Mocivnik

I need a motor operated burnisher, but now I have a "problem" with discovering the design. I know I can draw and turn one by myself, but does anyone has any blueprints already? I need something for standard sizes, from 2mm up to 15mm (knife sheaths, mostly). I'm talking something simmilar to this:

Has anyone got any blueprints for a burnisher like this one?

Sorry no. But it's mirror one side to another. On both sides bulges are the same. I can add 2 more photos, as I don't have the holster on me right now (but will at the end of the week).

So, I've made this first holster, from the pattern of the JLS leather. I think it came out OKAY-ish, but not the best as I'd like to. I've got this "Problem", where I stitched the holster together, then damped it in warm water (not hot!) and moulded it by the gun. The real problem here is, that I had to mold both sides instead of just one, as now the holster is convex on both sides, but I'd like to be only on the outter side (and flat on the side, that is touching your hip). Does anyone knows, how to re-do the template, so I will dampen only the outter side and it will be enough space for the gun? Thanks for all the help!

Certanly! I'm following him on ETSY, facebook, youtube..everywhere. I really like his style, although I haven't bought any of his paterns yet. Maybe one day...

Customer asked me for possible options for a holster for Sig P229. Has anyone ever made one and has a pattern maybe? thanks.

So I came across this fancy tool, which I'd like to purchase, because my arbor press just isn't for all the possible angles to rivet or punch holes. Anyone knows, where could I find a hand press like on photo below (or link at at 15:00)? It has to have a thread 1/4" and pitch 24 turns per inch on the one side and 1/2" straight hole on the other side?

nr. 2 still availible? how much for shipping to europe?

how much is shipping to Europe for Meyers lacing awl = $7

Since it's nearly impossible for me to get a bottle of Fiebing's PRO DYE in color of DARK BROWN, but I have a project, where I ran out of dye only for a small part left, I'm searching for someone, who is willing to sell some leftovers of mentioned dye (in case you don't need any more) or who could dye a small veg tan belt dimensions of 60 cm x 20mm. It's a small leather belt for around leg for a machette sheath, but I ran out of dye and cannot get it anywhere for now :S Preferably from Europe.

hmm. The thing is, that I cannot get another bottle of PRO dye, as there is not seller selling the small (112ml) bottle under 30$. I already got other dyes, simmilar brown colors, but explicitly for this case, I need the same shade of the Fiebing's PRO DYE DARK BROWN.

Since I cannot get another bottle Fiebgin's PRO DYE DARK BROWN in near future, but I have to dye some piece in near future, I need to know the difference in Fiebing's Leather dye and Fiebing's PRO dye. My first part of the project is painted with Fiebing's PRO dye DARK BROWN then I ran out of dye. I can order now only Fiebing's Leather dye in DARK BROWN color. Will be there any difference in the colors of both things? (there is 1 layer of leather attached to the other).

@DrmCa: Ofcourse. I'm more than satisfied with it. At first, I had a regular arbor press, just like this one, got it for 69€ new one. Then I saw, that I cannot do anything with it, because it's too light and has too short lever, so I proceeded to next press, for which I don't even know, what's it's name. I got used one (but in good condition) for 100€, but it ranges about 160-180€ regulary. Why is this one better? It has better transfer of power. It reaches max. power just 1mm before finish. In calculations, you have infinity power :D The way it works, will be better seen on pictures from this link: http://www.universalgripco.com/arbor-press It has adjustable for 180mm height + it has somewhere about 60mm of pressing. PS: I've been punching out holes with this press only 2 days ago. I could punch out a round hole of 36mm in diameter with only 2 fingers! It was super easy and I highly reccomend it to any leatherworker.

@Northmount: Yeah, I've noticed that. Always, when I use new batch of leather, I "sacrifice" a rivet/snap/whatever and try it, how it will hold. @drmca: Yup. But I've managed to use the first ones on 7/8 oz. veg tan..but I will most likely change them.

@alisdair: thanks! That's just the information I was searching for! Really appriciate the reply!

Are there any snap buttons, that are prefered for leatherworK? I've came across for only these two (different pictures), where one has the "male" part with the hole (second picture), for which I think, that they are meant for thicker leather, while the top picture one's are meant for thinner leather. Am I right or is this user's preference only?

Are there any "rules" about which colors goes with which dye? I'm usually using black leather with silver rivets and brown leather with antique brass rivets, whenever the customer leaves it to my oppinion. Are there any other "restrictions or regulations"? What color of the leather goes best with polished brass rivets? I'm talking about veg tan, mostly belts, knife shaths and pouches.

Well, so far I've used only 2 brands for dyes..Fiebings and Colore di Inferno. Second is okay and 70% cheaper, but Fiebing's the real stuff. And if it soaks up very much per project, well.. Is there any possibility to dilute to dye? Fiebings pro dye?

@ComputerDoctor:Thanks for the compliments. I'm getting an arbor press soon now why is it a pain to dye inside of projects? I don't know, I don't do it because I like the "natural" look of the leather on the inside. But I might one day. And it soaks up really a lot of (not so cheap) dye..

@LetterT: 1. Well, I guess I pressed the stamp too hard. I'm using a vice to stamp for now, but hopefully, I'm getting a knacking press within a month. Will do it more even and will have to test different materials on background of leather. I used hardwood for now. 2. I did painted it with Fiebing's edge kote, but I guess it wasn't finished on this pic yet. Unfortunatelly, I've uploaded these photos waaaaaaaay too fast. I should wait until September, when I will (hopefully) be able to finish plenty of stuff more). 3. Yeah, I really wanted a 2-prong leather belt for myself, but buckle as this, isn't very practical. You need 5 times much time as with 1 prong to close it. They're not conected between and it's a bit harder to center both into holes. I'm searching for this kinda buckles, they're easier to deal with.

Well, here we go: This is an axe sheath made from 5 oz. veg tan, colred with FIebing's PRO DYE color dark brown. Single layer, then put over resolene and seal's fat for gloss finish. I've also added a single strap with 2 snap buttons to hold on, but haven't got that pic on me, sorry :/ This sheath is actually fully functional, although it's not very good looking. THis was a first ever made sheath from me, so it's like a 0x00 Pilot version :D :D :D There are some extra holes around that rivet and just doesn't look very good. The next thing is a machette sheath. 6-7 veg tan, colored with FIebing's PRO DYE color dark brown. I've noticed, that I should NEVER EVER used more than 1 coat of this dye, because it gets bad on some surfaces. Never ever applying 2 or more coats (here I applied 3 coats of dye). Total lenght: 590mm or 23.2 inch. And the final one, the dagger's sheath. Dyed with Diablo (italian company) black (nero) dye, alcohol based. APplied resolene on top. Made from 7 oz. veg tan. The dagger is also made by me, but the handle + pommel at the end isn't finished yet. Still need to add some kind of a strap, to hold a knife on place.

Here are my first real leather attempts: First are 2 belts, I've made for collegues.. And a couple of biker's wallets I've came up with. Nothing special, but they are the first ones, I've made. The left one was a present for a friend of mine, who gave me a hand couple years ago and wasn't able to meet him until a month ago.

@fred: sorry, it says 44 inches. I'm constantly using metric system and just got wrong. this is the actual ad: https://www.ebay.com/itm/real-Cobra-snake-skin-hide-tanned-snakeskin-genuine-Pelts-Leather-soft-no-63/153021187985?hash=item23a0c60791:g:jdsAAOSwXqVaj6BC @JLSleather: is the belly-cut better than back-cut?

so you think, this is worth of 15$ ?

I've found it cheap on ebay and want to try it (this will be my first attempt crafting with leather beside cowhides), I am wondering, what kinda snake is this? It says, it's 24" long and 4" wide (100 x 10cm). The price is about 15$/piece.