Lobo

For what it might be worth, I think that you have to have a market niche. I started making holsters, belts, and accessories as a young policeman on a limited salary raising two kids. Anything that I made was needed and appreciated. My little hobby/business/sideline remained that way for many years. After I retired, I discovered the internet. I made and sold firearms-related items on several auction sites, started receiving follow-up orders and referals, built it up to a pretty fair part-time business. I also have a couple of sporting goods stores that display my products, take orders that I complete, and collect from the customer (for which they receive a reasonable percentage). Mama put her foot down, told me she was tired of having supplies, materials, inventory, etc. underfoot all the time, and demanded that I get it out of the house. So, I leased a small space and set up shop. Next, I put up a webpage to display my products, and promoted the webpage in every way that I could. Now, I am at the point of having to make a decision as to whether or not to take it "full-time", as the orders that I am receiving are eating into time that I ordinarily work at another business. I'm receiving e-mail inquiries at a rate that requires 1 to 2 hours per day to respond to, and I am making and shipping 20 to 30 orders per week, which requires 20-plus hours at the bench every week. I have shipped to every state in the US, most Canadian provinces, and 5 other countries to date. Approximately 1 in 5 purchasers send in a second order, and quite a few have ordered several times. I think that I have found my niche. I hope that you will find yours.

Well, I posted this information some time back and received some scathing responses! You would have thought I was a heretic during the Inquisition for even suggesting this. But, here goes once again. I have used Tanners Bond with good results for several years (installing holster linings, assembling holsters prior to sewing). A while back, I was in the middle of a production run and ran out of cement, on a weekend of course. I had a bottle of Elmer's Glue All on hand and decided to try it out on a couple of pieces. Applicator tip is very handy for close work. Cemented up a couple of pieces, dressed and beveled edges, doused in water, wet-formed and cased without problems, finished out the items (including neatsfoot oil and acrylic sealant) and was happy with the results. Strong bond, resists water very well, flexes where necessary with no adverse effects I could determine. I'm not suggesting that anyone change his normal practice. All I'm saying is that there are alternatives worth looking at. Elmer's Glue All is NOT the same stuff found in the little bottles used by school children for scrapbooking projects. It is readily available, and as reasonably priced as anything you will find.

I don't do saddlebags, or anything that is really likely to get soaked. I do holsters, belts, and associated accessory items. I finish everything with a liberal application of neatsfoot oil, which infuses the fibers and resists moisture penetration. After the neatsfoot has settled in for a day or so, I like Fiebing's Bag Kote for a deep, natural luster. Then I apply an acrylic, usually Fiebing's Leather Sheen, for moisture protection. All edges are burnished with a mixture of 50% parafin and 50% beeswax, which seals the edges very well. I would expect my products to take a reasonable amount of moisture without problems, but I wouldn't expect them to stand up to a complete dousing! Being a motorcycle rider myself (2001 HD Dyna Super Glide), I see a lot of bags and accessories made of leathers other than veg-tan, which can't be carved of course, but will certainly stand up to moisture much better. Old-time saddle-makers used a mixture of neatsfoot oil, warmed to a point that it would dissolve beeswax, and applied while in the warm liquid state, then buffed out to a luster. That might be a good start for your carved veg-tan products. The neatsfoot will penetrate and infuse the fibers while the beeswax will provide good surface protection. Liquid silicone might also give good protection. It is available in spray cans, penetrates leather easily, and stays there. Probably a good idea to give your customers some routine maintenance instructions, as anything exposed to sunshine and the elements will require replenishment from time to time.

Monica, we all have days like that, don't we? I'm sure you will have your husband's belt ready for his birthday, and I know that it will be 'primera clase', from everything I have seen that you have done. No extra shop gnomes here, but if you find a source I need a couple myself. Last bozo I hired wanted the job, wanted the paycheck, but couldn't manage to get out of bed everyday, make it to work on time, finish what he started, or clean up after himself! Enjoy your weekend!

If you just need a metal wire attachment, as used on GI belt accessories for about 100 years, send me a PM. I have an original sitting in my desk drawer that I can send to you as a pattern for your needs. Best regards.

Tom Threepersons was a Texas lawman during the early 20th Century, serving in San Antonio and El Paso. In about 1920 Threepersons designed a holster for his own use and had it made by the excellent company S.D. Myres Saddlery. The Threepersons style became pretty much the standard for American law enforcement and sporting use throughout the 20th Century, and remains in production today in several forms. It evolved from a mid-to-high ride open top strong-side holster to incorporate a hammer thong, later a snap-strap retention, and finally as the familiar thumb-break styles made by every major manufacturer. I have made many variations on this theme over the years, and lately have become interested in recreating the original style, as well as offering the original Sheridan-style carving. I have enlisted talented carving artists to recreate the original pattern, and will be receiving submissions shortly. For now, I have made another Threepersons-style in open top, lined with glove leather, and featuring a rotating hammer-retention strap. This one is done in the classic oiled tan finish in 8-oz. Hermann Oaks, 2-oz. lining, welted seam, with pre-formed belt loop to fit a 1.75" belt. Comments welcome. Old fashioned? Yes. But I'm an old guy! I will try and have a carved sample ready in the next few weeks, as I have numerous customers interested in an authentic reproduction of the original pattern and design. Photos (not uploaded in order shown, but I'm sure you can figure them out): 1. Front, with Duncan's dummy gun (S&W L-frame 4") and hammer retention strap. 2. Rear, retention strap swivels down and away when not in use. 3. Inverted, with dummy gun held securely (who says you can't make an open top holster that will retain a revolver?). 4. Welted seam detail and pre-formed belt loop. 5. Front, with removable retention strap removed.

Here you go, Troop. From the temple at Thermopalae.

Lots of folks use wax. It provides a nice polished appearance when applied properly. Not as resistant to wear and abrasion as some other finishes. Many of the finishes available (Resolene, Tan Kote, Bag Kote, Leather Sheen are some I have used) are actually absorbed into the surface of the leather. They might require heavier applications than one would think necessary. I have recently gone to spray application of the final finish, primarily to speed up the production process. For years I found that a sponge thoroughly wetted with the finish to be applied and a moderately heavy application works very well. A final light buffing with an old towel or T-shirt helps bring out the final level of gloss. For most items I prefer Fiebings Bag Kote. The finish is a soft luster rather than a high gloss, and adds some "depth" to the final effect. Resolene is also an excellent product, with a little higher gloss effect. Any of these provide good surface protection. My suggestion for you is to apply your finish coat a little more heavily and, if necessary, don't hesitate to use a second application. Best regards.

I always finish my products with neatsfoot oil, which infuses the leather fibers and remains there to provide protection against moisture penetration and allows some flexibility without worries about cracking or splitting. (see other posts, there are differing opinions on this). In my experience, the oiling after shaping provides long-term benefits with no negatives. I know of several holsters that I made over 30 years ago that are still in use today, and recently had the pleasure of a visit with an old friend still carrying his Colt Combat Commander in a holster that I made in 1978, still working just fine and looking pretty good. I have not identified any negative effects in using the isopropyl alcohol solution with dyes, only benefits in speeding the production process and achieving a good color saturation with even penetration. Best regards.

After sewing I prefer to dampen all the edges, then I use a belt sander and/or drum sander with medium grit. This blends the edge together nicely. Next I bevel the edges. For the burnishing stage I color as needed (if the piece is to be dyed, that usually establishes the edge color properly; if not, I like a brown Magic Marker to get the brown edge on undyed pieces), then I use a mixture of parafin and beeswax (50/50 mix), rubbed into all edges. Finally, I polish the edges with a felt polishing wheel chucked into the drill press. This compresses the edge fibers, infuses the fibers with the wax, and polishes the waxed edge. Final surface finish (Bag Kote, Tan Kote, Resolene, or whatever else you are using) completes the job. I used wooden burnishers for years, chucked into the drill press. Started using the felt polishing wheels a few months ago, about 2" diameter hard felt on an arbor. I like the combined effects of heat and friction, polishing the wax down into the leather fibers. The drill press (or other motor) gets it done more quickly and evenly than any hand-operated method I have ever seen. Works like a charm, and I can burnish out a dozen holsters in 15 minutes or so.

Try dressing the edges on the sander while the leather is damp. This not only reduces scorching, but eliminates dust in the air. Material removed drops as little damp clumps. Makes the work area much more pleasant during this stage of production.

For the holster shown in the photo attached, the basic method is as follows: 1. sew the forward portion of the holster 2. fold the two sides apart 3. lay in the reinforcement and apply the outer leather band 4. sew the reinforcement into place 5. bend the reinforcement to desired shape 6. sew the rear portion of the holster. Completed holster can then be formed to final shape, finished, hardware attached, etc. Best regards.

Very nice job. Glad to hear that your customer was pleased. I haven't used the oil dyes, and I found your comments on results interesting. I have been using spirit-based dyes, rather heavily diluted with isopropyl alcohol, and dipping with good results (after a fair amount of experimentation, of course). Color penetration is very good and usually very uniform. An interesting benefit to the alcohol and dye combination is that the holster forming work can be accomplished almost right away, as the alcohol evaporates off very quickly. This speeds up the overall production process quite a bit by eliminating one drying process completely, and the drying time is much shorter with the alcohol/dye solution than with water. I can set up the dye bucket, dip 10 or 12 pieces, wet-form, and bone them in under 2 hours total, and they are completely dry and ready for final finishing within a couple of hours. I don't know how that might work with horsehide. I have very limited experience with it, but have read that it can require a lot more immersion time to absorb water, so that might be true with alcohol solutions as well. Good post!

Very nice first attempt. Good basic design. Nice forming work. You have already commented on the belt slots, so no more needs to be said on that. Just about every one involves some learning and experience always results in improvements. Thumbs up!

As stated, you may make a belt from any combination of weights of leather. What you have proposed would certainly be suitable for the heaviest handgun. Whether you use 9/10, 8/9, 7/8 or any of the heavier leathers, I would suggest that you either (1) delete the liner at the tongue, or (2) utilize billet straps for the buckle and tongue (ranger-style belt); otherwise it will require a specialized buckle to connect such a thick combination. Any of the veg-tanned straps you mentioned would probably be suitable for belt-making purposes. You really don't want pre-beveled or finished edges, as you will need to dress the edges after construction anyway and that would actually add more work for you. Unless you are dealing with the heaviest applications, you might want to consider using a primary strap of 8 to 10 oz. weight, then a lining of around 3 to 5 oz. weight. This results in a very sturdy belt that is somewhat easier to wear and use for most purposes. As for the idea of pre-forming the belt around an object, that might work pretty well. I like to finish all of my products with neatsfoot oil, which provides flexibility in the finished piece (it also profoundly effects dye colors, so some experimentation with scrap may be a good idea in order to get the colors you want in the finished piece). Attached photo shows my heaviest gun belt, which is a 1.5" width strap of 9-10 oz. with a 1" width strap of 9-10 oz. sewn over it. The 1" strap is used to form billets for the buckle and tongue. As you will see in the photo, the resulting thickness if equal to 6 U.S. quarters stacked up alongside (about one-third inch). This approach is probably an over-kill for most uses, but it will certainly carry the heavier handguns easily.

Good clean functional designs, very nice workmanship overall. I think you should be quite proud of these efforts! Best regards.

I like the plastic approach. Very do-able without having to worry about bending tempered metal (and the likely results described). Good idea, sir.

Your designs and execution certainly meet all essential criteria, and are very appealing to the eye as well. Certainly on the mark for function and form. I hope that a short spell in the dark, quiet room has restored you. Obviously, you have adjusted to the realities of your home territory, and continue to function well. I have visited the UK several times, and I know that you are facing what might seem to be insurmountable obstacles against fundamental common sense on many issues (not the least of which are hunting, firearms in private hands, etc). God willing, and the left-wing creek doesn't rise too quickly, I hope that I never have to deal with the sort of nonsense imposed upon good, honest people who simply wish to live a life of liberty and freedom of choice in their daily lives. Unfortunately, we now have an administration spanning both houses of congress, and controlling the White House, that share a hatred for any vestige of individual liberty. We shall see what the future brings for us here in the U.S. Best regards.

No doubt about it, this does occur from time to time. I call these items "seconds", and sell them at prices reflecting the problem. When the piece is made for a specific customer, I simply make another piece for the customer and throw the first piece into the "seconds" box. Buying top quality leather helps, but even then there will be the occasional piece that misbehaves during the process. Just part of the game, using an organic product subjected to multiple processes to make it usable for intended purposes; occasionally there will be a portion of the material that doesn't want to cooperate. Nice looking workmanship, by the way. Best regards.

Well, once again there appears to be a difference in opinions. On one hand we have the science of metallurgy, and hundreds of years of experience in practical applications. On the other hand, we have what a few people would like for a piece of hardened steel alloy to do when manipulated in such a manner that the structural strength is compromised. Any piece of steel alloy, properly hardened and tempered to serve as a spring, cannot be re-shaped or re-formed without critical damage to the metal structure (at least, not without re-heating and re-tempering for the required application). Any piece of an appropriate steel alloy, shaped to the contours desired, then properly tempered, will retain that shape indefinitely. Forcefully changing that shape causes work-hardening of the affected areas and weakens the structure at those areas affected. There is no way around this point. If one wishes to cause inherent damage to a critical piece, then use that piece for a specific purpose, the results cannot be counted on for reliable service. I don't claim to be a metallurgist. I don't claim to be an engineer. But an elementary understanding of the materials and processes tells me that one doesn't have to graduate from barber college to understand this level of the sciences involved. Best regards.

A spring is made by tempering steel (heating to very nearly the melting point, then quenching in water or oil). This hardens the metal significantly and causes it to retain its shape, and return to original shape when bent. Forcefully bending the tempered spring to a new shape will create stress within the metal, resulting in weakening the metal and making it more subject to breakage. In order for a spring to work as intended the steel must be formed to the shape required, then tempered. For the purposes you have proposed, this would make it very difficult to install into a holster. Hope this helps.

Josh: I do not recommend more oiling. The first application is all that should ever be necessary. As for the long-term outlook, I visited an old friend a few months ago and saw that he is still carrying his Colt Combat Commander in the holster that I made for him in 1978. It retains its shape to this day, retains the pistol securely, and still looks pretty good. I know of several other holsters still in use that I made more than 30 years ago, and I'm reasonably certain that most of what I have made remains (at least) in existence. This tells me that what I am doing remains a viable method. Others have stated that they use different methods and hold different opinions on this subject, and that is fine. There are no "absolutely right" methods, but there are certainly a lot of different methods in use. I'm sure that you will settle upon those that work best for you. Best regards.

For what it is worth, I am a believer in neatsfoot oil for finishing holsters. The oil does not "dry", rather it is absorbed into the leather fibers, and a proper application serves two important purposes. First, the oil allows the leather to flex without cracking or splitting. Second, the oil inhibits moisture absorption. I apply the oil with a paintbrush on the outer sides of each piece, as much as the leather will carry in one application, then allow it to settle into the leather overnight. This results in a piece that holds its shape well, flexes more easily, and returns to shape. Final surface finishes can then be applied. I like Fiebings Bag Kote for the eggshell luster. Others may prefer a higher gloss final finish. Too much neatsfoot oil will make any leather item limp and useless. In my opinion, not oiling a formed holster leaves it dry and subject to moisture absorption, which can lead to mold and mildew in many climates.

Your work will improve with time and practice. Ditto on the sharp corners; not only are they likely to become worn/dogeared/pulled apart, they are also best avoided for the comfort of the user. I think everyone hear has made a few that ended up as chew toys. Don't worry about it, every one is a learning experience that will improve your next effort. By the way, your snap-on clip isn't a bad idea, but a standard snap is not likely to take the stresses applied in use. I would suggest T-nuts with screws and trim washers. Best regards.

Very nice workmanship. Good basic design. Carry angle looks to be pretty steep, but that is a matter of personal preference as much as anything else. I remember Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, watched it at a cheap theater in Kansas City while being inducted into the US Army in 1968. Keep after it, you're doing nice work. And you are right, there is a great deal of information available right here, right now, that has never been generally available before. Best regards.