JJN

The seller I mentioned above (BMF Wholesale) also has upper and lower bushings, bobbin case openers, gears and more for the 563.

I bought a 563 hook from this seller on ebay. Great transaction. He seems to have a good supply of them. Genuine Juki in the factory box. $79.90 I should buy a couple more just to have spares or trading material. https://www.ebay.com/itm/362433295974?epid=12021676469&hash=item5462b53666:g:ibYAAOSwWORblvrE There is another seller that wants $269 for a genuine Juki 563 hook.

Nice machine. It should serve you well!

Glenn, I did. it cleaned up real nice. There is not much wear that I can see. I am not using it though, kind of a display item in my office. I picked up two other patchers since. An Adler 30--15 and a Singer 29k72. I want to get the Singer 29k72 restored and working in my shop. John

I finally got the two cams I have from storage. The white delrin cam is a reproduction triple zig-zag cam. It looks like it was laser cut. The other cam is an original Berinia 217 cam #29 that make a scallop-like satin stitch. The dimensions on the triple zz cam should be pretty accurate. No guarantees! The delrin cam is .064" thick. The metal cam is .060" thick.

Hi Michiel, I bought the cam about 4 years ago from a seller I found online. It appeared they were an older couple and losing interest in selling them. They had all the cams reproduced in white delrin. The cams were $22.50 each. I cannot find the site now. Maybe I can find the receipt in my records. I have to go to my storage to get the cam. I will scan it and make some precise measurements for you. Give me a couple days to get it. John

Hi @Smooooth, I am using this machine for the same single purpose as I was before. I am happy with the results as an edge finisher. That machine runs like crazy and is trouble free. If you use a larger thread you may have to adjust some of the clearances around the guides and loopers. The holes in the loopers might be a little tight for a heaver thread. I am still using the Tex 45 bonded nylon with a #14 needle.

That is a beautiful machine. Nice job getting it cleaned up.

The Chikon looks like a Consew 206rb. I have 2 of them. They are great machines. That would be my pick.

I am not familiar with those makes and models. They are probably clones of better known designs. Can you provide photos of both of the machines so members can give you better advise? Condition is also a big factor and photos of the actual machines will help.

Belle, Hopefully someone that has knowledge of the 226R will chime in here. Here are some general rules. If two metal parts are in contact and spin, push, slide or rub they need to be oiled. Lily white sewing machine oil is all you need. When in doubt, oil it. Look for fiber wicks that carry oil into hard to get places and keep them oiled. Look under the slide-out cover on the top right of the machine. Look for felt pads and any moving parts and oil them. I am not sure but the main bearing on the handwheel may be a sealed ball or roller bearing. The gears under the bobbin should be oiled. Good luck! John

Hi Belle, Here is a manual for the Juki 562/563 that is very similar to your Consew 226. Look at the lubrication instructions and see if it covers your questions. John Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf

I think what Wiz was asking is are the U size bobbins you are getting 'in spec''. Sometimes aftermarket parts are made with slight dimensional errors and cause problems.

Never run your machine with a loaded bobbin while you are not actually sewing. Such as winding a bobbin. Even if the upper thread is removed, the thread will birdnest around the hook and cause the kind of jamming that will trigger your safety clutch. If you did this, this is most likely the cause of your problems. I suspect you still have thread wrapped around your bobbin case or hook. I suggest you clear any remaining thread from your hook before you sew again.

Read the manual about the safety clutch. It sounds it is disengaged.