Mocivnik

@Constabulary: Well, actually..quite common here. Dies comes from Italy and I don't really know why they use this system. Company called MOVI, from this site http://www.fbg-italy.com/ . The press was bought in Slovenia, but I believe it comes from Italy aswell, as I could find it in their catalogue. I don't mind very much about it, since I had bigger press and had to re-do taps on my dies (some time ago) so they were compatible as much as 1/4-24 as with M6 (the difference is really small, 1.4mm on 1 inch). I will buy tap and dye and just make all of them on same size (1/4-24) and hope never to change any system (as it's going to be VERY expensive).

@JLSleather: You had me for 5 mins now. I went to workshop downstairs and tested - it fits, but loose. Probably because the diameter of screw is 6.2mm instead of 7.0mm(as for M7). I think that 1/4-24 is the right one. And it's the same problem for M6 screw, which has pitch of 1mm (25.4 threads per inch). It fits first two turns, but then it gets stucked. (And as we all knows, dies should sit NOT on thread.)

Haha :D I had already opened this one in my bookmark :D https://www.ebay.com/itm/1set-1-4-0-25-inch-American-Standard-thread-HSS-Machine-Plug-Tap-Die-Tool/113597039233?hash=item1a72e94281:m:m3VtHpyglUBMi6wmV1XySjg 8$ isn't so much for a tap + dye while i have to make 2 handles for dyes and cut ~10 taps on my tools, which aren't compatibile with press (yet). I've measured it before. But I cannot measure the gauge on the inside, as it's too small hole. I can measure it on "screw" part because it's outside.

Not just possible, 99% it is. As soon as I've finished this post I figured out that this is probably the right thread (but having a problem, since I don't find it by any standard..especially not on maryland metrics).

I've got myself a hand press(bottom pic, nr. 2), where all the dyes have this unusual(and unknown to me) thread on them, to fit inside (top). At first, I thought it's M6 (as it's very standard thread!) but by closer inspection, I noticed it's not. It's close, but it's not M6. I measured the pitch of the thread and it's 24, while diameter (of screw) is 6.2mm. Does anyone knows what thread this is? (I need to know what thread is so I can edit some other dies to it)

Whenever I want to go to /forum/discover/content-posted/ I get kicked onto https://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php I don't like it either.

I got these stamps as a gift not knowing I already have most of them. Looking for 15€ (17$) + 8€ shipping worldwide (9$) OBO. I accept trade aswell (make me an offer or show what you have to sell/trade). Numbers: X503S (E684) Z-U853 Z-V407 Z-A104 Z-Q431 Z-B701 Z-V707 Z-S706 V407 Z-P217 +

Barely used, end strap cutter 1 3/4". Looking for 35€ OBO. Can ship worldwide.

I'm searching for pliers or something simmilar tool to "hand-rivet" leather. Anyone knows where to buy some or even at least, full name of this tool?

@fredk: Not a problem. @Scoutmom103: I could find only this. But this doesn't help a lot. Thanks anyway.

I'd be very grateful to you, if you could do that Thank you very much so far!

I'd like to make a present for a friend of mine, who owns a Olympus trip 35 camera, a leather pouch with strap around the neck. But the problem is, that I cannot get this camera nor pattern for it. Therefore, I'm asking on this forum in hope of getting any useful information for it.

I know this is >10 years old post, but..where the hell did you get those bullet rivets? :D they look outstanding!!!!

@rockyasussie: that's exactly what was I up to. To just engrave the holes. I think this is the way to do it from here on

Yes I do, but I use the knot as close to the needle. Never actually thought of it, might use it. Thanks for the hint! Secondly: where do you even get unwaxed thread? All i could find on ebay is waxed..

@RickyAussie: Yeah, I just got that hint now aswell. I wasn't thinking that this should be a problem, because I thought only "edges" of holes could produce dirt, but they were covered with resolene. Certanly something to remember, thank you! @Vabax: Yes, laser cut -> dye -> resolene. I can't really say much about this: I'm doing mostly in dark brown or only neatsfoot oil color, both times thread gets dirty. I'd say it's 99.9% of the charcoal in the holes. I never thought of it before. What about spirit based/oil based dye change? Should that affect aswell? I've always been using fiebing's pro dyes.

Thank you both for answers. My procedure is a bit different, as I use laser to cut templates and holes. Never thought of holes to Make that much of a dirt on a thread. It cvant be anything else, as I do same way. I dye my leather with dye and resolene it later, so 9nly unresolened part are holes, which actualy darken the thread. Juat a question more: how abouz nonwaxed thread? Would work better in case of laser using further?

SO, I'm having this problem, as 90% of my work is dyed in brown (using fiebings pro dye (acryl) brown and variants of brown, later Acrylic resolene, fiebings) but as soon as I use beige(or simmilar cream color) thread, it gets dirty and cannot be seen as it should. I'm hand stitching all the time, using waxed thread from ebay (150D, like here https://www.ebay.com/itm/260M-150D-1MM-Leather-Sewing-Waxed-Thread-Hand-Wax-Stitching-Repair-Cord-Craft/163010184501?hash=item25f42a0535:m:mJTZ0Uh29ZikOBGV7Bsyfmw:rk:1:pf:0). Is there anything I could do? I've also tried the Ritza tiger thread, cream color. Same thing happened, after only 2-3 stitches it all got dirty.

First is a revolver holster (very typical), where I engraved a longhorn's skull on top. Maybe not the best position but..hope will do better on next one. Second is a holster for SIG P226, made for a friend. It's rom veg tan aswell, but different producer.

So, I'm using 3-3.5mm thick veg tan (8-9 oz), and trying to make first Buscardo holster. Or as it's also known, foldover. I've got a good proper template, but can't really do the folding part. How long should I add on the top to be enough to use as foldover?

You Sir, You just gave the best answer I have ever got on any forum (and I'm attending quite few of them!). This is exactly something I wanted to hear, thank You very much!

Since I'm quite new to this, I cannot really find a literature, which would talk about general use of single parts of a hide. What are each part used for (shoulder, bend, back-spine, belly and butt)? And what are the thicknessess of those parts by general meaning, where is the most homogen leather compared to other parts, which is the strongest, etc.?

We're not in the same cart now I'm looking for everything else than what you've said.

Hmm. Yes, I've been thinking about that too but except hole punches(also prongs) and stamps, there is no other simmilar items. All different. Various sizes and shapes. Some tools are even without handles. It's difficult to do something as that. About rivets, tucking all the PVCziplock bags in the drawstring bag = clever. That's something I'd do.

Hmm. It has to close down and be packed in a backpack. More likely a satchel or something..that can be carried in a backpack or single aswell.