kgg

I have done it with a circular saw with a fine tooth blade, a table saw with a fine tooth blade and I have also used a jig saw. I apply 1 " sticky mashing tape to the table top surface and mark the cut line. The tape helps prevent chipping. I then mark and cut the ends the same as the original ends. If the edging has a center alignment / holding wedge as most do I tape the raw edge and mark it. Then using a circular saw I cut a slot deep and wide enough to allow the wedge part of the edging to fit in. I also cut the inside wedging of the edging so it will go around the bend. I do a test fit and either use contact cement or sometimes I use silicone to hold the edging in place. To help straightening and get the edging to around the new bends I will heat the edging with a heat gun. I also completely remove the original edging so when it is reinstalled the two ends meet about center of the back edge of the table top. Sometimes I just forego the original edging and use 1 1/2" metal trim edging that has a small lip. The lip will cover up any chips that may have occurred during cutting the new edge. Just depends on the quality of the table top. The cheaper table tops made with a press board core and thin top skin seem to always want to chip. I have to ask why are you lifting the machine and table top with the motor to your bench rather then using the table frame the machine can with? Are you tight on space??? kgg

Nicely done but how are you planning on winding your bobbins?? kgg

I have never used a post bed machine but this one wouldn't be my choice for a couple of reasons. i) only has 7mm clearance under the presser foot and your stack is 5.6mm. I think you would need your stack plus an extra 3.2mm or 8.8 mm minimum. ii) uses a 135 x7 needle iii) max thread size unknown Why not use a cylinder bed machine?? kgg

Why the smaller bobbin thread??? By doing that you have degraded the strength of the stitch to that of V207. The seam is going to be only as strong as that of the thinner V207 thread. The #24 needle is only recommend for V207 not 277. Here is a good reference chart for needle size to thread size. ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). Using the incorrect needle size can cause tension problems and the thread being caught in the needle hole which can cause bottom thread inconsistencies. In thicker leather move up a needle size. Sometimes you would use a larger top thread then whats in the bobbin for the visual appearance of the top stitch but using the correct needle size for the top thread. kgg

First thing is to figure out what the running length of the dies you want to use, thickness of leather and the necessary tonnage required to punch the die through. A alternative to a clicker press be it slower that may work is a hydraulic press. A 20 ton press will cost about $250 USD. kgg

Very nicely done. kgg

I don't think you are going to get the bobbin winder installed with the motor and reducer pulley mounted on the top of the table. My approach would be a more conventional method of mounting the motor and speed reducer on the underside of the table top. Cut a long slot probaly about 6" long for the machine belt directly below the sewing machine handwheel inline with the belt pulley part of the handwheel. The belt would be straight down through the table top to the small pulley of the speed reducer. The bobbin winder would be then installed pretty much as it was before installing a speed reducer. Once you choose which way you want to approach installing the speed reducer either on top of the table top or below and you have the speeder reducer installed. I would take length of string and wrap it like a belt would be around the pulleys, measure the length and add 2 inches to get the length of the belt needed. kgg

My take/ opinion so take with a grain of salt : 1. The Cobra is just one of many clones based off the Juki LS-341 except my understanding is the Cobra is a hybrid clone using another type of bobbin assembly rather then the Juki assembly. Most clones come from China or Taiwan. The Juki LS-341 and the newer Juki LS-1341 are made in Japan. 2. Some clone machine vendors have a tendency to rate the thread capacity of the machine on what size of thread can be stuffed through the rated needle. Juki rates their machines on what the max size thread used as a top thread as well as same size of thread in the bobbin that can be used at max sewing thickness. 3. On the used Juki LS-341 inspect the machine carefully for worn out /rusted/ cracked internal parts like the main drive belt and wear on the guides / tensioners. There are a number of used machines that are imported from overseas factories so be careful. 4. Two layers of 8 oz is about a 1/4" and depending on the thread / needle combination and the toughness of the leather either machine should handle that. 5. If most of your work is for wallets/belts (flat type work) a flatbed machine maybe a better option rather then a cylinder arm machine unless you purchase a flatbed table top attachment for the cylinder arm machine. Since you presently handstitch items if you are looking for similar thread size thickness none of the Class 341 / 1341 or even the Class 441 will come close. 6. It is kind of difficult really to compare a used Juki LS-341 to a new clone machine. There are just to many variables related to condition/maintenance/etc. The Juki LS-341 hasn't been made in years and was replaced with the Juki LS-1341. If the machine is going to be used in a production environment 8 hours a day, 7 days a week then spend the extra money and buy a new Juki LS-1341. That will set you back about $5000USD. If it is more for a hobby use then most people will purchase a clone machine for about half that cost. kgg

Are you sure, me thinks you are an addict... just one more machine, just one more attachment. kgg

Just to add another twist to the conversion. If hardness of the burnish wheel is an important factor what would the drawback or pro's to using a metal burnishing wheel with machines grooves like the wooden ones??? Steel, Aluminum, Brass kgg

It is an attachment for plinking. Here is a link outlining it. ( https://www.ebay.ca/itm/351741810267 ) kgg

What size and type of thread are you using?? How thick of leather are you trying on sewing??? What size of needle are you using??? kgg

The .8mm thread size is roughly equal to V554 thread so there is really only the Juki TSC -441 and clones along with the one armed bandits that can come close to that thread size. As a comparison V138 thread is about .4mm. If thread size is a main factor the machines you highlighted will not work. kgg

I am not sure but that thread I think is just polyester not bonded so it may give you some problems related to like lint buildup. I would recommend: i) Purchase the 1lb spools of whatever thread you decide to purchase it will give you less spring back / coiling problems then the smaller 8 / 4 / 2 ounce sizes. ii) Purchasing two 1lb spools that way you can have one spool for winding bobbins as you sew and the other one for the top thread. That way you don't need to un-thread the machine just to wind a bobbin. Some like what I done with my Juki DNU-1541S. iii) Use bonded polyester or bonded nylon thread from a brand name manufacturer rather then the cheap Chinese stuff. kgg

When I clicked on the link you supplied it appears as the correct needle for a system 135x16 needle for a size 110 needle. The size 110 is for V69 (40 metric) thread. What size of needle did you order for what size of thread you are planning on using? Also what is the thickness of leather you are planning on sewing? kgg

Here is a screen shot of the spec for the Juki DNU-1541 series: My understanding is the system 135x8 is not designed for walking foot machines made for drop feed machines. It is a slightly shorter needle which may require you to adjust the needle bar as well the hook to the needle timing. Needle selection reference: The Thread Exchange by Juki model ( https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=needle-systems-juki ) The equivalent to a system 135 needle for leather, 135x16, is the DPx16 and 135x1 NRTW. The equivalent to a system 135 needle for fabric, 135x17, is the MR, 3355 MR, DPx1 MR, DPx17 Why not use the correct system needles recommended by the manufacturer, needles are cheap and save yourself the problems / headaches associated with other then recommended needles. kgg

No, do NOT use a system 134 needle for the Juki DNU -1541 and Juki DNU-1541S they are made and setup for a system 135 x 17 x (needle size) for fabric or 135 x 16 x (needle size) for leather, check you manual. Here is a good reference chart for needle size vs thread size. ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). I would also suggest: i) reducing the presser foot pressure as it appears the pressure foot is imprinting the leather needle plate hole into the leather. ii) increase the bobbin tension using the drop method of setting the bobbin tension. kgg

I will PM you.

Photo 1: i) Tells me it was used in a factory setting with little or no maintenance, the timing belt is cracked and is on it's last legs. The machine needs to be properly flushed out to remove any debris so it can be determined what else needs or potentially needs to be replaced. ii) missing presser foot lifting mechanism iii) missing base gasket and cylinder arm oil drain cotton cord Photo 2: i) Tells me someone replaced the main tension assembly and possibly the bobbin winder. ii) Top thread guide pin missing Photo 3: Shows a lot of discoloration / wear on the nose. Photo 4: i) Missing chrome cover plate on the front of the head that covers the lifting mechanism. ii) In the background of the fourth photo I did notice a second Juki LS-1341 on a dolly. My bad mind tells me this is a fresh off the boat from an overseas factory setting and shipped in. Did you ask where the machine came from? Personally I don't recommend buying an ex factory machine. EX factory machines are gotten rid of for a reason unless you are prepared to do any possible repairs yourself and the price is dirt cheap. I would suggest you keep looking buying a good used machine from a hobbyist or buy a new clone from a reputable dealer. Some others maybe better able to suggest a dealer close to you but you have not included your location. kgg

I do use V138 in my Juki DU-1181N and have it for thinner stuff as my Juki DNU-1541S hates thinner stuff. A thing to remember is how Juki rates their machines. Thread wise they rate their machines on what that model of machine can handle in both the needle and in the bobbin at the max rated sewing thickness NOT what the max size of thread can be stuffed through the max rated needle size it can handle in the needle bar. The Juki DU-1181N is rated for V92 thread and can handle a #23 needle which is rated for V138 thread. Some clones might be temped to rate the machine for V138. You are right a compound feed should be better. kgg

My take: In a flatbed the 3/8" thickness generally is under ideal conditions. If you are at or close I think you need to move to a cylinder arm machine with a flatbed attachment in the Class 341 / 1341 machines. You are probably going to find that using V46 thread could be a chore as the needles typically for system 135 x 16 for that size of thread are thin and will have a tendency to bend / break. I would suggest probably consider using V69 as a bottom end thread size in thin stuff. This style of servo motor is becoming popular but choose one with at least 9 internal coils. The more internal coils the better the starting speed and torque characteristics. With the brushless servo motors this feature is usually included. You can try it and decide if you like that feature. Some like it others not so much. In my opinion this is a poor twice removed cousin of a Juki DNU-1541S. I recently had a Consew 206RB-5 that was intended to replace my walking foot Juki DU-1181N. I kept the Juki DU-1181N and got rid of the Consew 206RB-5. The older ones were made in Japan and the new ones ?????? There a lot of decent flatbed Juki DNU-1541S clones available just like there are a lot of cylinder arm Juki LS-341 clones. If possible take a sample of your stuff and test drive some machines to see what best fits your needs, budget and choose a vendor with a good after sales reputation. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

I agree and it also depends on the ability / experience of the person doing the repair. kgg

If you are pleased with the Juki DDL 8300 for light items and your Consew 206. Are you planning on replacing the Consew 206 as the Juki DNU-1541S is a far superior machine then the Consew 206? I also should say my Juki DNU-1541S does not like thinner items and can have a tendency to suck those items down into the needle plate/ feed dog that is why I have a Juki DU-1181N for thinner items. kgg

My take without seeing any photo's: With a crack that severe there are three questions that need to be answered. 1) Does it move freely and sew? If not it there are more then likely internal damaged / misaligned parts. 2) What parts are damaged / misaligned / bend inside. Parts for Durkopp Adler in general can be expensive and depending on the age of the machine they maybe difficult to get. 3) Welding can be done on cast iron but and it is a big but can the machine be welded properly so nothing internally warps. If the crack could be repaired it does beg the question why hasn't the repair shop had it done? Personally I would consider this a parts machine so it's worth is next to nothing except to someone with the same or similar model. As for the repair shop well I would would be very wary and probably consider finding another repair shop. Since you are looking at cylinder arm machine I have two suggestions: 1) Set a realistic budget. My rule of thumb if I'm looking for a used machine for myself I am willing to pay 60% to 70 % of the cost a new machine if it is owned by a hobbyist. 2) Determine the class of machine that covers 90% of what you plan on sewing. As a quick reference: i) The Juki DNU-1541S and clones for Flatbed needs. ii) The Juki LS-1341 and clones for Cylinder Arm needs. These machines in general cover most needs. If it is going to be your main machine I would suggest a cylinder arm machine with a flatbed attachment and probably go with a new machine. Clone machines and there are many are a cost effective way. kgg

You need to let us know a couple of things. Which country / state / province you are located? The Juki DNU-1541S is a great machine but it may not be the best one for your sewing needs. What are you planning on sewing with what size of thread? kgg