Lobo

Everything in holster design involves compromises among the 4 basic factors of comfort, accessibility, security, and concealability. Whenever one factor is emphasized there will be compromises in the other factors. There is no such thing as the "perfect holster" for every user or every situation; if there were such a thing there would be only one holster design made. Pancake-style holsters in general emphasize comfort (by spreading the weight over a broader area of the belt), concealability (by reducing the visual profile of the weapon via the smooth outer shell that allows a cover garment to glide over the holstered handgun without snagging or "printing"), and security (retention provided by natural action of the holster under belt tensioning). These aspects of the pancake-style design come with some degree of compromise in accessibility (particularly ease of re-holstering). Pancake-style holsters achieve much of their retention qualities (security) from tensioning applied by the belt, pulling the holstered handgun snugly into the body. When the handgun is removed that tensioning remains and can cause the holster pocket to close to some degree. The stitch-lines fore-and-aft of the handgun provide for flexing at those points to facilitate retention. What I am explaining is that what you are describing may not be entirely a bad thing, simply an aspect of how pancake-style holsters perform their intended functions. While it is certainly possible to form a pancake-style leather holster in such a manner that the molded aspects are more rigid and less yielding to belt tensioning, that function can be expected to be reduced over time as the leather flexes repeatedly in use and reacts to the forces applied by the belt and user's body. Leather will always remain as a natural fibrous substance that manifests wear by stretching and becoming more pliable with repeated flexing. For those with holster needs including an absolute requirement for ease of re-holstering I would recommend other holster designs that emphasize the factor of accessibility more so than the pancake-style. I have noted that you, like many others, have applied a "reinforcement" panel to the outer holster panel in a manner suggesting mouth reinforcement. Such attempts at reinforcement of pancake-style holsters cannot really perform much in the way of mouth reinforcement because of the natural tendencies of such holsters to flex inward at the stitch-lines when the handgun is removed. In my opinion, such reinforcement panels serve more as decorative touches than functional additions, while also adding a bit of bulk (potentially compromising concealability). What I see is a pretty nice piece of work that is apparently behaving just as I would expect a pancake-style holster to behave in actual use. Best regards.

A pharmacist friend brings me these little blue pills that can be crushed and dissolved in a bucket of water, the I soak the belts in the water. After the belt has dried just sliding it through the belt loops seems to have an effect, which is giving me fits about how to get the length and width just right every time.

Beating an old horse to death here. Dummy guns are usually made only for current production handguns that have achieved a significant market share. Most handgun models are never made as dummies. Once a handgun model has passed out of production there is very little chance of ever finding a dummy. I offer 11 holster designs, with or without 4 common options, in 4 finish colors, left-hand and right-hand, for 140 different handguns, resulting in over 60,000 possible variations. I still receive requests for others just about every day. Life was very simple 40 years ago when half-a-dozen handgun manufacturers each offered half-a-dozen models. Now there are dozens of makers, each offering dozens of different models, and seldom does a week go by without someone offering the latest "new and improved" version of this, that, or the other. Welcome to the holster making business. This little problem shows no signs of ever going away. Best regards.

Many companies advertise Rings Blue Guns, but very few are stocking dealers. Most are "drop shippers", taking your order and forwarding it to Rings, and it will ship if in stock or wait for the next production run. Seldom any way to know when, or if, your order will be filled. Rob at Blue Gun Store (forum member) provides on-line data on what is in stock along with excellent communications on delivery times, etc. When I need a dummy gun it is because I have orders that need to be filled. I'd rather be able to tell my customers what to expect on waiting times for their orders, rather than rely on suppliers that can't even guess when an order will be delivered. Before Rob started his Blue Gun Store site I just called Rings direct and paid the retail price; at least I knew whether or not I could expect my order to be delivered. Rob has it nailed down with his service, and his prices and shipping charges are quite reasonable. Long time in this business and many experiences along the way. No connections with Rob or his Blue Gun Store other than as a satisfied customer.

I make around 250 to 300 gun belts per year. Here is the procedure I follow. 1. Straps are cut from veg-tanned sides of 7/8 and 6/7 weight. I take half-a-dozen straps from each new side, laying out the length diagonally from back to belly, with nominal lengths (vary due to shape of the sides) of about 60" and 70". This keeps me supplied with belt straps while also providing two smaller pieces of the side that are easier to store, and much easier to lay out on the bench for holster patterns, etc. 2. Each belt consists of the outer strap of 7/8 oz. and inner strap of 6/7 oz. I alternate these so the "back" end of one is laid over the "belly" end of the other, evening out the differences to achieve a more consistent overall thickness. 3. Straps are cemented together (Fiebings Tanners Bond) while laying on the workbench, then rolled out with a 20-plus pound piece of round steel billet, using it like a rolling pin in the kitchen to set the cement, then allowed to sit for an hour or so prior to proceeding. 4. Edges are stitched at 6 stitches per inch. Fancy stitch patterns can be laid out and done at the same time. 5. Edges are dressed evenly on a drum sander, then edges are beveled. 6. Belts are finished along with other products (holsters, pouches, etc) for the most consistent result, as most of my belts go out with holster orders. 7. Hardware is installed after finishing and the belt is ready to go. End result is consistently just under 1/4" overall thickness. I have several of these that I have used for several years now. Like any leather belt will do, these conform to hip shape over time, but none show any measureable stretching. Last bit of advice: MAKE SURE YOUR CUSTOMERS UNDERSTAND THAT TROUSER WAIST SIZE AND BELT SIZE IS NOT THE SAME THING! Trouser sizing is, I think, "vanity oriented". A man wearing size 32 trousers will usually require a 33" to 35" belt, etc. In other words, actual waist measurement is ALWAYS greater than trouser waist size. IWB-style holsters, particularly with the larger handguns, may require both trousers and belts of about 2" larger size than normally worn. Best regards.

Sig-USA has an interesting program for holster makers. They will either sell you any pistol in their line-up at a significant discount, or they will actually loan you a pistol to use for making a holster. Requirements: 1. Bonafide business (FEIN, etc), 2. Firearms must convey via FFL holder in compliance with all federal, state, and local laws, 3. Normal shipping charges. 4.For pistol loans they will require a deposit sufficient to cover loss or damage. Contact Sig-USA for details. I doubt that you will find a specific dummy gun for this model. Basically a P220 with shortened barrel/slide group, extended tang, dehorned hammer, "carry melt" treatment, no rail. The standard P220 dummy can probably be used to form an open-bottom holster, slide shield (sweat guard) would have to be adjusted to the contour of the extended tang. Best regards.

Over the years I have made and used more than a few paddle holsters. Paddles have been either leather-covered heavy gauge sheet metal or Kydex, frequently padded with closed-cell neoprene rubber for comfort. I no longer offer this style, but here are my observations: 1. Paddle must be relatively large in order to support and balance the holstered weapon. 2. Paddle covering is best if it includes a rough textured surface to help hold the paddle in position (I have used rough-out leather). 3. Paddle must incorporate some means to retain the holster inside the belt & trousers when the weapon is drawn. 4. Back side of holster can require some built-in reinforcement at the paddle attachment point(s) allowing some rigidity during use, particularly with the heavier handguns. 5. Paddle design must provide contours that conform to body shape for comfort, and allow for the belt so that the holster rides at the desired position and angles. I'm sure that others have pursued this style further than I have, and some fine designs surely exist. My experience, however, has been that paddle holsters are frequently too bulky for concealed carry applications, some paddle designs can be very uncomfortable during extended use, and concealability is not nearly as good as some other designs. In my opinion, these amount to significant compromises in pursuit of enhancing one aspect of a holster. I hope this provides some things to think about for this holster style. There is certainly some demand for this type.

The Sig P238 magazines are similar in dimensions to any other single-stack steel .380 magazines, the primary differences being in overall length, exact angle of feed, and floorplate dimensions. Just about any single-stack .380 magazine will do the job for patterning and forming the pouch pockets. The same is generally true in other calibers. Single-stack steel magazines of 9X19mm, .40 S&W, .45 ACP, etc, are all very similar within each caliber. Double-stack steel magazines in 9X19mm, .40 S&W, and .357 Sig are all very similar. A couple of exceptions are: 1. magazines for the 1911 pistols, which are all of similar dimensions regardless of caliber; 2. Glock pistol magazines, and others manufactured with polymer mag bodies. Over the years I have accumulated a drawer full of pistol magazines, usually from pawn shops and sporting goods stores that will frequently have dozens of old, unknown, dented, or other magazines that can be purchased very inexpensively.

Your post asks 'how can one protect themselves against these kind of things'. In modern America, where lawsuits are regularly filed in just about any type of business activity (with or without real or significant justification) we cannot prevent lawsuits over claims of injury or damage. We can achieve a measure of protection by doing two things: 1. Incorporate your business. A corporation is effectively a separate 'person' under the law. In the event of a claim being upheld against a corporation the personal assets (such as home, bank accounts, retirement savings, etc) of the principals' cannot generally be attached to satisfy the claim; only the assets of the corporation are at risk. 2. Business insurance. A good business insurance policy will include significant liability coverage. In the event of a claim the insurance company will provide services to investigate the claim, negotiate a settlement, arbitrate the claim, provide legal representation and litigation expenses, and/or pay judgements (up to policy limits, of course). This relieves the insured of significant expenses and much of the time requirements of litigation as well as protection against any actual losses due to judgements. A third thing that we should all be doing is to decline any orders for products that we have any inkling might be unsafe under some, or any, circumstances of use. Maintaining a record of such requests as a means of showing a history of turning down profit rather than producing questionable products may also be a good idea.

1. Interstate transfers of firearms within the US are covered under the Gun Control Act of 1968. Basically, a FFL is required in order to receive a firearm in interstate commerce, and a firearm may only be shipped to a FFL holder in another state. FFL licenses come in several categories such as "manufacturer", "dealer", "pawnbroker", "gunsmithing" (essentially a manufacturing license), "curio & relic", "ammunition manufacturer", etc; with not all licenses being "equal" for all purposes. 2. Firearms manufacturers and licensed gunsmiths may receive a firearm directly from the owner for repair or other work, then return it to the same person via common carrier. Manufacturers and gunsmiths are license holders. Holster making does not constitute gunsmithing or customization of the firearm. 3. Generally speaking, handguns must be shipped via common carrier by 'next day air' service, which is quite expensive (averaging around $70 to $80 each way, plus insurance). FFL holders routinely charge fees for facilitating transfers between non-FFL holders, adding to the overall costs. 4. Unless otherwise prohibited by state or local laws, a firearms owner may ship his firearm to another person within his state of residence, and have it returned to him within that state. NOTES: (a) US Postal Service regulations generally prohibit mailing firearms (although FFL holders may ship to FFL holders via Priority Mail), and ( state and local laws may provide additional restrictions on private transfers such as this, regardless of federal law (such as waiting periods, state registration or licensing, etc). 5. Unless you hold a valid Federal Firearms License you may not lawfully receive a firearm in interstate commerce for any reason unless it passes to you through a FFL holder in your state of residence and all background checks, state, and local laws are observed completely. NOTE: The frame of the weapon (generally the part with the serial number) constitutes a "firearm", so even a disassembled or partial weapon may be considered as a "firearm" under the law. 6. Receiving someone else's property for use in a business transaction, with return of the property anticipated at the conclusion of that transaction, is considered a "bailment". You, as the "bailee" are completely responsible for the safety, security, and preservation of that property from the moment it comes into your possession until you have returned it (safely, completely, and undamaged) to the "bailor". Your "homeowners" insurance policy will not cover your business pursuits. Your "renters" insurance policy will not cover your business pursuits. Your "business" insurance policy may cover property of others in your custody or control (subject to a deductible amount that is probably pretty high), but will probably not cover that property while in transit with USPS, UPS, Fed Ex, etc. The point to remember is that you are accepting responsibility for the full value of your customer's property! Your customer may sign a "release", "waiver", "indemnification", "hold harmess agreement" or other such paperwork prior to sending his property to you, but such prior releases are not generally recognized and provide little or no protection against claims of negligence or fraud. 7. There are folks out there who will send you a damaged firearm, a collectible weapon with parts missing, or any other combination you might dream up, then make claims against you FAR EXCEEDING THE VALUE OF ANY HOLSTER ORDER THEY MAY HAVE PLACED. If this should happen I would suggest that you (a) have good insurance coverage, ( be ready to pay for legal representation, © document every shipment you receive, with a witness and good photography of the unopened parcel, any damage to the parcel, and every detail of the shipment contents (make sure that your witness doesn't mind spending some time with claims investigators and taking time off to go to court with you if necessary). In other words, boys and girls, there is a lot to recommend against engaging in this type of business! Run afoul of GCA '68 and you could spend a few years making little rocks out of big rocks at a federal penitentiary. Have an unscrupulous person send you his "pristine" Remington 1875 or first generation Colt Single Action Army (minus a few parts that haven't been available since Teddy Roosevelt was president) and you will be spending a lot of time with lawyers and insurance claims people instead of pounding hides in your shop. I carry a good business insurance policy, but the deductible is about the same as a top-shelf handgun costs. I dot all the "i's" and cross all the "t's", but I don't "tug on Superman's cape, I don't spit into the wind, I don't mess with the old Lone Ranger" and I don't play with rattlesnakes. Knowledge may be acquired by anyone with the desire to learn. Wisdom comes only to those willing to learn from the experiences of others. Here is a genuine $0.02 worth.

Well, we have gotten some discussion going on, and that is a good thing. I've been doing this little business for just over 40 years. Most of what I post here anymore has more to do with the quirks to be expected in this business than it has to do with specifics of holster design or making, and I frequently bring up things that cause alarm bells to ring for me in hopes of alerting others about what to be careful of. For those who think I am a rude, arrogant, obnoxious, inconsiderate old man I will offer a few thoughts: 1. When you Google your business trade name and come up with 150,000 hits, let's talk again. 2. When your website consistently draws 5,000-plus hits every week, let's talk again. 3. When you are producing over 2,000 completed orders every year, let's talk again. 4. When you have repeat customers in all 50 US states and 29 foreign countries, let's talk again. 5. When you think for a single moment "The customer is always right", let's talk again. 6. When the e-mail traffic from your website requires 4 or 5 hours every day to read and respond to, let's talk again. 7. When you have committed to production of a project for a customer who knows more about your business than you will ever learn, let's talk again. 8. When your customer takes delivery of his "dream holster", completed to his exact specifications, and realizes that there is no way in the world that it can ever function in the way he thought/knew/dreamed that it would, and is blaming your lousy execution for ruining his sublime inspiration, let's talk again. A formed leather IWB-style holster for a pistol having a slide width of 7/8", a frame width of 5/8", with a dust-cover mounted rail over 1" wide holding a tactical light 3-plus inches long with a bezel diameter of about 1-1/4", cannot possibly work; nothing involved in the equation passes the barest minimum test of common sense. Mr. Customer may conceive of it as the "PERFECT HOLSTER", and Mr. Holster Maker may commit to making it for him, but the only possible outcome is a disappointed Mr. Customer who will always remember that Mr. Holster Maker failed miserably, but will never conclude that his concept was the least bit flawed. Go your own ways, boys and girls. Learn from the experiences of others if you can, otherwise be prepared for the school of hard knocks for all of your lessons. Best regards.

Just received another inquiry (I receive a couple every week) from a gentleman who owns a 1911 pistol with Dawson rail attached, with Surefire X300 tactical light attachment, wanting a IWB-style holster made. The following is my reply. _________________________________________________________________________ Thanks for your interest. I offer 11 holster designs, with or without 4 common options, in 4 finish colors, left-hand and right-hand, for 139 different handguns, resulting in over 60,000 possible variations and more than 10,000 patterns in file for regular use. I still receive requests for others almost daily. Assuming that holsters for handguns with tactical lights attached were remotely practical, and assuming that I selected only a dozen or so of the currently available tactical lights to acquire and use for patterning and forming holsters, I would then be up to around 700,000 possible variations and around 100,000 patterns in file (each of which takes a couple of hours work to generate, so about 100 years of working 40 hours per week on the patterns before a holster could be produced). Even then, the "new and improved" versions that are announced just about every week would render everything else obsolete and start the whole process over again. Life was so much more simple 40 years ago when I took my first holster order. Half a dozen handgun manufacturers, each offering half a dozen handgun models. Now there are dozens of makers, each offering dozens of models, and new variations being announced every week. Just keeping up with the GUNS available could take a couple of people working full time every day. Adding in all the aftermarket accessories would push the possible variations into the millions. Almost all holster making is done using "dummy guns", cast replicas of the originals usually so accurate that the serial numbers can be read. Dummies are usually available only for current production handguns that have achieved a significant market share. Newly introduced handguns are almost never available as dummies until they have been on the market for a year or so. Most handgun models are never offered as dummies because the market is so small. Unfortunately, those who choose to acquire the "newest and latest thing" will usually find nothing available in holsters for a long time. Those who customize their weapons, or add aftermarket accessories, will always find it impossible to purchase a production holster. The only possible alternative is to make your handgun available for patterning and fitting a holster by a custom maker. This work involves multiple hours in patterning, prototype production and testing, adjusting the pattern, producing additional prototypes, etc, before the final result can be produced. Very few folks are willing to pay for the time involved. Even those who are will find that the various federal, state, and local laws pertaining to firearms transfers can make it difficult, expensive, and risky to move forward on such a process. The best advice I can offer is to locate a holster maker within your state of residence, as close as possible to your home, then open up your checkbook and be ready to pay several times the price of any production holster to have what you want created. _______________________________________________________________________ I'm saving this one for replies to the next couple of hundred folks with the same idea in mind.

I am assuming that by "pouch" style you are refering to a one-piece design wrapping around the weapon with belt mounting point on the rear. I usually call this "envelope-style" construction. If that is the case you can pattern the holster using a manila file folder. Place the revolver inside the folder, centered with sights aligned at the fold. Hold the piece firmly and run your fingers around the weapon profile, leaving an indentation on the outside of the folder. Then lay the folder out flat and place the revolver directly over the indentation. You can then trace the weapon's outline onto the outside of the folder, including location of cylinder, trigger guard openings, etc. With that done, allowing about 1/2" to 3/4" around the seam area you can draw in your seam (less room needed is a welted seam is being used, a bit more without the welt). Cut out the basic pattern with the file folder held in the folded position, then the basic pattern can be laid out flat. Then you can work on the belt attachment point, adding that to your pattern. Retention strap, thumb-break, etc, can then be worked out, if desired. When you think you have completed the pattern to your satisfaction it can be easily checked against the handgun by folding it around the revolver to see how everything lines up. Revise as necessary. Any time you are working on a new pattern it doesn't hurt to make one up with scrap or salvaged leather, then refine the pattern before going on to production of the final version. In my experience the first pattern done will very seldom be perfect, so some revisions (overall fit, stitch line locations, etc) are usually required and expected. Best regards.

The S&W Model 60 has been around for about 50 years. Basically a stainless steel version of the 'Chief Special' line of J-frame revolvers. You will need to find out if the revolver in question is the basic model (fixed sights), as some versions feature adjustable sights. Also the barrel length and profile may be an issue, as these were made with 1-7/8" standard barrel profile, 3" heavy barrel, 2-1/8", 2-1/2", and 3" barrels having several different profiles (underlugs, front sight ramps, etc), as well as others made in relatively short runs or special order production. Standard caliber was .38 Special for many years, but S&W has recently made quite a few in .357 Magnum caliber as well. Total production has run well into the millions, but not all are identical. So, before you start patterning and cutting leather you will need to gather a little more information. If your friend's father's Model 60 is the basic, standard piece you will find it listed by Rings Manufacturing (Blue Guns), and Rings also offers the 3" adjustable sight version with full lug barrel. In my shop we use a couple of dummy guns as well as several actual revolvers to duplicate different varieties of J-frame revolvers. There are still a few that we can't do. Overall, holsters for J-frame S&W revolvers are a substantial portion of all holster orders. I can't think of a single production run in recent years that has not included at least one J-frame order, and usually several. Probably more of these handguns in use now than just about any others. A "must have" piece for the holster shop, in my opinion. Best regards.

Issues with the arbor press were primarily the time setting up for each task, which generally exceeds the time required to just punch out the holes with the mallet method. If I were doing multiples of the same item on a regular basis setting up the arbor press and punch would be the way to go. But I'm doing dozens of different pieces every week with seldom any repeats of the same item. Keeping production moving along requires that each task be completed so that the next one can be done.

Much good information and advice here. There is a market for high-end custom leather gear, and those customers will expect (and demand) the highest levels of work in every detail. There is a market for budget-priced gear that is serviceable without much attention to aesthetics. We all have to identify our market and produce accordingly. Under John Bianchi's able management Bianchi International grew from a young police officer making holsters one at a time on his kitchen table to a company that produced over 40,000,000 products prior to his eventual sale of the business. Bianchi's leather holsters featured edges done with some version of edge coating, a rubbery liquid coating material. Bianchi's leather products were highly regarded for decades. I understand that General Bianchi is now engaged in the production of extremely high-end western rigs, and I suspect that the methods used are different than those employed in mass production for a more general market. Those producing custom orders, one or two at a time, may choose to concentrate a great deal of time and effort on every detail. Those producing dozens of orders every week for a more general market may choose to expedite some processes. The results will not be directly comparable in any way, but both serve specific market niches.

As TwinOaks has pointed out even the best punches will require occasional sharpening, and that is a skill that results from some instruction and practice. I would add only that the method of use can affect both the results and the longevity of the punch. A solid work surface is required to stabilize the work and allow the punch to penetrate cleanly. A good backstop prevents inadvertent damage to the punch's cutting edge. A rawhide maul or hard plastic mallet will drive the punch without deforming the shaft. For heavy duty punching I use a 2-lb. hard plastic mallet to drive the punch while working on a plastic kitchen cutting board supported on a concrete floor. This combination allows most punching to be done in one or two sharp raps, leaving nice clean holes on the front and back surfaces. The plastic cutting board stops the punch without damaging the edge. After spending considerable time adapting a 1-ton arbor press to accept various sizes of hole punches and a section of cutting board under the work I returned to the above method as being faster and easier overall.

When dressing the edges on a sander (belt or drum) it is important to keep the piece moving to avoid uneven removal of material. I use a drum sander and dampen the leather prior to sanding, which prevents airborne leather dust and lets the damp material drop to the bench top. After sanding the edges will need to be beveled, which can be easier with the leather damp (not wet, just dampened). For burnishing I rub the edges with a 50/50 mixture of beeswax and parrafin, then burnish with a hard felt polishing wheel chucked into a drillpress and turning about 1700 rpm (a Dremel tool could also be used). Only moderate pressure is required, keep the piece moving, heat builds up quickly melting the wax and sealing the edges, and the felt wheel polishes the edge quickly and easily. With this method in the shop we burnish about 25 to 30 pieces (holsters, belts, pouches, etc) in about an hour. Then they are ready for sealant and final finish.

Mike: Looks like slug loads in that rig, plenty of kick for sure! I think the lacing detail around the sling swivel will keep the unit in place pretty well, though.

Not all snaps are created equal. In addition to different shaft lengths snaps are made with differing "actions". There are "soft-action" , "standard-action", and "hard-action" snaps, refering to the relative holding power of the snap when fastened. The differences are accomplished by the use of different annular (ring-shaped) springs inside the snap cap that secure to the snap stud when fastened. Differences in snap materials can also produce different results (brass, steel, stainless steel, plated, anodized finishes, etc). Finally, the differences between various manufacturers can be considerable. In my experience the products of Durable Dot and Fasnap have been of very good quality and consistency. The snaps usually found in the hobby shops and leather supply stores are most likely imported products and quality may vary considerably. The hobby shop snaps are available in small quantities, typically 10 or 12 sets to a bag, at around $5.00 or so per dozen (about 40 to 50 cents per set). Much better snaps are available, but usually require larger volume purchases (100 or 1000 sets), but the overall cost per set will actually be lower than what you might pay in the hobby shops. You can probably find on-line retailers selling the better name brand products in smaller quantities, but prices will reflect the expenses of breaking down bulk orders into smaller units for retail sale (someone has to count them out, or weigh them, and repackage, etc).

Bump.

Within the past few months there have been a couple of threads on using horsehide for holsters and belts. A quick search should turn up several posts on this subject that you may find helpful.

Bump to top. Customer still looking for a holster maker.

I am sure that you will enjoy the Cobra Class 4 machine. Mine has been working away in the shop for about 2 years. Excellent piece of equipment. In addition to learning to use the machine myself I have trained up my assistant, who had never operated a sewing machine of any type. Here is what I recommend for a new operator: 1. Assemble as many pieces as you have scrap for, in combinations that are similar to your usual production (2 layers, 3 layers, lining pieces, etc). 2. Apply a stitching groove and stitch patterns to those pieces. Straight lines, broad curves, tight curves, and sharp direction changes should all be included. Different combinations on each piece are helpful. 3. Practice stitching those pieces, learning to control stitch placement, following pattern lines, controlling speed, stopping at each direction change to rotate the work, etc. After doing a few dozen practice pieces you should be able to start on regular production work. Slower is better than faster. Stopping at changes in direction will help to avoid errors and odd-sized stitches. Timing the stop so that the top thread is engaged on the bobbin shuttle prevents "skipped" stitches (basically, stopping just after the needle has bottomed out and has started to rise, but is still within the material being stitched, will accomplish this reliably). Thread size will be determined by the work being performed. 277 (T270) is a good choice for most applications such as holsters and belts. Changes in thread size, and even changing from one brand of thread to another, will frequently require adjustments in thread tension. Some folks like a #207 for the bobbin thread, probably because the bobbin will hold more #207 than #277 so changing bobbins will not have to be done as frequently. The Cobra Class 4 features an automatic bobbin winder, filling your empty bobbin while you stitch with another in place. With #277 thread I have found that the machine will wind two empty bobbins in the time it takes to use up one full bobbin, so having wound bobbins ready is easy to do. When starting a new piece the top thread and bottom thread must be held by hand until two or three stitches have been performed. Be careful not to apply too much pressure when holding the threads because this can bend the needle out of line with the hole in the plate, causing the needle to break on the down stroke. A comfortable stool is helpful when stitching several items, or larger items. When changing from one type of work to another you may need to adjust thread tension a bit. Lighter weight pieces require less tension for a nice stitch. Stitch lengths can also vary a bit with different combinations and thicknesses. So, putting together a sample piece of scrap leather and stitching a few lines will help you adjust the machine for these variations. More than anything else, just practice and practice some more before starting on real projects.

Have had a customer inquiry for a field holster fitted for a S&W Model 29 Classic Hunter with scope mounted, vicinity of Albany, New York. If interested please send me your contact information via PM, I will forward to the customer to make contact with you.