Rahere

But narry an English Tip stamp in sight...sigh. They've become affordable, at last.

Sebring in Florida, working with gator, use chrome tanning. Although they have more prep steps to remove calcium deposits in the hide, at the end of the day it's a standard tan, so why don't you see veg tan? The answer has to be the thickness. Bird and lizards are much the same, fairly light bones, designed for strength, skins protected by scales, which are lost in the tanning. The finished product is thin, texture but no substance, do they're pretty much treated like a veneer in woodworking: surface finish only.

Part of the issue may be the knife blade. Ivan's catalogue got me thinking, yes, their choice of blades is good, but is it excellent? We invariably start with the duh option, a 1cm slanted centre-ground blade, but is it actually the bees-knees? The options are: Material - metal or ceramic Angle - flat , slope or v-point Width Tip - single or multi. However, I realised something was missing. As a rifleman, I'm very aware of how linked and precise our pointing finger is - to the point where I swapped my trigger finger to the middle finger, far better at squeezing. And this is what the swivel knife works off, but do we really need the v-profile or would grinding one side away to give a vertical face and a slope \| be better? In which case, we'd either need one with a left-handed angle and one with a right-handed one, or start from a V-point. Any ideas on this?

This is fairly specific, so perhaps rather than going for a ready-made tool, you could design one in a 3-D program and have it printed for you? Thingiverse and Shapeways come to mind, using ABS plastic (the sort of thing Lego's made of). The original was probably wet-pressed into a hand-carved mold.

Leave the ink stain, the bag's lived and you won't get rid of all the scuffs so it's going to be lived-in from the start. The most you'll likely manage is make it larger.

Your swivel knife is like most knives, comes to you unsharpened. Guess what they don't tell you? It can also be a question of going over it, and going over it, and going over it. At the same time, I suspect there are a few like me who did worse.

It may be you need to examine the quality of your tool. Taking two cuts on anything under 5mm puts that in question, but that's rather a distraction. You can feel a clean cut. I can also feel way beyond there, I use an LDPE undersurface, I'm not into shredding that. A tool suitable for African Blackwood has to be far more finely tuned than one cutting lumber. Leather's closer to the latter. What I'm looking at isn't simply the right tool for the right job, but the right tool set right.

This is slightly better than a Google search. I'm in contact with the MD of the Company.

The curved awls are also shoemaking, some welting techniques use side-sewing to reduce exposure of the underside of the sole to damp. Every hole wicks water which rots the thread.

It's a derivative of an "apostle" belt, common in 17th century musketeers. 13 at the last supper. To be precise, the musketeers bandoleer carrier the charges in separate pots hung from a belt, but later they were brought together https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/505106914427939666/

It's one good thing from this virus: with nursing staff returning to the ranks, there were no uniforms for them, so 50 000 sewers up-skilled to make them. The wholesale stores were stripped, but the ability to dress ourselves is back.

One thought on the stitching. Where you have a single "mouth" like that, there's slighlty more strain on the top ends of the stitching, so start a short distance down and sew up to the corner, before reversing, oversewing those few stitches and then continuing normally. As far as the V-cutter's concerned, if it's not cutting evenly, it needs sharpening.

Per the museum curators, they found the entire harness, not just the metal. Whoever tanned that must have done a proper job!

Someone once described it as pareto: beyond a certain point, leather doesn't care. Obviously, you've got to get to that point, or you might as well tear it with your teeth. But beyond, I've never yet found a use for human hair shavings, other than as poison.

With the exception of the strap, those are static folds, so go for it. In my day, it was a scientific calculator! Slow and steady is the secret, and keep the machine in a plastic pouch to keep all water out! What you use to cut with is almost immaterial at this point, I'd just go for light shaves, though.

That is why I cited the company, a major and very serious transport equipment supplier. Nobody expects us to become instant experts, but it might be worth checking with the University, for example. I suspect you're confusing UV frequencies, I'm specifically talking about UV-C. Another thing I'd check on is medical contra-indications.l Another consideration is that viruses only reproduce in vivo, although they can survive outside for a while. The survivability on different materials varies, but is not cited to be more than 3 days, to the best of my knowledge, and less in daylight. Therefore I suggest airing the fabric materials .

It depends whether these are static folds or active ones. By that, I mean we often put a fold in and glue it down, or fix it in some way: That's going nowhere, it's static. However, talking of a folder, I suspect you're talking a cover or something, which'll be forever folded open and closed, active. To deal with the first, you'll likely thin out the inside of the crease line to a width of roughly twice the thickness of the leather using a plough, or skiver, so when you fold the flesh sides together, you have a good surface over that part of the join: there's a sticky on here for the raw ends, although many would simply cut them as two parths and treat all the sides, si it looks consistent. The second deals with an issue called, in sewing, "turn of the cloth", where you have to take the thickness of the leather into account. It you thin it down too much, the weight of the surfaces could tear them away, but at the same time you're dealing with a fairly thick piece, it sounds like. I'd suggest thinning the fold down still, maybe to 2-3mm, and getting some neats foot oil into it from the inside, although it could likely discolour the surface. Another approach would be to use a different, softer leather completely for the hinge, sewn both sides, so your thick tooling surfaces are like the end boards of a hardback book, and the contrast like the spine. Skive the edge of it down to a millimeter (I'd go less, but it's good exercise in presision cutting - the idea of a skife (OK, I'm old school) Is to shave razor thins away, not huge chunks, which make even slopes hard. Then glue, clamp and, when dry, sew,. Of course, there's nothing stopping you gluing or taping your cardboard to thinkness! Double-sided carpet tape's cheap. In a way, what gives is we tend to think automatically in 3 dimensions, from experience.

I'm applying KISS because he's a beginner, bruv. Other useful techniques are to raid the haberdashery, for some of their special markers which fade in the light or wash out (test them on a scrap corner first), or to use a scratcher awl to mark out. L20'll be needing that to lay his tooling out anyway, before going in with the knife and punches, so he might as well start there!

Draft it in cardboard and use that as a template. Never cut cased leather, because it stretches and your nice straight lines will turn out to be indented curves.

Check around on the Dremel site for the clamp too! As far as the burnishers are concerned, I got mine from Proops in the 1980s, when they were a shop on London's Tottenham Court Road. They're on Etsy these days, still an aladin's cave.

One interesting comment worth exploring is the use of alcohol gel as a lubricant.

The Crimson Crusader 2 resources for shoemaking: Sveta Kletina and ICanMakeShoes on Youtube, As far as that edging's concerned, it could be done by whipping a core, extremely laboriously, but is more likely a heat-welded plastic finish. I'm old school, rubber cement these days isn't what it was. A lot of work's gone into rubber technology and the cement hasn't kept up, except for one: Renia's Colle de Cologne's tackling things rubberworkers were in despair over, but it's expensive, use it with thinners.

You all have circular and half-round punches, but cutting corners is always a bit of a pain. You can always use a half-round on insides, cutting into the waste, but being a right-tool-for -the-job man, I've looked for quarter-circle punches for some time. They'd work great here. As far as a router's concerned, I've always found the big table routers used for woodworking overkill. However, just we use dremels for all kind of detail, the same exists here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-Attachment-Precision-Drilling-Trimming/dp/B0009EQ5QA https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-231-Shaper-Router-Table/dp/B0000302Y9

Also - anathema - consider bending your work over, removing the edge from proximity to the cut.

Blimey! Talk about a mess tooling...never close a split ring that way, always use two pliers, to close any gap. You know you've got it when the butt end edges click as they pass each other. But then again, he's putting snaps in as he goes. If he thinned his crease lines...ah well.