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OldRedMule

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Everything posted by OldRedMule

  1. That gray is all I have seen and I would be afraid it would bleed if you tried to dye it, even with a sealer. I am pretty sure I have seen some cutesy ones done up with suede, (pink and turquoise), not intended for any real work of course. I recently did a wood post wrapped in latigo. I like it. I have used the mule too, but I don't rope. Not sure if rough or smooth is best. Mule is rough when new and latigo and rubber are smooth. I think the squeeze of the rope is as important as the slip so I am sure it comes down to personal preference. Cowboys may want the rope to grab for some situations and slip in others so job may have something to do with it too.
  2. Thank you Samalan, I will also look to see if they are in Sheridan. It would be great to pick out what I need in person. Thanks again!
  3. Hi all, I have lung issues and am concerned about working with chrome tanned leather. I know that it can be made so that it is safe to use but I don’t know who offers it for sale that way. I imagine US manufacturing would be the best way to go but how do you know? I know US manufactures would be the safest for the environment too.I don’t even know if there is any chrome tan made in the USA. I am interested in mostly pull up types and some upholstery types. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to purchase and how to identify when buying on line. I don’t typically see where it is made in the add to cart page. I plan on being at the 2022 Sheridan show and will be looking. Thanks in advance, and if this has already been talked about please direct me.
  4. Fiona, will they cut through heavy veg tan? Or just the thin soft stuff?
  5. Thanks everyone for your input. You all have given me some ideas. I hope I get some more ideas from ya all. I did put in about a 3 foot closet rod where I hange all my larger patterns. They have a hanger type hook on the top with a cord that dangles down through a hole in the pattern with a little metal thing at the bottom. If it is a group of pattern pieces for one item they all go on one hook to keep them together. Still have a lot of room on the rod. I rather like it. Then for smaller pattern pieces they go in a plastic box.
  6. I am doing a few saddles, tack, tack and saddle repair and building purses and some smaller items. I try to keep them all moving forward with all the various steps and what next. I have a pretty roomy shop with a large work/cutting table. A granite top table, a rolling whatever table and an oil/dye table. I have a tool bench. All my tables are always full of something or several somethings until I clean up which is usually not daily. I want to keep all the things together so I don’t double book hardware for instance. The saddles are out in the open and have stands to sit on so they are not really the problem. Do any of you have any tricks you use to keep your projects together and organized?
  7. Thank you, I will check that fringe maker out. Also, I would be ok with the faux leather scalloped trim if you have info on where to purchase.
  8. Hi everyone, I am looking for a supplier for scalloped trim for chaps and purses. With and without dots. Also, leather fringe would be good too. Not Swede, I have that. Any supplies out there for these? I am in Arizona.
  9. Ed, thank you for your feedback. The pictures are great and I really like that little jig thing in the cantle! I will probably go with a custom tree. Or maybe one custom and one from a more production type company using the Lane kit and see how they compare. I will probably do so soon in order to be able to build after hunting season. Thanks again. And thank you too John (both posts!) Ollie
  10. Ok, I understand now. Notches, removing material in the form of a notch. Probably a V shape. Got it. Makes sense too! Plus thinner too to reduce the bulk. I can do that! I do that when I sew fabric, why didn’t I know that would work? And leather does not unravel…. Thanks.
  11. OldRedMule

    Trees

    All of you seasoned saddle makers are so wonderful and helpful and so appreciated. I want to share that I received my Dennis Lane fitting kit and am so excited to use it. Now I just need to know about tree makers that will use it. Denise Nikkles sent me a couple, Dusty Smith and Ben Swanke, and they look really amazing and impressive - and a bit expensive. Of course I want the best I can afford as everyone else here does too. I am sure I am not the only one wondering. I would like to widen my options by just gathering info. Anyone,, please? Maybe some good, better, best comments too, please? I know this has been covered some, but maybe there are some new names out there and in particular who will work with this Dennis Lane system. Thanks in advance!
  12. EdOgers, I saw the screw placement on another thread. Thank you for all of your input and support to all of us. All of you are so wonderful. I also want to share that I received my Dennis Lane fitting kit and am so excited to use it. Now I just need to know about tree makers that will use it. Denise Nikkles sent me a couple, Dusty Smith and Ben Swanke, but I would like to widen my options by just gathering info. anyone? Maybe I should start or find a thread about this already out there? I will do that too.
  13. Thank you for the great explanation Ed. I will pay attention to this when I get to those parts. I would like to understand if that is 2 screws on each side or just one on each side. I am thinking you are saying to put the screw on the edge of each skirt past the edge of the bar and at the inside edges of the cantle arch in a way that won’t interfere with the spine? I am not sure if you use them ever, but I did put some bar risers in this saddle on the top side of the seat bars, as the animal has a few knots on its spine and I felt needed the extra height. Randy that is cool, I hope I get to 11. I am really liking this, if my hands will only hold up. Saddle is on hold until fall. Working on other projects for the summer. Thanks guys!
  14. Thank you, I am not sure what you mean by notching it? Can you elaborate just a little? Still have it wet on the stand, working on it now.....
  15. Hi, I looked and couldn't find and if this is redundant I am sorry. A link would be fine or anyone wanting to offer help that would be great. I am working on a Will James, my second saddle, and cutting the side seam. I am trying to keep the top point slightly below the top crest of the swell. But there is so much poking up I am afraid it will not be able to get it to lay nice if I leave too much leather up there. Is there a trick? Cut wider at the top? Give up and go higher? Help please? Thanks in advance. Ollie
  16. I love that, thank you. The one I posted is back in use so of course it did not get done. But I will let the customer know we could do that. I will keep it in mind, thanks again!
  17. I do have a question for some of the experienced people on this thread, even though it is really old. I wonder how many saddles Randy has done by now. When you say don't lace the skirts, do you mean not at all or just half way or what. I am on my second saddle and have not done that part yet. I was not going to lace it all the way but I had planned on about 2/3 or 1/2 of the way so it could flex. Same on the jocky, or maybe sew in a really short center piece. I do have the skirts scooped in a bit at the back like Randy did in his. I might even post a few pictures in a few days.
  18. Can anyone tell me what to use up in there? I used some Vaseline on my last saddle but it didn't seem to last too long. I am afraid to use too much I don't want it to drip down and ruin everything else. It is hot here in Arizona and I am afraid no mater what I use it will melt away in nothing flat or drip down and ruin/darken the other leathers in the area. Suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you everyone, I love this site.
  19. Yes, PurpleSage, I got it done and I have since started on another one. Darn cowboys, this one I find the hardest blackest stuff over the hardware. The rigging on an inskirt rigging where the leg would have rode over it. I did what you said and used a scraper to as delicately as possible scrap the waxy dirt off he top of it. After softening in with cleaner. This time I actually used Lexol and it worked pretty good. I used warm water and a pinch of dawn on the rest of it. The Lexol, a tiny bit sprayed on a wet sponge, dampening the nasty gunk over the hardware several times while I worked on the rest of it. Then went back and scraped off the gunk. I used a silicone scraper. A tiny bit of damage was done to the leather but I think the dirt did more than I did. Then I rubbed in a couple thin of coats of Ray Holes cream. Turned out pretty nice. Thank you for your feed back.
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