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NoahL; No I have not tried them. I was really wanting someone closer. The freight would kill me to Atlanta. But thanks for your suggestion.

I've got a couple of suppliers for Horse Hide but I need better quality. Can anyone direct me to a Dist. that has good quality Horse. Thanks for your help.

Katsass; Great looking work. I need to learn how to do that. My compressor should be in tomorrow. I'll give it a try.

Let us know how you do. Any good advice FOR a newbie would be welcomed. Good luck.

I spoke with Fiebings this morning regarding the regular oil vs Pro oil. I buy the Pro 2 cases (8 gal) at a time. (for whats it worth I pay $48 gal). He says the Pro is much better than the regular and both can be Airbrushed.

Hey Art, I'll take a look right now. Thanks. Al

Art, thanks for your comments. I have an account with Weavers and have talked to Ohio Travel Bag and nothing. Someone has to have an 1 3/4" round and square buckle somewhere. I'll just keep digging. Your 1900 series looks pretty good. I may have to try it. Thanks again. Al

Can any one give me a supplier for Nickel & Brass (round & square) in 1 1/4" to 1 3/4" to use on gun belts. I order a hundred of each about every three months. Middle of the road hardware or alittle above. I've called all my suppliers (Zack White, Weaver, Springfield and a couple of others) and nothing. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Skyblast; I too am getting into Airbrushing, mostly on belts & holsters. I use Fiebings Pro Oil and was wondering if it's ok in an Airbrush. By the way, which compressor did you end up with and do you use a "paint booth". It should be interesting.

Shorts, Thanks for your reply. You are correct - the length of the belt is sometimes a pain. I measure the length to include the buckle and round bucklet are alittle longer than square. So we do miss this length from time to time. Have a good week.

Luke, Thanks for your input. I was hoping there was a way so that the 1st buckle tongue would not show.

Luke, I started to post a pic but realized the kids broke my camera over the Holidays. The project is just a two layered gunbelt (glued & then sewn). You cannot shorten it from the tip end so the buckle end is the only way I can go. I just thought there might be a better way to skin this cat.

I need to take 2" off of a dual layered gun belt. I know it should be taken off from the buckle end but is there a proper way to do it ? The only way I can see to do it is to cut 2" off of the inside strap being very careful not to cut the outer strap and remove the thread (which is a pain) and fold it over. Repunch the two chicago screw holes and repunch the belt tongue slot. Then cut off 2" from the very end. Fold the end over and you have it. But then you have the 1st belt tongue slot showing on the fold. Is there a better way ? Thanks for your help.

Luke, I don't think the leather being old would be the problem because I cut & dye about 20 belts out of one piece at a time. And many of those are dyed the same color without any problems. So it has to be something I'm doing wrong. Too long in the pot or not letting it dry properly. Anyway, thanks for your help & I'll just have to pay more attention to the dying process.

MadMaxx22; I leave the leather in the dye for about 10 seconds. Let hang overnight to dry or when even I get around to them. Then glue, punch, sand, sew, seal with Atom Wax or Resolene, edge, dye edges, burnish & seal edges. I have stopped putting a finish coat on. I've only had three belts come back with the greenish tent & all were Light Tan.

I did a Search and came up with nothing. So the question: Today I got a call from a Customer that had rec'd one of my Bull Hide Belts. It was Light Brown in color & he said it had a "greenish" tent on about 85% of the belt. A two part question: #1 What would cause a Green tent to appear on the belt. #2 How long should I leave a belt strap (6/7 oz) submerged in a pot of Feibings Pro Oil dye. Thanks in advance for your help.

Let the cement dry & it should just roll up with finger pressure.

Looks good to me. A nice functional belt. Keep it up.

Thanks for the suggestion regarding a new "Makers Mark" I spoke with Mark at Infinity Stamp & ordered a new stamp today. Not the cheapest guy around but you'll only have to buy it once. The old saying - you get what you pay for still applies.

Thanks Jeff, I have a delrin stamp but it has lasted less than a year. I called and spoke with Infinity Stamps (nice guy, by the way) but $250 is alittle more than I wanted to pay. I'll see if I can find something else.

abn, Thanks for your help. I will call them.

I need a new "makers mark" out of metal, 1" x 1/2". I purchased one out of Delrin, I think, but it lasted less than a year. Where is the best place to start looking. I did a search, here, but found nothing. Thanks for your help.

I think it was a pretty good find. I don't know what they are worth. I just need to learn afew things about the proper way to use it. Do you run the blanks thru before dyeing ? And what about sewing the belt after it has been glued. Do you just figure out where you want your stitch line & adjust the groover? Thanks for any help. This part of it is all new to me.

I just purchased a used (looks like new) Embossing Machine Dist by Tandy Leather at a garage sale, of all places. (it has a hand crank). I know how to make a belt but know nothing about Embossing. Can anyone give me any pointers, I want to try this machine out. I was thinking about Embossing the belt & then glueing & sewing the belt & liner together. Do you wet the leather & just run it through the Embosser or is there other things I need to know. Thanks in advance. By the way, I don't know what one of these machines cost but I picked this one up in a cardboard box with 4 design wheels, I'll call them, for $75. No papers or manual. So I'm kind of in the dark.

Madmax22, Thanks for the information. I do not seal my liner either but do seal the belt as well as the edges. Do you have any dealing with Resolene or Atom Wax and of the two, which would you recommend ?