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Thanks Kate, That does help. I have one of the red pancake compressors from Home Depot (but it is sure loud) and I notice that when I unscrew the valve on the bottom, water comes out. So I'm guessing purchasing another would be a good idea. So the complete system would include: Air brush w/hose, compressor w/ hose, a moistutre filter (if not included) & a point booth. What size of paint container would you suggest. Will be using it for dyeing & final coat on small items (holsters, belts, ect)

JFYI: Just spoke with Dave at Artisan about a couple of my problems & he suggested that I get my machine back to Artisan so the tech's can get to the bottom of all the problems. He and Jerry has agreed to pick up 1/2 the shipping costs and will turn it around in one day. Since my shop caused the problems, I think that is one heck of a deal and great Customer Service.

It is NOT one of the new machines from Steve. Purchased it from a Dist. But I have talked to Steve about it and Jerry and the Dist as well. All seems to feel it should come back. I do think most of the problems is our fault. I think one of the guys in the shop was trying to tweak it a little. Now everything has gone hey wire. But will live through it..

It will only be $200 both ways ( but still a new machine) . No one in the area that I can find.

New Artisan 3000 going back to the factory. After several weeks of trying to make adjustments - I've given up. Tention, feed dog coming out, race assy with problems. But Jerry says all will be well. Just pay freight both ways.

Nice job.....

Suze, I think it's just one of those "guy things". If it says blue - it's blue. And if it says made primarily for wood - we won't try it on anything else. Thank goodness you gals keep us in line. Have a great afternoon.

Suze, Good suggestion, Thanks

Suze, Thanks for your help. I just want the real cheap stuff that will protect during shipping then I need to find some small plastic bags to put holsters in for shipping.

Rayban; good point

keltrey; There are several: Tandy's in your area. Zack White in NC, Weavers - the list could go on. I guess it would depend on how much you want. Since you are in Il maybe someone could offer you a closer suggestion.

ps0303, Just an idea that might work. Try a shoe repair shop in your area to see if they will sell you alittle. It wouldn't take much & I'm sure they would have something that you could use. Good luck.

Tony, I too start & finish at the buckle end. I don't want to start at the belt tip because I want to back-tac & I feel it would be noticeable. So again if I understand the majority you estimate your target about an inch out from the tip & adjust your stitch length, on your machine, longer or shorter to you hit your target.

Bree, So you saying you just adjust the stitch length , on the machine (longer or shorter) about an inch from the tip to get to the point of the turn. Am I reading you correctly ?

What do you guys/gals do in this situation. On double thickness belts you groove your stitch line & as you sew the belt, staying in the stitch lines (hopefully) as you come to the tip of the belt, if the needle does not meet your stitch line exactly as you turn (in other words, your stitches are too short or too long) you are going to be short or long of your stitch line on the turn. And this will happen more than not. How do you adjust so that you hit the groove on the turn?

Snakebyte, Put me on your list for a Group Buy.

Where are you located. Freight issues....

Most everything I have in the shop came from Weavers or Zack Whites. Tim is a great guy to work with. In fact he called me today & said his leather came in. It took awhile on this order but my 10 double shoulders should be in around Wed of next week. You can't go wrong with this outfit.

Nick, I would be more than happy to loan you mine (DVD) if you make sure I get it back. I have had my machine for 4 weeks now & still having some difficulty so I watch the DVD several times & learn alittle more each time. If interested shoot me a PM & I'll mail it to you.

Jim. Good suggestion. I will try that as well. Stay safe...

I don't know what to think. I just got off the phone with David (Artisan) with a small problem & he took care of it in fine style. I have had my machine right at 4 weeks now & have some adjustment problems. I called Artisan twice last week & spoke with Jerry both times. Helped me out & seem to be a great guy. Are you sure you have the right number? I

yep - Like I said, I have only done a couple of belts so I don't know how it will hold up. I just spoke with the Mgr of our local Tandy store & he said that's all he uses. Until I find out how it holds up I certainly would not recommend it to you guys.

Kate, I think I will take eveyones suggestion & put an "air brush" system together. One of the forum membors suggested a compressor from Northern Tool ($99.99 # 1202S152) & I hope this one is not loud. When you have time would you PM me as to what items I will need for a complete system. Maybe even some suggestion regarding the paint booth which I will try to make. I can vent it outside - will I need a small fan? Thanks so much for your help.

Boomstick the Neutrogena contains glycerin as well. I would not think it is oil based. I have nothing in the shop to take a picture of that I have used it on. I've only used it on a couple of belts & it seem to do a good job. Although it did feel alittle tacky. If you try it - get the "fragrance free" I'll play around with it & try to post some pic's.

Not to Hijack this Thread but you guys might find this one interesting. I ran into an old saddle maker a few weeks back and we started talking leather. For some reason the conversation got around to burnishing. I told him I used water, gum & bee wax depending on the project. He looked at me, kinda stupid and said " go get your self a bar of Neutrogena hand soap. It will do a better job that all of that other stuff. I had never heard to such a thing so I picked up a bar and damn if it doesn't work great. It's never too late to learn.