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I can't use a .50 cent sharpie to edge my belts - I've got too much money tied up in rollers, wheels, felt, Q tips, sponges, ink, edge dyes - I could go on and on. Why do we (I) have to make this so darn difficult. Thanks for your help guys. Maybe one of these days I'll have a big sale & get rid of all of this STUFF that I really didn't need in the first place.

Lobo / Shorts: Thanks for the reply. I do cement well & then punch out the slots after sewing the holster. I agree that sewing the slots is a waste but several do reinforce so I was wondering. You all have a great week end. Stay safe....

Do most of you find it necessary to reinforce the belt slots on a pancake holster. I tried to sew a couple of belt slots last night and found it to be a major undertaking. Needless to say, that holster now has a home in the "ugly box."

Bob, I guess sealing the liner early is the key. I'll incorporate this into my process & see how it works out. Again, thanks for all the info.

Thanks everyone - I'll try afew of your methods.

rdb, Then when do you burnish? Those that dye the liner & the belt has it alot easier.

What has everyone found to be the easiest/best way to put on "edge dye/ink" on the edge of a double layered belt? I have tried felt, Weavers roller, dauber & tapered sponge. But it seems I cannot keep it off my my undyed belt liner. I really don't want to dye my liners because I have heard stories of the dye coming off onto clothing during the hot summers even with a sealer applied. Does anyone have the magic solution?

Its funny you should ask that. My next door neighbor has just started making knives & has asked me to make him a sheath. Very simple pattern 4" blade & that damn knife has been setting on my work bench for almost a month & I have no idea of how to "get er done". I think it's the "plug" (I think it's called) and the placement of it thats got me confused. He buys them from some outfit for $13 and I opened my mouth one day and tried to save him a couple of bucks and there she sits. I've got to get on it. Maybe next week.

Those of you who make dual layer belts (belt with a liner), when are you cutting the tips? I use a Osborne English Point Strap punch & I cut the belt & liner in two seperate operations. At times when the tips don't match up correctly - the old belt sander is necessary. Should I be cutting both straps in one (1) operation? And if so, when? I've tried cutting both at the same time but find it difficult since they are not glued together yet. And invariably one strap will move & thus a screw up. Now we're talking a "custom order" ending up on a rack of seconds/IR's. Is there a better way?

Larry, U have PM...

PM sent.

Mike thanks for your help. TwinOaks, I was hoping that's what you would say. That center line your talking about appears on several of my holsters and it just didn't make sense to me. Have a great week end and again thanks guys.

Another holster question: Do you bevel both edges when making a holster? I know you bevel the slick side but do you also bevel the flesh side? The flesh side is alot harder to bevel and it does not burnish well. What am I doing wrong. Thanks for any and all help.

It looks great.....

hidepounder, Thanks for the fix....

What is the best way to remove Barge "all purpose cement" from raw leather? I keep getting it on belt liners. I guess I'm putting too much on - maybe just a small amount in the middle of the liner is all it takes prior to sewing. I have tried several things to remove it but the dye ect will not take the same way on that area.

Why can you not buy from Weaver? I have purchased several items (including the imbosser) from them (too many if the truth be known) and I do not have a Tax ID # but do have a bus. Lic. This is all that is required.

Well, I can get the Blue Guns for $34. Duncan is higher than that. Might be a nice business to get into. There is a member on this forum that claims to be a Dist for Blue Guns & he would reduce the price for anyone who is a forum member but I contacted him & nothing. And then another member was going to do a "group buy" & again nothing that I know of. If anyone needs my contact, just let me know.

Lobo, Great lookin stamp. Nice idea....

I called Ring to order several dummy guns & their prices were high. (I forgot what I was quoted). I told them I was a mfg with a Business Lic and was told to get a reduced price I would have to become a Dealer & the min order was $750. I found them else where for $34. Has anyone got a better deal? I need several more.

I'm looking for a "crossdraw" pattern for a S&W model 60 357, 2" barrel. I would like to have one with a sweat shield but it's not mandatory. Does anyone have on that they will share. I have made 2 attempts and both have come out ready for the trash can.

I was thinking of a very gradual taper. But I get your point. The dividers would work very well. Why didn't I think of that.

I am going to try to make a tapered belt. One that goes from an 1 1/2" to 1" in front. How do you manage to get the tapering exact on both sides? I'm sure it's not "rocket science" but I've tried to do it free hand and it doesn't look good so far.

Art, what is the reason you use an oversize liner? If I am making a 1 1/2" belt I cut the strap & cut another the same width for the liner. Just trying to understand all my options. I think I can see the light at the end of the tunnel when it comes to leather work. I just hope it's not a train.....

Grunt, You must then dye both the belt & liner....I dye only the belt and leave the liner natural. In the hot summer I have had black dye rub off on clothing. But I do have to come up with a better way. If there are any suggestions, out there, I would like to hear them.