ABC3

Now that's a belt. You would almost have to put a stiffener in it to get the job done. Nice work, by the way.

Go to Home Depot and buy a straight edge (about $10) then put you shoulder on a work bench (we use a couple of large work tables) and clamp the straight edge to the bench. Straight line and you can cut it with a box cutter.

We found about 15 double shoulders of Bull Hide on the bottom of the stack where we keep our leather. After tracing it back we figure these are atleast 9 - 10 months old. The room, in our shop, where we store our leather has a little humidity but not much. We go through our leather supply about every 3 months but these 15 shoulders was just over looked. Anyway, when I cut them and dyed them to made dual layered gun belts I noticed they came out splotchy. I didn't notice anything unusual about the leather until I dyed it. In a test, I put some Atom Wax on a couple of belts and the splotchy look disappeared. On those belts, it has not come back. Could this be mold or mildew ? And after I seal the belts (which I have not done yet) will this come through ? Is there something we can do to this leather to eliminate the problem ? I certainly don't want to send these to our customers and have this splotchy look reappear. Any suggestions ?

We've got a couple of orders, in the shop, for 74" belts. That means we have to cut them about 84". It's hard to find a double shoulder that big. But we're looking.

We buy all of our Hides from them without any problem. Call Eric

JS22, I don't want to give you the wrong info. here but I order from Weavers and "do not" have a retail lic. I do, however, have a business Lic. Nor is there a min that I am aware of. The shipping has gone up a lot but other than that nothing has changed that I am aware of. If I am wrong, someone please chime in and correct me. The buckle you speak of is the Pauls buckle and I have several that I will give you.

TwinOaks, Thanks so much for the informtion. I really don't want a drastic taper but one that is about an inch long. (a gradual taper, if you will). I left that part out and to solve the problem is would be useful information. I just tried it again and messed up another strap. To cut the 1 1/4" tip and buckle end, what would you use. I tried a round knife and it didn't turn out so well.

I am about to make a 1 1/2" dual layered belt and I would like it to be tapered to 1 1/4" on the buckle end and the tip end. I am having trouble with the curve from 1 1/2 to 1 1/4. Is there a correct way to make this curve, is it just a free hand operation (if so, I'm in trouble) or should I use a templet ? What cutting tool is best for this step ? The measurements, the buckle holes, tip, ect are all under control - It's just the curve from 1 1/2" to 1 1/4" that's giving me a problem. I can't get them to match up and look the same. Any suggestions would be welcome.

Fiebings sent me a small bottle of Dura Edge before it was even on the market, to try. I agree with the other posters - I didn't like it. It was nothing more than a hard shell. The biggest problem was, if you ever got it on the back of a lined belt even after it had be sealed, it was very difficult to get off. Edge Kote is not any better, IMO. We now just use Edge Ink for the edges and wax and burnish.

Niki, How long are you dipping your work ? We have found if we leave our work too long (especially light browns, saddle tans, ect) it will take too much dye and turn green. So maybe you are just putting too much dye on your project. Just a thought......

I've set up booths at Glock Matches and the like but learned, real quick, that the only way to sell "custom" belts is to just take orders and make them when you get back to the shop. Take several samples of your work, let them pay you there or send them an invoice along with the belt.. But I felt it really didn't pay to set there all day and sometimes two days.

Not to highjack this thread but I think it might apply. We have been using Fiebings burnishing wax - black (it comes in a 1# block) & rubbing it on the edges after we apply the edge dye, then burnish. Then we apply a sealer, Resolene and let dry. We've been doing this for several years without any problems. We have started to get some complaints that the edges (black) is transfering to clothing. My question and I hope it helps others, is: Will the Resolene seal the edges after using the Fiebings burnishing wax ?

Jet4; I get them from IPS Packaging out of SC. But they are shipped from their Atlanta Warehouse. 864/862-1500. Item #002020 and I use 3"X003 mil. Hope this helps. Al

We have expanded our operation and am looking for a source that has the capability of selling direct or thru their website. We handcraft dual layered gun belts in various sizes, width and colors. Everything in our shop is made one at a time here in the US. We have the capacity of producing 50+ custom belts per month on a wholesale basis. We have been in business for years and can provide testimonials. If interested contact us for details. www.agcustomgunleather.com

No I don't have a pic, this morning but it's a clear flat roll of light weight plastic and when you cut the disired length off it open up into a tube. We joke around the shop and call them condoms. Does that help ?

We don't do concealment holsters anymore, just don't have the time but each belt that leaves the shop is housed in a plastic sleeve. We buy them in large rolls and cut as needed.

Jim, Thanks for the reply but what do you do with the dropped stitch on the top and bottom ? You can't leave them, you would have 2 threads on the back and 2 on the front on the hole that was missed.

Johnggrg; If you still need "keepers" give me a call and I'll make whatever you need (no charge). Al (678/520-2695)

We use Nylon about an inch wide. Glue it in and then sew the edges of the belt. The very same thing your seat belts are in your car only not as wide.

What is the best way to repair a "dropped stitch" from an electric sewing maching. I know the problem with the machine needs to be fixed but is there a way to fix the "stitch" ? Thanks in advance.

We get all of our Horse Hide from Horween Leather in Chicago (773/772-2026. Nice quality and length.

We make alot of belts but I think we're doing something wrong. There is no way we can make a handcrafted belt in 30 minutes or even an hour. Maybe I need to rethink my process....

Craig, You can go to Weavers or Zack White. Google for their websites.

A Business License will do. You really need one anyway if you do any volume. And the savings you can enjoy is well worth the License Fee.

We buy all of our Horse Hide from Horweens and have gotten some very good hides with some nice length to them. There's some pretty big boys out there who want HH belts. I think they have a min but for first time buyers will wave it.