatsfoot oil in a pan, warmed over a heat source, beeswax melted in, applied with a swab or bit of shearling, then buffed out to a low luster. In theory, the oil penetrates while the suspended wax seals the surface, leaving a finish that is water resistant and resistant to abrasion and wear. Should work just as well today as it did 100 years ago. Better than all the modern products? Probably not, but certainly "period correct" for an old Colt Bisley Model revolver I have in my collection!

During the assembly stages of 2-layer holsters I treat them the same as single-layer. Form normally. Dye normally, When ready for finishing I like a modest application of neatsfoot oil to all exposed surfaces (interior and exterior) which can be done with a brush or rag. Then edges are burnished. Then sealant is applied. Then final finishes are applied. The key to all of it is allowing plenty of time between each step in the process. Dyes require 12 to 24 hours to set up. Neatsfoot oil requires 12 to 24 hours to penetrate and "settle in" to the leather. Acrylic sealants require several hours to set up (4 to 12, depending on temperatures and humidity, specific sealant used, etc). Final finishes also vary, but most will require 12 hours to cure out (assuming warm dry environment). Regardless of specific methods and products, trying to rush the process is probably the easiest mistake to make. All of these chemicals and compounds we are using can interact with each other in unpredictable ways, especially when we haven't allowed sufficient time for everything to set up properly.

Twin Oaks: Excellent post. Very clearly stated and darned good advice.

I think what the OP is referring to as a "filler" is what I call a "welt". In my opinion, the primary purpose served by the welt is adding strength and rigidity to the seam of the holster. A secondary benefit is allowing a bit more space within the holster along the seam(s), which permits moving the stitch-lines closer to the handgun profile for improved fitting. The welt will serve only a very limited purpose in reducing holster wear to the handgun finish. Holster wear is caused by abrasion. Unlined holsters with the flesh-side of the leather inside can produce more abrasion than a holster with lining of either smooth or soft leather, which reduces abrasion for better protection of the handgun finish. In my experience, holster wear results from two things. First is drawing and holstering the handgun. Second is movement of the handgun within the holster during normal activities. So there are two approaches to reducing holster wear. First is a good close fit of the holster to the handgun, reducing or eliminating movement of the handgun within the holster. Second is a holster lining that reduces abrasion, both during normal movement and when the handgun is drawn and inserted. Holster linings are usually done with either smooth or suede leather. Both will do the job, and both are in demand by people having strong preferences for one over the other. My personal preference has always been for a smooth leather holster lining because smooth leather does not tend to collect dust, grit, and debris over time like the open nap of suede leather will do (and some of that grit can be damaging to the handgun finish, embedded in the suede and abrading the finish again and again). The soft leathers typically used in holster linings are invariably chrome-tanned (or other chemical tanning processes). This carries with it the issues of residual chemical salts remaining in the leather. These chemical salts can be very corrosive, capable of etching even stainless steels, and can certainly result in rusting of carbon steels (thus pretty much all handguns). Leather holsters and other leather products have a natural tendency to absorb and retain moisture (from the atmosphere, from precipitation, or from the user's perspiration). That moisture causes the residual chemical salts to go into solution, thus subjecting the handgun finish to a constant corrosive bath. If using soft leathers for holster linings I recommend removing that the handgun never be stored in the holster, removing the handgun from the holster after each day's use, and wiping it down with an oily rag or silicone-treated cloth. Holsters should be stored separately in an area having air flow to allow residual moisture to evaporate away between uses (otherwise mold and mildew can become a problem). Another approach to holster making provides the benefits of a holster lining while eliminating the issues of chemical salts. The holster body can be constructed of two layers of veg-tanned leather (no chemical salts) cemented flesh-side to flesh-side, and stitched at the edges. The holster will have a smooth interior and exterior. Depending on the application I use 5/6 oz. laminated to 4/5 oz., or 6/7 oz. laminated to 5/6 oz. Resulting holsters are exceedingly strong and rigid, form beautifully, and retain forming better than any single-layer holster of any weight. This approach is not cheap (double the leather per holster) and takes considerably more time (cutting two pieces, cementing, stitching, edging, etc), but the results are very satisfying. I am attaching several photos of holsters made in this manner including a western style with welted seam and others with welts contoured to the handgun.

Customer specified left-hand, I cut a right-hand. My attention is interrupted while stitching and I drop a few stitches off the line. Dyeing blacks and splash a little dye onto the browns or tans. While finishing a holster I find a small imperfection (scar, etc) that becomes very visible after finishing. Drop one on the floor, step over to pick it up and unintentionally kick it across the room and scratch it. Lots of things can happen. For the most part they just go into a box until I can deal with them. Those that are serviceable go into the "clearance sale" at discounts reflecting the overall lack of perfection, and someone always buys them. Overall, I would estimate about 4 to 5 percent of all production (one in 20 to 25 pieces). Added a "clearance" page to the website about a year ago, specifically to deal with these items. At that time I had about 60 pieces or so. Just about everything sold in a couple of months, and we have continued adding one or two per week. Now we are pulling at mid-production, as things are detected, and offering those items completed and finished to order (finish color, etc). This has added several thousands of dollars in overall sales, so it ain't all such a bad thing.

The holster shown in your photo is of basic two-panel pancake construction, having stitching to join the front and rear holster panels along the outline of the pistol. This creates points at which the holster can flex when pressure is applied. The IWB-style holsters are constantly under pressure from the waistband & belt and the user's body. When the handgun is removed it is to be expected that the holster will flex inward to some degree from those pressures. Adding another panel of leather on one side or the other will not change this; if anything the added leather panel can be expected to increase pressures applied to the holster due to additional bulk. In order to be truly effective holster mouth reinforcement must pass completely around the holstered handgun to eliminate or minimize mouth collapse under pressure, reinforcing from front to rear. The reinforcement may be of leather, molded thermoplastic (Kydex, etc), metal, or other substantial materials (or combinations of materials). In every case there will be one common factor, and that is additional bulk in the holstered handgun "package". Pancake-style holster construction does not readily allow for effective mouth reinforcement. Scabbard-style holsters can be easily reinforced. The intended purpose of holster mouth reinforcement is to ease holstering of the handgun. When applied to IWB-style holsters it is possible to achieve the intended goal, but only by significantly increasing the bulk of the holster. Other factors must also be taken into account with IWB-carry such as the proximity of the trouser waistband and the cover garment(s), which can also interfere with holstering of the handgun. Whenever a customer expresses a requirement for ease of holstering, one-hand holstering, etc, my response is a recommendation to consider any type of holster other than IWB-style. Everything in holster design involves compromises among the 4 basic factors of comfort, accessibility, security, and concealment. Whenever one factor is emphasized there will be compromises in the other factors. Only the user can decide which factors are more important for his needs and how much compromise he is willing to accept in the other factors. IWB-style holsters emphasize concealment by keeping the bulk of the handgun inside the trousers. This comes with inevitable compromises in accessibility (ease of drawing or holstering the handgun) as well as comfort (for many users). Increasing bulk necessarily decreases concealment and comfort (the two major attributes of IWB-style holsters). IWB carry is useful for many people, but there simply is no way to carry in this manner and have the same levels of comfort and accessibility offered by other holster types. As an aside, years ago a customer requested that I make a holster similar to the one shown in the OP's photo (two belt clips mounted fore-and-aft of the handgun). I do not regularly offer that design, but this was a repeat customer requesting some special attention, so I went out of my way to complete HIS IDEA of the "perfect holster" for him. A few weeks later a very angry customer contacted me; it seems his wife was very upset with him about the scratches left on an expensive dining room chair by his belt clips, and he actually demanded that I pay for the damage caused by HIS IDEA of the "perfect holster" for him. I have little doubt that if I offered an IWB-style holster of pancake design with slabs of leather stitched on one panel or the other (or both) as reinforcement I would soon be hearing from customers upset because their "reinforced" IWB holster was no easier to holster the handgun in than one without reinforcement. My $0.02 worth.

The tanning methods used will differ from one "exotic" to another, and where in the world your hides are coming from. Every hide is different, and every tanning method produces different results (sometimes even at the same source, depending on solution strengths, immersion times, temperature, ambient humidity, and how the workers hold their tongues during the process). Then every piece will react differently to every different sealer and finish applied (again time, temperature, humidity, and other factors may result in variations). Next, you are applying your exotic onto a veg-tanned leather holster body, so there could be some residual chemical reactions taking place (maybe only under some conditions of time, temperature, humidity, etc). Finally, you inserted a piece of "foam" (probably a synthetic rubber compound of some type) which may have added to the mix with chemical reactions. The only "for sure" method I know of is to test small pieces or scraps of everything to be used in a project with every dye, sealant, oil, and finish to be used, both individually and in combinations. Even then, the tests you perform this week for a project may result in different effects with the same materials on another day with differing temperatures, humidity, etc. The piece you finish and deliver this week is very likely to look a bit different a year or two from now. Leather is also photoactive, reacting to some types of light. Sunlight can be counted on to darken many leathers when exposed, with no way to predict actual results over lengthy periods of time. I have noted similar effects in leather exposed to fluorescent shop lights for extended periods. I do all of my dyeing and finishing processes in house using both commercial and proprietary products. I make a strong point of informing every customer that variations will occur, that final finish colors and shadings are expected to vary from hide to hide and from batch to batch, and that I will not guarantee a specific result. When a customer starts insisting on a specific result (such as matching a new piece to a prior production of my own or someone else's) I have learned that this is a good time to walk away from the project.

Perfectly safe until the user tries to holster the pistol with his finger inside the trigger guard. Some say there's no cure for stupid. I'm not so sure about that. My $0.02 worth.

Steel springs must be configured to the exact dimensions required, then heat-tempered to perform as required. Any attempts to change the shape after tempering will adversely stress the metal and create a weak point subject to failure over time. In short form, looking for a standard production product is highly unlikely to produce what you want, and having what you want made to your specifications is likely to cost many times what you can charge for the holster project. Unless you are ready to mass produce shoulder holsters with spring-steel closures there is little point in going any further. You will need to order in quantities of hundreds, or thousands, of identical items to achieve any economy that will allow for holster production. And every holster for every handgun will require a different spring configuration (sure, several 4" DA revolvers may be served with the same spring, and a few similar profile semi-auto pistols may be served with the same spring, but realistically you are looking at dozens of different springs to fill any segment of the market). One-of-a-kind orders might be filled starting with a supply of good high-carbon steel in various gauges, cut to the specific shape required, then heated with a forge and bellows to bright cherry-red-to-glowing-white and quenched in water or oil. Shouldn't take more than a few dozen attempts to get something that might work. While you are working on that part of your project I'll be completing a couple of dozen other orders. Now, of course, someone will come along and tell you about their source for springs that can be cut and bent to any shape and work just fine for your purpose. You may want to speak with a metallurgist about the science involved before spending the money. A few years ago I spent over 1-1/2 years trying to get some simple belt clips made to my specifications (spring steel, specific opening size and contours, etc). I finally found a manufacturer, but it took a lot of my time and quite a bit of my money to make it happen. Even then the initial order was for 1,000 pieces, paid for in advance of production. Fortunately, that holster design took off well and I'm making several hundred per year; but it might have gone the other way. Best regards.

When I first offered the new Combat Classic holster design a few months ago one of the optional features was holster mouth reinforcement. While the two-layer construction of the Combat Classic holster body really needs no reinforcement, some folks seem to be convinced this is necessary so it is offered. The mouth reinforcement provides opportunities for decorative effects as well. Customer inquired about having one made with window-pane inlay of diamondback rattlesnake, along with a matching cartridge carrier. Voila! Made for the 3" S&W Model 36 revolver.

The 1911 pistols are being, or have been produced, by dozens of large and small manufacturers over the years. There have been any number of differences in dimensions, even among the so-called "mil-spec" pistols. The Pistol, U.S. Army, Model of 1911 was designed by John M. Browning for Colt Patent Firearms Manufacturing Company. The original 1911 pistols were manufactured by Colt (1912 to 1927, with some residual assembly of existing parts for several years) and also by Springfield Armory (the original US government arsenal, not today's Springfield Armory), Remington-UMC, North American Firearms (Canada). In 1927 a number of small changes were ordered, resulting in the US Model 1911A-1, as produced by Colt, Remington-Rand, Ithaca, Union Switch & Signal Corporation, and Singer during WW2 (with some parts contracted to others including Savage, Little Manufacturing, Risdon, General Shaver, and many others). The same design continued in production after WW2 as the Colt Government Model, later joined by the Commander/Combat Commander, Gold Gup, Ace, Service Model Ace, .38 Super Automatic, Officers Model, Delta Elite, Defender, and others including the modified Model 1991A1. One of the requirements for all military contract pistols was that every part in every pistol be interchangeable with those of every other pistol, regardless of manufacturer. Had that remained the standard there would be less difficulty for us today, but even that would not have solved the issues raised by the booming market in customized 1911 pistols from the 1960's onward, with dozens of shops customizing and building pistols from parts available from military surplus and after-market sources. In the shop I regularly use 8 dummy guns from various sources. My personal collection includes 28 pistols dating from 1914 to 2013 manufacture. There are still pistol variations that I cannot match. Probably the most obvious dimensional differences are in the length of the barrel/slide group. Originally a 5" barrel was standard, but there have been production pistols with barrels from 3" to 7" produced. Also, different manufacturers do not make these parts to the same actual dimensions; the quoted measurement is a nominal number rather than the as-built dimension. Some pistols utilize a barrel bushing while others do not, and the dimensions of the barrel bushings vary considerably. Some of the earlier Springfield Armory pistols incorporated a larger than standard dust cover, and quite a few of those pistols were produced and continue to be used. Some makers offer flat-top slides, rather than the rounded-top of the original pistols. Even without the flat-top feature the radius of slides from different manufacturers can vary quite a bit. Other models exist with slab-sided slides, or dust covers extending to the muzzle end of the slide. Several offer double-stack magazine models, with completely different grip-frame dimensions. One of the most common features on the more modern production pistols has been the use of larger than standard ejection ports, and the actual size and contour of the ejection ports vary widely from one maker to another. A holster closely fitted to a pistol having an enlarged ejection port will not accept the earlier original mil-spec pistols. Accessory rails have become common and most makers offer this option. However there is no commonality in rail dimensions. Size, shape, and contours of the thumb-safeties, slide releases, magazine releases, grip safety tangs, hammers, and sights vary widely from one manufacturer to another. Standard round trigger guards and squared-off and hooked versions exist. These areas are also complicated by the hundreds of after-market accessory parts offered by different companies. For the owners of custom made pistols or any of the highly modified production pistols shopping for holsters my usual recommendation is a custom shop, as no regular production holsters will fill the need. Unless the holster maker resides within the customer's state of residence this requires compliance with all federal, state, and local laws pertaining to firearms transfers. Shipping a pistol twice, with insurance coverage during transit and while in the holster maker's custody, and FFL dealer transfer fees usually exceed the value of any production holster. Also, custom holster production takes far more time for design, patterning, prototype or mock-up to finalize the pattern, etc, than the production of any holster to a standardized pattern. The total of costs involved will exceed the market value of many production pistols, so this is a very narrow slice of the holster maker's overall marketplace. To the OP's question about which handguns or dummies might work for the broadest range of production pistols my response is that this will depend on the customer's definition of "how close is close enough". The owner of a one-of-a-kind custom pistol in which thousands of dollars have been invested might not shy away from spending several hundred more on a perfectly fitted holster. The owner of one of the more obscure production variations might react differently. All of these things may be resolved with the innovations in 3-D printing technology. With the proper equipment it is now possible to scan a pistol, store the details digitally, transmit that data via e-mail attachment, and make a nearly perfect replica anywhere. Unfortunately, for now the up-front expenses involved are beyond the means of most folks, especially for a one-off project. Best regards.

We are now offering 12 holster designs, with or without 4 common options, in 4 finish colors, left-hand and right-hand, for 145 different handguns. This results in about 70,000 possible variations. I have not counted the patterns that I now have in file, but I estimate about 10,000, and new patterns are still being created every week. I have two more new designs ready for the market, but haven't found the time to put up new webpages, photos, etc, and I know that each will result in the need for 20-plus hours of work to generate all the patterns necessary for production. We are completing about 2,000 orders per year for customers in all 50 US states and 33 other countries so far. So, at the current rate of production it would take about 35 years to make one of everything to have in-stock inventory, and then only if we sold nothing for 35 years. Everything produced is to fill an order that has been confirmed and paid for before leather is cut. All orders are taken via e-mail, providing a written record (I spend an average of about 4 hours throughout the course of each day reading and responding to e-mails, acknowledging orders, answering questions, updating the website, etc). I do not take telephone orders or inquiries. No walk-in customers. While in the shop we are working, and interuptions eat time that can never be replaced. Average price per item produced is about $78. Average cost per piece (materials, supplies, hardware, packaging, shipping) is about $12. My prices are not at the top of the market, nor at the bottom. Cowhide is all Hermann Oak, horsehide is all Horween's, and I don't think there is any better. We average one completed product for every 47 minutes spent in production work, so about 31 man-hours per week. Since I also spent 30-plus hours doing admin functions that means a typical work week of 60-plus hours. How are we doing this? 1. We work in batches of similar items, usually 10 to 15 pieces at a time at each stage. Each order proceeds in a plastic tray (restaurant type, just like they serve sandwiches and fries in). There are typically 3 production batches per week. Dyeing, burnishing, finishing, hardware, and packaging are done once per week. 2. Everything is cut by hand using heavy duty scissors. Average time per piece is about 7 minutes. (NOTE: with average production of 40 pieces per week this amounts to 4 hours 40 minutes spent in cutting. This is the maximum possible time savings possible with press and clicker dies). 3. Everything is assembled by hand, cemented and clamped. Average time per piece is about 5 minutes. (NOTE: as a practical matter we usually cut, assemble, cement, and clamp before proceeding to the next piece. This minimizes fatigue and allows plenty of time for cement to set up before proceeding to stitching). 4. Everything is stitched on a powered stitcher (Leather Machine Company Cobra Class 4). Average time per piece is about 5 minutes. Belts take more time, especially those with fancy stitch patterns, while pouches and other smaller items take very little time. Overall, a single production batch of a dozen or so pieces will be stitched up in an hour. 5. After stitching each piece has the edges dressed off using drum sanders mounted in a benchtop drill press. Depending on the contours we use sanding drums of 3/4", 2", and 3" diameter. Then the edges are beveled. Average time per piece is about 2 minutes. 6. Dye stations are set up for each color and all dyeing is done at this point using both brush and spray application. Average time per piece is about 3 minutes. All dyed pieces are allowed to sit overnight or longer prior to forming, allowing the dyes to set up. 7. We set up for forming holsters, bring the oven to temperature (120-130F) and the drying hot box (104-108F). Forming and boning are done sequentially, usually in 3 cycles of forming/boning with about 8 to 10 minutes at a time in the oven between, then into the drying hot box when ready. Average time per piece is about 10 minutes (actual labor, drying time not included, and everything will remain in the hot box for about 3 to 5 hours after each batch is done). 30 to 40 pieces take a day's work to complete, although I frequently do half one day and half the next. Once they are in the hot box I can do other production work while they finish drying, and they can stay in the hot box for many hours if I am doing other things. 8. First step in finishing is a modest application of neatsfoot oil, done with a brush and rags. Average time per piece is about 1 minute, 30 to 40 minutes for a week's production. 9. Edges are then burnished. We use a 50-50 mixture of beeswax and paraffin wax rubbed liberally on all edges, then burnish using a hard felt polishing wheel running on a benchmount drill press (1700RPM). Average time per piece is about 3 minutes, 1.5 to 2 hours for a week's production. 10. Acrylic sealant is applied using both swab and spray application. Average time per piece is about 1 minute, 30 to 40 minutes for a week's production. 11. Final finish is applied using both swab and spray application. Average time per piece is about 3 minutes, 1.5 to 2 hours for a week's production. 12. Hardware (snaps, buckles, etc) are installed using hand tools. Hardware tested for proper function. Average time per piece is about 2 minutes, 1 to 1.5 hours for a week's production. 13. Products are packaged for delivery. This includes a product identification card with instructions & warranty information, plastic bag, padded mailers with mailing labels. Average time per piece is about 5 minutes, 2.5 to 3 hours for a week's production. As can be seen the only power equipment we use is the stitcher and benchtop drill press. Changing over to clicker dies and press for cutting would cost me about $500,000 to $600,000, or about 3 to 4 times gross annual sales. Assuming that this would reduce my cutting time by half, the savings would be about 3.5 minutes per piece produced. At 2,000 products annually this would amount to 116 hours 40 minutes annual time savings in return for a half-million dollar investment. At a labor cost of $30 per hour it would take about 142 years to ammortize the investment, assuming there will never be a need for additional clicker dies, or for repair/replacement of the press. Please note that all of this applies only to my little operation. Another maker, perhaps producing 100 different products might get into press and clicker die cutting for much less investment, say $8,000 to $10,000. Adding another single product or variation would require only $60 or $80 for a new clicker die. In my opinion there is much to be gained by breaking the work down to stages and performing each stage with multiple pieces. This minimizes the time spent setting up equipment and workspaces for each project, and breaking down after each, again and again. Cement takes an hour to set up. Dyes take 12 to 24 hours to set up. Finishes take 12 to 24 hours to set up. Working in batches allows plenty of time for these processes to take place while we are being productive doing other things. I know that if we worked on only one order at a time, from start to finish, we would never get 40 per week out the door. There are other things that can be done to keep things moving along. About 20% of my business is belts, and I know that we will always need 10 to 20 straps (two-layer belts) of various lengths every week. So every time I receive a shipment of leather one of the first things I do is to lay out each side and cut 6 or 8 straps, diagonally from back to belly, in target lengths of 50" and 60". With natural variations in the hides this usually yields straps of 46" to 54" and from 56" to 64" or so, allowing belts to be put together quickly and with minimal waste. The resulting pieces are a little less than half-sides, which are much easier and handier to lay out for cutting holster and pouch patterns later. Once a side is laid out for cutting it takes only a few minutes more to cut 6 or 8 straps than it takes to cut 1 or 2 for a single belt. I usually order 8 to 10 sides at a time due to storage space limitations, and we use about 60 sides per year, so I will spend a couple of hours cutting belt straps once every 6 to 8 weeks rather than wrestling with a side to cut a strap or two every day. Hardware, thread, and other supplies are purchased in quantities to last 6 months to a year. This avoids time lost when we run out of something and have to wait for a delivery (ever notice that your supplier tends to backorder only when you REALLY NEED something?). I keep a running inventory of everything we use, and when anything gets down to a 2 or 3 months supply I know that it is time to reorder. Dyes and finishes are purchased by the gallons, much less expensive than smaller quantities. Snaps, T-nuts, screws, Chicago screws, etc, are purchased by the thousands. Belt buckles are purchased by the hundreds. Packaging and mailing supplies are purchased by the thousands (and cost MUCH less than going to an office supply store). We have 5 permanent work stations set up for cutting, assembly, stitching, edging, etc. These are used every day. We usually dye, seal, finish, install hardware, package and ship only once per week so those functions are done on temporary work stations that include the work benches and folding tables that can be out of the way the rest of the time. Finishing and hardware take up 3 to 4 hours one day, then everything sits overnight to cure out, and the following morning everything can be packaged and ready to deliver in a couple of hours or so. Keeping tools and equipment organized and ready to use at each stage of production saves untold amounts of time searching for this or that, trying to remember where it was last used, etc. My assistant and I each have a full set of all basic tools so we never have to borrow from each other or hunt around. Emptying trash cans before they are overflowing avoids interuptions of the work while trying to find someplace to throw the scrap from the bench. Over and above everything else that can be done, it is my opinion that nothing is more efficient than eliminating interuptions while we work. No TV in the shop (radio in the background is OK, I prefer Limbaugh or Hannity but Mindy likes country western).Telephone calls or people walking in with questions (or just to chit-chat) and other distractions will eat up more time than any kind of automation or machinery can make up for. Best regards.

My reply would be: $50 per hour plus materials and supplies, and no guarantees on the results. Time would include researching whether or not a snake skin soaked in formaldahyde can be successfully tanned, what method of tanning would produce a usable leather, researching sources for the necessary tanning supplies, placing orders, accepting deliveries, every step of the tanning process, and the making of the holster. When Mr. Customer wants to know how much the project will cost tell him the truth, which is that you won't know until the job is done. Just off the top of my head I'm thinking it would eat up at least 20 or 30 hours to get it done, and I don't have that much time to spend on a somewhat "iffy" job. A non-refundable retainer of around $1,000 and hold his pistol until the balance is paid sounds about right.

For many years this was a part-time sideline business for me. About 7 years ago I started marketing on-line and put up a website. Since then my "area" has included all 50 US states and 32 foreign countries so far. I have moved 3 times into larger production facilities and I have hired and trained an assistant. There has always been 6 to 10 weeks of work on the board. Business is a little slower this year than last year, but all that really means to me is that I might get to take a little time off now and then. Over the past 7 years the only time I've had away from the shop has been 2 days for an old friend's funeral, 2 days fishing with a grandson, and 3 hospital stays totaling 7 days. Other than that I've been at the bench 7 days per week every week just to keep up with demand. If you are not receiving the response from the marketplace that you think your products deserve perhaps it is time to think about how you are presenting your products to the public. Best regards.

I've been using the Cobra Class 4 for four years now. Great machine, low maintenance, greater capabilities than I will ever require so I am never using the machine to capacity and it handles everything easily. Leather Machine Company delivered mine set up with #277 bonded nylon. I have used that exclusively for both top and bottom threads and find that it does an excellent job for all of my holster, belt, and pouch needs including some that involve 5 or 6 layers of leather to be stitched through.

If you are doing your forming and boning work prior to dyeing you can expect some difficulty in getting good dye penetration. The forming and boning results in considerable stretching and compression of the leather fibers, so some areas will be more dense than others and dye penetration may be uneven. Also, dip-dyeing after forming and drying can result in some shrinkage, sometimes enough to interfere with holster fit to the handgun. This can be overcome only by reforming the holster, or by using the "plastic bag trick" (place the pistol in a plastic bag and force it into the holster, then leave it for several hours or overnight; this usually results in just enough stretching to achieve a serviceable fit and allow for break-in use). Suggest that you do all of your dyeing prior to forming or boning, allowing plenty of time for the dye to penetrate and set up before proceeding (several hours at least, overnight is best). One of the easiest mistakes to make is rushing the work, not allowing sufficient time for drying, dye setting, sealant and finishes to cure, etc. In my shop we do everything in batches of 10 to 12 pieces at a time, cutting followed by assembly, followed by stitching, then dyeing, then forming, then edges, sealant, finish, hardware installation, packaging for shipment. This always allows 24 hours or more between each process. Best regards.

In holster construction welted seams can serve a couple of purposes. The welt can add considerably to the strength and rigidity of the finished holster by reinforcing the seamed edge. A welt can allow some extra space to the holster interior that permits moving the stitch-line closer to the handgun profile without requiring the very sharp and abrupt forming that a similar holster without welt might require. Several of my holster designs utilize welts, which I usually cut from 7/8 oz. cowhide, and some designs can benefit from a doubled welt. I recently made a duty holster for a local police officer (left-handed and having a newly introduced pistol that no holsters are readily available for). Used a holster body constructed of two layers of 5/6 oz. cemented and stitched together and a doubled welt of 7/8 oz. Stitching the seams involved 6 layers of leather, about 1/2" thick. The result was an extremely sturdy and rigid holster (laminating layers of leather seems to have an effect similar to plywood, with multiple layers yielding strength greater than a single layer of equal thickness). I doubt the new owner will ever have to worry about wearing it out. As for leather weights to be used, I usually make my selections based upon the overall size and weight of the intended handgun, the intended function of the holster, and whether or not the holster will be lined. Speaking very generally, the smaller and lighter handguns can usually be accomodated well with a 6/7 oz. holster body, while medium size & weight handguns may require a 7/8 oz., and the heavier handguns may be better served with 8/9 or heavier. In the shop I always have 5/6, 6/7, 7/8, and 8/9 on hand for various uses (holsters, pouches, belts). Most unlined holsters are made in 7/8 oz., and lined holsters are frequently made of 6/7 oz. with a lining of about 3 oz. weight, which has worked well for most applications.

The wet-forming process involves a considerable amount of stretching of the leather fibers. As the leather dries the leather will contract a bit. Applying dyes includes adding moisture, and the resulting drying can cause a bit of shrinkage. After oiling, sealing, and final finishes are applied and fully dried, try putting the gun (or dummy) into a plastic grocery bag, then force it into the holster and leave it for several hours. The fit should be nearly perfect and ready for break-in use.

Horsehide is considerably more dense than cowhide. This provides equal strength with less bulk, as well as greater resistance to moisture infiltration. These attributes make horsehide a good choice for use in holsters when bulk and moisture resistance are considerations (particularly IWB-style and shoulder holsters). There is a learning curve to overcome. When you start working with horsehide you will find that some methods that work well with cowhide will not work the same with horsehide. In the shop we routinely soak holsters in water for forming, and cowhide usually requires only a few seconds of immersion (about 1 second per "ounce" of leather weight is typical) to become sufficiently pliable for initial forming. Horsehide holsters can require soaking in water for 30 minutes or more before they can be formed, and the heavier pieces of horsehide can remain very firm and a bit difficult to work even after longer immersion. The application of some heat during the forming process can help to make the horsehide form more easily (about 105 to 110F while the horsehide is wet seems to be about right). Generally speaking, my experience has been that horsehide of about 2 "ounces" less weight will provide results comparable to cowhide of about 2 "ounces" greater weight. Also, the horsehide products are usually more firm and rigid after forming. Each "ounce" in leather weight equates to approx. 1/64" thickness, so a reduction of 2 "ounces" on each side of a holster is about 1/16" in overall thickness (bulk reduction), or about 1/2 the thickness of an 8-oz. piece of cowhide. The weight of leather selected for a holster can be different for various holster styles and for different handguns. Larger and heavier handguns will usually benefit from thicker and stronger leather in the holster body, while smaller and lighter handguns can be supported by lighter weights of leather. I would suggest that you start off with a small quantity of both weights. After doing a few projects with each you will have a better feel for which would be most suitable for a given project. If you are ordering the horse butts you will find that the thicknesses will vary considerably in each piece, with the center sections generally being at or close to the stated weight and the ends and edges usually thinner. Selecting specific portions to lay out your patterns can allow you to make use of most of the leather for different needs. We generally use horsehide of about 5/6 oz. for most IWB-style holsters and find the results to be good. A couple of belts that I made with two layers of the same weight horsehide about 4 years ago continue to wear like iron. There never seems to be enough good quality horsehide to reliably get all that we might like to have. Only one North American tannery produces veg-tanned horsehide (Horweens) and most of the production is dedicated to the shoe making trade, baseballs, and others. Since adding horsehide products several years ago I have found it best to place orders well in advance of when I expect to run low, otherwise there could be extended periods during which I could not produce orders as received. I have generally limited the use of horsehide to IWB-style and shoulder holsters largely for this reason.

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Moisture is a factor that will always be a concern with IWB-style carry. Perspiration is probably the primary source (along with salt and other mineral contents), and climate conditions including elevated temperatures and humidity can also be factors. Higher temperatures can produce more perspiration. Higher ambient humidity allows less evaporation will take place naturally. Horsehide is typically more resistant to moisture infiltration than cowhide, however it is not impervious to moisture and will absorb some, although more slowly than cowhide will. Anything utilized in holster construction that inhibits moisture infiltration will also tend to hold any moisture present inside the holster, so there may be unintended consequences involved with some methods or materials. The best advice I can provide to IWB-style holster users is to remove the holstered handgun at the end of each day's use, remove the handgun and wipe it down with an oily rag or silicone treated cloth, and leave the holster in an area having good airflow to permit any moisture retained to evaporate away prior to the next use. I do not know of anything that might be called a complete or ideal solution. Those who choose to use IWB-style holsters will just have to learn to deal with it.

The person working on one project at a time can usually find any number of methods for getting the job done. In my shop we are working on multiple production batches, usually 10 to 12 items per batch and 3 to 4 batches over the course of a week. So we have developed a process that keeps everything moving smoothly. When a batch of a dozen holsters has been cut, assembled, stitched, edges dressed and beveled, dyed, and allowed to thoroughly dry and set up, then we start forming. Step one is immersion in water (room temperature). Then the forming piece (dummy or actual handgun) is forced into the holster and roughly formed to shape and contour. While doing this another holster goes into the water. Then the holster goes into a convection oven at lowest setting (150F) with the door propped open about 1/2" or so (preheated to avoid temperature spike during start-up) for about 8 to 10 minutes. During that time the next piece is rough-formed and another goes into the water. The first holster comes out of the oven and is closely formed using a few simple tools. Then it goes back into the convection oven for another 8 to 10 minutes. Continue on with the others in the cycle. After the second trip through the convection oven the first holster is usually ready for detail boning (if still too damp to take the boning it can go back into the convection oven for another cycle) using a variety of specialized tools. That one is then ready for the hot box (see prior post, cabinet with rheostat-controlled 100W bulbs as heating elements). My hot box has a capacity up to 12 pieces, so over the course of about 2 hours everything has been formed and boned, then hung in the hot box. One to two hours in the hot box is generally enough, but there is nothing wrong with leaving everything there for several hours. That time is spent starting another batch (cutting, assembly, stitching, edges, dyeing, etc). When they come out of the hot box they are generally ready to proceed with oiling and finishing. However, we just lay them out on benches until everything for that week's production has been done before proceeding. That way we only need to set up for finishing work once per week, after which we usually have from 30 to 50 pieces ready for packaging and delivery. Probably the easiest mistake to make in the shop is to try and rush a project through. Cements need to completely set up before anything else can be done. Dyes require time to set properly. These things should never be pushed. All day is better than a couple of hours, and overnight is usually better than all day. This has worked very well over the years. If I ever need to "stiffen up" a holster more than the results of these methods provide I will probably try crushing a few of those little blue "V" pills and disolving them in my forming water.

Many people have ideas in their heads about what they think a holster should be and how it should be made. It might help to keep in mind that when you do it their way, and it doesn't work as they envisioned, they will always remember the bum who failed to turn their dream into reality, but they will never remember that they had a bad idea to start out with.

As others have pointed out, anyone can sue anyone else at any time. But once the lawsuit is filed the defendant must defend against the action, otherwise face judgement by default. Legal defense generally requires attorneys, and attorneys do not work for free. One of the major advantages of carrying liability insurance is that the insurance company will handle the legal defense. Of course, their attorneys will be working primarily to shield the insurance company from exposure, but the defendant's interests are generally the same as the insurance company's. Pre-trial defense expenses can easily rise into the tens of thousands of dollars. Actually going to trial will cost even more. Plaintiffs' attorneys understand this very well; they know that most cases will be settled out of court by payment of an amount perceived as being less than defense costs (commonly refered to as "nuisance" settlements). Without insurance you remain on the hook for all expenses, win or lose. Pay the insurance premiums and you can worry less.

If your customer is local I suggest getting him to bring in the Model 19 for patterning and forming. If not, ask around and you'll probably find one (there are millions of them all over the country). All K-frame S&W revolvers share the same frame dimensions. Beyond that there are a number of differences between models. Cylinders, barrel profiles, ejector rod housings, adjustable sights, all of which can affect holster fitting. A holster closely formed on the basic K-frame revolver (Model 10, etc) will not accept the Model 19 due to differences in barrel diameter, barrel rib, ejector rod housing, and adjustable rear sight. However, a holster formed on the Model 19 will readily accept the Model 10, although the fit will not be ideal. Another little difference that can come up is the hammers. Over the years S&W has made revolvers with at least 4 different hammer designs. This seldom results in much trouble with open-top holsters or simple retention straps, but with thumb-break retention you need to know which hammer the revolver has. A thumb-break made to fit the standard hammers will not work with the target hammer. In the shop I use two dummy guns for the K-frames as well as four actual revolvers to form holsters for most of the variations. I have three dummies for the N-frames and four actual revolvers. I have two dummies and two actual L-frame revolvers. In the J-frames I have three dummies and four actual revolvers. There are still S&W revolvers that I cannot fit holsters for. Probably a new model or two introduced while I wrote this.