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When sealing belts (belt & liner) so that dye will not transfer to clothing what is the preferred sealer (Resolene or Atom Wax) ? I was using alot of Atom Wax but noticed it lifted the "edge dye" off the belt edges. So now am wondering which direction to go. Any help would be appreciated.

I work out of my basement and in the winter it gets around, I would say 58 to 60 degrees during our cold nights with just a little humidity. It gets alittle heat from the upstairs portion of the house. Is it safe to store my Bull Hides & Horse Hides in that temp ? Or should I store them upstairs. I stock about 20 to 30 double shoulders each month. Most of the basement is underground so that helps and in the Summer stays nice and cool. Should I move them or are they OK. Thanks for any advice.....

I've been working on trying to get a better edge (slick / black) on my concealment belts & holsters for sometime now. I have no problem burnishing but, as I have posted in other areas, the Atom Wax lifts the Edge Ink off and once the Ink is off it's impossible to redye. Thus a do-over. My question: #1 Is Resolene a Sealer or a Top Coat? (I've never used it before). #2 Is there a Sealing product that I can put over the Edge Dye that will NOT lift it off. I'm going to try several ideas that I got off Leatherworker.net tomorrow(Bobby Parks - tutorial for one) but need to cement a "how to" by Tues. A major project coming up & will have no time, after that, to experiment. Thanks in advance. You Guys/Gals are great.

Noahl; Thanks so much for your help. I've been working all morning on a solution & thus far nothing works. I tried putting the dye on the edge with several things & I cannot get that perfect line. I guess what I'm really looking for is a product such as Atom Wax (sealer) that will not lift the edge dye. Once it's lifted you cannot go back & redye.

Weavers sells such a systems. Works well for burnishing.

terrahyd; I found the tutorial by Bobby Parks and I will get the ingredients and try it. Thanks so much. Noahl; Thanks for your input, as well. On my belts I do not dye the liner, only the front strap. And then burnish both to a nice black finish. So if I use my regular dye Fiebings Pro Oil, would it not absorb into the natural liner even though I have sealed it with Atom Wax ? I just finished taking a sample pc, set it and burnishing it and it does turn dark. But a brown & I need Black.' Anyother suggestions ?

Making concealment belts & holsters: Using Zack Whites manuel Edge Ink for the edges. After drying using Sealer (Atom Wax). When I apply the Atom Wax the Edge Dye is coming off. And after the sealer is applied it is impossible to apply the Edge Dye again. It will not take. All I want to do is have a nice burnished slick finish to the edge. What do I need to do for the Edge Dye? Burnishing is no problem. Any and all comments appreciated...

When using Deglazer #12 on Horse Hide or Bull Hide (making a belt), do you have to rub down or just apply it with a clean cloth (no elbow grease). And then how long should I let it dry before I submerge in Fiebings Pro Oil dye. Thanks so much for any help.

Ray, not that I know of. By the way, Steve is going to send you a CD on the Toro machine.

Okotoks, The Weaver strap cutter seems to do the job. We make belts & it does round off the edges very well. The only problem I can see is the blades get dull fast. You can send them to Weaver & for $15 they will resharpen. Hope this helps.

ryano, no I checked w/ Weavers & the blades came with the machine. No returns. I just purchased the other set.

Don't know where to post this so I'm dropping it here. Maybe I can get some feedback. Has anyone used Quicken to maintain their records, expenses, income, ect. Is there another solfware program any better or easier ? I'm finding that I just have to get better organized this year. Thanks for any help.

I have somewhat of a dilemma about Horse Hide: I am told that ALL the slaughter houses in the US have been closed and now all Horse Hide comes from overseas. Then the Hides sent back to the US, for the most part, to be tanned. I realize that the Hides come from older livestock & thus pron to a great many imperfections. #1 is this true ? I have purchased Horse Hides from 2 different Leather Dist & the Hides look pretty good until they are dyed. Then the scratches, marks, imperfections come out (especially with light colors). It's to the point where I am thinking of not offering Horse products, in the future. Have I got my facts straight or am I being misled ?

For Sale a new set of 4 Weaver blades for the "EZ Edge" Strap Edger. These are #1's (I ordered the wrong ones when I got the machine) and have since replaced them with #2's. I paid $120 + shipping and I'm asking $90 including shipping. This little machine makes it alot easier to edge straps, belts, ect. If there is any interest please email me at: achildress3@bellsouth.net

Ray, I don't know the date you posted the request for an Artisan 3000 Video but I've got one I would be more than happy to send you. Just email me if you still want it. (achildress3@bellsouth.net) Al

Rawhide; Thanks. I have been burnishing using just water & it works out well. I'm just trying to get a better edge. So if I put the Gum on with a dauber, let set for a short period, then burnish, I'll be OK.

When using Gum Tragacanth on belt edges to burnish - do you let the Gum Tag dry before burnishing it or do you burnish while wet.

Are Horse Hides bred for their Hides or ????. Bull Hides are from bulls that perform a duty but what about Horse Hides???

Geoff, I think it would depend on what type of belt you want to make. A dress belt, a work belt or maybe a gun belt. Each of these would require, for the most part, a different weight liner. We do "gun belts" & our website on construction may help you. If it does not, I would be more than happy to help in any way I can. Good luck,

When you sell an item via the internet outside your state, do you charge Sales Tax & report it to your home state? I know that you need to pay Sales Tax (file a monthly report) if sold within your own State.

A customer of mine just rec'd their "gun belt". A 1 1/2" Bull Hide dipped in Fiebings Prof Oil Dye (Saddle Tan). I generally let the belt stay in the pot about 10 seconds. The belt is sealed w/ Atom Wax & then a finish coat of Leather Sheen. My customer says there is a greenish tint about the size of a "silver dollar" toward the buckle end. #1 What would cause this? #2 How can I tell him to treat it? Thanks in advance for any comments.

I've never done alot with Horse Hide belts (used for concealed carry) but now I am getting alot of requests (from my new website) wanting Horse Hide belts. And I'm having a major problem with imperfections in the leather. It's not taking the dye evenly with streaks in the after dyed product. I talked to one Mfg who does Horse Hide belts & he says they put a Bull Hide strap (dyed), in front & the Horse Hide strap as the liner, on the inside. No dyeing just a sealer & final coat. This makes since to me because the Horse Hide would be next to you rather than on the outside where it cannot be of any benefit. And if you didn't have to dye the Horse, no problems. So am I putting the Horse Hide in the wrong place?

Art, I agree with you. Thanks for your help. Al

Art, thanks for your suggestions. I found another butt & have cut another 1 1/4" strap to start all over. I will dye the 1st belt BLACK & offer it at a reduced price. One other question: I too use the Pro Dye, as you do. How long do you let it dry. I have been letting it dry overnight but an old saddle maker told me to put a fan on it & it would dry in about an hour. Any thoughts. Al