Mocivnik

@fred: sorry, it says 44 inches. I'm constantly using metric system and just got wrong. this is the actual ad: https://www.ebay.com/itm/real-Cobra-snake-skin-hide-tanned-snakeskin-genuine-Pelts-Leather-soft-no-63/153021187985?hash=item23a0c60791:g:jdsAAOSwXqVaj6BC @JLSleather: is the belly-cut better than back-cut?

so you think, this is worth of 15$ ?

I've found it cheap on ebay and want to try it (this will be my first attempt crafting with leather beside cowhides), I am wondering, what kinda snake is this? It says, it's 24" long and 4" wide (100 x 10cm). The price is about 15$/piece.

sent a pm

Anyone knows, where could I get any? Ebay doesn't find anything useful.

I know about them, but I really don't like their look. I don't know why, because I could bet my head, that they are stronger than any other rivets, but the look...just isn't something I'd put on my work. Which still doesn't say, that I don't admire other people's work with them! Mind if I ask, where did you get them?

Yes, I'm aware of that, but I'd like to somekinda avoid this. I believe, that if I "stock" myself with various rivets (lenghts, diameters, colors, etc.), I can work for a long time and without obstacles (as long as you have a reliable supplier). That's why I'd like to make myself a proper stock of rivets from 4 up to 15mm sized head, single and double, including at least 4-5 different distances on each rivet, all in every color (antique brass, polished brass, silver, gunblack and copper).

I'm constantly having problems with lenght and diameter of rivets while making (mostly) sheaths. It gets difficult, combine the diameter of the rivet's head with the lenght, depending on close to edge and thickness of the leather(layers). Is there any kind of "universal" rivets, that has something such as: 1 size of the head and 3 or more different lenghts of the base? And there are several sizes, such as (5mm diameter - 3,5,8,10,12mm lenght; 8mm diameter - 5,8,10,12,15mm lenght, etc.)? It would be infinitely easier to rivet nearly anything.

So, I've just closed the lid of the first empty bottle (yaay! ) of Fiebing's PRO DYE (dark brown, but that's not important right now) and came to point, where I'm ordering new one(s). What my question here is, is what's the actual difference between: Fiebing's Leather dye, Fiebing's PRO dye, Fiebing's Acrylic dye, Fiebing's low voc and Fiebing's leathercolors? I think that Leather dye is the one, which is based on alcohol, while PRO dye is oil based (?). What is advantage of which, if I'm using only daubers to apply the dye? Probably is best to mention, that I'm doing mostly knife sheaths and gun holsters. PS: What's with the fiebing's neatsfoot oil compound? Is it good for knife sheaths and gun holsters?

An utility knife, very simmilar to the one on photo below. I was searching for just what you've written, the head knfie, but I cannot find any below 30$ (which are from china). I also have several punches for inside curves, but I often need curves such as 100mm radius or even more. I need a proper head knife, but I cannot find a proper one for reasonable price.

Looking for something such as this, anyone got any?

etsy..?

This guy made an awesome one! PS: he also sells his templates.

Whoa! That first chapter blew my mind! I thought that any skiver shorter than 20cm (8") is just for belts and that there are waaaay wider...but OK, thanks! 3mm veg tan really isn't a problem to cut with knife, but I'm having difficulties at curves - axe and knife sheaths. Having difficulties at making beautiful curves and that's what's bothering me. I though I could do it better with 3 in 1.

Thank you, this really helps me understand more! Yes, I actually just need something to cut 2.5-3.5mm thick leather, because I really dislike cutting with knives the large curves at knife sheats. Beside that, i'd really like to have also a splitter. I'm getting my leather quite cheap, but it's not the best on back side (i get half for 100€). I'd really like to get that 3 in 1, but they're all really expensive..I thought I could get some old (but still usefull for <200$). But if I could get a cutter for under 100$, that'd be even waaaaaaay better.

What dimensions should be holes for needle for thread? I'm using a 150D thread. Would be 1.5mm hole enough for it?

Thanks everyone for answers, I happily read them all! But the thing is, that my sheath-to-be has to be "half-open" as such, because the blade will be a bowie with sharpened back (not whole, just the tip). And that's why I'm so confused.

I'm actually having real difficulties right now, I'm struggling for a day straight now "how can I solve this"! You see, the photo below is my drawing of the sheath with knife. Red: The full tang knife. Yellow: Bottom layer (the one, which is slosest to human skin while hanging) Green: Top layer, the face of the sheath. The middle layer isn't properly marked with color, but it's about 0.5mm thicker than the knife blade. All three layers are from same leather, 7/8 thick (3mm). Handle of the knife is from very top to the slightly curved line, where the red matches the green part. What my problem here is is that I cannot figure out, how to "end" the belt loop. Can't determine length AND shape of upper part of bottom layer (yellow), neither how to fix it. Should I use rivets, should I sew...I'm lost here. I want to avoid a belt loop like this, I'd like to turn it outside-in, so the smooth surface will be seen (From bottom to the middle layer, just to be clear). I can't figure it out, whether how long it has to be, (I know at least 2 lengths of the knife handle + 1 inch (25mm) for the curve on the top?), where to reconnect with midddle layer and what shape it should be. I hope I was clear, although I don't think I was :D

The customer in this occasion is me And I'm just asking questions for myself And the only thing that holds me back now is the size of the leather I've got :D

Thanks! Are there any pros and cons of anything of these 2 options?

I've always got a dilemma, how high on the belt the knife should be. Are there any kind of unwritten laws about this? (we're talking about fixed blades, not folders, ofc) I've seen some holsters, which keep a whole knife handle over the belt, just like this pictuer below.. ...while some are super low, as the top of the handle barely reaches the upper edge of the belt, as shown below.

PS: I really hope I will geta a machine like this one day. How suitable is it for making holsters and sheaths?

First one is this: It's used for separating leather layers. I have some hide, which I'd like to take off the inner layer, since it's quite bad to use in my projects. PS: Does it exist the "big" as such to send through the 20-30cm wide sheet of leather? (~10 inches) Second one: I'd like to use this machine for cutting curves for leather projects I do (knife sheaths). I'd use it to cut ~3mm thick veg tan most of the time. PS: What are normal prices for these 2 machines? I'm searching for used ones, NOT NEW.

So I've bought a half of a cow of 2.5-3mm thick veg tan leather, which is quite good (i think id rate it 7/10), especially for the price, 120$. It's 2.4m^2. But too late (at home) I noticed, it has a bit "hairy" parts on the back, which means, it's not as smooth as it should be. It looks like there's a hair, long from 5mm - 10mm and it's quite a lot of it. There are some areas, where's a bit reduced, but mostly it's superhairy actually. Is this kinda leather used for anything? I cant really take it back, so thats why I'm asking. On front side it looks quite okay. A bit rough and witha strong texture (natural texture of leather, ofcourse), as it's also very stiff. What I want to use it for? Leather knife sheaths.

Is that a chrome tanned leather?