Hildebrand

If this is something you are looking at as a show piece for your work replace it. Todd

I have gone to just using a groover that puts an indent in the leather, doesn't scratch or cut the top layer. I found this works better oops situations and if I groove after I die there is not a white streak to possibly show under the stitches. Todd

I have pretty much quit stitching backward. To backstitch when I start, I turn the piece around so I am sewing forward toward the starting point, I usually try to mark about 3 stitches out, then when I get to the starting point I turn the work around and still sewing forward go back over the 3 starting stitches and sew it the rest of the way, when I get to the end I again turn the piece around and backstitch 3 stitches sewing forward along the stitch line. Todd

Good start, it looks like your leather was a little to dry when you were tooling, there are several good posts on here about casing leather for tooling. Keep practicing and in a month look back at this one and compare it to what you are doing then. Todd

Just beautiful, very nice work. Todd

Thank you both for the kind words, the scabbard is for a Thompson Center Encore. Todd

I usually carry a knife and leather man combination when I am working outside or camping/hunting/etc. I have 2 sets one stays on the work pants the other moves depending on what I am doing. Both needed new leather so I took the leather man pattern from the Leather Crafters Journal and modified it to hold both. The scabbard is to carry a single shot pistol in a backpack, you could also carry it on a saddle but I don't have any stock so backpack only. The zipper keeps it pretty weather tight. It is based on the scabbard build in The Art of Making Leather Cases. Todd

This topic comes up frequently where to buy the metal portion of the clip to hold the tape measure. I made a holder recently, this one has a pencil pouch also, and decided to try just getting a conduit clip with 2 holes in it and bending it into the right shape. It worked great, they are cheap and easy to bend with just 2 pairs of pliers, I was ready to put it in the vice but they are really pretty soft metal. Todd

I usually sand by hand unless it is a multi layer knife sheath, holster or scabbard. If the edge is pretty square I use 200 then 600, if it needs a little squaring then I start with 150, and that usually gets me a nice smooth slick edge. I use water and saddle soap for the slicking part. Todd

I generally put a coat of NFO on and let it set 24 hours before dying. I finish with Resolene diluted 1:1 with water and have never had a problem. I use a wool pad for the NFO just putting enough of a coat on to see the color change, I am not soaking it with the NFO I think you can over do it and make your leather too soft. Todd

@kgg hit it on the head on all points, nice assessment Kgg. Todd

I use that same method, I keep some scrap around and make a piece the same thickness I am going to sew then sew a line of stitches on it. Does two things, makes sure everything is running right and it gives me a way to measure 3 stitches. I use my wing dividers set them in the holes and make a mark 3 stitches in on the project and start there and sew back to the start point then forward over the 3 stitches and on down the project. Todd

Looks like a good start, 2 things I would look at when you make your next one is grip clearance, looks like it might be difficult to grab the grip of the gun, second is make sure you don't cover the magazine release. Todd

I can’t help on the thread issue but, yes you have to back stitch to lock the stitches.

I like the discussion @bruce johnson I will throw out there, slicking or burnishing really only matters to us leather workers. Most customers don't even notice the bright shiny, glass smooth edge on a piece unless you point it out and then they usually just glance at it and say, that's nice. Todd