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yep - Like I said, I have only done a couple of belts so I don't know how it will hold up. I just spoke with the Mgr of our local Tandy store & he said that's all he uses. Until I find out how it holds up I certainly would not recommend it to you guys.

Kate, I think I will take eveyones suggestion & put an "air brush" system together. One of the forum membors suggested a compressor from Northern Tool ($99.99 # 1202S152) & I hope this one is not loud. When you have time would you PM me as to what items I will need for a complete system. Maybe even some suggestion regarding the paint booth which I will try to make. I can vent it outside - will I need a small fan? Thanks so much for your help.

Boomstick the Neutrogena contains glycerin as well. I would not think it is oil based. I have nothing in the shop to take a picture of that I have used it on. I've only used it on a couple of belts & it seem to do a good job. Although it did feel alittle tacky. If you try it - get the "fragrance free" I'll play around with it & try to post some pic's.

Not to Hijack this Thread but you guys might find this one interesting. I ran into an old saddle maker a few weeks back and we started talking leather. For some reason the conversation got around to burnishing. I told him I used water, gum & bee wax depending on the project. He looked at me, kinda stupid and said " go get your self a bar of Neutrogena hand soap. It will do a better job that all of that other stuff. I had never heard to such a thing so I picked up a bar and damn if it doesn't work great. It's never too late to learn.

Does anyone know where I can buy "belt sleeves" (for a better word) for shipping belts? Sleeves may be the wrong word but they are the plastic that goes around the belt to protect it during shipping. I've looked everywhere & can't seem to find a supplier. Thanks for your help.

Thanks Brent, Which one would you get and what about a compressor. Will it spray Oil dyes as well. I'm about talked into it. I just want to have a big mess in the shop.

ebarber; Those look good. How did you finish them (with what) And did you dip or air brush them.

Lobo, Thanks, I got it. I don't know why you could not PM me but all is well.

Eric, I too have be shopping around for the best price & found the following: Roper Supplies 1-228-832-8889 Windy $34 I just go in a Glock 17 & a 1911 Gov. She did not have them in stock but Ring dropped ship to me. Good luck.

Thanks guys, You did read my post correctly. I mold my holsters (in a press), let it dry over night, then attempt to sew it. And that's where I'm running into problems. I've never thought about molding lightly prior to sewing. I'll give it a try.

Art, thanks for the reply. I don't quite understand what you're saying but I ran off a copy of your comments and will go down and take a look at the machine and see if I can figure it out. Thanks again,

For those of you that sew by machine: How do you sew a concealment holster. I come in about 3/16" from the edge & sew my line with no problem. But to sew close to the gun line (I'm going to call it) is almost impossible. I'm digging into the leather and in general, just messing up the project. I'm sewing on an Artisan 3000 & using the Left foot. If I back off from the gun line the gun does not have the retention I want. The cavity is just too large. Any suggestions?

Deb & Kate; Thanks for your help. I don't know if this is the way I want to go or not. I'm wondering if the mess & clean up would be worth it. But I'll check out the site.

I am thinking about buying an "air brush" for final coat. (Maybe even Dyeing, down the road - although I dip at present). I am concerned about mess & cleaning up. I know you can find them from $15 to whatever. But what would a good "air brush" cost & where would you suggest starting to look. More than that - would you even suggest going that route? I have bubbles in my final coat, brown dye is not good at all & all in all, not a very professional product. Just looking for a way to get better.

I have dyed a project with Fiebings Oil Dye (Light Brown) & put Bag Kote on as a final coat. It has turned my project into Dark-Dark Brown (9 or 10 shades darker than I started with). If I want the project to remain Light Brown what should I use as a final coat or will all of the final coat products darken. If I want Light Brown should I start out maybe using Saddle Tan? Thanks for your input.

Don't have a pattern - but that's sure a nice lookin shooter.

Slingblade; I noticed a couple of things in your post & I realize there is always several ways to skin a cat. This is "my opinion only" Soaking for 90 seconds in that hot water maybe a tad long. It certainly may effect the cement. I just make sure my project is wet (maybe 30 seconds or so - but then I use cold water). I Edge Coat ( I wonder if I doing this in the right sequence) then Gum & Burnish and then the final coat. Anyway, good luck

Denise, Got it - Thanks so much. Have a great Sunday.....

Johanna; I' sorry - I guess I'm lost. I went to "My Controls" & I find nothing about Options button at the top Right. Am I crazy. There is an Option button on the Left but nothing above Standard View. If it's this hard on Sunday morning what's Monday going to bring. Thanks in advance for your help.

Is there a way to change the responses to a Thread from a line version (where you have to click on them & then click back) to the actual response (where you can scroll down & see all the responses) ? Maybe I changed this without knowing it. Thanks for your help & I hope I have explained this so you can understand it.

Frank, Something else you might want to take a look at: When you got your Strap Cutter, did you take it apart to see what makes it tick. I did. And if it's not put back just right you will have a problem with straight straps. On the main body of the strap cutter (the handle part) right below the butterfly screw, on the left side there is a beveled portion. Make sure that beveled out portion is to the left. In other words the name "The Strap-Cutter, Stockton, CA will be on the top & the beveled out part will be directly under US Pat. I reassembled it wrong, one time, and the straps were not straight. Hope this makes sense.

Here, anyway you have to have a Business Lic if you sell anything within the state. Internet & out of state is a different situation, as far as I know. The Fed Tax ID # is to reqort qtr'y sales - they want their share within the state. No sales - 0 tax. Alot of Wholesalers will not sell you with a Business Lic (I have found that you do not have to have a Tax # to buy Wholesale). The Business Lic, here is $100 & takes about 5 minutes. The Tax #, I think is also a $100, but I could be wrong on that one. I opt'ed not to do the Tax # at my stage of the game. I'm not selling anything at this point. Different states may have different laws so check with you state/county for more accurate information. Good luck.

Luke, Thanks for your help. The reason I was asking is that my "edge ink" gets on the natural liner. I have not learned yet how to do the edges without this messing up the belt.

Luke; Do you put Super Sheen on the belt (front pc) as well? Or do you use something else?

Those of you that make belts for concealed carry (1 1/2" or 1 3/4" double lined) - do you dye the liner or leave it natural ? Any problems with the colors bleading off onto clothing, even with a sealer. Thanks for your comments.....