Mocivnik

I couldnt find their website, thanks for it. But it's penny plus, it's this one: https://www.ctpoint.it/en/products/twisted-yarns/penny-plus/

How is possible to do 2 things here: i) burnish edges then "mold" them? As seen small black sheath on the top. To me, it looks like it was done with some sort of string or thread and that it was tied down from left to the right...anyone knows anything better? On the brown sheath on red background, it's even more diverse, so I'm confused on how THAT was done.. ii) How it's done that "carving" on leather on lower pictures? It's like leather have different depth, but not cut out, rather pressed in? Although, this guy is making different shapes every time, I kinda doubt he makes specific tool for each sheath.. Any help would be appriciated!

YES!! THIS SOLVED 99% OF THE PROBLEM. I wasn't aware, that the foot pressure needs to be higher so the machine doesnt skip the stitch. Here's the product now, i've only had 1-2 skips during the red area. (those big blobs are burnt thread, so the stitch stay together) I've also spent quite some time for setting pressure on top 2 screws (top of the machine, nr.1 and nr.2) and both screws under the bobbin (left for pressure, right screw for fixing it). IDK how they are set now, but the machine is working and I'm nearly 100% satisfied. ALSO, the needle I'm currently using is 180, and there is 0% of difference between 180 and 200. It just skips 1-2 stitches per 50 stitches and I'm quite OK with this. I'm a bit bothered about seeing a knot in the hole (that brown ball), but I hope somehow will be solved this one day aswell. Thanks everyone for help, it means a lot to me. And if anyone knows how to solve 1-2 missed stitches per 50 stitches, I'm more that thrilled to find out

Hello Dwight, I changed needles from 180 to 200 and back, but didn't help at all tho. Now: Needle flew easily on even a shorter piece of string, I did that trick already. The needle was looking away from the machine, ALTHOUGH it was a bit tilted, maybe for like 15 degrees, so I fixed that, THANK YOU. I would actually like to give my boss to the company back for a week just to make sure it will work for next decade..But still might send an email for details and buying center Presser Foot (i really hate the STAMP that tippmann does on leather and leaves deep markings). i) So, I was always wondering about the thread, what it is, but I never got much on the data, since I got it shipped from Italy. Here's the sticker, that's on the bottom of the thread: ii) I believe that V138 (#20) thread isn't availible for me. I would somehow prefer using different threads aswell, but local leathershop doesn't offer much of a choice tbh. It's pretty bad down here about leathercrafting in general. iii) I understand, and I believe, this wasnt much of a problem, I believe there's enough space in the groove for the thread. iv) Needle aligned. v) Yes, the needles are pointy ones (7x3), not the dull ones. They are properly sharp and can very easily hurt you. vii) I've used 180 and 200 needle, same effect tho. Im using either 2.4mm (6oz) or 3.6mm (9oz) veg tan leather for the 99% of the time on my machine.

So, my machine didnt sew for months now so I set it aside. Now, when I got projects (thanks God, not in a rush!) for the machine, I decided to either make it work or sell it. Depends on time/cost. So, the problems were/are: -skipping stitches, -when the needle was exiting leather (way out), the needle jumped up front, -clenching and clogging thread. Now, I opened the machine up, cleaned and oiled up a bit some parts, put it back together, and it's working better, but I still have some problems with skipping stitches. I think I set the timing correct (please se first two pictures), I did it by Tippmann Tutorial on how to set timing correct. I've read about the possible issues, why the machine is skipping stitches, but I'd say so: -I think timing is OK. If not, please let me know what's wrong, I believe it's seen on 1st and 2nd picture. -the needle is 180, -the thread is /10 (European size, it's the thickest I can get, but i think US size would be simmilar to 246). It's polyester. The needle slides freely on the thread, if I hold it with both hands and needle hangs through the hole on it. -Needle is oriented as such, that the vertical U-groove is pointing AWAY from the machine, -Needle is new, -Tension on presser foot: no idea how strong it should be, but I try to keep it slightly lighter, so it doesn't damage leather much (although, still skipps stitches even if I "add or take" the pressure) Now, this is the "new" outcome. Also, the bobbin is having a bit too much space. Am I missing a part in here or is that normal? Link to IMGUR for the video on how much space there is around the bobbin. If anyone has idea of what I'm doing wrong, I'd be very grateful.

Those are hell of an advices, but the thing is, she aint my gf :D

nope, dont have any. Neither it's white, so...hardly can do anything about it.

Tried warm water, warm water + detergent, zippo lighter fluid...nothing works at all. Im slowly giving up.

Yeah, that's why I used acetone on swab and on small piece at the edge, so I wouldn't ruin it whole. Never heard of Naptha, but I have some Zippo lighter fluid at home, resting. Deff. will try (swab test at first for sure). Also, a bit concerned of how to get rid of the odor smell? Well, ofcourse....I forgot about the easiest thing Deff. will try today! Thought of it, but I think it's not. It was supposed to be resting against some trousers/jacket, no idea what exactly. I asked, but was told "some other clothes". Asked aswell, she said no. And it's been too long already so she could return it to the store, so that's the reason I got involved into this.

So I got this girl, who brought me brand new skirt she bought, and got stained "without doing anything". Her statement was, that she just folded it over a coathanger and store it in the closet, when she wanted to take it off, it was stained like this. Now my question: what are those stains and how am I supposed to remove them? Material is faux leather (face-dirty: polyurethane, inside is polyester). I tried: isopropanol, 70% alcohol, acetone. First two did nothing, while acetone made a huge mess (thank got I tried on a small piece at the edge).

Well, to be honest, I plan to make stacked handle mostly from natural color, while using a few black pieces by the end of the handle in between to add the contrast. But I find it difficulty to burnish it because of the shape, as it's not a good shape for wooden slicker tho. @chuck123wapati: thank you for tips!

Are you interested in shipping overseas? (Europe)

@PastorBob and @chuck123wapati: thank you, both of you! And just a question about finishing touch: what to use to finish the leather? I assume, when I glue it together, I sand it with some 240 grit sandpaper (dremmel), and then use...what? Usually I finish my edges with water + burnished, after it's dried, I just apply Fiebing's pro dye/edge kote and that's it.

it's not exactly white, it's more like yellow-transparent. Gets very tacky quick and I use it for most of my leather projects. @chuck123wapati I appriciate this info, but to be honest, I don't even know what exactly a contact cement is. In Europe, we dont use this term. The blue "MOVI Multikol" glue, I attached earlier, is super simmilar to this glue. If anything helps, tho.. https://www.kemostik.com/neostik-en/products-adhesives/universal-glues/neostik-universal-en/

First attempt was made with epoxy, which turned out pretty bad. I'm generally using this glue as for leather to glue together, should it turn out better?

Is there a leather holster (template), that is IDPA approved for Colt 1911? (and preferably IPSC aswell, but can be 2 different designs)

yeah, but I was just looking for a bluegun, to make it easier. @frodo: the BB gun won't save me any money on this @gatogordo: I saw that, but I'm not sure, how accurate are they. You got any of them printed and tested? (any gun, no need for 1911 in particular)

I think it's bracelet. But no matter the leather beneath the edge, I still think it's some sort of wax/rubber that you somehow "install" to the edge.

Customer wanted me to do some specific edges, as I got this photo for reference. Ever since I used to burnish edges with wooden slicker + water, later on I added pro dye or edge kote, depends what I had at home. But these edges seems to look completely different, anyone got any idea on how to achieve them? Would be really helpful.

1 week ago exactly at this hour I missed my veins for an inch.

Actually, I'm not working often with this kind of leather, but I also discovered what's best to cut with (so far): fresh new blade from the box. Cuts like a butter, is working for me just perfect tho.

ah, so many words for cow in english :D And yeah, I noticed, I had to cut straps using ruler and stanley knife, it's impossible to use anything else. But still, the leather is a blessing, it's really good one. Did the hot water thing on it, showed no special movement at all, so I don't think its veg. tanned.

Okay, this is very accurate answer of what I was actually looking for Thank you. Yeah, I know about single and double stacked mags, they are popular in IDPA/IPSC. Great, now I know what I need for holsters :D

What's a bovine? and what exactly is milled grain? What's the boil test? Well..that's exactly what I did, but they told me "yeah, we just took this hide at one of the sellers, we don't know which one, nor which exact type of leather this is". I think he said it's veg tan, but not so sure anymore.

I got whole hide of this leather into my hands at the local leather shop, but just after 2 projects I ran out of it. It's a really good one to work with, despite it looks bloddy amazing and comfortable to wear/bend. It's 2.5mm thick (about 6 oz.). Anyone knows, what type of leather this would be? Any help appriciated.