Lobo

Re: cracking problems. What sort of finish are you using? Personally, I apply a liberal application of neatsfoot oil to everything and this seems to eliminate cracking.

George: I highly recommend Mr. Ashley Schildknecht at Snake Horse Saddlery. He has assisted me with sewing on a couple of occasions. His work it top notch and he gets it done in a timely manner. Best regards,

Your English is much better than my Dutch! Nice photos, very nice work.

Good one, Arturo!

When I started (37 years ago) there was little available to assist the beginning craftsman, perhaps a few books containing information that might, or might not, pertain to particular interests. I had to learn everything the hard way, by trial and error, and more than a few projects went into the trash. There was no internet. There was no Leatherworker.net. My little hobby-business remained modestly profitable for many years. I learned as I went, discovering what worked and what didn't. My market was limited to people I knew and worked with, so sales were sporadic at best, but I picked up a few customers that have been ordering from me for several decades now. Today, with the internet, the marketplace is the world. Social networking sites, topic-specific forums, and web-sites are available to all, and there is someone out there looking for anything and everything. My business continues to grow, and I have recently leased commercial space to take the business out of the house and into a real production facility. Soon, I hope to be training an assistant to do much of the production work while I focus more on sales and marketing. Since discovering Leatherworker.net, I have read many interesting posts, viewed many photos of others' work, and picked up several ideas on how to improve my products and methods. This forum is really a wonderfully valuable resource, permitting us to share ideas, ask questions, get reviews of available supplies and products. Many thanks to those who have made Leatherworker.net happen and continue to operate. A suggestion to all: please consider becoming a contributing member, click on the link at the home page and provide a little financial support to keep this site up and running.

I make holsters and related accessories. When I started (37 years ago) my market was limited to people I knew and worked with in law enforcement. Every order was a one-at-a-time project, and the prices I charged provided little profit for the actual time expended. That was fine because, as a young policeman raising two kids on a limited salary, every little bit helped. I learned to save a lot of time in production by making multiple items in each "production run". If I had an order for a holster for a popular handgun, I would make several. It is amazing how much time is saved simply by not having to set up each stage of the process again and again. Leather work remained a modestly profitable hobby-business for many years. Now, my marketplace is the world, via the internet. I have expanded on this same principle, making a production run each week including the special orders (usually 8 or 10 items) along with regular production of items that sell readily. I do a production run each week that includes about 30 or so items, and complete each stage one day at a time. Making a single holster involves patterning, cutting, sewing, edge finishing, forming, hardware attachment, and finishing. To make a single unit would require about 2 to 3 hours total over several days (drying times, etc. require separation of the processes). Making 30 items usually takes me about 18 to 22 hours (about 40 minutes total on each item). Average profit for the time spent (after materials costs) is usually $25 to $35 per item. On the single item, I might be making $10 or $15 per hour for my time. On the production run of 30 items, that profit increases to the equivalent of about $35 to $40 per hour of my time. True special orders for a specific design (not one of my regular patterns) are completed for a negotiated price, which I arrive at by estimating materials costs and work time. If materials cost is $10 and work time is 3 hours total, I price the item at $100 (materials plus $30 per hour). Not every quote results in a sale, but those that do generate a reasonable profit. The hobbyist, making a single item as much for personal enjoyment as for the sale price to be anticipated, can put in as much time as is required. Perhaps in hind sight the hobbyist will feel slighted by the compensation for the time, effort, and talent applied. From a business standpoint, if there is not a reasonable profit to be anticipated, the job is not worth doing. This is what has worked for me, and has recently resulted in leasing commercial space to continue the business outside the home. With any significant increase in volume I hope to be training an assistant to perform much of the work, while I concentrate more on sales and marketing. Right now I'm having no trouble keeping a two-to-three week production cycle filled, delivering to the customer pretty quickly, and I'd like to keep it that way. Best of luck to all.

The item that catches my eye is the upper line of the holster above the trigger guard. I like to make sure that the magazine release button is clear of the holster so that contact with the holster doesn't pop the mag release. Looking at my Glocks, it appears that you are very close there.

The 1.5" belt fits most typical belt loops. I have a few customers requesting a 1.25" overall width, which I shall be accomodating as needed. The main thing is to have a belt that will support the holstered handgun without twisting or turning under the load, keeping the holster at a consistent position and angle without having to be unduly tightened to a degree that is uncomfortable to wear. These are the factors I am attempting to address.

Welcome to the forum. Looking forward to seeing your first project as it develops. I have on hand (most of the time, and expecting a delivery from Wicket and Craig next week) reasonable quantities of good quality veg-tanned shoulders in 8-9 oz. and 7-8 oz. Feel free to send me your pattern and I will send you the necessary leather for cost (I buy shoulders and sides, so cost is minimized for small pieces, I make 20 to 30 pieces per week). What you will get from the local leather shop will be seconds at best, and not worth your efforts at worst. Been there, done that, have all the receipts! Get after it and get it done. Let me know how I can help. ray.cory@comcast.net

Very nice workmanship and execution. I see where you are going with the low-cut front, but it does appear to reduce the tensioning effect of the pancake style, perhaps limiting the retention qualities of the holster.

Bree: My shop looks like yours? Are you a beer drinker too? When I'm not pounding hides I like to pound the pavement with a 2001 Dyna Super Glide (not a good idea when I've been pounding hides and drinking Budweiser). Enjoy your day!

I understand what you good folks are saying about perforation weakening the axis of the leather at the stitching line. That said, all of my items are treated with neatsfoot oil compound for lasting protection (filling the leather fibers and voids and providing flexibility), so this concern is minimized. As further noted, there are only 4 stitches (approx. 0.66 inches) on the vertical lines, so the concern if further minimized. What really minimizes the stress is the simple fact that this belt can be worn at a position requiring very little tightening to support the weight of a holstered handgun, simply because the mass and bulk of the belt provide all the support necessary without unduly stressing the belt. The weight is carried by the underlying strap of 1.5" width. The overlying strap of 1.0" width serves primarily to provide for buckle attachment and reinforcement of the underlying strap. This is one massively strong gunbelt. Thanks for the comments. Selling like hotcakes, have to go pound some more out!

Last week in the home workshop. As you can see, I have about 20 items in various stages of completion. I'll be moving into the new commercial shop over the next weekend, have a couple of work tables to move and a new bench to build (old one is built into the wall). I've always stressed to customers (who chose to listen) the need for a good strong belt to properly support the weight of a holstered handgun and keep the holster positioned consistently. Some have listened, some have not. Quite a few have asked "So when are you going to start making belts?" Listening to my customers, and never wanting to watch a dollar in profit go elsewhere, I finally started producing belts a few weeks ago. The belt that I am now marketing is a variation on the "Ranger" style, but instead of billets for the buckle I have extended a 1-inch width strap completely around the body over top of a 1.5" strap. Both straps are of 9-oz. shoulder, so this is one seriously strong belt! Overall thickness is equal to 6 quarters stacked up alongside. I've been wearing one for several weeks, and it is very nice to be able to holster a full-sized 1911 pistol without having to tighten the belt to an uncomfortable degree to keep the holster in place and support the weight. So far, since I have been offering the belt as a matching accessory, about 1 in 5 holster customers is buying a belt. So, I think I'll just keep making belts! Photos: 1. side view 2. thickness 3. buckle area detail 4. current production laid out on dining room table while I apply finishes to the leather, and Budweiser to the applicator. Since this one is equal to 6 quarters stacked up, I'm thinking of calling it the "Twelve Bit Belt". Working on a couple of other belt options, maybe they will be the "Eight Bit Belt" and the "Six Bit Belt". No, twelve bits is not the price!

Fabulous workmanship! The relief on your carving is exquisite, and your edges are beyond belief. Thank you for sharing this effort, an inspiration to all of us who think we do good work! Your son is indeed blessed to have a father who will go to such lengths for him. Best regards.

Bree: You are on top of the handy machines for the shop! I'll be getting one of these to replace two or three old timer's tools I've been using for years. Thanks for the post.

Many years ago I stopped even trying to cut perfectly matching edges, always cutting to a line. Then I assemble everything with cement and clamp it together. Then I use both a belt sander and a drum sander to dress the edges. Here is one thing that helps me a lot (since I do 20-plus items per week, and usually at least 8 or 10 at a time): 1. cement and clamp the items sufficiently to hold everything together 2. dip the item in water, just enough to dampen it well 3. dress the edges with the belt sander or drum sander, which will very quickly dress the damp leather down WITH NO DUST IN THE AIR, just a little damp scrap that falls quickly to the tabletop. This also raises a bead at all edges, which I allow to dry thoroughly, then hit it with an edge beveler and the edges are done. An additional benefit of wetting the leather before dressing the edges is that it leaves a roughly burnished edge. After wet forming, while the holster is still damp, I hit the edges with a burnishing tool (hardwood cylinder chucked into the drill press) and have a final bright burnished edge in very short order.

Most of my production is concealment holsters, with variations of the pancake style making up the majority. For many years I used nothing but 8-9 oz. shoulders with good results overall. Lately, I have been making quite a few holsters for lighter-weight handguns from 7-8 oz with good results. This weight is certainly easier to work with, sew, form, etc. For mag pouches and the occasional flashlight holder requested I have used weights down to about 4-5 oz. for the pouch portions, generally with a back made of 7-8 oz. for a stronger belt attachment. The lighter leather has all the strength needed for carrying the weight, can be formed to more intricate shapes more readily, and is less bulky for a streamlined finished product. As noted by RandyC, I am seriously considering a line-up of "economy" grade holsters, perhaps 6-7 oz. leather. There are a lot of folks carrying sidearms now, with 38 states having adopted "shall issue" concealed carry laws, and many of those folks want lower cost alternatives. I'm also considering the lighter weights for my shoulder holsters to reduce bulk. Note to RandyC: thanks for the info on the drum dyed from Zack White! I do get tired of dying everything.

Brady: Snaps are available from any number of on-line suppliers. There are some excellent products made by reputable companies (Dot Fasteners comes to mind), and there are some lesser quality knock-off products (look the same, but performance may not be as good----frankly, this is what you are likely to find at the leather shops!). Buy quality, not low price. Try Fasnap.com or Fastenall (spelling?), should be able to find what you need. Two additional notes: 1. Quantity purchases will cut unit cost quite a bit. I usually buy in increments of 100, last time I ordered I bought 500. Prices are better, and freight charges are lower (shipping 500 costs about the same as shipping 100). 2. Post lengths: Most manufacturers offer several post length. Keep in mind the leather you will be attaching snaps to. 8-oz. cowhide is about 1/8" thick, so a 1/8" post is just a little too short for good results. If you will be attaching snaps at any point involving multiple layers of leather, you need a snap post long enough to penetrate and still provide some length for forming the attachment (snaps are attached very much like a rivet, requiring peening the metal of the post around a hole in the other part).

I've made a few Threepersons-style holsters for the SAA guns, mostly intended for wearing at nice Texas barbeques. Can't remember ever being asked for a concealed carry holster for a single action revolver.

Randy: I kind of specialize in some of the older handguns, those that the big name makers have dropped from their inventory because of demand/profit considerations. Works well for me. Have you considered that this is probably one of the only businesses in existence where we can build our private collections while, at the same time, taking a tax deduction for the cost of every handgun we buy to fill an order? Interesting, truly interesting. Last year I received multiple inquiries for holsters for Model 39 Smith and Wesson holsters, the handgun being out of production for about 30 years. None of the dummy gun manufacturers could be of any help, so I bought a used gun. Paid for itself in 4 orders, and I am still making 2 or 3 per month. If Ring's, ASP, or Duncan's can provide a dummy gun, that is what I will buy. If there is enough demand for a specific model, I will buy the real thing. It is all tax deductible, and I don't recall ever losing any money on a quality handgun. Now I can fill 4 or 5 orders and have the handgun paid for, and ready to shoot or build another holster for. For what it might be worth, my opinions are free and worth every penny of the price.

OK, I've been doing this out of the house for 37 years. I took the business on-line last year. Now I am making 20 to 30 pieces per week. Mama put her foot down, rather firmly. There will be no more inventory stacked up in the house, there will be no more supplies stored in the house. So, I have leased space in a commercial building. I can get the workbenches out of the garage, I can set up the sewing machine permanently, I can stack all the materials in the back room and work in the front room. I can even put in a refrigerator to keep some adult fermented malt beverages handy. A radio will be handy to hear what Rush and Hannity have to say on the events of the day. Life is good! 28 items shipped last week, and I expect to do pretty much the same this week. Not bad for an old retired copper with eight grandkids and a new great-grandbaby! This getting older crap ain't for sissies, but maybe I can keep it profitable. Hang in there, young 'uns! There is light at the end of the tunnel. Maybe?

A characteristic of vegetable tanned leather is that it can be wet-molded to a shape and retain that shape. That is one of the reasons why we use it for holster making. This is a good thing. Water temperature during the wet-forming process makes very little difference. I use warm tap water during the winter time because it is easier on my hands. I use cold tap water during the summer time for the same reason. There is no difference in the results. Forced drying is to be avoided. Set the new piece aside in an area with good airflow and allow it to dry naturally. This can take up to about 24 hours. When the article has dried, you may apply any dyes you may wish to use, then allow that to dry completely. Then, try applying neatsfoot oil compound liberally over the outer surfaces. I use a 1-inch paint brush dipped in neatsfoot oil and just slather the oil on. Then set the piece aside and allow the oil to penetrate and "settle" (it will not dry, rather it is absorbed into the leather and remains there). The neatsfoot oil will give the finished leather a little bit of flexibility, and provides long-term protection against moisture infiltration. After the oil has settled (about 24 hours usually), then apply your final finish coatings. You mentioned Resolene, which is a good product. NOTE: over-oiling will leave the leather limp and useless. I oil it ONE time only, applying the oil generously to the exterior only. The flesh side of the leather and exposed edges will absorb the oil much more readily, so it is easy to over-oil the piece if you apply the oil directly to those areas. With this process you will have a finished piece that will hold its shape well, and will flex sufficiently to perform its job without worries about cracking. I was recently shown a holster that I made for a friend in about 1975. It is still in use and still looks pretty good. The ONLY finish it has ever had was the original oiling, and a little neutral shoe polish applied. Back in those days I made holsters for about $10 or $12. I still make the same style, but I get a little more money now.

Dwight: I can tell that you are an artist at heart! I would love to see some of your stuff, anytime you can photo and post. Me? I'm just a hack, turning out a couple of dozen orders every week, trying to keep the paying customers happy and giving their filthy lucre to me instead of some other guy! I couldn't allow myself to spend the time necessary to do a veg-tan to veg-tan rig, with each layer dyed a different color, UNLESS SOMEONE IS PAYING ME BY THE HOUR to make something like that happen. Again, I value your artistry and talent, and I wish you all the best. Now, I'll get back to work on the 40-plus items I have in production right now and try to have half of those ready to ship by mid-week.

Personally, I agree with all of the above. When a customer asks for recommendations they won't hear about SOB holsters from me. But when a customer tells me that they want a SOB holster, I make it and sell it to the customer. The smarter customers learn the deficiencies of the design pretty quickly, and many come back for something more practical, more comfortable.

Here are photos of one I made up for a customer a few months ago. For a 1911-style pistol with 3-inch barrel/slide group. Much like an Askins' Avenger in overall detail, belt slot on the aft side, tunnel loop on the fore side. (photos taken prior to final finishing). Don't care much for the SOB style myself, but the customer wants one I will do it.