Lobo

Every reply posted so far offers good points (hole sizing for the snap shaft, shaft length, alternative tools to start flaring the shaft tube) for achieving your goal. The only things I feel is worth adding is to buy good snaps and good tools! The snaps and setting tools that Tandy sells are imported, and quality can vary considerably. Much better and more consistent results can be had with the products offered by Fasnap, Durable Dot, and Ohio Travel Bag (commercial accounts required by some of these suppliers). C.S. Osborne setting tools are pretty much the standard of the industry and will provide far more consistent results. Tandy's Line 24 snaps retail for about $5.00 per dozen (about $0.43 per unit), which is much more than the better quality snaps cost (although you will have to order in bulk lots of 100 or 1000 sets). Tandy's setting tools are relatively inexpensive, but a few dollars spent on the better tools will make the process much less frustrating. Best regards.

The set up shown uses a standard male snap stud set with a machine screw to a T-nut mounting in the holster. I use #6-32 machine screws in 5/16" and 3/8" lengths with three-pronged T-nuts threaded for #6X32. Check out boltdepot.com for supplies at pretty reasonable prices when ordered in lots of 100, 1000, etc. Otherwise you can experiment with a few from your local hardware retailer.

Generally speaking, if the employer determines which work is to be done, when it will be done, where it will be done, and/or provides training, tools, or equipment for performance of the work, then the worker is an employee. As such, the employee is subject to minimum wage laws, social security & medicare, workers' compensation, unemployment insurance, and any other applicable laws in your location. Pay might be based upon hourly wage, piecework rates, commission (percentage), etc, but will still be subject to all laws, and the employer will be required to provide payroll accounting, tax withholding, and required reports (W2, etc). Casual labor may be retained for various and irregular needs, subject to annual maximums with minimal accounting and reporting requirements. This is quite limited, and an easy way to run afoul of wage and withholding laws. Caution recommended. Independent contractors may be retained to perform a broad range of services, however cannot generally be required to work at specific places, times, schedules, means or methods, and the employer does not provide training, tools, or equipment. Independent contractors are responsible for their own accounting, taxes, and reporting. If your business is a partnership, another partner might be added. If your business is incorporated, another officer might be added. The obvious negative to these is that partial ownership is transfered and you might end up with a long-term problem that can't be easily gotten rid of. Some of the most glaring potential problems are in the form of lawfully required benefit programs. Social Security and Medicare are federal mandates funded by contributions by both the employee and the employer equally. Unemployment insurance is a federal mandate overseen by the state governments, providing specific benefits. Workers' Compensation laws provide benefits for on-the-job injuries such as wage losses, disability (partial or total), retraining, etc. If a person performing services for you makes a claim for any of these, supported by evidence that he/she worked in your business, and appropriate contributions/taxes/payments were not made, you may find yourself facing legal actions with serious penalties attached. It might be a good idea to discuss these things with an experienced business accountant or attorney before proceeding much further. Best regards.

I have been supplying a few shops in my area for several years. The retail business revolves around having what a customer wants when the customer wants it. If it is there a sale can be made; if not there will probably be no sale (although occasionally a customer will place an order for production and delivery at a later date, based upon what he has seen at the store). I've set a limit on wholesale orders at 12 pieces, as specified by the retailer. Then they can let me know what they need to refill the display and those items are produced and delivered on a monthly basis. Payment on delivery is required; I don't do consignments. The shop gets a reasonable wholesale price, allowing them a good profit on each sale. No returns for refund or credit. Special orders are filled on the same basis. Lots of retailers inquire about stocking my products, but most want a consignment deal or payment submitted after each sale. A recipe for disappointment, in my opinion. If the retailer can't afford to stock his store it is highly unlikely that he will be paying his bills on a timely basis.

My primary business is holsters (79% of all orders), belts and pouches (21%). I offer 11 holster designs, with or without 4 common options, in 4 finish colors, for 138 different handguns, in both left-hand and right-hand versions. This results in over 48,000 possible variations. I still receive requests for others almost daily. I think that somewhere out there is a place called the "Holster Genius Academy" turning out a new crop of graduates every week or so, every one of them convinced that he has the "perfect holster" plan in his head, all he needs is someone to make it for him. Custom work and special orders require a huge amount of time, as compared to production of standard products to established patterns. Having introduced 3 unique holster designs over the past 4 years I can tell you that it can take months of design work, pattern production, prototype production, prototype testing, adjustment of patterns, etc, before the design is ready to go into production. I have spent between 6 months and a year on each new product development. A single custom order might take 5, 10, 15, or 20 hours to complete. For contrast, producing standard products to established patterns, and working in batches of 10 to 12 pieces at a time at each stage of production (cutting, assembly, stitching, edges, dyes, finishes, hardware), I average about 47 minutes per completed product. The customer demanding control over design and production at every step of the project needs to understand that (1) all time, materials, and shop supplies must be paid for, (2) the moment that the money runs out his project comes to a halt at that point, and (3) since the design is HIS the results belong to HIM, not the producer. Most of us have had potential customers wanting a convertible OWB/IWB with adjustable cant and ride height, with built-in triple magazine pouch, handcuff case, tactical light carrier, and iPod or MP3 player, all of which is expected to provide comfortable and discreet concealed carry with Speedo's and undershirt. For those that accept such orders I suggest that the customer will never remember that it was his lousy idea, but he will always remember that the holster maker failed miserably at making his dream a reality. This business provides plenty of opportunities to just say "NO". Best regards.

Round knives have always scared the heck out of me, and I will readily admit that I have never learned to use one (properly or improperly). Utility knives (straight edge or hook blade) have proven to me that first aid supplies are an essential item to have in the shop at all times. I have used heavy duty hand shears for many years and intend to continue doing so. Occasional adjustment of the attachment screw to maintain proper clearance, and occasional application of a diamond sharpening steel to the edges, and just about any pattern can be cut from just about any leather (OK, I have never tried anything over about 12 oz. weight). Much of my rough-out cutting, and long straight cuts (starting belt straps on a diagonal from a new side of leather) can be done using an electric shear intended for automotive sheet metal work. Again, some small adjustments for blade clearance are necessary to assure a nice clean cut. I have nothing but respect for those who continue with the traditional methods. But I have found that some things can be done differently with equally good results. My young shop assistant can cut a dozen holster patterns with hand shears in well under an hour without having to resort to the first aid kit, much less the stones and strops required to keep knives going from day to day. I can almost keep up with her production rate, despite being an old fart with osteoarthritis limiting my joints. By the way, between the two of us we regularly turn out between 3 and 4 dozen pieces every week with plenty of time for leisurely lunches and happy hour activities. Best regards.

Thank you. Made for a railed 1911, if I remember correctly. Shoulder holsters are not as popular as they were 20 years ago, but we still get orders for 3 or 4 per month. Anyone who has ever used a shoulder holster can tell you how damp they can become during use. Horsehide is an excellent material for this type of application.

Jeremiah: Nothing to share as far as dyeing goes. The pieces shown are finished with nothing more than neatsfoot oil, acrylic sealant, and final finishing agent. The colors, and variations, shown are naturally occurring within the horsehide. Some hides will display it, some will not. I would be careful about "misting on" any dyes, as noted in my earlier post the horsehide does not readily absorb any liquid and can easily start to display surface cracking that displays underlying material that does not absorb the dye and will be quite noticeable. Not familiar at all with the antique paste, but as you note it does not penetrate well, so the effect could be similar and the results could be disaster. My best advice is to keep experimenting with sample pieces, use them for a while, and only take on commercial orders for those things that you know will stand up to rigorous use. Otherwise you may have disgruntled customers. Replenishing the inherent moisture seems to me to be the key, and modest applications of neatsfoot oil seems to do the job for my needs. Best regards.

Horsehide is very dense, compared to cowhide. Moisture absorption is minimal and very slow, so casing requires additional time and effort. In my experience, horsehide takes nice impressions (very clean and sharp) such as stamping, but the results are quite shallow because of the density of the leather. I asked my carver ( who specializes in the Sheridan style) to try a sample piece, and he reported that it was not at all satisfactory because of the density that does not allow for molding and sculpting the leather.

I have gone through about a hundred of the horse butts from Springfield, usually ordering about 50 at a time. There is considerable difference in thickness, size, grain structure, etc. I don't mind at all since I use the leather for a variety of products including holsters, pouches, and belts, so there is very little wasted leather. My understanding is that these are (as noted above) 'seconds' from Horween's, so they are not suitable for all applications (especially items requiring large pieces of very uniform characteristics). Holsters and pouches typically require relatively small pieces, so patterns can be laid out to utilize portions that meet the needs of each piece (weight, thickness, etc). Holsters for the larger and heavier handguns can be accomodated by the thicker and more uniform portions; holsters for smaller and lighter handguns can use other portions; and pouches can be made with much of the rest. The only serious limitation I have found is for belts, since very few of the horse butts will permit cutting straps longer than about 48" or so in length. Even so, I am averaging about 5 completed products per butt. Those making fewer pieces, or less variety, will probably experience higher waste. I use the horsehide primarily for IWB-style holsters and shoulder holsters, which benefit most from the moisture resistant qualities of horsehide because these products are continually exposed to moisture from perspiration during use. One horse butt will easily make one of my shoulder holsters with off-side mag pouches, and the thinner portions work very well for the shoulder holster straps. IWB-style holsters will run about 4 to 6 units per butt, with a fair amount of smaller pieces left for mag pouches, etc. There is a definite learning curve to be made when working with horsehide. It cuts beautifully, very clean and sharp edges. Dressing and burnishing edges is a breeze. Wet-forming requires much longer times in the water to achieve the required results; I usually soak pieces for 10 minutes or more before starting to form. Boning is straightforward and requires only moderate effort, provided moisture content and temperatures are correct. The optimum working period seems to be about 10 minutes or so after forming with the piece heated in a drying cabinet set to about 125F, allowing for quick and accurate boning that is retained very well. Dyeing takes some practice, since horsehide does not absorb liquids as readily or evenly as cowhide might. Save small pieces cut off during the production process and use those to test your dyes and application methods and the results you are seeking will be easier to achieve. The hard rolled horsehide can develop surface cracking during the forming process, especially if it is formed without adequate moisture content. Dyed horsehide can develop surface cracking at stress points and flex areas, exposing underlying areas that have not been penetrated by the dyes. This can be overcome by replenishing moisture content after forming by modest applications of neatsfoot oil, providing a bit more flexibility in the leather at stress points. In my opinion, horsehide is an excellent material for some applications, and the currently available horse butts from Springfield are an excellent value. Working time with horsehide is generally higher than cowhide. Methods must be adjusted to achieve the required results, and some of what we have learned with cowhide just won't work with horsehide. For those who have not worked with horsehide before I recommend playing with it through several sample projects before starting on a new order.

Customer in Bingor, Oklahoma with a Taurus PT 1911 ALR (railed, full-size). If you are in the area, or if you have the gun, PM or e-mail me and I will send your contact information to customer.

Sold and delivered.

Received a holster order on 02/21/12, acknowledged the order and quoted 5 to 6 weeks for completion, completed and delivered the order on 03/20/12. On 05/11/12 Mr. Customer wrote that the holster had failed after only two days of use, leather had softened to a point of no retention, finish cracking. Asked Mr. Customer to return the holster for inspection and any needed action. On 06/08/12 received the return. Leather was indeed very soft. Finish was largely gone. Multiple cracks, edges frayed, and interior badly abraded. Distinct odors detected, one a chemical smell and another that reminded me of lanolin-based skin lotions. Wrote to Mr. Customer telling him that the holster had obviously been subjected to some sort of treatment, such as an oily leather care product. Mr. Customer responded that he had gotten some black stains on the holster from his belt, so he had used gasoline on a rag to clean the holster. I explained that my product warranty was limited to failures in normal use due to defects in materials or workmanship, and declined to make a refund. Customer wrote back that he was offended that I had said that he put anything on the holster when he had not done so, then demanded that I send the holster back so he can photograph it and post negative reviews on-line. The following is my response: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- For clarification, I do not know that you put anything on the holster (although I do know that you wrote that you applied gasoline to it), but I do know that something has been applied to the leather since it was delivered to you. I have been making leather holsters for 40 years. I know the source of my leather (Hermann Oak Tannery, one of the oldest and most reputable tanneries in North America), I know exactly what products were used in completing and finishing the holster, I know the feel of a finished holster from my shop, and I know the smells. So, whether you applied something to the holster, or whether someone snuck into your house and did it, or the effects of gasoline (regular or unleaded, high or low octane) resulted in the condition of your holster, it all amounts to the same thing, and that is damage completely beyond my control and completely outside of my product warranty. Your holster is the Enhanced Pancake model, a design that has been featured in two national magazines and in a book on armed self defense by a well known authority. I have used the same holster model, made and finished in the same manner, for over two years and it remains in nearly perfect condition. I have delivered over 1,000 of that same model to customers in all 50 states and several foreign countries over the past two years, and customer feedback has been overwhelmingly positive. You would not be the first person to attempt to obtain a refund for an item that has been damaged, either negligently or intentionally. You would also not be the first person to use an implied threat of negative on-line reviewing as a means of extorting a manufacturer. I have been around long enough that very few things that people do surprise me very much. I expect that you will do as you see fit, say what you wish to say, and post on-line whatever you want to. You may even convince a few people not to order from Lobo Gun Leather. You might also succeed in making yourself look foolish. That is all up to you. Best wishes, Ray PS: For future reference, gasoline is not recommended for cleaning leather holsters. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Just another day in the holster business, or am I being unreasonable? Customer claims two days of use, seven weeks after delivery? Possible, I suppose. Customer takes 4 weeks to send it back in after complaining? Possible, I suppose. Customer admits to using gasoline to clean the holster, demands a refund, and threatens negative reviews? I would have thought this unlikely, but I now know it to be possible. Oh, well. Enjoy your day.

05/25/12 SOLD, PENDING FUNDS.

Fiebings Tanners Bond cement is a very good product. I've used it for years for cementing in linings and constructing belts. Excellent adhesion, reasonably long working time (allowing easy adjustment during assembly), dries transluscent so it is just about invisible at edges or exposed areas, remains flexible forever, water soluable for easy clean-up but dries to waterproof. No objectionable odor or vapors, and I've noticed no skin irritation from contact with the stuff. Tanners Bond is marketed by Tandy's as their Leathercraft Cement, sold in small bottles for hobbyists. I prefer to order the gallon jugs and transfer to smaller bottles for regular use. I usually apply the cement with 1" paint brushes, keeping the brushes in a closed bottle of water between uses, so I don't spend a lot of time cleaning brushes and each one will last for a couple of months in the shop. I buy those at Harbor Freight for about $5.00 per dozen.

A note about melting and mixing waxes: be very careful when doing this. Most waxes are flammable. When melting waxes there can be significant vapors emitted into the air, and a combustion source (like the heat source used for the melting) can ignite those vapors. If done in an enclosed space the result might be an explosion. I use a mixture of 50% beeswax and 50% paraffin for finishing and burnishing edges. I have this made up for me by a candle maker who has a wax melting machine. Another method is to use a pot of boiling water, place the waxes to be blended into heavy duty freezer bags, then immerse the bags into the water until the waxes have melted and blended, then pour off the mixture into molds. I've done this outdoors on a camp stove, avoiding any possibility of vapor build up in an enclosed space. Pine pitch is also quite flammable, and the vapors and residues are extremely irritating to the lungs, nasal passages, and mucuous membranes (ask any old time roofer who has done hot roofing with pitch! Nasty stuff.). If I were attempting to work with pitch I would make very sure there was good ventilation, and avoid any contact with the stuff.

Your holster is a very early version. Later production holsters were made of canvas layered with latex rubber, resulting in a very durable product with the general appearance of leather, but far more durable overall. There is considerable collector interest in these. Generally speaking, anything that you might do to the holster would reduce its desirability and value to collectors. I'm sure there are restoration experts that can do a first class job, but I am also sure that anything less would be readily identifiable as an ameteur repair job.

Used Tippmann Boss stitcher. Purchased new from Tippmann in November, 2008. Used until August, 2010 for general production work of holsters, belts, and accessories. Machine has been sitting idle since that time. Condition is considered to be good and serviceable, but definitely used and offered with no warranty, express or implied. Will ship in original factory carton with standard accessory items including bobbins, bobbin winder, some needles, manual, and a few spare parts on hand (rack parts, helical drive gears, screws). Price from Tippmann is $1495.00 new, and they regularly have a year-end sale at around $1195.00. Will sell this one for $800.00 picked up in Pueblo, Colorado, or will ship to the lower 48 states for $30.00. Contact by e-mail only, click on my website link and use the contact page. NOTES: 1. The Tippmann Boss is a manually-operated stitching machine that is capable of stitching up to 3/4" thickness in leather. 2. General limitations include a throat depth of around 9" or so, and well known requirements for frequent adjustments of thread tensioning and timing. 3. There is a definite learning curve involved in owning, operating, and maintaining the Tippmann Boss machine, and this model can be very frustrating for those having little or no experience with stitchers in general. 4. I am selling this machine to recoup part of my initial investment, after stepping up to a far more capable piece of equipment. I do not have the time or inclination to provide instruction or tutoring in operation, adjustment, or maintenance so the purchaser should be prepared to go through the learning process without assistance from me. 5. Packaging in the original factory carton involves partial disassembly of the machine. Reassembly and adjustment for the intended uses will be necessary before using the machine. The factory manual provides basic instruction, and Tippmann Industrial Products' website contains a video instructional and troubleshooting guide. 6. This machine is the current production model with aluminum housing, not the earlier cast iron version. 7. Please do not bother haggling over price or terms. It will be $800.00 in cash or certified funds, plus $30.00 ground shipping to a US address, otherwise the machine can remain bolted to the work table in my shop.

I make quite a few of these, a modification of my old Model 5 configured for cross-draw. Thumb-break retention, covered trigger guard, rear sight protection. Not the best choice for discreet concealed carry, but works quite well for people who are seated or driving. I use this style while hunting to carry a Model 29 .44 Magnum, allowing me to sling my rifle over the right shoulder and wear a small backpack without interference.

For those who haven't noticed, 1911-style pistols are being manufactured by dozens of companies throughout the world, and there is a wide range of variations in just about every aspect of these pistols including the thumb safeties. Adding in the huge variety of aftermarket and custom parts, there is no end to the variations that might exist on a pistol that could end up in any given holster. A holster formed to fit a specific pistol, and specific thumb safety lever, might work well with that specific pistol. Any other pistol used with that holster might result in any number of results, and there is no possible way of predicting what those might be. I suggest that some caution is advisable in what is offered and represented to the public. The following excerpts are copied from my website: Lobo Gun Leather products are intended for use only with unaltered and unmodified handguns in the original condition, as delivered from the manufacturer! Handguns that have been modified IN ANY WAY WHATSOEVER (including but certainly not limited to trigger shoes, custom triggers, extended or oversized safeties) MAY BE UNSAFE IN ANY HOLSTER! OWNERS OF CUSTOMIZED, ALTERED, AND MODIFIED HANDGUNS ARE URGED TO CONSULT A CUSTOM HOLSTER MAKER TO PRODUCE PRODUCTS SPECIFICALLY FITTED TO THAT SPECIFIC HANDGUN! SAFETY FIRST. SAFETY LAST. SAFETY ALWAYS. YOU ARE THE PERSON RESPONSIBLE FOR SAFE USE OF FIREARMS AND ACCESSORIES! HANDLING, CARRYING, HOLSTERING AND DRAWING HANDGUNS ARE POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS ACTIVITIES THAT SHOULD BE ENGAGED IN ONLY BY THOSE WHO HAVE RECEIVED THOROUGH TRAINING IN ALL ASPECTS OF SAFELY PERFORMING THESE ACTIVITIES. LOBO GUN LEATHER MAKES HOLSTERS SUITABLE FOR USE ONLY WITH STANDARD HANDGUN MODELS, AS MANUFACTURED. USE OF ANY HOLSTER WITH ANY HANDGUN THAT HAS BEEN ALTERED IN ANY MANNER WHATSOEVER IS POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS TO ONES' SELF AND OTHERS. FIREARMS, PROPERLY HANDLED AND USED, ARE MERELY TOOLS WITH WHICH TO ACCOMPLISH TASKS. WHEN IMPROPERLY HANDLED OR USED THERE IS ALWAYS A POTENTIAL DANGER OF DEATH, GRIEVOUS BODILY HARM, AND PROPERTY DAMAGE.. USE OF LOBO GUN LEATHER PRODUCTS IS ENTIRELY BEYOND ANY CONTROL OF LOBO GUN LEATHER, CORYCO LLC, AND ALL OFFICERS, EMPLOYEES, AND AGENTS OF SAME. THE USER BEARS FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR ALL RISKS OF LOSS, INJURY, OR DAMAGE CAUSED BY ANY USES OF OUR PRODUCTS. ANY LEATHER HOLSTER THAT HAS BEEN DAMAGED OR BECOME WORN TO A NOTICEABLE DEGREE MAY BE UNSAFE FOR FURTHER USE AND SHOULD BE RETIRED OR DESTROYED TO PREVENT ACCIDENTS.

Some of the earlier production Springfield Armory pistols have oversized dust covers (even the "mil-spec" models), so any order for a SA pistol signals the need to check with the customer to be sure that you can fit a holster for his piece. Some of the other differences between manufacturers will include overall slide profiles, ejection ports, grip safeties, and huge variations in thumb safeties, slide releases, and sights. Accessory rails will vary quite a bit from one brand to another. The rail on your Blackhawk dummy is one of the larger and longer varieties and will probably serve for most applications (note mncarpenter's comment about fitting around the accessory rail). I have 5 or 6 dummies in the shop and my personal collection includes 28 pistols (from 1914 to recent vintage), but there are still "1911-style" pistols out there that I can't make holsters for. And, at the rate that new handgun models are being introduced, I suspect that there might be one or two more since I got up this morning.

I think your experience in this will depend largely upon how you are doing business. For many years my customers were those I knew, those I worked with, and referals. I took the orders, produced the product, then delivered and collected. Never any problems. When I started doing business on-line I continued the same way, completing each product (and even sending photos) prior to payment, and I offered a "no questions asked" return policy. That lasted for a year or so. Then I noticed that about 5% of customers did not complete the transaction for various reasons (found something elsewhere, traded handguns, etc). Finally, I experienced a couple of months during which dozens of orders were returned for refund (all from a cluster of zip codes, so I suspect it was either someone's idea of a joke, or intentional sabotage of my little business). So I changed both my payment and warranty policies. Any order reaching production stage that has not been paid is placed on "hold" status, and if payment has not been received by the estimated completion date the order is considered as "cancelled". My warranty is limited to defects in materials or workmanship for a period of one year. Last year I received about 1600 orders and 71 were never paid (4.4%), so they were never made. The 4.4% that were never made amount to two weeks of production, so I was able to produce those orders that customers actually wanted without unnecessary delays, and the profits of two weeks of my time were not just lost in the process. I still have the occasional "leaker", an order that is completed before payment has been received. When that happens I contact the customer and find that nearly all of them have changed their minds, found something elsewhere, traded the pistol, or some other variation of the excuses. When this happens I put the product in a box, then hold a clearance sale a couple of times per year offering them at a good discount to make them go away. There are a few names I see several times per year on new orders, those orders are never paid for and never get made. They keep placing orders again and again, so I don't know what their motives might be. Your experience may vary, but I think mine is generally reflective of people in general. Some change their minds. Some place orders they may not be able to afford. Some change handguns more frequently than others change their socks. 11 holster designs, with or without 4 common options, in 4 finish colors, for 137 handgun models, results in over 24,000 possible variations (not counting left-hand versions). At my current rate of production the likelihood of receiving a duplicate order is something like once every 15 to 20 years, and that is for products that are more or less standardized. If you are doing custom, one-of-a-kind, special orders it could get real "iffy" to produce anything before payment has been received.

I agree with Dwight on this. IWB-style holsters based on pancake-style construction will always flex inward along the stitch-lines due to belt tensioning applied when the handgun is removed. Even when made of very sturdy leather and firmly formed, after a short period of use the leather will be softening and flexing more and more. Adding reinforcement around the holster mouth may help to retain mouth shape but will also add bulk to the finished product, possibly affecting comfort and concealability. Every holster design involves compromises among the four basic factors of comfort, accessibility, security, and concealability. Whenever one factor is emphasized there will be compromises in the other factors. In this case the factor emphasized is concealability, as the IWB-style holsters contain the bulk of the handgun within the trousers. The trade-offs are in comfort (for many people) and accessibility (specifically the ease of re-holstering the weapon). All of this is fine so long as the customer has a realistic expectation for the holster he has ordered. When a customer inquires about holsters that allow easy one-handed re-holstering I try to direct that customer to any holster design other than IWB-style. If IWB-style is required by the customer I make sure that the customer knows what to expect. In general, customers are far more knowledgable about holsters now than they were in years past, with countless sources available for commentary and reviews of different designs. There are also quite a few customers who have read enough comments and reviews to build the "ideal holster" in their minds, sometimes without any connection to the realities of what to expect. I jokingly refer to these folks as "graduates of Holster Genius School" when I receive their e-mail inquiries filled with unlkely to impossible requirements. I can't stress the point strongly enough about making sure that the customer's expectations are reasonable and achievable before accepting an order. You can build a holster any way a customer wants, but when it does not perform the way that customer expects he will always remember that it was your failures in design and application rather than his bad ideas that caused the problem. From a business perspective it can be much better to decline an order than to have a dissatisfied customer. Best regards.

Very nice work, and a great compact pouch design. Achieving a balance between retention of the magazine and holding power of the snap on the belt loop can be challenging. If the pouch is very tightly fitted to the magazine the snap can be pulled open when trying to withdraw the magazine. If the pouch-to-magazine fit is loosened to permit easier withdrawal of the magazine (without pulling the pouch off the belt with it) retaining the magazine in that nice compact pouch could be 'iffy'. Designs like this could probably benefit from the 'one way' snaps.

The Kahr CW9 is a plain vanilla no frills version of the P9, differing primarily in not having the slide cut of the P9 version, and plastic sights rather than steel. Rings Manufacturing offers their Blue Gun version of the Kahr that should work nicely. The Kahr pistols in 9mm, .40 S&W, and .45ACP are all very similar in overall size and profile, the major differences being (1) slide width, varying about .01" to .03" or so between the three calibers, and (2) barrel/slide length with 3", 3.5", and 4" models in each caliber.